Rotated the face 45 degrees. Then had an edge loop a bit back, which I flattened(snapped) the vertices, forward, straight along the edges(non distorted edges), towards the rotated ones.
Hey rock bottom. What you need to start doing is looking at the smallest details you want to define in a mesh and then making geometry that has quads that are about the same size. Lots of people think this isn't nesccary, and its not for PLANAR surfaces (flat). However on anything curved, you have to have geoemtry that is as dense as your smallest details or you will break curvature.
So take that cylinder, subdivide it until you get lots of little squares, and then extrude your bits from the top. Its that simple, and its the standard MO for most modlers.
I´m german but nevertheless I want english translations which are not translated word by word. For technical things google translate just doesn´t help really much in most cases.Espacially translations for spanish are quite troublesome in my opinion because many words have different meanings(best example: Te quiero ->I love/like/want you if i´m not mistaken).
(But compared to the german translation the english one is perfect:poly142:)
I want to fit this pattern on the grip. Normally i would overlay this onto the normalmap in photoshop, but i want some good highpoly renders.
I copied the grip surface and made a patch out of it. Then i tryed it with patchdeform ,but he always telling me that this is a illegal patch ?
This tutorial is great. I've got it when i made my own flat mesh, but if i am trying
to use swap UV's.. to provide the flattened mesh it doesn't work well.
If the patch isnt fitting your mesh you want to deform then go into element mode and scale it up. Dont scale it at object level.
ALWAYS work at a realistic scale.. ALWAYS. check your world units and make your model is correctly sized in relation to them. your modeling tools will work better as they are often dependent on distance calculations. Same goes for Skinning. Rendering is also highly dependent on scale to achieve realistic lighting falloff, scattering and so forth. Also if you ever want to do simulations they are also highly reliant on real world scaling.
I learnt all this the hard way on my first job. Its a simple thing but you'd be amazed at how much of a difference it makes to your day to day work.. things just work better. Scenes merge seamlessly, renders look nicer.
OBlastradiusO: I take it you've been sending them detailed bug reports. I don't really have problems with it myself. it can fail when your network rendering but I just bake it down to a skin when im doing those jobs now, that or point cache it.
Something i cant figure out how to make. Its the front mesh section from a pc case, a rectangle with the 4 edges bent at 90 degrees, full of circular holes.
Yeah more geo. Once again, I didn't really get the "more geo" thing until I started to understand the concept of meshes "holding shapes"
You need to plan out your models and look at all the smallest details your going to model in. If your surface is curved in any way your going to have distortion unless your mesh can hold the shape your trying to punch in or extrude out of it.
The more its curved the worse the undesired smoothing anomalies. If you want a perfect mesh then you need evenly spaced geo that's the exact same density as the smallest detail that your putting in.
However, that's not really necessary most of the time because the smaller a detail gets the less it matters how much it distorts. If the distortion wont bake or is smaller than 1 pixel on the screen, or if you just wont see it because of the lighting on the final model. Then screw it, just let it be and move on to the next thing.
That's really all there is to it, you wrap your brain around that and your half way to mastering sub-d
TBH the way your supporting the shape could be better. a loop around the opening rather than crossing it like you have can be very beneficial. im up the walls with an Art test at the moment but once im done ill post a wire.
(my comps rendering 1080p frames atm, not so fun to model with )
Replies
It kind of is actually. I made this by modelling the top out flat and then using two simple deform modifiers to bend it.
This video is GOLD!! Thanks!
Sry Spatz. I meant your video was GOLD! Lotz of great SUB-D info!
Ouch, nice. Would be nice to see the process step-by-step. (:
Plus how can i perfectly fit this shield/grip frame to the grip? In my version i made the grip first, then extrude it, so it fits well.
Thank You!
I'm sure I used to know a way where you could extrude and rotate the faces without distorting/reducing the pipe size.
...Do you mean pretty like Mell B? :poly142:
Rotated the face 45 degrees. Then had an edge loop a bit back, which I flattened(snapped) the vertices, forward, straight along the edges(non distorted edges), towards the rotated ones.
Plus bending wouldnt have really worked, I had to join two parts of a spring together.
But now I've got a problem.. I am trying to model these shapes
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/7697/wtfpu.png
I've only modeled the basic shape (the one with the Stag Arms logo).
I can achieve only the base form but not the hole with that circle-like form! Any suggestions?
P.S.: Sorry for my English, it's not my primary language
From point to point, so its length does not change.
I'd personally just redo it, just flat O.o
that and
this?
i want the bottom to be perfectly round.
So take that cylinder, subdivide it until you get lots of little squares, and then extrude your bits from the top. Its that simple, and its the standard MO for most modlers.
Hope this helps, i posted it on my blog long time ago. You can save geometry using pentagons in the loop intersections.
http://blog.whiteblaizer.com/2009/08/otro-truquillo-subdiv/
I´m german but nevertheless I want english translations which are not translated word by word. For technical things google translate just doesn´t help really much in most cases.Espacially translations for spanish are quite troublesome in my opinion because many words have different meanings(best example: Te quiero ->I love/like/want you if i´m not mistaken).
(But compared to the german translation the english one is perfect:poly142:)
I want to fit this pattern on the grip. Normally i would overlay this onto the normalmap in photoshop, but i want some good highpoly renders.
I copied the grip surface and made a patch out of it. Then i tryed it with patchdeform ,but he always telling me that this is a illegal patch ?
2. Use the TexTools 'Swap UV's with XYZ Channel' button
3. position the Grip pattern over the flattened mesh.
4. Add a skinwrap modifier to the pattern and add the patch mesh to it.
5. delete the edit_poly modifier on the patch.
The pattern will now snap into shape.
Notes
*TexTools will modify the vertex indexs if there are more than 1 UV island or the island has seams cut in it, this will break the skinwrap
*Make sure your Deformer Mesh has evenely spaced Quad geometry, this will give the best /least distorted results.
like this:
Thats kinda the same that r_fletch_r and SpeCter suggested, maybe it helps though.
http://www.squirrelyjones.com/public/model.pdf
Finally someone else who finds it as funny as i do
make sure weight all points is turned on. Xforms are reset. after that try tweaking the falloff value
are you working at a realistic scale?
to use swap UV's.. to provide the flattened mesh it doesn't work well.
ALWAYS work at a realistic scale.. ALWAYS. check your world units and make your model is correctly sized in relation to them. your modeling tools will work better as they are often dependent on distance calculations. Same goes for Skinning. Rendering is also highly dependent on scale to achieve realistic lighting falloff, scattering and so forth. Also if you ever want to do simulations they are also highly reliant on real world scaling.
I learnt all this the hard way on my first job. Its a simple thing but you'd be amazed at how much of a difference it makes to your day to day work.. things just work better. Scenes merge seamlessly, renders look nicer.
OBlastradiusO: I take it you've been sending them detailed bug reports. I don't really have problems with it myself. it can fail when your network rendering but I just bake it down to a skin when im doing those jobs now, that or point cache it.
http://www.markdermott.com/WIRE.obj -heres the obj, right click > save target as.
Trying to make an accurate as possible high poly model. Mainly for practise dont plan on making a low poly.
Thanks a lot
Model the grate as a flat mesh from the top view.
Apply a bend modifier, Go into the Gizmo subobject level of the bend modifer and position it where you want your bend to start.
Set the Angle to 90 and the axis to X
Turn on 'Limit Effect' (the whole mesh will rotate 90 degrees)
Increase the 'Upper Limit' value until the bend is how you like it.
I just copied the mesh then rotated it 90 degrees, then welded the seams.
My Plane with the hole is not perfect for this matter, but it´s just to show how.
Fletch and Ark were faster then me
My reference:
and my model:
EDIT: Thanks for the help guys. After a while I managed to get it almost right, as I still get some pinching around the corners.
You need to plan out your models and look at all the smallest details your going to model in. If your surface is curved in any way your going to have distortion unless your mesh can hold the shape your trying to punch in or extrude out of it.
The more its curved the worse the undesired smoothing anomalies. If you want a perfect mesh then you need evenly spaced geo that's the exact same density as the smallest detail that your putting in.
However, that's not really necessary most of the time because the smaller a detail gets the less it matters how much it distorts. If the distortion wont bake or is smaller than 1 pixel on the screen, or if you just wont see it because of the lighting on the final model. Then screw it, just let it be and move on to the next thing.
That's really all there is to it, you wrap your brain around that and your half way to mastering sub-d
(my comps rendering 1080p frames atm, not so fun to model with