@Danielmn
I had this on my mind, but i presumed it wouldn't help in this case although i can now see how it might ^^ I'll give it a go and report back. Here is the smoothed version. It looks ok, although there's a few dodgy areas which i want to fix. Cheers.
EDIT: I tried again. looks a little better, still some slight stretching at the corner but it shouldn't be too noticeable once the screw is in i guess. Im sure there's a better way still :P
@Danielmn
I had this on my mind, but i presumed it wouldn't help in this case although i can now see how it might ^^ I'll give it a go and report back. Here is the smoothed version. It looks ok, although there's a few dodgy areas which i want to fix. Cheers.
EDIT: I tried again. looks a little better, still some slight stretching at the corner but it shouldn't be too noticeable once the screw is in i guess. Im sure there's a better way still :P
Thats awesome, thank you! I can understand better now. I'll re-work my topology taking this into account and hopefully it'll sort out the last few niggles.
Ive been trying to rap my brain around how I am going to this cut but can't figure out how I am going to do it.
This is my working geo.
This is my first shot at hard surfacing so my workflow right now is
1) make the shape with all the bevels, cuts, etc.
2) insert support edges and clean topo
Is that an optimal way of working?
@ RENDEREN :"My two cent's" I am as well a begginer in hard surfacing, but what i could tell you is that floaters can really make your job extremely less frustrating. You can easily do a few floaters there and just focus on the bevel shape's.
@ RENDEREN :"My two cent's" I am as well a begginer in hard surfacing, but what i could tell you is that floaters can really make your job extremely less frustrating. You can easily do a few floaters there and just focus on the bevel shape's.
I was thinking of going that way but I wanted to treat this as a film hero piece. As if the camera would get really close to it. Also, I don't know how well floaters would work on the bevel that's above the magazine clip since it's at the corner and would greatly affect the silhouette when even slightly turned.
@Danielmn
I had this on my mind, but i presumed it wouldn't help in this case although i can now see how it might ^^ I'll give it a go and report back. Here is the smoothed version. It looks ok, although there's a few dodgy areas which i want to fix. Cheers.
EDIT: I tried again. looks a little better, still some slight stretching at the corner but it shouldn't be too noticeable once the screw is in i guess. Im sure there's a better way still :P
You kinda got an answer to it already but I recently did one so I figured I might as well show that:
Splines you could use for the base of an ornament indeed. However this "split/double edge" effect that you see is most likely the result of Zbrush's "mirror and weld" function where you copy 1 side of a mesh to another one.
Okay, I've encountered something that I thought should be simple but it turns out that I simply cannot think of a proper solution so far. I thought I was better than this. Bleh.
How would you go about modeling something cog-like? How would you keep the squareness of the bumps and the roundness of the base? I did a quick (very) wrong topology to illustrate this:
I'm certain there's a very simple way, but I'm having one of these days where I seem to can't get anything done properly.
Okay, I've encountered something that I thought should be simple but it turns out that I simply cannot think of a proper solution so far. I thought I was better than this. Bleh.
How would you go about modeling something cog-like? How would you keep the squareness of the bumps and the roundness of the base? I did a quick (very) wrong topology to illustrate this:
I'm certain there's a very simple way, but I'm having one of these days where I seem to can't get anything done properly.
here are some video tuts I did on this subject awhile back, sorry if I ramble its just my style https://vimeo.com/27626734
this is cutting holes into the object but very similar idea.
Couldn't save your picture, so had to do it this way.
Some possible solutions, if there is a triangle where it actually is ending in a point I usually do something like the last picture.
Triangles are not always bad, in fact in that spot it would probable work just fine.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind next time. I was mainly concerned about messing with my edge loops, but maybe I shouldn't worry about it so much. I ended up just changing the shape of the bracer, and it looks fine. I should stop trying to avoid problems and just solve them in the future though :poly124:
I think it looks better with the quad bracers than the triangular ones in the end anyways. Here's the untextured low poly:
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind next time. I was mainly concerned about messing with my edge loops, but maybe I shouldn't worry about it so much. I ended up just changing the shape of the bracer, and it looks fine. I should stop trying to avoid problems and just solve them in the future though :poly124:
I think it looks better with the quad bracers than the triangular ones in the end anyways. Here's the untextured low poly:
^ Yeah, that script is quite helpful. The weld lines it creates aren't very realistic, the splines it creates along intersecting meshes can be used though (I sculpted just them to add a welded look to a model made with subD)
Any ideas on this? Trying to model a lock barrel, having trouble figuring out the best edge flow and getting pinching, presumably because of that pole on the corner.
You can try something like this, I've used a 48 sided cylinder, but I think you can use less subdivisions too.
In fact I showed you his unsmoothed mesh. Just to know if I understood what you meant by "add an extra edge loop".
Sorry. This is getting confusing.
Yes I saw his, and was referring to him originally. I was saying I didn't see your low poly to see how you did it compared to his, I read what you wrote, but I was trying to say I wanted to see the low poly of yours.
Sorry for the confusion.
Also, I have never been the best at understanding the Moar Geo thing, why not just do it with a lower poly count so it's less work when you're ready to bake? You get some issues but I don't think it's a big enough pinch if you are short on time in say a production scenario. Or at least saving time removing tons of loops to get he circular part game res.
The second set has different topology and you can see it requires a small amount of manual editing but has no issues. (as far as I can tell)
If I am wrong PLEASE correct me.
Sorry. This is getting confusing.
Yes I saw his, and was referring to him originally. I was saying I didn't see your low poly to see how you did it compared to his, I read what you wrote, but I was trying to say I wanted to see the low poly of yours.
Sorry for the confusion.
Also, I have never been the best at understanding the Moar Geo thing, why not just do it with a lower poly count so it's less work when you're ready to bake? You get some issues but I don't think it's a big enough pinch if you are short on time in say a production scenario. Or at least saving time removing tons of loops to get he circular part game res.
The second set has different topology and you can see it requires a small amount of manual editing but has no issues. (as far as I can tell)
If I am wrong PLEASE correct me.
We are misunderstanding each other , anyway
(I've removed an edge loop from the bottom as it seems irrelevant to keep the shape)
The only problem with yours is that have to look at the reference, it have a very circular shape at the bottom.
In this case I tried to reduce his poly count a bit, but as I said, and as you showed, it can be done with less sides too.
Some times less geometry can cause pinching, because it have difficulty to retain the desired shape, especially if it's curved, so it's better to start high than manually adding edges, is it possible in some cases, but not that fun.
The only problem with yours is that have to look at the reference, it have a very circular shape at the bottom.
In this case I tried to reduce his poly count a bit, but as I said, and as you showed, it can be done with less sides too.
Some times less geometry can cause pinching, because it have difficulty to retain the desired shape, especially if it's curved, so it's better to start high than manually adding edges, is it possible in some cases, but not that fun.
Do you have any advice as to when it's good to use more geo, I realize that's a somewhat vague question, but I mean I know sometimes you dont go and make something with 6 sided cylinders but I mean once you start passing 30 edges or so, since you have to plan that out. I just want to know other peoples workflow a little better, so that I can benefit from it. If you could give an example (besides this shape) where you've used it and why that would be cool:)
And for what it's worth I tried to make it like the ref, not that it really matters.
If you have an Area account, here is a link to some great videos that will help you out with all kinds of crazy geo. The links to parts 1 & 2 are at the bottom. Hope this helps someone out
Do you have any advice as to when it's good to use more geo, I realize that's a somewhat vague question, but I mean I know sometimes you dont go and make something with 6 sided cylinders but I mean once you start passing 30 edges or so, since you have to plan that out. I just want to know other peoples workflow a little better, so that I can benefit from it. If you could give an example (besides this shape) where you've used it and why that would be cool:)
And for what it's worth I tried to make it like the ref, not that it really matters.
Not that I'm an expert, I'm here for the same reason, learn new techniques.
This example is something I've found myself the need to use more geometry than usual:
Even with 24 sides I couldn't get a smooth result, near the hole I still get pinching, it can be fixed adding two more edges, but it's easier to start high:
Well, I'm always open to find better ways of doing hard surface modelling, so guys, don't be shy
How can i bend the flat one into the circle in Maya?
Anyone know how to make a Plane from flat to cylinder? Or a plane bend? In Maya
1. choose the flat mesh
2. go to animation > create deforms > Nonelinear > bend
3. Rotate the "Bend" Line so it sits flat with the mesh
4. click on the curvature and play around with the numbers to fit it around in a circle (Usually it's a PI, 3,1415 so it fits around perfectly)
I am being destroyed by these gothic ceilings :poly118:
Any help???
_________________________________________________________
FIGURED IT OUT! I oughta have some of you slap me. This was easy, can't believe I didn't think of this sooner :poly117:
Anywho, made a write up incase anyone ever sees this and wants to know :poly142:
if you need a deeper understanding of environment modeling like this..
Look in "Modular Environment Design" presentation by Kevin Johnstone (Epic Games)
(there you find a method of how bend modular elements - and understand technique)
after you can see "The Fountain - High Res Modeling" video tutorial
it perfectly explains how to split the architecture into modules - and model it
this should answer most questions
hm guys, I want to create this kind off archway with holes in them. I thought I could use splines but I am not sure how to do it right.. especially with turbosmooth.
Replies
I had this on my mind, but i presumed it wouldn't help in this case although i can now see how it might ^^ I'll give it a go and report back. Here is the smoothed version. It looks ok, although there's a few dodgy areas which i want to fix. Cheers.
EDIT: I tried again. looks a little better, still some slight stretching at the corner but it shouldn't be too noticeable once the screw is in i guess. Im sure there's a better way still :P
upload the obj.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ca2rfh96xouddp3/Desktoppirate_AimPoint.obj
And here is what I did, I don't have time to take a screenshot. The edges are tight but whatever, it's the idea behind it. Time for work!
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/82963315/Desktoppirate_AimPoint.obj
Thank you for taking the time to help, but that link is throwing a 404
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/82963315/Desktoppirate_AimPoint.obj
Try that.
Thats awesome, thank you! I can understand better now. I'll re-work my topology taking this into account and hopefully it'll sort out the last few niggles.
You're welcome sir.;)
This is my working geo.
This is my first shot at hard surfacing so my workflow right now is
1) make the shape with all the bevels, cuts, etc.
2) insert support edges and clean topo
Is that an optimal way of working?
I was thinking of going that way but I wanted to treat this as a film hero piece. As if the camera would get really close to it. Also, I don't know how well floaters would work on the bevel that's above the magazine clip since it's at the corner and would greatly affect the silhouette when even slightly turned.
You kinda got an answer to it already but I recently did one so I figured I might as well show that:
Splines you could use for the base of an ornament indeed. However this "split/double edge" effect that you see is most likely the result of Zbrush's "mirror and weld" function where you copy 1 side of a mesh to another one.
How would you go about modeling something cog-like? How would you keep the squareness of the bumps and the roundness of the base? I did a quick (very) wrong topology to illustrate this:
I'm certain there's a very simple way, but I'm having one of these days where I seem to can't get anything done properly.
For you.
I thought about something along these lines (creating it flat & bending) but I couldn't picture it properly in my head.
That helped a lot!
You're welcome!
https://vimeo.com/27626734
this is cutting holes into the object but very similar idea.
can't find it anywhere
Some possible solutions, if there is a triangle where it actually is ending in a point I usually do something like the last picture.
@lloyd
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m245/A_User_Name_That_Isnt_Taken/66q0O.jpg
Thanks! Lets get it on the wiki [EDIT: Done!]
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind next time. I was mainly concerned about messing with my edge loops, but maybe I shouldn't worry about it so much. I ended up just changing the shape of the bracer, and it looks fine. I should stop trying to avoid problems and just solve them in the future though :poly124:
I think it looks better with the quad bracers than the triangular ones in the end anyways. Here's the untextured low poly:
Can you post your normal map?
And here's the UVs:
I don't but there is a script called welder 2.0.
http://www.wtv3d.org/t14211-welder-20-3ds-max-plugin
You can try something like this, I've used a 48 sided cylinder, but I think you can use less subdivisions too.
He also could have fixed it with an extra edge loop too, at least that's what it looks like.
Another thing is the edges of his model are too tight.]
It has a video for making welds with splines attached to it too.
You mean in here?
Well, what I meant is to change the routing of the edges, that's why I made the "zoomed" picture.
I didn't really mean you, I meant the guy with the original question. I wasn't able to see your unsmoothed mesh.
In fact I showed you his unsmoothed mesh. Just to know if I understood what you meant by "add an extra edge loop".
Sorry. This is getting confusing.
Yes I saw his, and was referring to him originally. I was saying I didn't see your low poly to see how you did it compared to his, I read what you wrote, but I was trying to say I wanted to see the low poly of yours.
Sorry for the confusion.
Also, I have never been the best at understanding the Moar Geo thing, why not just do it with a lower poly count so it's less work when you're ready to bake? You get some issues but I don't think it's a big enough pinch if you are short on time in say a production scenario. Or at least saving time removing tons of loops to get he circular part game res.
The second set has different topology and you can see it requires a small amount of manual editing but has no issues. (as far as I can tell)
If I am wrong PLEASE correct me.
The only problem with yours is that have to look at the reference, it have a very circular shape at the bottom.
In this case I tried to reduce his poly count a bit, but as I said, and as you showed, it can be done with less sides too.
Some times less geometry can cause pinching, because it have difficulty to retain the desired shape, especially if it's curved, so it's better to start high than manually adding edges, is it possible in some cases, but not that fun.
Do you have any advice as to when it's good to use more geo, I realize that's a somewhat vague question, but I mean I know sometimes you dont go and make something with 6 sided cylinders but I mean once you start passing 30 edges or so, since you have to plan that out. I just want to know other peoples workflow a little better, so that I can benefit from it. If you could give an example (besides this shape) where you've used it and why that would be cool:)
And for what it's worth I tried to make it like the ref, not that it really matters.
http://area.autodesk.com/tutorials/inorganic_modeling_fundamentals_part_3
Opps these may already be on here, from the sounds of things they started here then made there way to the Area :poly122:
Not that I'm an expert, I'm here for the same reason, learn new techniques.
This example is something I've found myself the need to use more geometry than usual:
Even with 24 sides I couldn't get a smooth result, near the hole I still get pinching, it can be fixed adding two more edges, but it's easier to start high:
Well, I'm always open to find better ways of doing hard surface modelling, so guys, don't be shy
Any help???
__________________________________________________________
FIGURED IT OUT! I oughta have some of you slap me. This was easy, can't believe I didn't think of this sooner :poly117:
Anywho, made a write up incase anyone ever sees this and wants to know :poly142:
How can i bend the flat one into the circle in Maya?
Anyone know how to make a Plane from flat to cylinder? Or a plane bend? In Maya
1. choose the flat mesh
2. go to animation > create deforms > Nonelinear > bend
3. Rotate the "Bend" Line so it sits flat with the mesh
4. click on the curvature and play around with the numbers to fit it around in a circle (Usually it's a PI, 3,1415 so it fits around perfectly)
if you need a deeper understanding of environment modeling like this..
Look in "Modular Environment Design" presentation by Kevin Johnstone (Epic Games)
(there you find a method of how bend modular elements - and understand technique)
after you can see "The Fountain - High Res Modeling" video tutorial
it perfectly explains how to split the architecture into modules - and model it
this should answer most questions
ps. after you can just learn other "environment modeling" technics
and be sure to look "environment modeling" section on polycount wiki
Sub D wire frame, Sub D model, low poly wireframe.