Thus I would suggest digging through a few recently shared solutions too similar problems posted on a number of preceding pages populating this thread. (if memory serves browse the last 10 or so)
I'll recommend doing the above but at the same time, a reminder - When asking for help, the acknowledged etiquette here is to also post an attempt that will typically initiate a response due to some personal effort put in trying to resolve a given issue rather than the appositeand as well as a host of relevant online content, providing at the very least hints on how to proceed:
it seems like an easy shape, but in combination with subdiv it messes the whole shape up: raw model (i beveled already the edges of the cube to maintain shape): what it looks like with subdiv:
when I try to add edges to hold the shape it won't work: (left to right: plain, additional edges, smooth preview)
i mean i can triangulate the big two n gon faces and it will keep the shape: I was wondering if there is another possibility? like do I have to add other edges somewhere? I want it to understand, i just did try out the triangulation and it worked out luckily...
it seems like an easy shape, but in combination with subdiv it messes the whole shape up: raw model (i beveled already the edges of the cube to maintain shape): what it looks like with subdiv:
when I try to add edges to hold the shape it won't work: (left to right: plain, additional edges, smooth preview)
i mean i can triangulate the big two n gon faces and it will keep the shape: I was wondering if there is another possibility? like do I have to add other edges somewhere? I want it to understand, i just did try out the triangulation and it worked out luckily...
It is possible to improve the smoothing behavior on the hull by adjusting the topology so it flows around the shapes but the fairness of the lines between the frames that make up the shape of the hull is the limiting factor here. Even subdividing the horizontal segments of the hull to increase the geometry density can only do so much.
The example below shows how some quick adjustments to the topology layout can improve the topology flow and smoothing behavior but these relatively minor adjustments aren't able to fully resolve the undulations in basic shape of the hull. Some of the remaining distortions are down to the difference between the each of the frames. This is why it's important to match the segments of the intersecting shapes during the block out and to figure out where the geometry needs to be placed to support the intersecting shapes while also preserving the fairness of the hull's lines.
Achieving the best possible result will likely require redoing each frame of the ship along consistent curves: adjusting the segment count and fairing the lines between each hull frame so the lofted geometry flows smoothly around the intersecting shapes rather than across them.
Here's a video that does a good job of explaining lofting, fairing and reading the lines on a ship's plan.
One thing to consider before sinking a lot of time into reworking or redoing a mesh is: how visible is this area based on the size of the model and the player's average view distance? The lower part of a ship's hull is generally underwater and this will help obscure some minor imperfections. Older steel ships also tend to have slightly pronounced dimples between each frame and deck.
If this is an older vessel then it's also likely that normal details like rivet lines, plate seams and dimples in the hull plating may also help disguise some minor smoothing issues. Sometimes good enough is good enough. It all depends on the project and the desired level of surface quality.
Hello, fairly simple question here and I'm not quite sure if this is even the correct place to ask but I'm struggling to figure out the correct topology on this.
I am trying to make a deep sea diving helmet, however I can't figure out the correct way to punch a hole into a sphere without getting some pinching.
These are my attempts so far: And this is the pinching I'm trying to avoid:
Right now the way I'm doing this is by shrinkwrapping a circle onto the sphere.
I tried using a quad based sphere instead of a UV sphere and got similar results. I also tried a sphere with more segments in case it's my lack of topology that's messing with it but the result wasn't much better.
Apologies if this has already been answered as I couldn't find a solution. If you can't be bothered with a solution, a pointer in the right direction would be much appreciated.
Pinching is mainly derived from an extreme diagonal low poly face transition between circular support and rectangular boundary edges once subdiv was applied.
Now in my opinion a quadified sphere is the most optimal object to use in this type of situation so you were actually on the right track too begin with.
Anyway, here's an old school method learnt back in the day that's remained a firm favorite since, I'll be utilizing Blender 2.79 for this example with a few modifier operations however simple enough solution to translate across most popular DCC apps:
Workflow:
- Add a cube:
Sub Surf modifier - Divisions x4
Cast modifier Factor - 1
Then collapse/apply both (sub div first) and smooth, in turn generating a perfect sphere.
- Next, I'd advise applying a reflective material for this part. to check for shading inconsistency so a default matcap will do:
Edit mode, select 4 faces expanding x2
In the Tool panel under Loop Tools, select Circle, extrude inward.
- Still in Edit mode:
Add another Sub Surf modifier - Divisions x2
Then Bevel modifier - select Weight, Segments to 3 and Wdth to 0.01
Note: ensure Bevel/Chamfer modifier is top of the stack.
- Next, select the outer leading edge loop, then in the right Properties panel under Edges Data change Mean Bevel Weight to 1.
- Expected result, we've cut a perfect circle into a sphere:
Lastly an added extra, some supporting detail:
Simply select the outer boundary edges
Next, apply a Bevel to the edge:
Extrude inward slightly:
Done!
One technique among many, creating holes on or cutting into curved surfaces.
Hello everyone, this I hope is a simple one, I need a hard "open corner" on a curved surface, which connects to a flat surface. All tutorials are about holes in objects, I can't figure out how to do this.
This is what I need, but without the pinching.
I'm starting with horizontal support edges, but when I subdivide it, I get that pinching. And the whole part that is sticking up is deformed. I can't add vertical supports edges because the curve gets messed up.
I did try to implement one of those "hole in an object" workflows, with cutting new edges around the corner, but no luck. Looks even worse.
Attaching obj. High poly object, so number of polygons is irrelevant. Thanks for any help!
Hello everyone, this I hope is a simple one, I need a hard "open corner" on a curved surface, which connects to a flat surface. All tutorials are about holes in objects, I can't figure out how to do this.
This is what I need, but without the pinching.
I'm starting with horizontal support edges, but when I subdivide it, I get that pinching. And the whole part that is sticking up is deformed. I can't add vertical supports edges because the curve gets messed up.
I did try to implement one of those "hole in an object" workflows, with cutting new edges around the corner, but no luck. Looks even worse.
Attaching obj. High poly object, so number of polygons is irrelevant. Thanks for any help!
Thus I would suggest digging through a few recently shared solutions too similar problems posted on a number of preceding pages populating this thread. (if memory serves browse the last 10 or so)
I'll recommend doing the above but at the same time, a reminder - When asking for help, the acknowledged etiquette here is to also post an attempt that will typically initiate a response due to some personal effort put in trying to resolve a given issue rather than the appositeand as well as a host of relevant online content, providing at the very least hints on how to proceed:
Now I have a new challenge,any ideas on how to make the same plates? I found screenshots of the process of how it was done, but I did not quite understand how he did it so perfectly so high quality and smooth. If i do a retpology separately for each sheet, this is an incredibly long process and the quality is low, since there will be gaps and so on between the plates.Below I will give examples of what the process looked like and what the grid looks like process Wireframe the quality is as if it was done in a CAD program, but apparently everything was done in Maya
Howdy guys! Currently working on modeling a stylized hand in Maya, and I ran into a bit of a hitch here at the side of the knuckle. As you can see there's some pinching along the sides. Can someone throw me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!guys!
Howdy guys! Currently working on modeling a stylized hand in Maya, and I ran into a bit of a hitch here at the side of the knuckle. As you can see there's some pinching along the sides. Can someone throw me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!guys!
@Rolf It looks like the basic shape of the hull was derived from a subdivision model but the faceting in the view port, the lack of support loops in the wire frames, the trim sheet decal geometry around the rivet lines and the sharp shading in the rendered image all suggest the final model is just regular poly modeling without additional subdivision levels.
The plates seem to follow the lofted lines that were used to generate the basic hull model. If this is actually the case then the individual plates may have been generated by something as simple as inset operations or something more complex like a tiling pattern deformed or projected onto the shape of the hull.
There's a lot of different ways to approach adding this type of fine surface detail so it all comes down to what the final model will be used for. Searching for wooden plank or boat plank tutorials + application name should provide some different options that could be used to generate this type of hull plating.
It's worth mentioning that if the goal is to create a high poly mesh for baking onto an in-game mesh the sharpness of the lines between the plates wouldn't produce good results. Tile-able floating geometry with a softer profile could be a viable alternative but given the size of the model it may be more efficient to generate a set of tile-able hull textures with a trim sheet for rivets and details around hatches.
Again it all depends on what the model will be used for and how closely this area of the hull will be viewed by the players. More information on the project is needed to provide more focused feedback.
Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D modeling and I'm testing some challenges ...
I came across this object and I have no idea how to model it
I use C4D and I would have thought I'd start from a slice disk, create some disks to make the buttonholes ... cut them in half and create points in the center to make a bridge ... but I'm stuck, it would seem bullshit but I don't know how to move on
the buttonholes (as seen in the image) are aligned with the straight part
Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D modeling and I'm testing some challenges ...
I came across this object and I have no idea how to model it
I use C4D and I would have thought I'd start from a slice disk, create some disks to make the buttonholes ... cut them in half and create points in the center to make a bridge ... but I'm stuck, it would seem bullshit but I don't know how to move on
the buttonholes (as seen in the image) are aligned with the straight part
any suggestions?
I would probably make it like this:
1) make the quarter circle piece 2) make some circular pieces that form the grooves 3) make some circles that form the end of the grooves 4) combine the pieces together either by using Booleans or just by manually welding the edges to form the outline of the shape 5) bevel the outside edges of the quarter circle
Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D modeling and I'm testing some challenges ...
I came across this object and I have no idea how to model it
I use C4D and I would have thought I'd start from a slice disk, create some disks to make the buttonholes ... cut them in half and create points in the center to make a bridge ... but I'm stuck, it would seem bullshit but I don't know how to move on
the buttonholes (as seen in the image) are aligned with the straight part
any suggestions?
I would probably make it like this:
1) make the quarter circle piece 2) make some circular pieces that form the grooves 3) make some circles that form the end of the grooves 4) combine the pieces together either by using Booleans or just by manually welding the edges to form the outline of the shape 5) bevel the outside edges of the quarter circle
i tried... i got this i need to improve something, i've extruded straight lines to make space for circular slot I know that in this way I have lost a little of the perfect angular shape...
what other way do I have to model it?
I think that making another object to make the boolean would waste more time ...
Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D modeling and I'm testing some challenges ...
I came across this object and I have no idea how to model it
I use C4D and I would have thought I'd start from a slice disk, create some disks to make the buttonholes ... cut them in half and create points in the center to make a bridge ... but I'm stuck, it would seem bullshit but I don't know how to move on
the buttonholes (as seen in the image) are aligned with the straight part
any suggestions?
I would probably make it like this:
1) make the quarter circle piece 2) make some circular pieces that form the grooves 3) make some circles that form the end of the grooves 4) combine the pieces together either by using Booleans or just by manually welding the edges to form the outline of the shape 5) bevel the outside edges of the quarter circle
i tried... i got this i need to improve something, i've extruded straight lines to make space for circular slot I know that in this way I have lost a little of the perfect angular shape...
what other way do I have to model it?
I think that making another object to make the boolean would waste more time ...
I would use more subdivisions on your first shape and not extrude the edges to make room for the circular slots
the problem is the slots aligned to straight line, in your model u used one of the radius to start and stop circular slots but this not respect original piece
for this reason i've added some line cuts:
another thing, if u notice the holes in the original piece are perfectly round and not oval i've subdivided a disk and snapped vertices along it
hello l have a question. how can i fix red point issue? l want to make the surface smooth without red point HradEdgeLine (sorry , didn't speak Enlgish so i used a translator.)
hello l have a question. how can i fix red point issue? l want to make the surface smooth without red point HradEdgeLine (sorry , didn't speak Enlgish so i used a translator.)
I'm lazy. But the main thing to take in is to set your curve early on. Now I probably overdid it. But I use everything here... 1. Set my curve 2. have enough geo 3. N-gons and tris.
Hello everyone
How can I model the pieces marked in red?
My attempt is not bad at all but I don't know how to model it because when I make a turbosmooth all those strange shadows come out, I hope someone can help me. Thanks a lot
@gerardpd It's a good start to the overall shape profile but there's a few technical issues that need to be addressed.
The smoothing artifacts on the subdivided model are likely caused by a
combination of issues but two major factors here are a lack of support
loops and inconsistent or non-coplanar geometry. Most subdivision
process do two things: add geometry and smooth the shape of the mesh.
Without some kind of geometry element or data flag (smoothing groups,
creases, etc.) to control the smoothing it will tend to soften shapes
and generate smoothing artifacts where the geometry deforms beyond a
reasonable approximation of the underlying surface.
Support loops are just extra edge loops that are added around the
shapes to control the smoothing behavior when subdivision is applied.
Wider support loops tend to produce soft rounded shapes and narrower
support loops tend to produce sharper angular shapes. There is something
of an art to the whole process of subdivision modeling but the
technical aspects of subdivision modeling are well documented so with
some research and practice it should be fairly easy to develop a feel
for how it all works.
Take some time to analyze the reference images and figure out how to
split the model up into manageable sections that match the individual
parts of the actual object. Sometimes it can be helpful to sketch this
out over the reference images before starting on the actual model. Also
take the time to block out the shapes and establish the overall
proportions before adding minor details and support loops.
On page 181 of this thread there's a discussion about blocking out basic shapes and adding complex surface details to blades.
The information there should cover most of the issues with this model. From there a good place to start would be to go over the reference images, block out the basic shapes and proportions then add support loops around the major surface features.
Give this process a try then post the results for more specific feedback on the shapes and topology routing.
First off I want to thank all the contributors in this thread, it is really helpful and I often just read all the stuff in here and learned a lot already.
I am a 3d max user and just recently started doing 3D again (after a long brake, 20+ years, the era of Half Life modding and I remember polycount from back than ).
On topic so I try to model this:
This is how I did it: 1. I extruded both sides 2. I created a box and edited it so it fits well with the intersecting angles of the tube 3. I use boolean to subtract the box to get the shape I want 4. I clean up any extra vertexes that showed up after the boolean 4. I move each 4 vertexes of a row inwards snap and weld it, row for row 5. I use symmetry so I just need to adjust one side 6. I have to clean up the inner sides to have quads again (not done in the image )
This one I did just with box modelling which was a lot quicker but had not straight diagonal lines.
I also tried the "bend" modifier and soft selection but had no desired results.
As you can see I want to keep the edge flow and roundness, every polygon is one degree. My question is, how can I do this quicker?
First off I want to thank all the contributors in this thread, it is really helpful and I often just read all the stuff in here and learned a lot already.
I am a 3d max user and just recently started doing 3D again (after a long brake, 20+ years, the era of Half Life modding and I remember polycount from back than ).
On topic so I try to model this:
This is how I did it: 1. I extruded both sides 2. I created a box and edited it so it fits well with the intersecting angles of the tube 3. I use boolean to subtract the box to get the shape I want 4. I clean up any extra vertexes that showed up after the boolean 4. I move each 4 vertexes of a row inwards snap and weld it, row for row 5. I use symmetry so I just need to adjust one side 6. I have to clean up the inner sides to have quads again (not done in the image )
This one I did just with box modelling which was a lot quicker but had not straight diagonal lines.
I also tried the "bend" modifier and soft selection but had no desired results.
As you can see I want to keep the edge flow and roundness, every polygon is one degree. My question is, how can I do this quicker?
i tried to model it like this... i dont know if this is the best method the result:
instead of using a FFD you can use soft selection and move the vertexes and make the bend in one go
Thank you very much for the reply! So I gave soft selection another try and this is the result I came up with: On the left side FFD on the right side soft selection.
Here is a screen-grab how I used soft selection:
Could I also achieve the same acuteness as with FFD with other settings? I was not able to but I don't use soft selection that much
instead of using a FFD you can use soft selection and move the vertexes and make the bend in one go
Thank you very much for the reply! So I gave soft selection another try and this is the result I came up with: On the left side FFD on the right side soft selection.
Here is a screen-grab how I used soft selection:
Could I also achieve the same acuteness as with FFD with other settings? I was not able to but I don't use soft selection that much
You need to adjust the soft selection curve. It's the white square in the top right of your screenshot. There are controls for it next to it. Because it's not very linear at the moment and that is what controls the 'acuteness' of the bend.
You need to adjust the soft selection curve. It's the white square in the top right of your screenshot. There are controls for it next to it. Because it's not very linear at the moment and that is what controls the 'acuteness' of the bend.
Thank you for the reply! I start feeling dumb as I can't figure out how to do it, here is what I tried but none of them are as 'sharp' (better wording than acuteness?) as FFD.
Should I start a separate thread? I kinda feel like 'spamming' / 'hijacking' this thread, sorry!
You need to adjust the soft selection curve. It's the white square in the top right of your screenshot. There are controls for it next to it. Because it's not very linear at the moment and that is what controls the 'acuteness' of the bend.
Thank you for the reply! I start feeling dumb as I can't figure out how to do it, here is what I tried but none of them are as 'sharp' (better wording than acuteness?) as FFD.
Should I start a separate thread? I kinda feel like 'spamming' / 'hijacking' this thread, sorry!
try increasing the "Bubble" value with similar settings to your last example.
Hello everyone! Hope you're doing good. This discussion rocks!
Recently I've tried to be more careful with edge loops keeping an eye where they will be ending. A few days ago I didn't have any idea how to tackle this model, and now with better topology I think I did better, but still there are a lot of problems and questions that still cross my mind:
Once the model has been finished, do I unwrap the model "before adding support loops"? or after fencing? Does the model has to be fenced and have enough polygons to smooth correctly so that after applying the texture it won't be too distorted? Doesn't that make it harder to unwrap, trying to unwrap it after the fencing?
(I don't know if this is a good example, but I'll add the pictures)
Do I still have to pay attention to the smoothing for baking right? So the model that will serve as highpoly should still be kept with good topology?
I've tried modeling this bottle, the organic shapes and outlines caught my attention, because they seem nice for practicing, still, I'm struggling with edge flow, and the topology could be better but I don't know how to work on some parts where there are smoothing artifacts. I feel like there are too many edgeloops
Reference Img:
I don't know how to deal with the flow at the tip where the sharp lip ends. Where a lot of loops end up there, because I don't want to ruin the cap's sharp smoothing, and also there's a "triangle quad"?
Due to a stretched polygon, I don't want to add another loop to not mess with the cap and handle topology.
How can I improve my edge flow? It feels like I take the hard route, because I take too long trying to figure out the edge flow, cutting and redirecting.
There's an extra part that should be sharp but adding support loops there will add a triangle. It's confusing trying to redirect the flow. Something I'm doing it's wrong, maybe I simply shouldn't add that edge loop there.
Hello everyone! Hope you're doing good. This discussion rocks!
Recently I've tried to be more careful with edge loops keeping an eye where they will be ending. A few days ago I didn't have any idea how to tackle this model, and now with better topology I think I did better, but still there are a lot of problems and questions that still cross my mind:
Once the model has been finished, do I unwrap the model "before adding support loops"? or after fencing? Does the model has to be fenced and have enough polygons to smooth correctly so that after applying the texture it won't be too distorted? Doesn't that make it harder to unwrap, trying to unwrap it after the fencing?
(I don't know if this is a good example, but I'll add the pictures)
Do I still have to pay attention to the smoothing for baking right? So the model that will serve as highpoly should still be kept with good topology?
I've tried modeling this bottle, the organic shapes and outlines caught my attention, because they seem nice for practicing, still, I'm struggling with edge flow, and the topology could be better but I don't know how to work on some parts where there are smoothing artifacts. I feel like there are too many edgeloops
Reference Img:
I don't know how to deal with the flow at the tip where the sharp lip ends. Where a lot of loops end up there, because I don't want to ruin the cap's sharp smoothing, and also there's a "triangle quad"?
Due to a stretched polygon, I don't want to add another loop to not mess with the cap and handle topology.
How can I improve my edge flow? It feels like I take the hard route, because I take too long trying to figure out the edge flow, cutting and redirecting.
There's an extra part that should be sharp but adding support loops there will add a triangle. It's confusing trying to redirect the flow. Something I'm doing it's wrong, maybe I simply shouldn't add that edge loop there.
i used cutter to make some other edge loops and tried to make it like the original image for me is the best challenge I hope to be of help, I have been modeling for just over a month ...
I was hoping someone could lead me into the right approach of such shape. Military equipment is tricky.. So normally for helmets, I've had luck cutting out the shape with curves, like I've down so below, lofting it and retopo the sphere. However, this specific helmet has some harder aspects, and I've had no luck so far trying to match the sphere/subdivded cube to the shape of it. I was wondering, if there is a way to snap GEO to a curve (i know you can snap the curve to the sphere, so another question in the question - if I snap the curve to the geo, is there a way which when I move the curve points the geo moves with it as well. Sort of like a soft selection but controlled by the curve vertexes? Also, is there a way I can utilize that I have front and side views, in terms of cutting out the top of the helmet, using the features of nurbs surfaces. I am pretty new to nurbs etc. Cheers
Replies
raw model (i beveled already the edges of the cube to maintain shape):
what it looks like with subdiv:
when I try to add edges to hold the shape it won't work:
(left to right: plain, additional edges, smooth preview)
i mean i can triangulate the big two n gon faces and it will keep the shape:
I was wondering if there is another possibility? like do I have to add other edges somewhere?
I want it to understand, i just did try out the triangulation and it worked out luckily...
I am trying to make a deep sea diving helmet, however I can't figure out the correct way to punch a hole into a sphere without getting some pinching.
These are my attempts so far:
And this is the pinching I'm trying to avoid:
Right now the way I'm doing this is by shrinkwrapping a circle onto the sphere.
I tried using a quad based sphere instead of a UV sphere and got similar results. I also tried a sphere with more segments in case it's my lack of topology that's messing with it but the result wasn't much better.
Apologies if this has already been answered as I couldn't find a solution. If you can't be bothered with a solution, a pointer in the right direction would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Anyway, here's an old school method learnt back in the day that's remained a firm favorite since, I'll be utilizing Blender 2.79 for this example with a few modifier operations however simple enough solution to translate across most popular DCC apps:
Damn, I spent hours trying to figure it out! It's much easier when you know what to do
Here's the whole thing, thank you!
process
Wireframe
the quality is as if it was done in a CAD program, but apparently everything was done in Maya
Mind sharing the FBX?
right click, convert to editable poly
I would probably make it like this:
1) make the quarter circle piece
2) make some circular pieces that form the grooves
3) make some circles that form the end of the grooves
4) combine the pieces together either by using Booleans or just by manually welding the edges to form the outline of the shape
5) bevel the outside edges of the quarter circle
i got this
i need to improve something, i've extruded straight lines to make space for circular slot
I know that in this way I have lost a little of the perfect angular shape...
but this not respect original piece
for this reason i've added some line cuts:
another thing, if u notice the holes in the original piece are perfectly round and not oval
i've subdivided a disk and snapped vertices along it
hello l have a question.
how can i fix red point issue?
l want to make the surface smooth without red point HradEdgeLine
(sorry , didn't speak Enlgish so i used a translator.)
1. Set my curve
2. have enough geo
3. N-gons and tris.
and so on.
How can I model the pieces marked in red?
My attempt is not bad at all but I don't know how to model it because when I make a turbosmooth all those strange shadows come out, I hope someone can help me.
Thanks a lot
First off I want to thank all the contributors in this thread, it is really helpful and I often just read all the stuff in here and learned a lot already.
I am a 3d max user and just recently started doing 3D again (after a long brake, 20+ years, the era of Half Life modding and I remember polycount from back than
On topic so I try to model this:
This is how I did it:
1. I extruded both sides
2. I created a box and edited it so it fits well with the intersecting angles of the tube
3. I use boolean to subtract the box to get the shape I want
4. I clean up any extra vertexes that showed up after the boolean
4. I move each 4 vertexes of a row inwards snap and weld it, row for row
5. I use symmetry so I just need to adjust one side
6. I have to clean up the inner sides to have quads again (not done in the image
This one I did just with box modelling which was a lot quicker but had not straight diagonal lines.
I also tried the "bend" modifier and soft selection but had no desired results.
As you can see I want to keep the edge flow and roundness, every polygon is one degree. My question is, how can I do this quicker?
the result:
1. in edit poly select the section that you want to have diagonal
2. add FFD 2x2x2 modifier
3. Move the upper 4 control points
4. Add another edit poly modifier on top select the upper vertices and move by the same amount
5. Add a symmetry modifier and done
Is there a faster way of doing this?
Also is a question like that on-topic or rather off-topic as it is more like how the f can I model this faster
So I gave soft selection another try and this is the result I came up with:
On the left side FFD on the right side soft selection.
Here is a screen-grab how I used soft selection:
Could I also achieve the same acuteness as with FFD with other settings?
I was not able to but I don't use soft selection that much
I start feeling dumb as I can't figure out how to do it, here is what I tried but none of them are as 'sharp' (better wording than acuteness?) as FFD.
Should I start a separate thread? I kinda feel like 'spamming' / 'hijacking' this thread, sorry!
hello
i have a question.
Is there a better way to make red area shapes? & Edge Topology I want to know if the flow is right.
Recently I've tried to be more careful with edge loops keeping an eye where they will be ending. A few days ago I didn't have any idea how to tackle this model, and now with better topology I think I did better, but still there are a lot of problems and questions that still cross my mind:
Once the model has been finished, do I unwrap the model "before adding support loops"? or after fencing? Does the model has to be fenced and have enough polygons to smooth correctly so that after applying the texture it won't be too distorted? Doesn't that make it harder to unwrap, trying to unwrap it after the fencing?
(I don't know if this is a good example, but I'll add the pictures)
Do I still have to pay attention to the smoothing for baking right? So the model that will serve as highpoly should still be kept with good topology?
I've tried modeling this bottle, the organic shapes and outlines caught my attention, because they seem nice for practicing, still, I'm struggling with edge flow, and the topology could be better but I don't know how to work on some parts where there are smoothing artifacts. I feel like there are too many edgeloops
Reference Img:
I don't know how to deal with the flow at the tip where the sharp lip ends. Where a lot of loops end up there, because I don't want to ruin the cap's sharp smoothing, and also there's a "triangle quad"?
Due to a stretched polygon, I don't want to add another loop to not mess with the cap and handle topology.
How can I improve my edge flow? It feels like I take the hard route, because I take too long trying to figure out the edge flow, cutting and redirecting.
There's an extra part that should be sharp but adding support loops there will add a triangle. It's confusing trying to redirect the flow. Something I'm doing it's wrong, maybe I simply shouldn't add that edge loop there.
Download OBJ model
Thanks in advance! Cheers!
for me is the best challenge
I hope to be of help, I have been modeling for just over a month ...
the link fbx for my attemp:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ssuoygrvzy5z84b/detergentPolycount.fbx?dl=0
I was hoping someone could lead me into the right approach of such shape. Military equipment is tricky.. So normally for helmets, I've had luck cutting out the shape with curves, like I've down so below, lofting it and retopo the sphere. However, this specific helmet has some harder aspects, and I've had no luck so far trying to match the sphere/subdivded cube to the shape of it. I was wondering, if there is a way to snap GEO to a curve (i know you can snap the curve to the sphere, so another question in the question - if I snap the curve to the geo, is there a way which when I move the curve points the geo moves with it as well. Sort of like a soft selection but controlled by the curve vertexes? Also, is there a way I can utilize that I have front and side views, in terms of cutting out the top of the helmet, using the features of nurbs surfaces. I am pretty new to nurbs etc. Cheers