For Subdivision modelling, all 3 will smooth fine with proper support loops. For low poly, the bottom two are better since it avoids long thin triangles converging on a single point.
It's also better because you save a whole(!) vertex. While it won't really matter in the long run if it's just a single vert, it'll still be seen as bad modeling and only takes a few seconds to change anyway. In modo if I just leave the cap as a n-gon, it'll triangulate properly anyway.
But anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I Believe having all quads like the last HP set is ideal for UVs and just keeping all quads in general. Some LPs options at the bottom. I might bake it, cause i have nothing better to do
Any of the fine options are okay, you don't need all quads on a highpoly, or to UV a highpoly model. Unless you are using something like xnormal that requires only quads and tris on your highpoly, but you can fix that with one button later.
Yeah. I'd never, And have never, done all quads like that. just waste of density while your working on the HP model. Just messing around with that bolt sense I've never made one Good to know xnormal is a fan of quads though. I didn't know that.
I know its in this thread, But i can't find it for the life of me. Can someone go over the best way to make a perfect (flat head drive) screw head? I've got something Ok. And have had a few different methods work, But my problem is how sharp they are. i can seem to get one with wider edges once you zoom out from it. Cause you need the side count to support the shape, But once its enough loops to support the geo without adding any loops, The edges are too sharp.... If that makes sense. Thanks
I know its in this thread, But i can't find it for the life of me. Can someone go over the best way to make a perfect (flat head drive) screw head? I've got something Ok. And have had a few different methods work, But my problem is how sharp they are. i can seem to get one with wider edges once you zoom out from it. Cause you need the side count to support the shape, But once its enough loops to support the geo without adding any loops, The edges are too sharp.... If that makes sense. Thanks
I guess it depends where the screw is going to the applied to.
There are 3 types of bolts here. Loosely considering the top left of that locking piece that looks like a backwards J the same as the ones alone the frame. So far the bolt i have works okish for the largest bolt there. But I'd like it even wider edged.
I'm considering just zbrushing it and include some "tooling" marks on them while I'm at it.
That's awesome man! I tried a few things starting with a TS cube, but it always kind of an off circle. But with your idea of flattening, i could spherify the closest loops to the edge, and make it a perfect circle. I also removed one more loop from it and made the extrude a bit deeper.
Huge help Pedro! Thanks a lot for taking the time man
Edit: Ah yeah. So much better than before Gonna have to remake those locking pieces they are on now. Think those edges are a bit to tight and those shapes are really boring. Also have to make a few more variance of this screw for those others. Thanks again. Much appreciated.
Working on the grip for this gun i had quite a time figuring out how i was going to model it, and i think i reached a nice solution, But i was going to ask if there was a more effective way of going about it (directed mainly at the diamond shapes)
So i started with a base grip, with just the major shape and curves of the piece. Then based on the topology of the base i modeled the insetted bits on a flat plane with the same boundary points, so i could just morph the piece to the base grip shape then weld. But i wasn't able to make a nice border around the diamonds while putting them above the grip, So i deleted some faces and put the diamonds behind the grip piece. It looks fair to me, But i wanted to see if you guys would have done it differently, or if you think I'll have issues with baking. Figured I'd throw this out here while i finish up the HP and get a yay or nay before i get into doing the LP and UV's so i can fix it before i bake, if need be.
Thanks in advance guys. If i need to stfu in here and make my own thread, let me know.
Hi guys...
So, I'm currently trying to improve my hard surface sub-d modelling in Maya. I'm working on a motorcycle and I'm really stuck with the tyre treads. It is a fairly simple pattern, but I just can't cut it into the tyre without destroying the curve!
Here's the ref:
Well. I tried. And failed I would say have more and evenly spaced geo, But yours looks pretty good flat. So if i were going to do it (in maya especialy) i would do A. Floats B. NURBS.
I'd stear a lot lot harder towards floats though, you can poly model them, and they will bake well. And be quicker/easier.
Personally, I think zbrushing this would be cool as hell. Given the simple wood work, zbrush's tools would make this a breeze (especially for the radial symmetric stuff). I might speed sculpt a set of these tonight for fun
For sub D, If i were to tackle it in max, its hard to say anything but "do it". I mean, you have a decent block out. You just need to keep modeling it. Unless there is a certain spot you are having trouble with? if you can post the reference without geo in front of it maybe someone will model it out.
Hey guys, having trouble modeling shapes into cylinders without adding creases to the cylinders. Here's some screen shots. I tried adding more geo as well as manually adjusting some of the lines, which helped, but a bit of creases remain.
Hey guys, having trouble modeling shapes into cylinders without adding creases to the cylinders. Here's some screen shots. I tried adding more geo as well as manually adjusting some of the lines, which helped, but a bit of creases remain.
All of the edges in your cylinder must be equidistant from each other. Notice how some of the edges on the cylinder part are futher from each other, and some are closer to each other.
Create the supporting geo like you have. Then select all of the edges that create the creased cylinder. Find the amount of edges that are in the cylinder, should be listed in your 3D package. Create a new cylinder with that exact number of sides. Attach new cylinder to mesh, bridge from supporting edges to new cylinder, clean up. Profit!
okay hey hi guys, I am kinda stuck with a really basic thing here:
What is the best way to model this knight?
Thanks a lot! I need advices on that one.
Ok maybe not the best way but what i could manage in 2.5 hrs. My advice would be to nail the basic shape first, pay attention to edge flow and everything else will fall into place.You can find the obj file here,, hope it helps http://www.filedropper.com/knight
[IMG][/img][IMG][/img]
[IMG][/img]
Thanks for posting that vid! I never knew what "show end result" was, and seeing you use it back and forth looked pretty handy so now i got it hot keyed Thanks man. And good work on the vid. Turned out smooth.
NOTE: I screwed up the patterning so they don't line up right, but the process is sound.
Model the tread gash straight across the tyre surface. Just do one section. Looking at some other reference for that tyre model there are 10 harley logos around the edge, making them spaced 36 degrees apart. So it should be that one logo and 2 tread gashes with space to either side fit in 1/10 of a circle. Duplicate your piece 10 times and rotate it around the hub, then weld the edges. Select the inner edges of the whole tyre, and the next few out where the curve in the gash is less. Turn on and adjust soft selection. Rotate so the inner edge loops line up with the outer ones which haven't rotated (important for next step)
Mirror that half, then rotate your new half by 12 degrees or so (1/3 of 36) so the tread on one side alternates with gaps on the other. Weld the center verts and turbosmooth.
Did not really want to make a new thread. But anybody got great tips where i could find a tutorial for Foliage? I know this one should be simple. But im still learning and i want to see how others do it before implying my own ideas.
@respawn, if that dodecahedron isn't perfectly spherical, you can subdivide a sphere, then scale the dodecahedron up inside the sphere (which is on the background layer) with constrain to background turned on. Senecas script package also has a spherize script I believe, can't check at the moment due to pc trouble (ssd died). If the above isn't clear there's a video that demonstrates the techniques (I hyperlinked it but polycount embedded the video anyway..)
This has been bugging me for a good few hours now. I (think) i know the tolls to be doing this but its just not working for me, hoping there is an easy solution.
This is what i have tried:
- cylinder
- helix
- convert helix to spline
- sweep
- use custom selection
- AJSODHAOUIDH9HDAHFI9FNHSIFNIUPFIP
(in other words)
When i use my custom selection which is made from a spline the scale is crazy big and i cant change that atall.
Replies
But anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I Believe having all quads like the last HP set is ideal for UVs and just keeping all quads in general. Some LPs options at the bottom. I might bake it, cause i have nothing better to do
There are 3 types of bolts here. Loosely considering the top left of that locking piece that looks like a backwards J the same as the ones alone the frame. So far the bolt i have works okish for the largest bolt there. But I'd like it even wider edged.
I'm considering just zbrushing it and include some "tooling" marks on them while I'm at it.
File> http://edgesize.com/crap/ScrewMe.7z
Huge help Pedro! Thanks a lot for taking the time man
Edit: Ah yeah. So much better than before
Working on the grip for this gun i had quite a time figuring out how i was going to model it, and i think i reached a nice solution, But i was going to ask if there was a more effective way of going about it (directed mainly at the diamond shapes)
So i started with a base grip, with just the major shape and curves of the piece. Then based on the topology of the base i modeled the insetted bits on a flat plane with the same boundary points, so i could just morph the piece to the base grip shape then weld. But i wasn't able to make a nice border around the diamonds while putting them above the grip, So i deleted some faces and put the diamonds behind the grip piece. It looks fair to me, But i wanted to see if you guys would have done it differently, or if you think I'll have issues with baking. Figured I'd throw this out here while i finish up the HP and get a yay or nay before i get into doing the LP and UV's so i can fix it before i bake, if need be.
Thanks in advance guys. If i need to stfu in here and make my own thread, let me know.
So, I'm currently trying to improve my hard surface sub-d modelling in Maya. I'm working on a motorcycle and I'm really stuck with the tyre treads. It is a fairly simple pattern, but I just can't cut it into the tyre without destroying the curve!
Here's the ref:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I originally had this done with floaters, but decided I want to try and model these in:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I've also made several attempts at modelling the shape flat and then bending it:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
But that made ugly creases everywhere too.
Does anyone know how I can tackle this issue? Thanks in advance!
I'd stear a lot lot harder towards floats though, you can poly model them, and they will bake well. And be quicker/easier.
okay hey hi guys, I am kinda stuck with a really basic thing here:
What is the best way to model this knight?
Thanks a lot! I need advices on that one.
For sub D, If i were to tackle it in max, its hard to say anything but "do it". I mean, you have a decent block out. You just need to keep modeling it. Unless there is a certain spot you are having trouble with? if you can post the reference without geo in front of it maybe someone will model it out.
I'd like to make it by myself, otherwise it would be pointless for me, but give it a try if you want of course!
All of the edges in your cylinder must be equidistant from each other. Notice how some of the edges on the cylinder part are futher from each other, and some are closer to each other.
Create the supporting geo like you have. Then select all of the edges that create the creased cylinder. Find the amount of edges that are in the cylinder, should be listed in your 3D package. Create a new cylinder with that exact number of sides. Attach new cylinder to mesh, bridge from supporting edges to new cylinder, clean up. Profit!
@Quack! Thanks, I'll try that.
Isn´t there a tutorial inside 3dsmax for chess pieces? Might be worth to look at.
[IMG][/img]
[IMG][/img]
You've done this with Maya?
I would have loved to see how you made it
Links for the files
http://www.edgesize.com/crap/Help_for_liamdes.obj
http://www.edgesize.com/crap/Help_for_liamdes.max
I actually recorded the modeling process for this shape fix. I'm compressing the video and will put it here when it's done uploading.
Edit > Uploaded.
Edit: Thanks again Pedro! That video was really helpful. I learned quite a bit.
NOTE: I screwed up the patterning so they don't line up right, but the process is sound.
Model the tread gash straight across the tyre surface. Just do one section. Looking at some other reference for that tyre model there are 10 harley logos around the edge, making them spaced 36 degrees apart. So it should be that one logo and 2 tread gashes with space to either side fit in 1/10 of a circle. Duplicate your piece 10 times and rotate it around the hub, then weld the edges. Select the inner edges of the whole tyre, and the next few out where the curve in the gash is less. Turn on and adjust soft selection. Rotate so the inner edge loops line up with the outer ones which haven't rotated (important for next step)
Mirror that half, then rotate your new half by 12 degrees or so (1/3 of 36) so the tread on one side alternates with gaps on the other. Weld the center verts and turbosmooth.
Any ideas? So far all I got is creating a tessellated sphere with 1 subdiv
Thanks in Advance!
Unless this is about practice, ofcourse, in which case: No clue, actually! Let us know how you end up doing it.
edit: just checked, Wings does have a dodecahedron primitive.
Unfortunately it is about practice, I'm hoping to learn something new by getting out of my comfort zone and modeling difficult shapes :P
this is a primitive. no point in modeling a primitive. Its like you saying you will model a cylinder or a box from scratch...
It's a primitive in Max, yes, but not in modo (as far as I know)
it's not a perfect dodecahedron, but it's close enough for now.
Cube primitive -> slice
Move & scale
Smooth the crap out of it
voila!
[SKETCHFAB]fI6rGU8TkhddpVhZ9VLrIXfYEfK[/SKETCHFAB]
work
i mainly use max at work, so essesntially i havent used modo for over a year and a half now lol
I need to get back to it and do some personal illustrations again
[ame="
relevant part is at ~2min. Ignore if that's not what's inaccurate about it :P
This is what i have tried:
- cylinder
- helix
- convert helix to spline
- sweep
- use custom selection
- AJSODHAOUIDH9HDAHFI9FNHSIFNIUPFIP
(in other words)
When i use my custom selection which is made from a spline the scale is crazy big and i cant change that atall.
Make a cylinder, add some height segments (might have to play around with this quite a bit to get the right number).
Put a twist modifier on it.
Select one of the loops, extrude it (height of 0, just some width), and then you'll have the twisted loop of poly's that you can work with.