Ok here you go. Keep in mind that you allways want your geo to be evenly spaced on curves surfaces. Generally the squarer/more even your polys are the easier it is to get a smooth surface.
Looking for some advice:
Trying to model up a barrel jacket for a Browning 1919.
I've tried the method described in Grant Warwick's "Inorganic Modeling" videos on Area, but the holes he models in a fairly small. I've also tried cutting in the holes on a plane and then bending it, but had the same result.
As you can see below I've got some pulling where the geo is higher it wants to taper up rather than be a flat surface. It also (and more critically) creates some visible lines which I've marked in pink. Finally there is a tiny bit of pinching where some edges meet together.
Looking for some advice:
I've also tried cutting in the holes on a plane and then bending it, but had the same result.
Apply a turbosmooth first then put the bend modifier on top so you won't get any creasing. If you do it the other way around, you'd surely get those funky creases.
you could move the pivot of one fan blade, placed at the beginning of the depressed area, to the center of the object(more specifically the center of the round detail in the middle of the concept) then go ahead and experiment with "x" amount to dup....until you get it right.
Apply a turbosmooth first then put the bend modifier on top so you won't get any creasing. If you do it the other way around, you'd surely get those funky creases.
Hehe cool that you got it to work Godo. When people say 'more polies' all over this thread that what they mean. For details spanning across smooth curved surface, you need the surface to have high density for it not to be deformed or pinched by details modelled in.
You could unwrap the Object which is in the form you want and then use a Script like UVW2XYZ , copy the outcome, revert back.Then you have one flat one and the desired form.
Method 2:
Start with a flat shape, copy it and bend it the way you want it.
Lets say i have created a cylinder with 8 edges.
Now i add 4 more edges on every edge.
How can i get this cylinder to be round again?
I dont want to create a new cylinder with the same amount of edges and use it as a guide, because this wont work in all situations.
Basicly what i want to know is what is the best way to get back a curve when you have added alot of edges without moving each individual vertex. doesnt have to be a cylinder.
Surely there must be some trick to this?
Soft selection could be good but it affect too many edges around on all sides.
I am using 3dsmax 2010.
There are scripts that do things similar to this but i'm not sure if you will get exact curvature like you would for a cylinder.
Most sub-d guys I know would just re-make it. If it has some crazy orientation then just cap the end and use auto grid on the cap to draw your new cylinder and then scale it.
I know that's not what you wanted to hear, hopefully someone else will have some trick, but if it were me I would re-make it.
Lets say i have created a cylinder with 8 edges.
Now i add 4 more edges on every edge.
How can i get this cylinder to be round again?
I dont want to create a new cylinder with the same amount of edges and use it as a guide, because this wont work in all situations.
Basicly what i want to know is what is the best way to get back a curve when you have added alot of edges without moving each individual vertex. doesnt have to be a cylinder.
Surely there must be some trick to this?
Soft selection could be good but it affect too many edges around on all sides.
I am using 3dsmax 2010.
There is a way in Wings3D. The circularise command. Just select the top and bottom edges, then press circularise and you have a circle. It can create circles from just about any edges that form a loop.
Lets say i have created a cylinder with 8 edges.
Now i add 4 more edges on every edge.
How can i get this cylinder to be round again?
I dont want to create a new cylinder with the same amount of edges and use it as a guide, because this wont work in all situations.
Basicly what i want to know is what is the best way to get back a curve when you have added alot of edges without moving each individual vertex. doesnt have to be a cylinder.
Surely there must be some trick to this?
Soft selection could be good but it affect too many edges around on all sides.
I am using 3dsmax 2010.
If you have a simple cylinder, you can increase the number of edges arbitrarily, and then select the top and bottom cylinder caps and use the Graphite Modeling Tools "geopoly" command, which takes an n-gon and makes it a perfect n-gon, effectively giving you two circles on either cap. it doesn't work on ring selections though, only faces.
the Graphite Tool's Edge Flow connection tool is pretty good at adding new edges that approximate the curves rather nicely. It won't give you an absolutely perfect cylinder, but it will come pretty close.
Need help with this shape, im assuming it needs more geometry, but not sure how to go about it. I have attached the obj, i just need a square extrusion at the bottom, but no matter how i do it, i get seams in my geometry.
I think the geometry itself is laid out pretty badly but i don't know why. Sorry to be a bit vague, hard to explain but the obj will show.
Rock Bottom: What software are you using? I would try to solve this with a modular approach modeling one section laid out flat and then deforming it into the shape of the handle. Adding in the unique variations at the very end.
@ Jocose: i am using 3Ds max and i think i may have found a way but i am not home to try it out so once i get home i will try and post it for others to see or come up with a better way of doing it thanks fr the reply.
You would need to do a little adjusting to get the overall curvature and 'diamonds' the way you want, but in Max here is one approach:
(#2 should read ...twist, bend, and scale)
I'm having some trouble making a crease in this part of the leg. I just can't seem to get it to work without having the polys on the bottom look messed up.
sometimes when modelling i try to think of it as 'well this is made from two peieces in real life, so i should model it with two pieces' and sometimes (like in this instance) it pays off. or you could try get creative with the cut tool. or even if your even more adventurous, sculpt or use a floater.
Hehe cool that you got it to work Godo. When people say 'more polies' all over this thread that what they mean. For details spanning across smooth curved surface, you need the surface to have high density for it not to be deformed or pinched by details modelled in.
I am no weapons expert, so I might be mistaken in assuming the little black button above the trigger to be the mag release...easiest would be, to model it without the surface details and add them later in PS...but if you want to model them, create some splines in that shape and cut along them into the mesh and extrude...
Thanks for the reply Piflik, yes that is the right part I'm talking about, I just decided to do a very detailed high poly model so I want to model everything in. Please bear with me ,I have actually never used splines so, now when you say cut along them into the mesh, is there a tool for that? or do you mean to just trace over the spline using cut on the model?
I'm guessing you want to model it in one piece, except for the pin in the middle?
For a piece of that size, I would probably do something like this:
If however you insist that it should be one piece, its pretty much the same, just with a lot more fiddling splicing them together, just remember to run a gutter loop around your chamfer to make sure it doesnt get squished or stretched by long/short edge distances around it.
Same thing as above just more sides, adding/deleting edge loops in certain areas, moving verts to fit the curve and etc, .obj example provided: Download
I could really use some direction on punching some holes in a two-sided surface:
See those eight holes in the butt of that MK14? How I do this! The method I was about to proceed with would have resulted in at least a million more lines throughout the entire model, and I'm sure that it wouldn't look very .. professional, to say the least.
What do you amazing people think?
It looks like that is a planar surface? Meaning you can just punch the holes right through it and make a mess of the topology (within reason) and it will never show up. If its not planar, then yes, you will need to add in some geometry but you shouldn't need to make it too dense, only as much as you need to get it to shade correctly.
I have a blind idea, I think I'm just going to go through with it...
This feels like one of those times where I go through a process that takes me a couple hours only to find later that it could've been done much, much quicker..
They're planar so you can just punch out the holes and clean up the mesh a bit. They won't smooth poorly. What weapon is that? Do you have another view?
Also, I'm having problems with a mesh of my own. I may post it later today
I don't usually find myself needing to ask for help with this stuff, but after about 10 tries I've had no success modeling the front of this train.
Pretty sure this is the right thread for this kind of thing.
Anyway, this is what I have so far.
And here are the reference pictures.
I haven't got any idea how to start it off, and every time I do the shape just seems to fall apart, never really coming close to what it should look like.
Since you didn't give a specific problem (I get it sometimes starting it is the hardest damn part, and no matter what it just doesnt look right) Heres a modeling order for you.
It'd be my approach. Just basic forms, no detail at all. Then once thats done and looking rightish, start cutting in detail where it needs to be. How I tackled the stock for my M4.
NOTE: Once you get the forms down how you want, dup and put the originals on a seperate layer and hide it. Then once you start cutting no matter how bad you F-it up you can just pull back a fresh dupe of the right form and start off that much further ahead. Since they're seperate pieces too, just that much easier.
Hey, I'm doing side work for an indie company and they want me to make a roman bed, I have no clue how I can go about to model the cross rope in the middle. Any ideas?
Hey, No name. I was thinking about that, but seems like an incredibly long way of going about it. If there is no other way, thats fine.. but wondering if any has another method to do it.
Replies
Trying to model up a barrel jacket for a Browning 1919.
I've tried the method described in Grant Warwick's "Inorganic Modeling" videos on Area, but the holes he models in a fairly small. I've also tried cutting in the holes on a plane and then bending it, but had the same result.
As you can see below I've got some pulling where the geo is higher it wants to taper up rather than be a flat surface. It also (and more critically) creates some visible lines which I've marked in pink. Finally there is a tiny bit of pinching where some edges meet together.
Apply a turbosmooth first then put the bend modifier on top so you won't get any creasing. If you do it the other way around, you'd surely get those funky creases.
How would I go about arranging these fan blades in the turbine without having to manually place everyone one of them?
I've tried making "X" amount of them and using the bend modifier but it morph's the shape of the blades themselves.
Is there an easy way to do this?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
-EDIT-
So after playing around with max for a bit more I was able to do it with the array tool
Thanks dude. She's looking sweet:
Reading through this and it seems to be a good method, one question though, how do you do the initial flattening of the chestplate?
Method 2:
Start with a flat shape, copy it and bend it the way you want it.
I UV-unwrap the shape and then use renderhjs' TexTools to view the UV layout in the 3D Vieport (there is a button for swapping those in Textools).
Lets say i have created a cylinder with 8 edges.
Now i add 4 more edges on every edge.
How can i get this cylinder to be round again?
I dont want to create a new cylinder with the same amount of edges and use it as a guide, because this wont work in all situations.
Basicly what i want to know is what is the best way to get back a curve when you have added alot of edges without moving each individual vertex. doesnt have to be a cylinder.
Surely there must be some trick to this?
Soft selection could be good but it affect too many edges around on all sides.
I am using 3dsmax 2010.
Most sub-d guys I know would just re-make it. If it has some crazy orientation then just cap the end and use auto grid on the cap to draw your new cylinder and then scale it.
I know that's not what you wanted to hear, hopefully someone else will have some trick, but if it were me I would re-make it.
There is a way in Wings3D. The circularise command. Just select the top and bottom edges, then press circularise and you have a circle. It can create circles from just about any edges that form a loop.
however it only works on fully closed loops so its no ideal sadly:(
jocose: Not what i wanted to hear you are right:( iam dreaming of the quick trick:) Hopefully someone have it.
If you have a simple cylinder, you can increase the number of edges arbitrarily, and then select the top and bottom cylinder caps and use the Graphite Modeling Tools "geopoly" command, which takes an n-gon and makes it a perfect n-gon, effectively giving you two circles on either cap. it doesn't work on ring selections though, only faces.
the Graphite Tool's Edge Flow connection tool is pretty good at adding new edges that approximate the curves rather nicely. It won't give you an absolutely perfect cylinder, but it will come pretty close.
I think the geometry itself is laid out pretty badly but i don't know why. Sorry to be a bit vague, hard to explain but the obj will show.
OBJ: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=YQYTB7NI
PICTURE:
Thanks a tonne guys.
Edit: Sorry just noticed a triangle leading off to a pointless edge loop that can be seen in the pic - ignore that!
http://www.chenessinc.com/brasstsuka.htm
(the twisted rope things they hard... they give me a head ache!)
You would need to do a little adjusting to get the overall curvature and 'diamonds' the way you want, but in Max here is one approach:
(#2 should read ...twist, bend, and scale)
Also evenly spaced, square polys work best.
how would i tackle this?
thanks!
thanks
For a piece of that size, I would probably do something like this:
If however you insist that it should be one piece, its pretty much the same, just with a lot more fiddling splicing them together, just remember to run a gutter loop around your chamfer to make sure it doesnt get squished or stretched by long/short edge distances around it.
Download
See those eight holes in the butt of that MK14? How I do this! The method I was about to proceed with would have resulted in at least a million more lines throughout the entire model, and I'm sure that it wouldn't look very .. professional, to say the least.
What do you amazing people think?
Also, I'm having problems with a mesh of my own. I may post it later today
Pretty sure this is the right thread for this kind of thing.
Anyway, this is what I have so far.
And here are the reference pictures.
I haven't got any idea how to start it off, and every time I do the shape just seems to fall apart, never really coming close to what it should look like.
Since you didn't give a specific problem (I get it sometimes starting it is the hardest damn part, and no matter what it just doesnt look right) Heres a modeling order for you.
It'd be my approach. Just basic forms, no detail at all. Then once thats done and looking rightish, start cutting in detail where it needs to be.
NOTE: Once you get the forms down how you want, dup and put the originals on a seperate layer and hide it. Then once you start cutting no matter how bad you F-it up you can just pull back a fresh dupe of the right form and start off that much further ahead. Since they're seperate pieces too, just that much easier.
Thanks a bunch ~