Just keep in mind that if you ever work with normalmaps, it is better to sacrifice some space to have less seams, as they are almost impossible to hide properly with a normalmap.
This was going to be Superman but I didn't plan the hair very well like extruding that bit of hair on his forhead in Maya before taking it into ZBrush and I can't go back and do it now. Gash.
I decided I would create a low poly character with a hand held such as the Nintendo DS or PSP in mind. He weighs in at 440 triangles and has a 128x128 map. I plan to recreate his stage and another fighter with the same limits of map size and poly count.
That is a cool style on that boxer, but you might want to change the zipper line on the front of the pants because right now it is kind of uhhh... "suspect".
[ QUOTE ]
holy crap my skinning is improving by a shocking amount
[/ QUOTE ]
it's nearly 2am, and for some reason that comment had more weight for me than most everything I've seen from you on these boards -- probably the most positive remark I've seen you make about your work and that's a good thing, since I know how hard it is to be happy with your own progress. The other thought I had was it made me think of biscuits. By the time I'd stopped digging in the cupboard, the goblins that live in my shoes had done a bit of a quick visual aid for you
progress is:
-base
-block in volumes
-pay attention to sharp edging, and specular, also introduce some greater ranges of colour fidelity (wanky talk for make it look interesting and VIBRANT DARLING)
-paint in some sub details (splat some overlays if you feel like it, but make sure you're still painting with the overlays using the stamp tool instead of blindly laying them down in layers). Pull out hero details and erase others you don't want.
Like I said, quick job, but hopefully should illustrate the point.
As an addendum to that, here are some thoughs I felt should be added.
Now, you did a good job about picking out the hard and soft muscles as individual chunks. Now if you scale your image down as if you were looking from a distance you'll be seeing lots of light and dark spots all over the body. You'd want to go in afterwards, or even keep it in mind before on how the model would usually be lit from the top. With that in mind you wouldn't want to have many dark darks on parts that are facing upward as even if it's in a recessed area, plenty of light is still going to be hitting it.
You can still describe the surface of the muscle by using lights and darks to create your contrast, but you wouldn't be using such a dark dark in those instances. The light would be hitting that part of the body and bouncing around to nearby parts. Doing this will also get your muscle groups to start blending into each other. Not even a gargoyle can survive with 0% body fat.
My friend asked for a snake-monster model. I'm afraid it might be too cliche, maybe I should go with legs. I'm thinking of adding some webbed hands (2 claws and a thumb?) and some web/hood action under the arms, don't know if that'll deform well....
Certainly didn't wanna dig up the old thread, but revamped my site today. Also did some reworking of the reel. Rendered the German out with parallax just for you EricC
Work on the way the face edgeloops 'flow' into the nose, as right now the nose doesn't seem to be really well connected to the head.
And the edgeloop that forms 'fold' that goes from the corner of the nose to the side of the mouth should better be elongated around the mouth too.
Replies
Just keep in mind that if you ever work with normalmaps, it is better to sacrifice some space to have less seams, as they are almost impossible to hide properly with a normalmap.
There's something on the wing...
Working on the texture, but thought it would be a good time to do my first pose
:]
I decided I would create a low poly character with a hand held such as the Nintendo DS or PSP in mind. He weighs in at 440 triangles and has a 128x128 map. I plan to recreate his stage and another fighter with the same limits of map size and poly count.
Critiques or comments are very welcome. Thanks
Practing some lighting fun:
holy crap my skinning is improving by a shocking amount
[/ QUOTE ]
it's nearly 2am, and for some reason that comment had more weight for me than most everything I've seen from you on these boards -- probably the most positive remark I've seen you make about your work and that's a good thing, since I know how hard it is to be happy with your own progress. The other thought I had was it made me think of biscuits. By the time I'd stopped digging in the cupboard, the goblins that live in my shoes had done a bit of a quick visual aid for you
progress is:
-base
-block in volumes
-pay attention to sharp edging, and specular, also introduce some greater ranges of colour fidelity (wanky talk for make it look interesting and VIBRANT DARLING)
-paint in some sub details (splat some overlays if you feel like it, but make sure you're still painting with the overlays using the stamp tool instead of blindly laying them down in layers). Pull out hero details and erase others you don't want.
Like I said, quick job, but hopefully should illustrate the point.
biscuits........
Now, you did a good job about picking out the hard and soft muscles as individual chunks. Now if you scale your image down as if you were looking from a distance you'll be seeing lots of light and dark spots all over the body. You'd want to go in afterwards, or even keep it in mind before on how the model would usually be lit from the top. With that in mind you wouldn't want to have many dark darks on parts that are facing upward as even if it's in a recessed area, plenty of light is still going to be hitting it.
You can still describe the surface of the muscle by using lights and darks to create your contrast, but you wouldn't be using such a dark dark in those instances. The light would be hitting that part of the body and bouncing around to nearby parts. Doing this will also get your muscle groups to start blending into each other. Not even a gargoyle can survive with 0% body fat.
Etienne
1 day ill make something worthy of homeworld2
anyway I was having fun with animating him such as this taunt anim which has him open up
IK is really a lifesaver
XepptizZ: How do you reload that thing?
[/ QUOTE ]
With lotsa difficulty:P, but anyways, it shoots spikes so I figured you can just chuck them spikes in the sloth on the top.
http://www.daz-art.com
Doing this for a independent game. Still lots of work do to and lack of time Any help is apreciated:
Here's my latests attempt at the heads topology, its supposed to look a bit cartoony... what do you think?
And the edgeloop that forms 'fold' that goes from the corner of the nose to the side of the mouth should better be elongated around the mouth too.
I've been told the abs are off, and have to agree...
Here's where my snake guy's at...
I think I'll optimize him after the Dom War ends and use it as a texturing project.
Texturing is frustrating .
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep. Trying to learn, tonight:
I was trying to go for a cross between Caravaggio and Egon Schiele.
Her again. Except this time for Q4.
another one to add to my non-gargoyle model collection...
Something about it is just totally, proportionally wrong, and he looks way too static, but what should I do to fix that?
what should I do to fix that?
[/ QUOTE ]
Check is proportions to reference, and curve his spine a bit?