Trying to go outside my comfort zone and model this bad boy:
I am really struggling with the top half as it is an odd shape to nail down. Every attempt I make I fail miserably. If anyone could share any tips or advice where to start I would be extremely grateful. Thanks!
Here's what I have so far. Basic blockout on the left and the right mesh is my current progress. What I have is much better than when I first started yesterday.
Looks fine so far to me. It's easy to get discouraged when you first start out a piece, Cause it doesn't look epic sauce right out of the gate, But, you gotta be patient and just work at it. Piece seems fine so far, Just keep developing and refining. it will all come together
I would of blocked that out a lot more, that concept has some vague lines that need to be solved before you can really start modeling. I'd also block out what parts of the model are going to be seperate meshes, like each dark gray area. You model already doesn't match the concept.
Here's a possible solution for the first pinching. It might not look like your reference here, but the geo is tweak-friendly if you want thinner or sharper shapes.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask this. I'm just starting to get into high poly modeling, but im such a noob.
Anyway. Having a pinching problem here where there are poles. How do i go about this? If i add vertical edgeloops it terminates the problem, but then i have creases up and down my model. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Dumb question, Im making this nerf reflex gun for shits n giggles, and it's actually coming out pretty well. My goal with this project is to learn scifi type modeling/texturing. Gonna make this look realistic as possible.
The following piece I am having difficulties with, not sure if this should float or be cut into the mesh?
I've tried (and failed miserably) with booleans for this shape...
Part at the back:
Take a cylinder, rotate it in place, make a duplicate(hide it for now) match up the segments with the main "body", then cut it out the intersection or use a boolean.
Now unhide the duplicate, and then just bridge/connect everything together.
triangle thing:
Just cut out the shape, extrude it, and then it's a lot of tweaking
Cylinders sticking out:
Again, just cut it out, add segments, pull it out (like a half 8 sided cylinder).
That was atleast my approach, but to be honest, if you are having trouble with a grip like that, I wouldn't really suggest doing a m4 receiver (the grip was actually really easy compared to the parts you circled).
Anyway don't get a heart-attack, it's some messy wires, but it works, well sort off, it can always be better.
noob here.
Tried to get this to work, Im getting pinching and some wonkiness in some areas,
this is a flash hider for a nerf gun. Thank you for any help
EDIT: Im just worried about the corners on the inside, forget any topology errors I have at the top..
noob here.
Tried to get this to work, Im getting pinching and some wonkiness in some areas,
this is a flash hider for a nerf gun. Thank you for any help
EDIT: Im just worried about the corners on the inside, forget any topology errors I have at the top..
forgive me but its a 24 sided cylinder, I still need more?
Ill try it out lol
Hey man, was a pretty blunt answer but it is true! Having a lot more sides (like 42) would mean it would be easier to hold a shape that you may cut out of a cylinder like that! Hope that helps
Hey man, was a pretty blunt answer but it is true! Having a lot more sides (like 42) would mean it would be easier to hold a shape that you may cut out of a cylinder like that! Hope that helps
I didnt mean to sound blunt
Anywho I took his advice and doubled it up to 48 sided cylinder and it worked perfectly! the low poly version I've optimized to 24 sides
I didnt mean to sound blunt
Anywho I took his advice and doubled it up to 48 sided cylinder and it worked perfectly! the low poly version I've optimized to 24 sides
Awesome Can't stress enough how most cylindrical problems will be solved starting with more sides. And I wasn't talking about you tony, I was talking about hobos help
I just wonder about my topology ... so I post here to get your advices.
Generaly, I never optimize my base mesh, but when I want to add details, this become really hard. My base mesh is the first.
The second mesh was the "optimized" mesh and the third the smoothed one.
What do you think about that ? Do I do right ?
Thank you !
Hey, Shudrum. The first one is perfect. It has a nice and clean quad topology. The second one (optimised) is no good. It works just fine on a flat surface, but if it would be a more complex object with curved surfaces you would have pretty bad pinching going on. Just try to avoid having a lot of triangles when you do HP mdeling. And because you broke your nice and clean edge flow with a lot of triangles in the second mesh, that's why you have a hard time to add more details if needed.
Hi,
Sorry for bringing up such basic question, but this question has bothered me quite some times. I wonder if it's necessary to add extra support edges to simple but long pieces like the images below? Both seem fine in shaded mode, except the one with extra support edges looks more clean and tight on the edge, and less stretch to the geometry which result in a less stretch UV. But polycount wise, it seems extra support edges is a waste for such simple piece.
I know that if I model this as a straight polygon model the extra edges will be totally unnecessary. So my question is particular for Subd modeling. Thanks
Sorry for bringing up such basic question, but this question has bothered me quite some times. I wonder if it's necessary to add extra support edges to simple but long pieces like the images below? Both seem fine in shaded mode, except the one with extra support edges looks more clean and tight on the edge, and less stretch to the geometry which result in a less stretch UV. But polycount wise, it seems extra support edges is a waste for such simple piece.
I know that if I model this as a straight polygon model the extra edges will be totally unnecessary. So my question is for Subd modeling particularly. Thanks
Yes it is. Whatever gets you the results you need, in the fastest possible way, is totally OK. If you're baking normal maps, then the highpoly doesn't have to be pretty as a wireframe, it just has to bake well. That's all there is to it.
Yes it is. Whatever gets you the results you need, in the fastest possible way, is totally OK. If you're baking normal maps, then the highpoly doesn't have to be pretty as a wireframe, it just has to bake well. That's all there is to it.
Surely for a thread dedicated to helping people learn better subd skills, it's not something to be selling to people who may have fundamental misunderstandings? I know when I was more nooby, I might have taken this as something to be applied everywhere.
I don't know, that was my thought process anyway.
@seanfusion Yes, adding extra support loops is a thing people do for the reasons you said. And polycount for your high poly doesn't really matter (to a point). Personally for pieces like that I just whack a quad chamfer on the edges.
Yeah, makes sense to promote good hygiene, clean sub-d modeling methods. But the quick and dirty ways are still valuable. I think it is up to the artist to choose which tools for each situation. Learn them all, and keep learning new ones.
@ghaztehschmexeh - Yeah, just wanted to show another way of doing things. I think the double smooth is really fast and simple and for certain parts it works really well for that.
I made a quick example of different ways to do the same piece. Red is the most common, creating edge loop tension around your corners. Blue is the same as Red, but the edges are spread apart to help prevent pinching. And Black is using the double smooth technique which creates a very uniform topology with no pinching. It can end up being a much higher poly density which might be a problem as well. Also you have to add extra edge loops to keep the polygons an even density.
With this example it doesn't matter much about the pinching along the sides since the sides are flat and simple, but once you start adding more geometry in those areas pinching can become a problem.
Hey guys. Couldnt seem to get this question answered in the UDK Masters thread. Maybe someone here can help?
This deals primarily with a Maya, 3D Coat workflow.
I'm having an issue with importing FBX, but ONLY from meshes that originate from retopo in 3D Coat. I have all the correct FBX export settings, as I also have no issues with geo I create in Maya. If anyone has a clue about this, I'd really appreciate hearing about it. I've unlocked the normals, set the normals to face, smoothed the normals, checked my normals directions. Everything about the mesh looks totally correct, except for when I import to UDK, I get this:
Hey guys. Couldnt seem to get this question answered in the UDK Masters thread. Maybe someone here can help?
This deals primarily with a Maya, 3D Coat workflow.
I'm having an issue with importing FBX, but ONLY from meshes that originate from retopo in 3D Coat. I have all the correct FBX export settings, as I also have no issues with geo I create in Maya. If anyone has a clue about this, I'd really appreciate hearing about it. I've unlocked the normals, set the normals to face, smoothed the normals, checked my normals directions. Everything about the mesh looks totally correct, except for when I import to UDK, I get this:
I don't really know what the problem is but you could try converting the FBX with Autodesks FBX converter and see if that helps anything. UDK uses FBX 2012, but I think the others will work for the most part as well.
The mesh is a just a pillar so you're just not seeing the ends. The entire mesh is like this. My UV's are laid out correctly. The thing is, this happens to every mesh that comes from 3D Coat retopo. Any other mesh from Maya is fine and I export as FBX 2013. Thx guys...I'll keep looking into this.
Replies
I am really struggling with the top half as it is an odd shape to nail down. Every attempt I make I fail miserably. If anyone could share any tips or advice where to start I would be extremely grateful. Thanks!
cant seem to get this pinching to go away..
..please done say add moar geo since the receiver is completely done aside from this one part...
and here's an over all work in progress. Im not sure if the side ejection port is subdivided correcly..any input on this?
Edit: It does require marginally moar geo.
Thank you sir! This work perfectly. There's a little pinch but it's barely noticeable, especially from first person view.
Anyway. Having a pinching problem here where there are poles. How do i go about this? If i add vertical edgeloops it terminates the problem, but then i have creases up and down my model. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks Quack
Thanks in advice
The following piece I am having difficulties with, not sure if this should float or be cut into the mesh?
I've tried (and failed miserably) with booleans for this shape...
and here's the handle
Even though it may be permanently adhered, That black piece was its own object at one point. So you could treat it as such and be just fine.
@Mr. Digital
See if that helps you at all.
Tried to get this to work, Im getting pinching and some wonkiness in some areas,
this is a flash hider for a nerf gun. Thank you for any help
EDIT: Im just worried about the corners on the inside, forget any topology errors I have at the top..
More geometry.
forgive me but its a 24 sided cylinder, I still need more?
Ill try it out lol
Hey man, was a pretty blunt answer but it is true! Having a lot more sides (like 42) would mean it would be easier to hold a shape that you may cut out of a cylinder like that! Hope that helps
I didnt mean to sound blunt
Anywho I took his advice and doubled it up to 48 sided cylinder and it worked perfectly! the low poly version I've optimized to 24 sides
Awesome
I just wonder about my topology ... so I post here to get your advices.
Generaly, I never optimize my base mesh, but when I want to add details, this become really hard. My base mesh is the first.
The second mesh was the "optimized" mesh and the third the smoothed one.
What do you think about that ? Do I do right ?
Thank you !
Hey, Shudrum. The first one is perfect. It has a nice and clean quad topology. The second one (optimised) is no good. It works just fine on a flat surface, but if it would be a more complex object with curved surfaces you would have pretty bad pinching going on. Just try to avoid having a lot of triangles when you do HP mdeling. And because you broke your nice and clean edge flow with a lot of triangles in the second mesh, that's why you have a hard time to add more details if needed.
So the first one was good ... I really wonder how to make some parts of my object ... I'll learn and try, if I need help, I know where to go
Thank you !
Sorry for bringing up such basic question, but this question has bothered me quite some times. I wonder if it's necessary to add extra support edges to simple but long pieces like the images below? Both seem fine in shaded mode, except the one with extra support edges looks more clean and tight on the edge, and less stretch to the geometry which result in a less stretch UV. But polycount wise, it seems extra support edges is a waste for such simple piece.
I know that if I model this as a straight polygon model the extra edges will be totally unnecessary. So my question is particular for Subd modeling. Thanks
I know that if I model this as a straight polygon model the extra edges will be totally unnecessary. So my question is for Subd modeling particularly. Thanks
I don't know, that was my thought process anyway.
@seanfusion Yes, adding extra support loops is a thing people do for the reasons you said. And polycount for your high poly doesn't really matter (to a point). Personally for pieces like that I just whack a quad chamfer on the edges.
I made a quick example of different ways to do the same piece. Red is the most common, creating edge loop tension around your corners. Blue is the same as Red, but the edges are spread apart to help prevent pinching. And Black is using the double smooth technique which creates a very uniform topology with no pinching. It can end up being a much higher poly density which might be a problem as well. Also you have to add extra edge loops to keep the polygons an even density.
With this example it doesn't matter much about the pinching along the sides since the sides are flat and simple, but once you start adding more geometry in those areas pinching can become a problem.
This deals primarily with a Maya, 3D Coat workflow.
I'm having an issue with importing FBX, but ONLY from meshes that originate from retopo in 3D Coat. I have all the correct FBX export settings, as I also have no issues with geo I create in Maya. If anyone has a clue about this, I'd really appreciate hearing about it. I've unlocked the normals, set the normals to face, smoothed the normals, checked my normals directions. Everything about the mesh looks totally correct, except for when I import to UDK, I get this:
Have you check your UV's within UDK's asset viewer to see if they imported correctly? you could have jumbled uvs, Therefor jumbled normals.
Not a solution by any means, but it'll get you pointed in the right direction hopefully
Try to Split them up.
Alot of them are acctually repeats of eachother but smaller size.
Block it out first and then make one HP and try do Duplicate it, scaling down and fitting to the diffrent spaces.