been messing with xoliul's shader. I really dig it but wish there was presets:)
Not even sure if I am using it right TBH
used the shader fx hair shader but when I turn on hardware shading with shadows, I lose the
transparent shadows. As ever transparency sorting is borked in max also:(
Moof, those sketches are completely awesome. Neox, already looking a lot better, cant wait to see the polish you put on it. Pior, that is so goddamn cool, i want to see the sketch without the model over it though.
Neox>
typically japanese?
Er, what I mean is what is stereotypically considered asian/japanese looking. Strong lack of epicanthic folds, dark eyes, flatish face, dark hair etc. I mean not all japanese people looking that way obviously, but as a template I guess it's stereotypical.
Ruz> sweet ! You should probably manually triangulate some of that dude's face a bit, some of the silhouette is getting eaten
not very familiar with texturing metal, so could really use any advice/feedback from peeps with a lot of experience with them
marmoset:
xoliul:
I cant seem to get xoliul's post_bloom or post_colour correction working. tried disabling everything he recommends in the FAQ. using max 2010 64 bit. any ideas :poly141:?
isn't the story on these that the took less time to manufacture then they did to reload?
There are some accuracy issues. The real liberator has soft features but not quite this soft.
well the cheeky soft post processing probably doesn't help that, but I hear you. I was constantly trying to get the right read on the stamped metal. With the really old guns it can be tough--my most detailed reference pictures are of a surviving Liberator and it's seen quite a bit more wear than a new gun would, softer edges. I made the decisions there, with the setting of my game, that it was intended to be an old gun, as opposed to new.
catstyle: looking really nice so far. My suggestion for learning to texture metal for guns is to undertstand that there are different chemical finishes used to treat the metal that end with a wide range of looks. For instance most American weapons for WWII were parkerized, which gives a matte gray finish. Your revolver would be treated with a process called "bluing," which is the most old school (and most desirable for many collectors).
Bluing is interesting because over time a well kept gun develops a patina; the colors change subtly and grow. Even in a newly blued gun, you should see a lot of deep blue/purple kind of colors just hinted in the surface, especially under reflection. That's on a new gun, if you're texturing a gun that's meant to look a hundred years old or whatever then the patina should be quite a bit more pronounced.
Check out the frame of this revolver just behind the cylinder and the cylinder. That's the kind of deep blue color I'm talking about. But it's rarely entirely consistent throughout the entire frame of the gun.
why don't you just try to project the high to a flat plane? each brick gets its own smoothing group? that would get costly pretty quick.
It's going to be a very small environment, lots of sprawling corridors, so I figured I might as well get the most out of it, polygon-wise. It looks a little flat and boring up close when it's just a 2d plane, and as the environment is going to be very cramped, the player will often be close to the model.
re: Sculptris discussion - it is pretty sweet. I have been recording myself working on a character in it... I'm not the best artist at the moment, but it's fun. Here's part one, and some links to the other parts I've recorded so far.
Awesome, I love how you can just pull and pull and pull and it'll create geometry on the fly, it's something I really miss on ZBrush. I reckon it must be difficult (if not impossible) to make this work on any mesh, or even a default quadrified basemesh, but at least make it an option, to use an all tri mesh but have this enabled.
You can import quads, tris, or quads+tris, and it'll even export back to quads if you don't add any tesselation. There's a global subdivide and global decimate, which can also be isolated to visible geometry (hiding things you don't want to decimate). There's also a reduce brush which can be used to clean up areas that are too dense.
One cool thing you can do is decimate and load up an old Mud or Z sculpt, and continue it in Sculptris. It's the same principle as decimating a sculpt before baking or retopo - but you're working with efficient triangulation the whole while. The public release should be coming soon though, so you guys can give it a try. It doesn't quite handle 20mil triangles at the moment, but the idea is that you don't need that many, and tiny surface details can be applied in bumpmap form.
Yeah, the current beta is incredibly superior to alpha3. DrPetter is really hoping he can get a new public release out within the night. I'm probably spamming this thread a bit prematurely in that respectI'm sure a thread will get created in GD once the new release is up. Like PolyHertz said, probably shouldn't even bother with a3 for now...
wow Gauss those weapons are so bizarre! Makes me wonder how practical they are. Probably more of a novelty and collectors items now than anything
PogoP: that hi poly wall looks great, and I agree that it would be best if you just baked that down to a flat plane with the ledge popping out for best results. Let the normal map and ao take care of the rest
Racer: fine hi poly wing work/interpretation
Catstyle: that weapon looks good. As for making it look better in marmo I'd say really reduce the blue on your spec(should be desaturated completely imo), up the gloss and tone down any contrast you have for your metal in your spec. That will give it a nice smooth, shiny metal look. This is all entirely up to how you want your metal to look, but for a standard metal those are my recommendations
and here Ive updated the textures and material properties, and spent the afternoon working with it. so freakin tired now...
EricV> That AK is starting too look really sweet. Are you using some form of AO? Pre-baked? For example the shadows at the strap fastening on the stock, has a nice soft appearance.
been messing with xoliul's shader. I really dig it but wish there was presets:)
Not even sure if I am using it right TBH
used the shader fx hair shader but when I turn on hardware shading with shadows, I lose the
transparent shadows. As ever transparency sorting is borked in max also:(
cheers Hawken. you mean revolver ocelot?. No, but I might change it now as he is a pretty cool character
catstyle - looks awesome. re the post stuff I am having similar problems. if you find a fix let me know
rollin- coming along nice, is that a game you are making?
EricV - very nice indeed
thanks duders. Yeah Kodde, there is def some AO applied to my maps. Its nothing fancy, just a combination of a regular AO generated from the lo poly, blended with with the AO generated from my exploded hi poly mesh
This demo was my first run for a video game I did for school. Just some basic walk-run motions, sprite animations, firing, and sound effects. All done in a program called Dark Basic Pro. I am accredited the textures, models, and implementation. Link here:
Why must I be so sloppy on personal work?.. Normals might look less like crap if I had CrazyBump... used nvidia filter a lot. Diffuse needs work, esp. where the spikes are embedded. Will retouch once I've got more of the character in a working state.
edit: btw, all highpoly work done in sculptriseven though my art is crappy/rushed, sculptris models are perfectly usable for game art; bumpmap painting can be combined with normals+AO using the usual methods, looks fine - just don't be retarded and rush shit like I do
Pull the top of her head down so her eyes are in the middle of her head and pull her ears and the back of her jaw forward a little. You may also want to tone down her cheeks.
Fuse: She's very jowly. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you're going for. Her cranium seems a bit big though
Vrav> there's nothing really wrong with what you've done, but you would want to polish how those spines come out of the wood, so it fits together more. Maybe a card with a little wood button decal thingy.
Just started today. This is a bit divergent for me. I'll get back to those concepts later.
Replies
been messing with xoliul's shader. I really dig it but wish there was presets:)
Not even sure if I am using it right TBH
used the shader fx hair shader but when I turn on hardware shading with shadows, I lose the
transparent shadows. As ever transparency sorting is borked in max also:(
Quick Blender sketch ...an hour or two. Dunno if I'll take it further.
Neox>
typically japanese?
Er, what I mean is what is stereotypically considered asian/japanese looking. Strong lack of epicanthic folds, dark eyes, flatish face, dark hair etc. I mean not all japanese people looking that way obviously, but as a template I guess it's stereotypical.
Ruz> sweet ! You should probably manually triangulate some of that dude's face a bit, some of the silhouette is getting eaten
that shit is rad
wip texturing on the guns (1024 texture size)
not very familiar with texturing metal, so could really use any advice/feedback from peeps with a lot of experience with them
marmoset:
xoliul:
I cant seem to get xoliul's post_bloom or post_colour correction working. tried disabling everything he recommends in the FAQ. using max 2010 64 bit. any ideas :poly141:?
well the cheeky soft post processing probably doesn't help that, but I hear you. I was constantly trying to get the right read on the stamped metal. With the really old guns it can be tough--my most detailed reference pictures are of a surviving Liberator and it's seen quite a bit more wear than a new gun would, softer edges. I made the decisions there, with the setting of my game, that it was intended to be an old gun, as opposed to new.
catstyle: looking really nice so far. My suggestion for learning to texture metal for guns is to undertstand that there are different chemical finishes used to treat the metal that end with a wide range of looks. For instance most American weapons for WWII were parkerized, which gives a matte gray finish. Your revolver would be treated with a process called "bluing," which is the most old school (and most desirable for many collectors).
Bluing is interesting because over time a well kept gun develops a patina; the colors change subtly and grow. Even in a newly blued gun, you should see a lot of deep blue/purple kind of colors just hinted in the surface, especially under reflection. That's on a new gun, if you're texturing a gun that's meant to look a hundred years old or whatever then the patina should be quite a bit more pronounced.
Check out the frame of this revolver just behind the cylinder and the cylinder. That's the kind of deep blue color I'm talking about. But it's rarely entirely consistent throughout the entire frame of the gun.
It's going to be a very small environment, lots of sprawling corridors, so I figured I might as well get the most out of it, polygon-wise. It looks a little flat and boring up close when it's just a 2d plane, and as the environment is going to be very cramped, the player will often be close to the model.
^-(awesome)
[ame="
^-(boring)
[ame="
^-(also pretty slow, but shows adding a 'subtool'esque basemesh)
edit:... okay, it won't let me link the URL only. Whatever, have it embedded :P
One cool thing you can do is decimate and load up an old Mud or Z sculpt, and continue it in Sculptris. It's the same principle as decimating a sculpt before baking or retopo - but you're working with efficient triangulation the whole while. The public release should be coming soon though, so you guys can give it a try. It doesn't quite handle 20mil triangles at the moment, but the idea is that you don't need that many, and tiny surface details can be applied in bumpmap form.
PogoP: that hi poly wall looks great, and I agree that it would be best if you just baked that down to a flat plane with the ledge popping out for best results. Let the normal map and ao take care of the rest
Racer: fine hi poly wing work/interpretation
Catstyle: that weapon looks good. As for making it look better in marmo I'd say really reduce the blue on your spec(should be desaturated completely imo), up the gloss and tone down any contrast you have for your metal in your spec. That will give it a nice smooth, shiny metal look. This is all entirely up to how you want your metal to look, but for a standard metal those are my recommendations
and here Ive updated the textures and material properties, and spent the afternoon working with it. so freakin tired now...
vrav - wow i really want to try that now, cheers for the vids
Never cease to impress. Is that ocelot?
catstyle - looks awesome. re the post stuff I am having similar problems. if you find a fix let me know
rollin- coming along nice, is that a game you are making?
EricV - very nice indeed
Staccato: Reprise of the Chords
oh and btw.. the rim light is not doing your work favor bc its way to strong
all these shader settings make one want to use them all :poly142:
ani, nice nice nice
EricV: great bake but imo the spec needs some more love, to define the materials more, more small detail spec contrast for example
Lots to fix around the grip and near rear of cylinder.
yeah I am not overly convinced with rim light myself, i just felt obliged to use it for some reason:)
paint from ref
http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Word=joint&Dis=-2&MacroType=Mat
that "ref" looks like it came from the beginning of some very special movie genre.
edit: btw, all highpoly work done in sculptriseven though my art is crappy/rushed, sculptris models are perfectly usable for game art; bumpmap painting can be combined with normals+AO using the usual methods, looks fine - just don't be retarded and rush shit like I do
I probably should've looked at some reference images and not used such a limited palette. Whatever; I'm still kind of new to the whole painting thing.
A cool doodle I did while checking out Sculptris. I quite enjoy the program.
Pull the top of her head down so her eyes are in the middle of her head and pull her ears and the back of her jaw forward a little. You may also want to tone down her cheeks.
Vrav> there's nothing really wrong with what you've done, but you would want to polish how those spines come out of the wood, so it fits together more. Maybe a card with a little wood button decal thingy.
Just started today. This is a bit divergent for me. I'll get back to those concepts later.
Hobo Shaman? Maybe just deranged hobo...
-Frank
Feels a bit clay-like atm, but still WOW! Really nice base and a really nice start if this would go further. Me likei!