How The F*#% Do I Model This? - Reply for help with specific shapes - (Post attempt before asking)
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juniwini said:i'm working on a high polygon assignment. there is an unresolved problemyou will need some more geometry locally. either work higher res in general and go from there or locally add a bunch more loopsthen quad chamfer
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thanks i solved it
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okidoki said:Usually there are direct tips for such questions here.. but.. i had no coffee yet
.. so:
Blender from 10 years ago up to 10 month ago:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMGAmFjJGGs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkBSfC_KgVw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE93-pFhzNE
ZBrush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGSav7Ktruk
One image Maya mini-tut and a video:
https://www.deviantart.com/pyrzern/art/Tutorial-Modeling-Arm-Wrap-in-Maya-using-Extrude-340878112https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne1CzmRkogQ
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Hey guys! I wonder if there's better way to make shapes like this:
I think i never saw this kind of tricky shape merge explained. Especially when there's asubtraction on the curved shape at the same time. Also there may be a big chamfer at the boolean's intersection.
To me it's a nightmare and always done by hand at the end with high chance of artifacts, bumpy surface. -
If you use not any smooth shading on the surface and the area around the cylinder is not curved.. that should be fine.. ( maybe one additional support loop ad the 90 degree edges)..
..or: have a look at it with some light object.. see any difference.. ? -
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emilko309 said:
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okidoki said:Maybe like so ?..
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I've been working on learning and understanding hard surface modeling. To learn I decided to model the 2nd Gen Light Cycle from Tron: Legacy. I managed to make the front "wheel" (Well enough for now) and I have a base mesh for the body but I've been trying to cut out the windows in the style of this movie reference image:Reference:Background Reference:First Attempt:This ended up messing up the topology flow so I returned to the base mesh:I'm just really struggling with adding to my edge-flow without introducing tris and n-gons that make jagged points and incorrect curves. I'm also finding it hard to make it look like a machined object instead of organic. Thank you.
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suppakid said:
What do you guys think?
You just might want to scale your outer edges along X and Y only.. to give it a more "rounded" look.. ??
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beatnikguy said:I've been working on learning and understanding hard surface modeling...
Ha.. i meant my thread suggestion in "the other forum" more to learn from some subdiv tips here....or you follow my other tip about boolean out (?) the "cockpit" with some simple geo.. here is the result of that suggestion..
..also since you already "booleaned" some hexagon holes into the "wheels".. -
okidoki said:You may have to double check your geometry "planarity" (?) :
deleting the two faces solved the problem. but i guess 8 edges were not enough for the hole, i had to increased the subdiv iteration from 2 to 3.
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Probably don't need to increase the sub divisions that much for that small of a part, it's going to be like 2px on a 2k texture.
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okidoki said:You just might want to scale your outer edges along X and Y only.. to give it a more "rounded" look.. ??
Additionally, if you or somebody reading could tell me, what would be the proper way to model this section?
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WarriorOfOld said:How do I even begin to model this cover? I understand how to model the outer ridges, but the raised bit in the middle is just throwing me off. Any tips?if i have a shape i can not wrap my head around. i just go in and draw a wireframe over it. starting with the more detailled parts to see how much resolution i would need in the simpler elements. a ring is always easy to upres
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Someoen mentioned the edge cease feature of blender the other day.. and i played around with it again... someone has to ue a littel different workflow than the traditional support edges... so i did hit the wanted topolpgy perfectly.. but for a small finger excercise.. if someone is more free in the wanted form then this tends to deliver quick results.. but of course it depends..
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when you crease your meshes you have to work a bit differently from using classic support loops. poles on edges can easily shade poorly, you should always make sure of clean loops/rings on edges otherwise you have these spots
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Neox said:when you crease your meshes you have to work a bit differently from using classic support loops. poles on edges can easily shade poorly, you should always make sure of clean loops/rings on edges otherwise you have these spots
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Ups.. black magic of the internet.. now the two images appeared in the first post of this and the one i tried again (where was no "reaction".. also..)
Anyway: in blender any edge can be "greased".. meaning the influence of the subdivision is lowered.. so a fully greased model would be visually not subdivided at all.. For interchanging purposes you have to apply the subdivision to get the topology which is produced by this feature replicated in another software..
And sometimes you have to use the traditional support loop approach.. as i said.. sometimes another way to do things just may be helpfull.. -
fimbrethil said:Do creases require support loops? I thought there was no need for support loops in crease+subdiv workflowlets call it support structure, not necessarily support loops in the sense you would use those when you do not use creases. its just needs a little different thinking about things. you need to keep in mind that the edge quality is dependent on the surrounding geometry, to have consistent looking edge quality you need a consistently dense mesh. while with support loops this isnt really a factor.something like this will work great for quad chamfered edgesbut with creases the top side edge will look different from the side edge, just because the density of the surrounding geo is differentsee how the highlight moves further into the shape?this is because under the hood it will do this:so if you want a more consistent edge, you need to make sure the density around the edge is similarnow the edge is more consistent. this may or may not be an important detail dependent on what you are working on.and say you wanna do the holes on the outer perimeter you need to keep in mind that poles can have heavier impact on the edges than using support loopsusing support loopsusing creasesin which case, using ngons (god forbid!!!11) could be a useful toolbecause these are all clean loopsnow technically you could solve the ngons like sobut then you kill the nice loop around the hole, which will introduce issuesshould certainly have taken more measurements or look for a blueprint but you probably get the basic ideanote how the outer edge just near the screw holes is tighter than on the bigger areas. this would need some adjusting to make this all consistent.next steps would be alinging a few loops, cleaning up some ugly areas, punching out those dented shapes and then doing the cutouts. probably by booling and cleaning them
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WarriorOfOld said:here's how i would do it. Took longer then i wanted, but i am sitting in school and I haven't done 3D in weeks. (stopped being a 3D artist, and doing something else in life).1. build it in samll parts (breakdown "bigger" projects to smaller pieces and connect them)so much easier to handle2. Boolean them together3. work on 1/2 or 1/4..4. cleanupbevel5. cleanup
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Hey guys, I need some help modeling the pockets on a pair of pants. Ive tried several iterations but i cant seem to get it right. If anyone can help id appreciate it. The pants pocket should connect to the seam that runs along the sides of the pants. (I noticed this after my attempt so please forgive me with that).
Attempt:
Refs:
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Not on a PC right now, cant paint over. But if you wanna model this, model it like the pieces of cloth are built instead of ending things somewhere just so.
Even if you don't wanna simulate, look into sewing patterns und build it like those -
I've been struggling past couple days on achieving this velvet fold look, experimenting on Zbrush with dynamic simulation+cloth brushes. The closest I got was manually sculpting folds with the fold brush then smoothing the result but it leaves a lot to be desired.
I heard Marvelous Designer would be great at simulating fabric like this but I'm trying to get a more simplified stylized look.
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jiggywattart said:I've been struggling past couple days on achieving this velvet fold look, experimenting on Zbrush with dynamic simulation+cloth brushes. The closest I got was manually sculpting folds with the fold brush then smoothing the result but it leaves a lot to be desired.
I heard Marvelous Designer would be great at simulating fabric like this but I'm trying to get a more simplified stylized look.Find out what material that is. And drop the pieces on top of a plane that simulates clothes (with restriction) too see if it gives you the shape?)
if you want to sculpt it.You need an understanding where the folds crease and how it happens.Imagine putting in one piece in the lower left corner .
how would the cloth react To having many empty areas and one area that is pulling all of the clothes towards it.Now suddenly you add a piece on the top right corner. What happens and so on. The reaction to an action. -
perandall said:Hey guys, I need some help modeling the pockets on a pair of pants. Ive tried several iterations but i cant seem to get it right. If anyone can help id appreciate it. The pants pocket should connect to the seam that runs along the sides of the pants. (I noticed this after my attempt so please forgive me with that).
Attempt:
Refs:
https://youtu.be/N3DaG6sETok?si=KV8GBB51YHwXunaV
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Anil3D said:
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Just need some edge loops on either side of the corner, may need to use more edge loops around the cylinder.
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juniwini said:there are three ways of possibly doing it.1. Model it flat and use bend2. Blockout the main shape and make sure you have enough segments to handle the paneling3. floater.All of them will work fine!I am currently coming down with a bad influensa, so this took me longer then it should, I apologizeIn your case, if you'd like to have a sharper edge, you need a cylinder with higher segments, if you want to avoid pinching.Edit: Sorry forgot to upload pictures, and manage to save this in my hardsurface folder and overwrite a 2 year old "tutorial". Yei.
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Thank you
Take care of yourself
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You cawirrexx said:there are three ways of possibly doing it.1. Model it flat and use bend2. Blockout the main shape and make sure you have enough segments to handle the paneling3. floater.All of them will work fine!I am currently coming down with a bad influensa, so this took me longer then it should, I apologizeIn your case, if you'd like to have a sharper edge, you need a cylinder with higher segments, if you want to avoid pinching.Edit: Sorry forgot to upload pictures, and manage to save this in my hardsurface folder and overwrite a 2 year old "tutorial". Yei.
Here is a 3D model approach thats quadrilateral with retaining loops
And here is a deferred decal approach
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Hi everyone, I'm working on a rendition of Pete Norris' Honda Chopper in 3DsMax, and I'm having some trouble with the motorcycle's body. The collage shows what my attempt looks like before and after smoothing. While the high poly seems to be working somewhat (strangely enough), there's still some tiny pinching in some areas and my low poly topology is atrocious. I've tried redoing it a few times, but I always end up with a similar result. The panel lining and details I plan to do with floaters or sculpting, so I'm not worried about that right now.
I would really appreciate any pointers on how to achieve a much cleaner model. Thanks! -
"...my low poly topology is atrocious. I've tried redoing it a few times, but I always end up with a similar result."hmm...well to start with there's a whole heap of redundant vertices or edges that are not contributing too the overall object's silhouette/shape.EDIT:So firstly I'd advise desolving those continuous control loops especially the mirrored one and every vertex on a planar/flat surface then next, apply a triangulation operator which helpfully won't read as an additional face count, aswell.
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Thanks! I will do that. I'm also considering just doing a straight retopo since I feel the curved part might be a pain to try and fix at this point; it's too janky. Appreciate it!
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WarriorOfOld said:
First I would add more divisions on the cylindrical shape. If that's not possible I would do it this way:
Just it will not be perfect, and still need adjustments. -