Hey guys. this is a common problem for me, using Blender. I want to round off the end of this object (see red line). Is there an easy way to achieve a nice curve?
chamfer the edge and pull the center verts out a bit is what i'd prolly do, those 2edges real close together are going to be a pain to smooth correctly though, might want to revise the topology there
I can't speak to how you would do this in blender, or the context of the shape (directly dictating the size/width of the edge). But here is how i would do it in max. If it helps at all
Starting from where you did, I did the following:
Delete all capping faces.
Set working pivot (does blender have one?) to the middle vert on the bottom.
Extrude the edges on the side by rotating a few times.
Symmetry.
Scale all faces that should be planer on the local axis.
So, I've been trying to inch my self back into sub-d modeling again and one of the things I've been doing is just going through this thread trying to experiment with the situations etc.
And I found this helmet that I wanted to practice on
I tried a few methods for a while and the best that I've found for myself was to start from a quadrified cube. Now I feel like that it's extremely hard to keep the same roundness while matching the shape and simultaneously with the lack of geo I think it's inevitable in my method to make this without pinching when it comes to sub dividing.
So I was wondering where people would start off with on this model such as a plane and then bending? I guess I need to continue to tackle this model but I feel like almost anywhere I add an edgeloop pinching will occur in which case I need more geo but with more geo I "feel" like matching it to the reference would be extremely tedious.
sometimes with objects that have a lot of curves occurring in more than one dimension, it's a better idea to start with quad stripping than with any primitive at all. start by defining all major curve profiles with quad strips. then start connecting the strips, eventually working towards filling the holes in-between.
sometimes with objects that have a lot of curves occurring in more than one dimension, it's a better idea to start with quad stripping than with any primitive at all. start by defining all major curve profiles with quad strips. then start connecting the strips, eventually working towards filling the holes in-between.
That's actually a really good idea to nail those unique shapes / curves early in.. I always do this by instinct on planar like objects but really this is a universal method. Kind of wish I started with this method than the quadrified cube but def will be applying this to future projects.
The shell modifier also helps for this kinda stuff ..
/captain obvious, sorry
Thanks actually for being the "Captain obvious" I was collapsing a shell modifier way to soon in the modeling process when I began and started to model specifics when I wasn't even done with getting the curvature down
Anyways here's just an update thanks for the help / guidance you guys gave in here and in hangouts.
If you only want to bake a normalmap out of it you can also create the tire profile with floating geometry.
Maybe you need to soften the edges of the tire profile a bit to get a nicer transition on the normalmap .
And don´t be shy with edgeloops when you create highpoly objects. If you need more geometry to add detail, then use more geometry!
Even if your highpoly tire has 1.000.000 polygons while subdivided. No one cares about it as long as the baked result looks good and clean.
If you only want to bake a normalmap out of it you can also create the tire profile with floating geometry.
Maybe you need to soften the edges of the tire profile a bit to get a nicer transition on the normalmap .
And don´t be shy with edgeloops when you create highpoly objects. If you need more geometry to add detail, then use more geometry!
Even if your highpoly tire has 1.000.000 polygons while subdivided. No one cares about it as long as the baked result looks good and clean.
Definitely! Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try this again and come back!
No need to model it flat now...you already have it. Take one ring from the wheel part and the tread that will fit in there and just make those a single piece. (See pic)
Keep the center at the center of the wheel and rotate copies around when done and weld. You may have to use multiple rings or treads depending on how they fit/overlap and make sure you have divided the wheel evenly so you know how many copies you'll need.
Hey guys, i really hope we can all solve this one. Basically what we have here is one large curve with a wide filet edge, being cut off by another curve in the opposite direction, and the new edge created is a smaller filet.
i have also added my initial go at it, but i am not satisfied with my results
i really hope im just stupid and cant find the option, but is it possible in max for the move, scale, rotate gizmos to be relative to surface normal? im trying to scale a face that is angled to the XY plane but its really tedious doing it and then correcting the mistakes made due to the angle. thanks alot
I am trying to make a scifi submachine gun and it's really kicking my butt right now.
I cant figure out how to add supporting geo without ruining the overall silhouette of this grip.
I want that "knub" in the front to be as tight as possible because there is going to be a screw on there. No matter where I put my supporting edges, Im either getting pinching or blochy white spots that will show up on my normal maps.
any ideas?
I think your problem is that you are focusing too much on the side view port. If i had to guess, you created it form a plane/subdivided box maybe, and traced around the objects silhouette.
If the above is your reference, Then my advice would be: Side profile looks great! The rest, Not so much. That's the danger in looking through the orthographic view ports too much. One of the trickiest parts of 3d is that....its. .... 3d It needs to look good in all 3 dimensions, in unison. Not just one.
I'll take a stab at modeling the reference, Just for funzies. But if that isn't quite your ref, Like EQ may suspect, I'd agree with him. Post a more accurate reference to your model.
I have a lurking suspicion as well that you may be using multiple refs from multiple guns to make a weapon that doesn't currently exist. If that is the case, I would highly recommend you single out one solid ref, or piece of concept art to go by. In the early days of modeling is way to easy to cut corners and call it "creative freedom" because your so lax about your references.
But this is how you model dem shapes, Not how you manage dem projects, So I'll STFU and try to model this
I did a similar one a while back, maybe it helps.
And I personally for grips like that, like to start off with a plane in sideview, extrude it.
Then add a very big chamfer on both sides, then you look at some reference how curved the side is, add a loop there and bring that out as needed.
And then just tweak the shape from all sides.
Part at the back:
Take a cylinder, rotate it in place, make a duplicate(hide it for now) match up the segments with the main "body", then cut it out the intersection or use a boolean.
Now unhide the duplicate, and then just bridge/connect everything together.
triangle thing:
Just cut out the shape, extrude it, and then it's a lot of tweaking
Cylinders sticking out:
Again, just cut it out, add segments, pull it out (like a half 8 sided cylinder).
That was atleast my approach, but to be honest, if you are having trouble with a grip like that, I wouldn't really suggest doing a m4 receiver (the grip was actually really easy compared to the parts you circled).
Anyway don't get a heart-attack, it's some messy wires, but it works, well sort off, it can always be better.
everyone can do that, it's just a bit of practice and persistence.
I would have said the same a couple of months ago, and in reality, it looks more complicated then it is, it's just a lot of buildup, and adding things.
If you do make it, and run into trouble, make sure to post it, and if you are really stuck, give me a pm, I always have a ton of incremental saves, I'll send them over and you can have a look at how I build those up.
Everyone has his own way, and there isn't a 1 right way to model something, but maybe it will help.
everyone can do that, it's just a bit of practice and persistence.
I would have said the same a couple of months ago, and in reality, it looks more complicated then it is, it's just a lot of buildup, and adding things.
If you do make it, and run into trouble, make sure to post it, and if you are really stuck, give me a pm, I always have a ton of incremental saves, I'll send them over and you can have a look at how I build those up.
Everyone has his own way, and there isn't a 1 right way to model something, but maybe it will help.
thank you. I really appreciate that! Ill send you a PM if i run into any snags.
I feel like making the m4 or m16 would be "easier" since there is alot more reference material online whereas the gun I wanted to make I just drew some sketches. idk..maybe just me? lol
Hello, I'm new to this forum and have been practicing low poly 3D modelling for a few months. I started to study hard surface modelling just a few weeks ago and I have been encountering an issue with a curved face with a sharp edge in on the top,bottom or between its face..My problem here is I keep getting seam lines or highlighted edges. The only solution I found out to fix it is by making a cylinder and slicing it up. I wonder if there is a right topology or way to do this...
I am trying to make an iron man head...I have been having problems with the green circled parts
hello! I'm having trouble trying to figure out a way to model the hair on my character. It's in a rather cartoony style, so I'm opting to go for a solid hair style instead of strips. However, i don't know how i am going to do edge loops for it and enable myself to add perhaps more "tendrils" of hair asymmetrically.
Here's what I have so far. Outlined in red is the geometry i'd like to add in, but i have no idea how. I kind of would like all the big bunches of hair to almost act as individuals, only connected at an indent, if that makes any sense.
Here's the character I'm trying to model. If there's a similar way to model the cheek fluff, I'd love to know! Thank you.
Also, one question. Is it alright to use triangles to make points of the hair like that? I know using tris isn't HORRIBLE OMG, but if there's a better way of modelling points, especially if i wanted to subdivide it, i'd like to know.
For the iron man, try modelling the face flat and using bend modifier on top of the turbo smooth, if that makes sense. and some of the areas circled have seams on all sides, so there really shouldn't be a problem.
And as for the hair, why not have each lock of hair as a separate object?
Hello, I'm new to this forum and have been practicing low poly 3D modelling for a few months. I started to study hard surface modelling just a few weeks ago and I have been encountering an issue with a curved face with a sharp edge in on the top,bottom or between its face..My problem here is I keep getting seam lines or highlighted edges. The only solution I found out to fix it is by making a cylinder and slicing it up. I wonder if there is a right topology or way to do this...
I am trying to make an iron man head...I have been having problems with the green circled parts
Hah, funny coincidence, I just started making it myself. Here's the wires for it, maybe it helps.
Some parts are pinching a little bit, but it's a fairly small amount and it works for me.
Hey there Polycount! So I am trying to make a foot of a turret and I am running into deformation and pinching problems. I have tried multiple "solutions" but I keep getting deformation or pinching. Am I doing it wrong or would I have to settle for the solution with the lowest deformation?
Oh, yes I know I might need to tighten up the support edges a bit.
I gave this a shot, And was surprised how much harder it was than i thought it would be. To add insult to injury, I know I've seen it done in this thread 100 times -__-
I would say the key is to, You guessed it, add more Geo. But I feel like perna will show up and do it with hexagon :poly124:
Maybe someone will show up with a better method, But here's what I got:
@cytric, i think you could simply do something like this, really isn't hard
obviously refine it and add more geo where needed, simplest way of tackling it would be to shift drag edges into position imo
I did that in 2 minutes so I wasn't taking baking results into account. I was just showing you an edgeflow, which is the point of this thread. Thought you could figure out the rest.
I did that in 2 minutes so I wasn't taking baking results into account. I was just showing you an edgeflow, which is the point of this thread. Thought you could figure out the rest.
But for good measure... Happy now, Mr?
I didnt mean it in a harsh way, I was just asking for future reference for myself lol
I gave this a shot, And was surprised how much harder it was than i thought it would be. To add insult to injury, I know I've seen it done in this thread 100 times -__-
I would say the key is to, You guessed it, add more Geo. But I feel like perna will show up and do it with hexagon :poly124:
Maybe someone will show up with a better method, But here's what I got:
Thanks a lot, s620ex1! I changed the design a little bit but your solution still worked perfectly!
I've been known to go by s6, If that helps you next time
And just a heads up for that model Tyrone, The edges you have pictured there are quite tight and may not bake much information to the normal map. Depending how large that object is going to end up in game, They may not render much of anything.
What are you posting those pictures for? Why would I delete those edges? I have them there to hold up the shape... Deleting them would just result in rounded curves which is not what the helmet looks like.
And in the second pic, I've already tried that and even though it's cleaner it causes more pinching.
Replies
Starting from where you did, I did the following:
Delete all capping faces.
Set working pivot (does blender have one?) to the middle vert on the bottom.
Extrude the edges on the side by rotating a few times.
Symmetry.
Scale all faces that should be planer on the local axis.
Inset.
Re run a couple edges.
Add loops if desired.
sometimes with objects that have a lot of curves occurring in more than one dimension, it's a better idea to start with quad stripping than with any primitive at all. start by defining all major curve profiles with quad strips. then start connecting the strips, eventually working towards filling the holes in-between.
That's actually a really good idea to nail those unique shapes / curves early in.. I always do this by instinct on planar like objects but really this is a universal method. Kind of wish I started with this method than the quadrified cube but def will be applying this to future projects.
Thanks actually for being the "Captain obvious" I was collapsing a shell modifier way to soon in the modeling process when I began and started to model specifics when I wasn't even done with getting the curvature down
Anyways here's just an update thanks for the help / guidance you guys gave in here and in hangouts.
I'm Seriously considering making a thread for daily modeling a challenges. But i wouldn't be man enough to keep it floating day in an day out. Meh....
Trying to make the rubber for a tire of a HEMTT, but I want it to be one shape like real life rather than how I have done it, in two pieces.
Set of images of references:
This is what I had:
Looks really off shape but I hope to fix this by starting afresh! Thanks a ton guys, this thread is so helpful
Maybe you need to soften the edges of the tire profile a bit to get a nicer transition on the normalmap
And don´t be shy with edgeloops when you create highpoly objects. If you need more geometry to add detail, then use more geometry!
Even if your highpoly tire has 1.000.000 polygons while subdivided. No one cares about it as long as the baked result looks good and clean.
I gave it a go, but I will have another stab at making it on a flat plane
Definitely! Thanks for the tips guys, I'll try this again and come back!
Keep the center at the center of the wheel and rotate copies around when done and weld. You may have to use multiple rings or treads depending on how they fit/overlap and make sure you have divided the wheel evenly so you know how many copies you'll need.
i have also added my initial go at it, but i am not satisfied with my results
Edit:
this is what i needed it for today
still needs texturing and animation, but for 2 hours im good for today
I love these animated gifs many of you are making, thank you they are fantastic.
I don't want to start maya vs max but how are you guys getting on with Maya's new modelling tools?
I cant figure out how to add supporting geo without ruining the overall silhouette of this grip.
I want that "knub" in the front to be as tight as possible because there is going to be a screw on there. No matter where I put my supporting edges, Im either getting pinching or blochy white spots that will show up on my normal maps.
any ideas?
If the above is your reference, Then my advice would be: Side profile looks great! The rest, Not so much. That's the danger in looking through the orthographic view ports too much. One of the trickiest parts of 3d is that....its. .... 3d
I'll take a stab at modeling the reference, Just for funzies. But if that isn't quite your ref, Like EQ may suspect, I'd agree with him. Post a more accurate reference to your model.
I have a lurking suspicion as well that you may be using multiple refs from multiple guns to make a weapon that doesn't currently exist. If that is the case, I would highly recommend you single out one solid ref, or piece of concept art to go by. In the early days of modeling is way to easy to cut corners and call it "creative freedom" because your so lax about your references.
But this is how you model dem shapes, Not how you manage dem projects, So I'll STFU and try to model this
And I personally for grips like that, like to start off with a plane in sideview, extrude it.
Then add a very big chamfer on both sides, then you look at some reference how curved the side is, add a loop there and bring that out as needed.
And then just tweak the shape from all sides.
Also, FFD modifiers are a helpfull tool.
I guess Im just going to make an m16.
How would I go about making these details on the receiver?
would that be floating geo? or would I carve that out of the base mesh?
Take a cylinder, rotate it in place, make a duplicate(hide it for now) match up the segments with the main "body", then cut it out the intersection or use a boolean.
Now unhide the duplicate, and then just bridge/connect everything together.
triangle thing:
Just cut out the shape, extrude it, and then it's a lot of tweaking
Cylinders sticking out:
Again, just cut it out, add segments, pull it out (like a half 8 sided cylinder).
That was atleast my approach, but to be honest, if you are having trouble with a grip like that, I wouldn't really suggest doing a m4 receiver (the grip was actually really easy compared to the parts you circled).
Anyway don't get a heart-attack, it's some messy wires, but it works, well sort off, it can always be better.
if you are interested in the result this gave me:
http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120254
shame I cant do that lol that looks extremely complicated
I would have said the same a couple of months ago, and in reality, it looks more complicated then it is, it's just a lot of buildup, and adding things.
If you do make it, and run into trouble, make sure to post it, and if you are really stuck, give me a pm, I always have a ton of incremental saves, I'll send them over and you can have a look at how I build those up.
Everyone has his own way, and there isn't a 1 right way to model something, but maybe it will help.
thank you. I really appreciate that! Ill send you a PM if i run into any snags.
I feel like making the m4 or m16 would be "easier" since there is alot more reference material online whereas the gun I wanted to make I just drew some sketches. idk..maybe just me? lol
fwiw
I fucked the proportions and angle the grip intersected with square portion. But w/e. was good practice.
@Joeriv: It's always fun looking back on a finished model and laughing at the wires. :poly124:
I am trying to make an iron man head...I have been having problems with the green circled parts
Here's what I have so far. Outlined in red is the geometry i'd like to add in, but i have no idea how. I kind of would like all the big bunches of hair to almost act as individuals, only connected at an indent, if that makes any sense.
Here's the character I'm trying to model. If there's a similar way to model the cheek fluff, I'd love to know! Thank you.
Also, one question. Is it alright to use triangles to make points of the hair like that? I know using tris isn't HORRIBLE OMG, but if there's a better way of modelling points, especially if i wanted to subdivide it, i'd like to know.
And as for the hair, why not have each lock of hair as a separate object?
Some parts are pinching a little bit, but it's a fairly small amount and it works for me.
Oh, yes I know I might need to tighten up the support edges a bit.
Thanks in advance
I would say the key is to, You guessed it, add more Geo. But I feel like perna will show up and do it with hexagon :poly124:
Maybe someone will show up with a better method, But here's what I got:
@cytric, i think you could simply do something like this, really isn't hard
obviously refine it and add more geo where needed, simplest way of tackling it would be to shift drag edges into position imo
Cipher
This part is the front "cover" of the slide on a m1911
But for good measure... Happy now, Mr?
I didnt mean it in a harsh way, I was just asking for future reference for myself lol
Thanks a lot, s620ex1! I changed the design a little bit but your solution still worked perfectly!
Here are my results
Much love, man
i think its actually a very easy apoach you got there.
I had seen this approach before but never really tried it.
So thanks for making me test it out. My test to this approach only took a min or two . I can post a tut if you like.
You still have MAJOR pinching going on there, add a high spec material and you will see.
You need to double the amount of sides your base cylinder has for that to work.
More geo buddy!
And just a heads up for that model Tyrone, The edges you have pictured there are quite tight and may not bake much information to the normal map. Depending how large that object is going to end up in game, They may not render much of anything.
And in the second pic, I've already tried that and even though it's cleaner it causes more pinching.