@ shinigami
For a vehicle I would use the good, old edge extrusion method. Not box modeling. That's just me tho.
Anyway, your polygon density is too low near the windows, and too high elsewhere.
@Shinigami: Here is what I would do. Granted this is sloppy and I did it in 20 min.
But I think the main thing to do is what a3D said. Keep refining by deleting loops and adding them as needed. I use things like "preserve curvature" when adding loops, and you can simply delete loops to let the sub-d do the work, or select rings and merge them.
I sorta brute force stuff this way, and if things aren't working I can delete a bunch of stuff and rebuild areas and in worst case scenerio I might even just sculpt a high poly and retopo so I have the advantage of snapping on the surface of the highpoly.
I think your question is very vague and that might be why you are not getting the answers you seek.
I mean, I literally would just clean up your topology flow and delete some edges so its not so dense in places. I'm not sure why you don't like that solution.
Hi guys!
I gotta model a G26 handgun for a school homework, and I'd definitly need some of your advices for that part:
thanks!
Should I bolean and then fix the topology?
or hand make it?
Personally I would mesh out all the shapes of the weapon before I add any support edges. Makes it way easier to change things around. As for the shape in your picture I would probably boolean it out with a cylinder.
Edit: I guess? Obviously not a perfect replica, but you get the idea.
hey there! thanks for helping me out! Ill give it a try tomorrow and keep you in touch :] thanks
edit:
thx!
Good job getting the shape right, just my two cents about a couple things you could try to push it even further:
1) Pay more attention to the size and shape of your bevels once smoothed, consistency is very important in order to make an object look clean.
In your case, the sides and the bottom of the shape [the one you asked advice for] have only 2 loops, while the top has 3 Also, the sides support loops are dragged for much longer, since there's no additional supporting geometry anywhere near.
This means the top will look different from the bottom, and the sides will look slightly different as well.
If you take the time to check how the corners smooth in relation to each other, the model's look will improve.
2) keep the poles on your outer support loop if possible. When carving a hole, it's better to have the radial topology extend as far as possible in order to have pole rest on a more planar surface.
http://postimg.org/image/y2qv8jhpt/full/
I tried to model this for 3-4 days, whatever i try i always have some issues with the mesh
Especially the circle in red (the hole) and the red arrows.
That's quite simple actually,image below.
Basically you create a bunch of circular splines with interpolation set to 1 step and you place them by dividing 360° by the numer of circles for each ring,then you do the math for the outer big ring,in this case is 8 steps, and then you convert the big ring to editable poly while attacching together all the small ones,extrude them and subtract from the big circe using Proboolean. At this point is all about cleaning the topology,in the image below I didn't even tried because doesn't require any thinking and is only a tedious time consuming and repetitive task,so I'll leave that to you
But as a tip,if I where to do it seriously I would slice it into 4 so to work only on 1/4,then you put 2 simmetry modifiers on top to complete the shape.
once done,select the borders of the opened holes and do a chamfer to create the supporting edges of the holes,and you're mostly done. :thumbup:
Also you'll probably find out that you need to connect your topology in a "smart" way before doing the border->chamfer step,otherwise it will generate some annoying triangles that you then have to weld by hand wasting even more time,but this things are better to be learned by just making the mistake once,so try
Thank you. Before you answer, I tried to make myself out of a hexagon, I thought it was the ideal form for a six-rays. So I was wrong, and the octagon will be the best solution.
I'm seeking some feedback on the following images. This is my first foray in subdivision modeling, and while I'm fairly satisfied with the mesh topology I feel that there are probably more ideal methods to achieve the desired geometry. Would those with experience be willing to set a beginner on the right path? Thanks in advance.
Not going to attempt it since it would be really time consuming at the moment, but it looks like it's layered.
So what I'd probably do is model the whole thing flat first. Cut the various different shapes in, and add support loops. Once you've added support loops, add some thickness (Shell Modifier in 3D Studio Max) then Turbosmooth a few times.
Then what you could do, now that it has more Geo to work with, is run a Physics simulation (cloth simulation) in 3D Studio. Set the Net/mesh object and set it as a cloth, then drop it over the rest of the gun to get the silhouette. Repeat this process multiple times to get the layering effect.
You'll be able to find cloth physics for various 3D Modelling packages on YouTube - I haven't used it in a while so I can't remember off of the top of my head. Using a lot of polygons could be quite resource consuming though so be prepared for a bit of lag when you simulate it! You can also use the FFD Modifiers to pull/tweak the mesh a bit if you need to afterwards.
Make sure you do a Turbosmooth before the simulation to prevent creasing/smoothing errors. I'd probably do one or two - experiment a bit.
For Games, however, this would probably be an alpha texture because of the amount of holes cut in it (the sheer amount would be difficult to optimise imo)
Not going to attempt it since it would be really time consuming at the moment, but it looks like it's layered.
So what I'd probably do is model the whole thing flat first. Cut the various different shapes in, and add support loops. Once you've added support loops, add some thickness (Shell Modifier in 3D Studio Max) then Turbosmooth a few times.
Then what you could do, now that it has more Geo to work with, is run a Physics simulation (cloth simulation) in 3D Studio. Set the Net/mesh object and set it as a cloth, then drop it over the rest of the gun to get the silhouette. Repeat this process multiple times to get the layering effect.
You'll be able to find cloth physics for various 3D Modelling packages on YouTube - I haven't used it in a while so I can't remember off of the top of my head. Using a lot of polygons could be quite resource consuming though so be prepared for a bit of lag when you simulate it! You can also use the FFD Modifiers to pull/tweak the mesh a bit if you need to afterwards.
Make sure you do a Turbosmooth before the simulation to prevent creasing/smoothing errors. I'd probably do one or two - experiment a bit.
For Games, however, this would probably be an alpha texture because of the amount of holes cut in it (the sheer amount would be difficult to optimise imo)
As for the windows, leave them till you have the profile of the air frame completed. You can then add another level of smoothing, collapse it and then booleon in the windows...
Started with a platonic solid, smoothed and spherified, from there it's 100% quad draw (retopology on a proxy sphere), 1 extrusion and 2 bevels. Takes a few minutes
working on a light house full scene for some school project
I am wondering if there's a quick way to make a cylinder out of those polygons ?
in order to make a border barrier.
I was thinking of converting those edges to a curve, and then extrude it with a cylinder shape, but I've no clue how to do it
Right now I'm making a Sako 85 Finnlight rifle. So far I have a low poly:
Now I'm trying to build the high poly on top of it. I'm stuck on how to approach making those ellipsoid-ish grooves on the side of the bolt though, especially since they have a shallow organic curve with a crisp edge.
reference:
I originally tried doing it in Zbrush, but the problem I ran into is that the Groups Loops and other hardsurface features don't like multiple subdivisions. I tried duplicating and projecting, but that caused a bunch of weird artifacts. Also it seems like I'll need to make proportion changes to the low poly bolt too. And I still get wobbly edges
My approach:
I feel like I'm massively overcomplicating this problem, and I don't think Zbrush is the way to go. If not using Zbrush, how to do approach getting an ellipsoid shallow curved groove in a hexagonal-cylindrical shape? Or is there an efficient way to do this in Zbrush?
Thanks.
Hi there. Sorry for noob question. I have a problem with mesh http://prntscr.com/8oat03
I'm trying to model old radio by sketch. And I don't know how to make topology here in a proper, professional way. Of course i can leave some triangles on flat front plane, but I'm not sure that I'm doing it right. Or maybe I should do this whole form completely in other way. So, I'll be thankful for advices. Link to mesh https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15696308/Radio.obj
Now I hope this specific case was not covered before, I've made a decent effort at reading this thread and looking up pictures from the archive that was ripped recently and I didn't see anything quite like it.
I am working on this screw here:
And yes, the difficult part is where I have this 4 verts triangle joining the thread with the body.
I've tried to fence it like so:
I knew I was going to get a shading error but I can't figure out a better way to do it by myself. What would you do in this case?
How big is the screw going to be in the final model? If the shading error isn't going to show up when you bake the model, it's not anything to worry about.
it's not for any model in particular, it's a sub-d exercise my tutor gave me, the goal is to get the cleanest subdivision possible. Probably if it was for a real model I wouldn't bother so much, it shades quite okay from a distance, you're right.
I am fishing for information here to see if someone knows of a solution that would use beveling as opposed to fencing - I know my tutor has one solution with fencing but I am interested in learning about alternate solutions if they exist Education!
1) It seems like your fencing is asymmetrical. See red lines. Just model 1/2 or even 1/4 of the screw, duplicate and mirror geometry to avoid overcomplicating it
2) N-gons tend to cause shading errors, and you had one. Though this seems like it can be avoided by doing #1
3) Especially for hard surface, sometimes you're better off cutting your kites into two triangles. Kites on the edge of creases tend to warp weirdly, whereas a triangle would preserve the important edge
Now I hope this specific case was not covered before, I've made a decent effort at reading this thread and looking up pictures from the archive that was ripped recently and I didn't see anything quite like it.
I am working on this screw here:
And yes, the difficult part is where I have this 4 verts triangle joining the thread with the body.
I've tried to fence it like so:
I knew I was going to get a shading error but I can't figure out a better way to do it by myself. What would you do in this case?
1) It seems like your fencing is asymmetrical. See red lines. Just model 1/2 or even 1/4 of the screw, duplicate and mirror geometry to avoid overcomplicating it
Yes, that's precisely the way I work. Maybe it appears that way because of the screen. Everything is actually symmetrical.
2) N-gons tend to cause shading errors, and you had one. Though this seems like it can be avoided by doing #1
Yep thanks good catch, had missed it - because in this case, it doesn't create a noticeable shading error. N-gons on flat surfaces are fine. I'm not sure what you meant by "avoiding it by doing #1".
3) Especially for hard surface, sometimes you're better off cutting your kites into two triangles. Kites on the edge of creases tend to warp weirdly, whereas a triangle would preserve the important edge
I'll keep this advice in mind although I have to say I am not convinced at all of its validity *for the time being*.
I get this is for training, but you might want to keep in mind how close you'll see those details, and see if it useful to spend time on it. Unless you're making a screw viewer, you don't need to be so picky on details like this.
Yes of course, but I'm also considering the fact I could encounter the same modeling challenge for an asset that wouldn't be so small on screen and then I won't have the luxury to ignore shading errors.
I went ahead and tried experimenting some more this time trying the beveling technique:
At subdivision level 2 I have to say the shading error is more or less gone. I am inclined to think the subdivision looks clean enough to consider the issue solved, although I'm not very happy with my topology in the center of mesh - but that's a moot point as long as it bakes correctly I suppose.
Hello everybody. It is impossible to make the cylinder is circular in cross-section, there are errors in the form of protuberances. Prompt solution. It is desirable that the net may be the least dense.
Thank you.
HAWK12HT, thank you! But I do not understand what to do here in this image. Can not understand anything. You can show it in a different perspective, or video.
P.S. I guess
Make the grid more dense, and these points are moved inward (marked with a green circle). Tell me how you can make a better topology on the outer corners.
You need more geo, basically enough so that you can use the edge loops of the cylinder as your support loops with minimal pinching. It's the same idea than in the pic below:
"The key here is to make sure that you have the geometry of the curve in the correct place to cut the detail into it. To avoid getting hard edges on your curve use the existing geometry as the supporting loops."
-Courtesy of Blaizer
Also please don't add pictures as attachment, create an Imgur account, it takes 2 minutes.
Replies
For a vehicle I would use the good, old edge extrusion method. Not box modeling. That's just me tho.
Anyway, your polygon density is too low near the windows, and too high elsewhere.
But I think the main thing to do is what a3D said. Keep refining by deleting loops and adding them as needed. I use things like "preserve curvature" when adding loops, and you can simply delete loops to let the sub-d do the work, or select rings and merge them.
I sorta brute force stuff this way, and if things aren't working I can delete a bunch of stuff and rebuild areas and in worst case scenerio I might even just sculpt a high poly and retopo so I have the advantage of snapping on the surface of the highpoly.
I mean, I literally would just clean up your topology flow and delete some edges so its not so dense in places. I'm not sure why you don't like that solution.
you make a plane,cut the shape you need extruded,extrude it. repeat
image below
I gotta model a G26 handgun for a school homework, and I'd definitly need some of your advices for that part:
thanks!
Should I bolean and then fix the topology?
or hand make it?
Edit: I guess? Obviously not a perfect replica, but you get the idea.
edit:
thx!
Good job getting the shape right, just my two cents about a couple things you could try to push it even further:
1) Pay more attention to the size and shape of your bevels once smoothed, consistency is very important in order to make an object look clean.
In your case, the sides and the bottom of the shape [the one you asked advice for] have only 2 loops, while the top has 3 Also, the sides support loops are dragged for much longer, since there's no additional supporting geometry anywhere near.
This means the top will look different from the bottom, and the sides will look slightly different as well.
If you take the time to check how the corners smooth in relation to each other, the model's look will improve.
2) keep the poles on your outer support loop if possible. When carving a hole, it's better to have the radial topology extend as far as possible in order to have pole rest on a more planar surface.
See pic:
I tried to model this for 3-4 days, whatever i try i always have some issues with the mesh
Especially the circle in red (the hole) and the red arrows.
Any help pls
Artist: https://www.artstation.com/artist/david_edgrrr
I thought so too, but these guys have been posting their high polys, and the net looks like it has a slight thickness to it, hmmm.
Not going to attempt it since it would be really time consuming at the moment, but it looks like it's layered.
So what I'd probably do is model the whole thing flat first. Cut the various different shapes in, and add support loops. Once you've added support loops, add some thickness (Shell Modifier in 3D Studio Max) then Turbosmooth a few times.
Then what you could do, now that it has more Geo to work with, is run a Physics simulation (cloth simulation) in 3D Studio. Set the Net/mesh object and set it as a cloth, then drop it over the rest of the gun to get the silhouette. Repeat this process multiple times to get the layering effect.
You'll be able to find cloth physics for various 3D Modelling packages on YouTube - I haven't used it in a while so I can't remember off of the top of my head. Using a lot of polygons could be quite resource consuming though so be prepared for a bit of lag when you simulate it! You can also use the FFD Modifiers to pull/tweak the mesh a bit if you need to afterwards.
Make sure you do a Turbosmooth before the simulation to prevent creasing/smoothing errors. I'd probably do one or two - experiment a bit.
For Games, however, this would probably be an alpha texture because of the amount of holes cut in it (the sheer amount would be difficult to optimise imo)
Yeah the game res looks like a plane with alphas on it, looks really nice.
http://071bc3d04e2671665c74-5a267f839fbe60d0845a37698418bb02.r26.cf5.rackcdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/destiny-patience-and-time-exotic-sniper-rifle.jpg
Going to give that cloth sim a try, thanks man!
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7741113/WingToPlane.obj
As for the windows, leave them till you have the profile of the air frame completed. You can then add another level of smoothing, collapse it and then booleon in the windows...
Render out an ID mask with your model and use nDO or something to apply the pattern. There's little reason to model that sort of thing out.
Read my post again... Also why do you need cage wires when I've posted the .obj file underneath the image..?
working on a light house full scene for some school project
I am wondering if there's a quick way to make a cylinder out of those polygons ?
in order to make a border barrier.
I was thinking of converting those edges to a curve, and then extrude it with a cylinder shape, but I've no clue how to do it
thanks
dont hesitate if i'm not clear enough
thanks
like a pattern
http://www.digitaltutors.com/forum/showthread.php?921-duplicating-along-a-curve
Now I'm trying to build the high poly on top of it. I'm stuck on how to approach making those ellipsoid-ish grooves on the side of the bolt though, especially since they have a shallow organic curve with a crisp edge.
reference:
I originally tried doing it in Zbrush, but the problem I ran into is that the Groups Loops and other hardsurface features don't like multiple subdivisions. I tried duplicating and projecting, but that caused a bunch of weird artifacts. Also it seems like I'll need to make proportion changes to the low poly bolt too. And I still get wobbly edges
My approach:
I feel like I'm massively overcomplicating this problem, and I don't think Zbrush is the way to go. If not using Zbrush, how to do approach getting an ellipsoid shallow curved groove in a hexagonal-cylindrical shape? Or is there an efficient way to do this in Zbrush?
Thanks.
Any idea how to model this thing? It's a small stool or something.
whoever have the time to do small tutorial for me. I will respect that.
http://postimg.org/image/wfxr8lms5/
I'm trying to model old radio by sketch. And I don't know how to make topology here in a proper, professional way. Of course i can leave some triangles on flat front plane, but I'm not sure that I'm doing it right. Or maybe I should do this whole form completely in other way. So, I'll be thankful for advices. Link to mesh https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15696308/Radio.obj
I am working on this screw here:
And yes, the difficult part is where I have this 4 verts triangle joining the thread with the body.
I've tried to fence it like so:
I knew I was going to get a shading error but I can't figure out a better way to do it by myself. What would you do in this case?
it's not for any model in particular, it's a sub-d exercise my tutor gave me, the goal is to get the cleanest subdivision possible. Probably if it was for a real model I wouldn't bother so much, it shades quite okay from a distance, you're right.
I am fishing for information here to see if someone knows of a solution that would use beveling as opposed to fencing - I know my tutor has one solution with fencing but I am interested in learning about alternate solutions if they exist
1) It seems like your fencing is asymmetrical. See red lines. Just model 1/2 or even 1/4 of the screw, duplicate and mirror geometry to avoid overcomplicating it
2) N-gons tend to cause shading errors, and you had one. Though this seems like it can be avoided by doing #1
3) Especially for hard surface, sometimes you're better off cutting your kites into two triangles. Kites on the edge of creases tend to warp weirdly, whereas a triangle would preserve the important edge
Yes, that's precisely the way I work. Maybe it appears that way because of the screen. Everything is actually symmetrical.
Yep thanks good catch, had missed it - because in this case, it doesn't create a noticeable shading error. N-gons on flat surfaces are fine. I'm not sure what you meant by "avoiding it by doing #1".
I'll keep this advice in mind although I have to say I am not convinced at all of its validity *for the time being*.
Triangles:
Quad:
Yes of course, but I'm also considering the fact I could encounter the same modeling challenge for an asset that wouldn't be so small on screen and then I won't have the luxury to ignore shading errors.
I went ahead and tried experimenting some more this time trying the beveling technique:
At subdivision level 2 I have to say the shading error is more or less gone. I am inclined to think the subdivision looks clean enough to consider the issue solved, although I'm not very happy with my topology in the center of mesh - but that's a moot point as long as it bakes correctly I suppose.
What do you guys think?
rotating edges in poly mode does the trick but this shape is not co planar, more like jet engine blades.
http://briefly.silentforest.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/alien-isolation-7.png
Model one and radial array it. Make sure to tilt it slightly so they don't clip into each other.
Animating them should be easy as well, just make sure the pivot point is in the right spot.
Thank you.
http://www.onnovanbraam.com/index.php?tutorials/polygon_modeling_6_techniques_2/
P.S. I guess
Make the grid more dense, and these points are moved inward (marked with a green circle). Tell me how you can make a better topology on the outer corners.
"The key here is to make sure that you have the geometry of the curve in the correct place to cut the detail into it. To avoid getting hard edges on your curve use the existing geometry as the supporting loops."
-Courtesy of Blaizer
Also please don't add pictures as attachment, create an Imgur account, it takes 2 minutes.