Hello ladies, I have a question on modelling something.
I know I could just normal map these details, but IF I wanted to actually model in the mesh effect on the surface, how would I go about it, especially with the circular cutouts..?
Would love to shed some light on this...
I had a go at this. It's not perfect and there's some artifacts but once you zoom out to viewing distance they are hardly visible. The main problem with this shape is getting the amount of strips to line up with the sides of the cylinder to avoid the most cleanup. I'm sure there is a better number than what I have used and a better method but it's another one of those situations of planning exactly where you are going to put all the primitives and loops.
This detail is giving me some trouble. Its a round hole with a hard transition into a straight hole in a cylinder. Bumping my base cylinder geo still gave me artifacts, quite visible from a distance.
Looks really good. If its for an offline rendering I would use displacement, just create a striped texture and use a planar UV map. With enough subdivisions it could look really good.
If you are planning to bake it, you could also use displacement or bumpmapping, depending on your baking Software.
i'm currently modelling a shotgun. My problem is modelling the pump. I need help in modelling that. Help will be appreciated much*
Haha that Remington 870 Marine version is one of the models I'm working on. I don't have the model with me right now to show how I approached it though.
So I apologize in advance for sounding like a total noob, but I haven't done any HP modeling for awhile as most of my classes have been centered around other areas of game design. Anyhow, I'm having issues with some inside corners of the slide on a Colt 1911. The corners are rounding out even with twhat I thought was proper topo in these areas. Also, there is a pinch going on under that beveled area where I am thinking the topo is fine too. Please any help would be great. Sorry for the multi-screengrabs, but I wanted to show the area the best I could-complete with 3ds Max's fancy viewport shading problems:poly127:
Hey there, I actually started over on that slide but I'm sure I'll run into more problems as I go. I was leaving the bottom area deleted, but seeing as it is the HP I'm going to just leave that area intact this go around. Anyhow, the piece I'm modeling right now is this top slide. I am having more probs. than I thought I would with that transition bevel area at the front of the barrel.
Your screenshots are in orthographic and zoomed in, it doesn't really help us to identify the overall problem. Take a look at how other people showed us their problems in this thread and please repost screenshots.
Sorry about that tynew. I always seem to forget to get out of ortho before a grab:poly124:. I think the piece is getting there and I'm not worried about the bad hole cut in as I'm just using that for the barrel to be able to be extruded down inside for the HP without it being blocked by a closed area there. You can see the shading prob. also even after I've tried messing with different fixes that aren't working. What is a better way to go about that area where the bevel tapers down to the flat area to get better smoothing-those faces are not planar obviously. Is that a problem?
Thanks tynew, I was thinking I prolly needed to run that initial support edge coming fron the flat front inset down the vertical instead of running horizontal like I have mine now. I obviously just need more geo.
Also, I try to stay all quad, but how important is it really if you have some tri's if we are just baking down to a mostly tri LP anyhow? And also, if this was just a HP asset for a movie or something, would we need to try and make it all quads? Seems impossible sometimes with how certain objects' edges run down to points even in real life, and to get them to look right in 3d we need to follow this flow. I'm always conflicted about this.
Thanks for the help!
*P.S. How long did that take you by the way? That remodel took me a few hours to figure out the edge flow properly to that point-just sayin! I have a lot to learn....uggghhhh.
No problem hope it helps! I hope this wasn't relating to your issue in the general discussion thread. Otherwise that would have just meant your topology was the problem.
Also, I try to stay all quad, but how important is it really if you have some tri's if we are just baking down to a mostly tri LP anyhow?
You should try and stay quads. Although if you have to resort to tris somewhere it's not a big deal, as long as the mesh looks good smoothed that's all that matters in my opinion. That has also been said a lot from most other artists.
And also, if this was just a HP asset for a movie or something, would we need to try and make it all quads? Seems impossible sometimes with how certain objects' edges run down to points even in real life, and to get them to look right in 3d we need to follow this flow. I'm always conflicted about this.
The same high poly hard surface workflow usually applies for movies. As long as it looks good. The only time you would want to care about mesh flow is if it's deforming under animation. Then again that's rarely the case since mechanical pieces in real life are all separate objects. I think it took around 10 minutes, it's the first time I've modeled a shape like that. A pro artist would do that in a couple of minutes.
And one thing I learned from making handguns is to start with the back of the slide first, as that is usually the most complex part and you need the freedom of adding and removing loops to get it looking right. If you start from the front and work your way back, you will find that it is difficult to add or remove geometry.
The slide is easily the most difficult part of the gun, so I try to make sure I have a good understanding of what the slide looks like by itself. This video was invaluable in helping me figure out what the slide was supposed to look like:
if you are talking about the highpoly, for most stuff, just split it into as much pieces as possible, makes things a lot easier.
When something is a different piece in real life = different piece in the highpoly.
And one thing I learned from making handguns is to start with the back of the slide first, as that is usually the most complex part and you need the freedom of adding and removing loops to get it looking right. If you start from the front and work your way back, you will find that it is difficult to add or remove geometry.
The slide is easily the most difficult part of the gun, so I try to make sure I have a good understanding of what the slide looks like by itself. This video was invaluable in helping me figure out what the slide was supposed to look like:
The back huh? I guess it's too late for me to do that, but I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for the modeling tip and the video. I started at the front because I kept looking at that transition bevel and was thinking that is the hardest looking part to me.
I am having trouble with this shape. I need crisp, machined edges as shown in the right most example but can't seem to achieve a good result. Increasing the density will minimize the problem but the mesh seems heavy enough already?
I actually had a piece I modeled once with a very similar type of merger before. Try this paintover I did. The blue lines are removed, the green lines are added. You'll have a couple of tri's, but if it looks good smoothed most would say just run with it.
What Earthquake said is probably right, depending on the scale. Anyway my quick go, I used a 96 sided cylinder instead of 48. This is pretty fun I should do this more often
and btw, you can make the cutout the same way. As I change the diameter, position or angle of the cylinder selection gizmo, the depression follows along in realtime
I have gotten the itoo clone mod., but what are you using to make the mesh conform to that cylinder in real time? Is it some kind of path deform or something? I'm real curious.
I have gotten the itoo clone mod., but what are you using to make the mesh conform to that cylinder in real time? Is it some kind of path deform or something? I'm real curious.
I believe it is the Volume Selector. It makes it so that it selects vertices or faces that are contained within a specific volume(box,sphere,cylinder, etc).
Hi everyone ! I'm new here, and I got a noob question about 3Ds Max, but don't want to create new thread. I used isoline display in turbosmooth modifier. everybody know what happen when collapse, or export the mesh with Isoline display mode turn on. every time I want to export the high poly mesh to other apps, I have to manually turn off isoline for every single piece. So, my question is; Is there any way or any script allow me to select the whole HP model and turn off isoline
Hey Polygear. I Think your problem is that you're slightly misunderstanding how the shape actually works in real life. The "edge" portion of the blade seems to start on a double serration and you're trying to start it before that. In real life if you started an edge like that, you do get a tiered look in that curve like what you have there.
The way blades are made is the rough taper is ground out and the edge is left rough, false, or otherwise not-sharp. What you have right now, looks like the taper, and the edge/serration grinding were part of the same process like it was molded that way (which wouldn't be the case for real blades)
In the case of this knife, there should never be a place where the edge is slanted twice except for serrations, but you have a non-serrated part right at the base of the edge there. It should be a soft/false/unsharpened edge right up until the first serration, and then taper down to a sharp edge inside the first serration.
I wanted to do a mockup explaining what I mean by this because it's probably a little hard to understand in this explanation. if I have time I'll edit the post with some examples of what I mean.
Hey Polygear. I Think your problem is that you're slightly misunderstanding how the shape actually works in real life. The "edge" portion of the blade seems to start on a double serration and you're trying to start it before that. In real life if you started an edge like that, you do get a tiered look in that curve like what you have there.
The way blades are made is the rough taper is ground out and the edge is left rough, false, or otherwise not-sharp. What you have right now, looks like the taper, and the edge/serration grinding were part of the same process like it was molded that way (which wouldn't be the case for real blades)
In the case of this knife, there should never be a place where the edge is slanted twice except for serrations, but you have a non-serrated part right at the base of the edge there. It should be a soft/false/unsharpened edge right up until the first serration, and then taper down to a sharp edge inside the first serration.
I wanted to do a mockup explaining what I mean by this because it's probably a little hard to understand in this explanation. if I have time I'll edit the post with some examples of what I mean.
Hello good guys polycounters My question is How u model dem shapes?
Is there any quick method to do this kind of "wrapping". I would rather model this in Max and then sculpt it a bit than just sculpt it from base.
I would first do a blockout with some simple cylinders. Just create one, and copy, rotate, scale and deform it with noise, lattice and so on. To give a better illusion of wrapped geometry the cylinders need to overlap nearly completely at some points.
After you got the rough form make some detail adjustments.
I know that this wont give you the effect of one piece of geomety which is wrapped arround a cylinder but its an approach of creating the illusion.
Someone please help, I want to think that I can model this but I just can't.
To make the shape I made the extrusions on a plane and then used a 'Curve' modifier to turn it into a cylinder, however when I extrude inwards there's really bad pinching around the edges. The center is slightly elevated upwards.
This seems to work pretty well for me. I made 2 curved planes with equal edge loops : one for the top and one for the side. Then I performed a simple boolean operation and used array and curve modifiers to make it into a circle.
EDIT: moving the inner verts along their edge seems to help with making the edge thickness even.
Replies
I had a go at this. It's not perfect and there's some artifacts but once you zoom out to viewing distance they are hardly visible. The main problem with this shape is getting the amount of strips to line up with the sides of the cylinder to avoid the most cleanup. I'm sure there is a better number than what I have used and a better method but it's another one of those situations of planning exactly where you are going to put all the primitives and loops.
If you are planning to bake it, you could also use displacement or bumpmapping, depending on your baking Software.
Looks elegant. Will try that out, thanks.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4rag22se1nbaef/pump.jpg?m=
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4rag22se1nbaef/pump.jpg?m=
Haha that Remington 870 Marine version is one of the models I'm working on. I don't have the model with me right now to show how I approached it though.
i m trying to make the same thing like in the white hole
and i have got that
I know i have to make quadri but :poly127:???!!!!!.........can t do it....................
thank for your reply
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ur113qw50nz71lc/cylinder.obj
thanks in advance!:thumbup:
Download link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwnhBIRqmJGMZDVmcWNrdFNmSlE/edit?usp=sharing
Hopefully works
Also, I try to stay all quad, but how important is it really if you have some tri's if we are just baking down to a mostly tri LP anyhow? And also, if this was just a HP asset for a movie or something, would we need to try and make it all quads? Seems impossible sometimes with how certain objects' edges run down to points even in real life, and to get them to look right in 3d we need to follow this flow. I'm always conflicted about this.
Thanks for the help!
*P.S. How long did that take you by the way? That remodel took me a few hours to figure out the edge flow properly to that point-just sayin! I have a lot to learn....uggghhhh.
You should try and stay quads. Although if you have to resort to tris somewhere it's not a big deal, as long as the mesh looks good smoothed that's all that matters in my opinion. That has also been said a lot from most other artists.
The same high poly hard surface workflow usually applies for movies. As long as it looks good. The only time you would want to care about mesh flow is if it's deforming under animation. Then again that's rarely the case since mechanical pieces in real life are all separate objects. I think it took around 10 minutes, it's the first time I've modeled a shape like that. A pro artist would do that in a couple of minutes.
And one thing I learned from making handguns is to start with the back of the slide first, as that is usually the most complex part and you need the freedom of adding and removing loops to get it looking right. If you start from the front and work your way back, you will find that it is difficult to add or remove geometry.
The slide is easily the most difficult part of the gun, so I try to make sure I have a good understanding of what the slide looks like by itself. This video was invaluable in helping me figure out what the slide was supposed to look like:
[ame="
thanks in advance
When something is a different piece in real life = different piece in the highpoly.
The back huh? I guess it's too late for me to do that, but I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for the modeling tip and the video. I started at the front because I kept looking at that transition bevel and was thinking that is the hardest looking part to me.
Thanks
I am having trouble with this shape. I need crisp, machined edges as shown in the right most example but can't seem to achieve a good result. Increasing the density will minimize the problem but the mesh seems heavy enough already?
Thanks,
George
First off, if you simply zoom out and view it from a reasonable distance I doubt you'll notice the pinching. What is the scale of this object?
Secondly, a really simple and quick trick you can try, slide the red edges out to where the green lines are:
Download FBX
I have gotten the itoo clone mod., but what are you using to make the mesh conform to that cylinder in real time? Is it some kind of path deform or something? I'm real curious.
The way blades are made is the rough taper is ground out and the edge is left rough, false, or otherwise not-sharp. What you have right now, looks like the taper, and the edge/serration grinding were part of the same process like it was molded that way (which wouldn't be the case for real blades)
In the case of this knife, there should never be a place where the edge is slanted twice except for serrations, but you have a non-serrated part right at the base of the edge there. It should be a soft/false/unsharpened edge right up until the first serration, and then taper down to a sharp edge inside the first serration.
I wanted to do a mockup explaining what I mean by this because it's probably a little hard to understand in this explanation. if I have time I'll edit the post with some examples of what I mean.
Is there any quick method to do this kind of "wrapping". I would rather model this in Max and then sculpt it a bit than just sculpt it from base.
Thank you esPhys
After you got the rough form make some detail adjustments.
I know that this wont give you the effect of one piece of geomety which is wrapped arround a cylinder but its an approach of creating the illusion.
To make the shape I made the extrusions on a plane and then used a 'Curve' modifier to turn it into a cylinder, however when I extrude inwards there's really bad pinching around the edges. The center is slightly elevated upwards.
EDIT: moving the inner verts along their edge seems to help with making the edge thickness even.
http://www.polycount.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1878592&postcount=3030
You haven't posted your attempt, so no way to tell what exactly is going wrong, but maybe that helps.
You basicly just need to move up the inner ridges up to make the top planar again.