LOW-POLY ART
polycounter lvl 19
This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Replies
yeah already redone anyway haha.
Texture WIP at the moment, only blade and handle done.
the marking menu gives you cursor-anywhere popups, it has the tool
defaulted in the shift + RightMouseButton options.
your hand stays on the left side of the keyboard, cntrl and shift keys = marking menus, alt for camera. move/rotate/scale (w,e,r) and d,x,c,v are for all the snap and pivot alterations.
[delete] and [backspace] by default are the function "doDelete;" which removes selected lines or faces, but does not alter geometry (vertices) until a vertex is left with < 2 lines connecting to it.
"doDelete;" does nothing on vertices on their own.
you use this feature to alter loops or line directions without having to alter vertex count.
the function "polyDelEdge" will remove lines and connected vertices, but not faces. ("performPolyDeleteElements;" does the same thing it seems and probably a redundancy The Autodesk decided to create)
Maya is a low level, node based, modular tools system; all complex actions are derived from basic, robust, tools
you can set/alter hot keys, you can add the function to a shelf
or use the marking menu.
ah cool ill keep that inh mind in the future.
First of all, in regards to texture, use a checker pattern as your texture and make sure that every area not only is actually mapped (i.e no stretched UVs), but also that everything is mapped to the correct and same scale. This would mean that each square of your checker texture would be the same size no matter where it is on the mesh. Looking at your texture above you can see this would not be the case. The base of the handle for example, takes up more width in pixels than the blade, even though the blade is 5 times wider. The base of the blade is seriously stretched on your texture, but for no reason. So, you have to keep everything 1:1. Another important tip is that you don't have to use a 1:1 texture size. Keep the texture power of two, but use any combination you like. Your texture is 333x333, which would look horrible, much worse than a 256x256.
In other words, use any of the following: 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, 1024, 2048, 4096. For this asset, I would imagine you using 256x128.
In regards to the actual mesh the same can be said about that, too. You have a lot of splits there that will bump the polycount up but add nothing to the mesh itself. Whats more, for the actual resolution and scale of this mesh, you have a hell of a lot of splits in the handle and have it split 3 times. You could actually have the handle be a single 8 sided tube and nobody would ever tell the difference.
ah yes i did triangulate it but the amount of triangles looked weird and messy. ill go back and just retriangulate it although im not quite sure what you mean by my texel density is inhomogeneous.
ah excelent thanks, ill completely revise this now. thanks for the help.
is there a way to delete a post by the way?
Inhomogenous texel density = some parts have more detailed textures then other parts. For instance your blade is lots bigger then the handle, but gets the same texture space. In my example all the pixels are roughly the same in the 3d view (though the handle is a bit stretched) which makes the model look more consistent after texturing.
I use max so can't help you with Maya problems, sorry.
I think only mods can delete posts.
As you can see, the head has a really pointy silhouette, by getting rid of the red lines, anc implementing the green lines, you could save a bunch of polies, which could then be used to round out the head. It looks like you're just mirroring the model, with very little effort you can usually collapse some verts there to free up tens of polies.
What's the problem specifically you're having with the hair?
You would still have plenty of animation freedom in the eyes, as shown by ScoobyDoofus's avatar:
And the head could use quite some optimization. The sphere type you're using there isn't a great one. In this case i would probably go with a subdivided cube to make texturing easier(it unwraps just like a cube), or if you want to save some extra polies you could manually optimize this and you could keep the current unwrap.
I would also make the middle 3 rows of polygons a single row, and put the teeth in as planes, because right now you have a loop in the back of the head that doesn't do anything for the silhouette.
You could also remove a few polies in the back of the mouth, as that's not seen often/up close (I assume)
But these things are more about saving polies then they are about texturing.
Oh, i would scale up the texture islands, it looks like you have sometimes 20 pixels in between, which is overkill, even with filtering. And without filtering you canput the pixels literally adjacent to eachother:
i tryed upscaling the islands but i was concerned about keeping everything in scale, one of the things i went about so badly before.
Edit:
Scrap that, i was too eager to start texturing i already did it haha. what do you guys think?
Also how do you make those cool little spinning GIF's?
Since it's low poly you may want to use the texture to describe the form more, like darkening the inside of the head and putting a shadow under the ridge of the pot. Right now it blends together too much.
Meanwhile, the seam between the stem and head isn't blended enough.
yeah i wish i could darken the inside of the mouth but the outside texture is reflected on the inside because its just a planes thick, but yeah ill make sure to go through and add more shading in places. that seam between the head and stem has been a nightmare haha ive almost got it down though.
Creative solution for the throat though, and the textures materials look great.
Yeah your right Ill reconstruct the mouth, got to use polys as much as save them haha. Also the head is weilded to the stem, I just need to make adjustment to the texture and it will look fine I hope haha.
Also dam nice looking base d2king10
More like 15000 triangles. You should edit out the picture too...
I wanted to give low-poly a try as well, here I am trying to make a face that isn't so flat, to make it work from more angles
I've been working on some stuff the past couple of days too, will post soon
~750 tris, 1 512 diff and one 256 alpha
boy there's a lot of people with KILL in their usernames here :P
@Rang3r1
What a coincidence, I have been making pokemans too
They are pretty fun to model, actually
700 tris
Working on this guy as well, I am really proud though it has a long way to go before it's finished
thinking of redoing the UVs on a more rectangular map, then maybe I can have the whole body and neck in one piece with no seams, just a seam for the head and the arms. Maybe he should have a fancy battle outfit
After a lot of lurking... FIRST POST! :O
Anyway, just a quickie done in an hour or so.
Am I allowed to use normals or is that considered a cheat?
I do love my smooth edges
You have inadvertently stolen my heart as well. Great job on the whole thing
Btw, that was amazing, I almost had tears of joy at the end of the video ^^
made a cactus as is my name sake. tryed some shading this time, shame i couldnt match the textures up properlly, it was too hard
Textures fine, if a little odd for a cactus
Yeah I really need to re-unwrap, I'll try those tips thanks. With no seams this cactus will truely be fantasticoooo!
you can make your shading with vertex colours. that´s how a lot of older games did it, and even recent handheld games.
oh yeah a guy from TT Fusion came down to my class a couple of months ago and talkedn about making indiana jones DS and showed us vertex lighting. shame i forgot how haha oh well, good old google lol
Close-up:
Lessons learned: Textures are hard. Practice more!
Unwrapping is governed by what bits of the model will be seen the most.
The hat is WW1 English, the rifle looks like some sort of AK-47 and the uniform looks British but with German colors
Also, if that is final scale, dont you think hes al ittle too big? you wont see much of anything else action wise with him that size.
painting looks reasonably solid but you should pay more attention to the overall shapes, the head looks weird, particularly the eyes slanting inward on extreme angles
Soldier is just based of some existing real-world things. The game he is supposed to go in will be a blend of WW1 and fantasy/steampunk.
Game resolution isn't really set. The programmer is experimenting a bit with it. Game will be run from Unity Web player if all goes well.
Will have to take a look at the unwrap of the head.