LOW-POLY ART
polycounter lvl 19
This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Replies
This will just be a tutorial level, thats why the battle field is pretty small, player will start off with 3 characters VS 7 enemies. The player character model will be 350-400 Tris each while enemy monsters will range from 250-500 Tris. I will be using the unity engine, which in some of their forums say they can handle as much as 7000 tris at one go.
C&C are welcome
exactly, only do flatten uv to get all the uv faces and then move them around for best placement
i made a quick mdel of an ibanez (dont know which model) and quickly unwrapped it to this:
Well helo thar friend
I'd say the textures' levels need a little tweaking, and if I was doing it, i'd probably go in and do some pixel-by-pixel "clean up" of some of the textures, particularly cobble stones and stuff like that. Doing pixel art crap on this kind of texture can be a bit fiddly but the end result will look a lot more crisp than it really is.
Manual pixel work should also help bring a style out more. Atm theres a bit of noise in it which looks good on higher res textures, but scaling down it can start to look speckly. By manually painting these out you can get a much more vivid and stylised result which will help give it the aesthetic of an old console RPG
for example:
http://www.refrag.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/tileset2.png
ingame:
just over 500 tris
hehehe
Very odd camo though on the ref I have to say!
im working on a texture on it.... model and texture is be based on the old pc game called Tank Racer, released 1999
EDIT: updated the texture, it now have correct color but not the real texture or normal map but you get the point...
after cleanup of excess vertexes, i will texture and normal map it seriously and might consider merging all textures into 1x 512^2 instead of having them on 3 individual textures...
EDIT:
Yellow: Make it solid
Blue: Why did you triangulate a perfect poly?
Green: Merge so you only have a split going through the middle.
Red: Re-do, do right
/There is no actual reason for you to have splits going round your mesh in the middle there, polywaste of doom!
Same thing goes for the cannonhead./
http://grungemedia.com/dkseries/My_Work/HordeZone/turret1sketch.png
434 polies
http://grungemedia.com/dkseries/My_Work/HordeZone/turret2sketch.png
323 polies
Holy crap dude, those rule!
I have one crit to make though, and correct me if I'm wrong but this is bugging my eyes:
I meant for them to look like that, but do you think it looks weird?
EDIT: I did those changes and I think it looks better. Thanks! :poly124:
I haven't seen normal mapping or bump mapping on any of those platforms though myself.
But then again you decide for yourself how you interpret that and what you make out of it.
Of course, some very slick, neat UV maps have been posted on this thread - but when it comes to doing my own, despite knowing what it SHOULD look like, well, it just doesn't.
I'm currently shooting for the record of empty UV space. Here are two examples.
How would you have gone about laying out those UVs to be as efficient as possible?
By the way my method is simply selecting all faces, flatten mapping, OK, then indulging in the fun UV minigame, some moving here, welding there, etc etc.
I haven't experimented with pelt mapping, it doesn't seem particularly appropriate for low poly stuff, especially vehicles - but I'd like to know how you all go about creating your UV's.
Cheers,
RumbleSushi
I'd say its up to you to arbitrate if it belongs here. It used to be "under 500 triangles" but i often posted 600-800 stuff if it still had the "spirit" of a lowpoly/handheld piece. I guess a good rule of thumb is to decide whether you specifically designed it for an "inferior" hardware by modern standards, because from what i gather the thing people like about this thread is that the intention is not only to pimp the models and textures themselves, but the techniques used to really squish them into a tiny efficient package without any huge sacrifice in aesthetics. I'd say if it appeals to that ideal, it belongs here
but that's just my opinion
The lines are meant to be underlying rib structures of the plane. On the DVII they weren't as noticable as the earlier eindeckers and stuff, but they were there and they add a bit of visual interest to the texture (rather than just a flat colour)
I'm also keeping their layout the same from the start. When i move onto other colour schemes, it will be easy to see different distributions of wear and grim on them (which sadly doesnt show up when you slap a crazy camo on it)
for example:
http://warandgame.files.wordpress.com/2007/12/neufokkkerviiiopsml.jpg
yep, during ww1 camouflage was still only being experimented with. A lot of the camouflage was not actually to hide the position of the machines, but to make it difficult to interpret which direction they were travelling in. Same with ww1 boat camouflage (which is possibly even crazier, but if you've ever played a submarine sim you'll know its fucking impossibly to hit a boat without a fairly accuarate idea of its heading) But if you think of it like this, it all starts to make sense
it was extremely common and even "standard" among central powers planes. Even a few allied planes seemed to experiment with similar setups.
The austro-huns more commonly used plain hexagons. This type of camouflage was called "lozenge" and it came in many colour combinations.
but it's far from the craziest ww1 aircraft paint schemes. Most pilots painted their own designs purely to their tastes and there was a lot of showmanship and mythology involved, so you got crazy colours happening. For this reason, in dicta we will allow players to use their own texture files in multiplayer
Textures look a bit dirty though. Maybe try showcasing without texture filtering on and flat diffuse lighting
to make the model it self look smoother
Secondly by mirroring as much as possible. For lots of things (not everything) it works out pretty nicely to have just below half of the model unique. for a character that would be something like everything mirrored, except 2 polies across the chest where you then put a very assymetrical logo, and the face. For the scooter you could do something like you did with mirrored flames, but uniquely unwrapped text.
For the car I would have unwrapped the middle part of the car as one long scroll, like you did, ubt i would have used the maximum width of the image. It looks like you put the tire threads to the right, I would have squeezed them in at the top (also with tiling, like the tracks). You also have a bunch of empty rows at the bottom, so i'd stretch the side of the car a bit and add some more detail.
Or you could try to get rid of the mirrored text. the side text is mostly on 1 triangle now. If you adjust a bit, and get it all on that single polygon, you can make a unique, not-mirrored texture for that 1 triangle. In the current state there's plenty of pixels in the bottom for that 1 triangle.
And lastly a modeling tip: it doesn't have to be 1 single solid model.On the car you could have saved a decent lot of polies if you made the headlights as separate objects. (would save a total of 10-12 or so triangles, which might not sound as much, but ends up being about 5% of your total. On the snowmobile you could have the steer as a separate object, which would save polies and allow for animation.
I have an example *somewhere* of a snow mobile.. I'll find it for you when I wake up
Better yet
Models look nice, texture is a bit flat. Have you tried adding a bit of hue variation in there? Right now theres just 1 hue for green. How about having it a bit blue in the shadow and yellow in the light?
Something like this, but less extreme:
Loving it dude! I want to see moar!
you should team up with a coder and make a td game out of the untiy engine or something
Funny that you mention it, but this is for a TD game in unity lol. Though, I am having to code it for a final project :poly127:
Luckily we are keeping it very simple, and only having 4 turrets and 3 monsters. I will post those when I get them done
Lessons learned:
1. Clean the model, and check triangulation!
2. When unwrapping check for texture stretching from time to time!
3. When texturing, have an "imaginary" light source to not get "flat" looking textures.
C&C are welcome! It's great how much you can push a 64x64 texture!
IMO, the UV scaling should be the opposite of what you have now. More space to the head and less to the ear/side of head. Use softselection to do that.
Haha great timing mr rob, also very sharp art, clean but nice.
the metal is bent, the manufacturing of those panels would have an unnecesary cost, and a wear pattern consistant with that angle*
so you could either change the texture to reflect that bend... add rivots and turn the panel into triangles (fig b2). or just make the thing work with planes (fig c).
*regardless of the fact that it is a work of fiction of course, but the last time i saw a energy-laso-cannon-turrets it didn't have bent metal panels, i'm just saying...
Mr_Drayton, props. im a fan of Fejers work myself
Ya it is, but I realized it too late so it is staying like that now. These are so small when they are seen that it doesn't bother me too much, but if anything I will just take the numbers off.
Either way, those are looking great, d2king10!!!