LOW-POLY ART
polycounter lvl 19
This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Replies
rooster - lovely pixel work man work man.
paradise.engineering - good work, you're getting there - but the concept (from bjorn hurri, i think) has a more varied skin tone than the plain monochrome grey your have - mix some blue grey and pink bits like the concept.
gilesruscoe - cool
Looks really nice man, only one thing.
The zipper, it looks like a vagoo.
almost finished going to polish him tomorrow.
edit:
A few things though,
The skin currently looks like stone, it's got some very hard edges going on and is really unconvincing as skin. Try to make the edges less harsh (especially around the abdominal and pectoral muscles)
The anatomy itself is also a bit off, there is very little definition in the arms overall - you should add some more detail to the deltoid and you should also add in the Brachialis, aswell as elbow details.
In the back muscles, the Trapezius and the Latissimuss Dorsi seem to be merged together, the trapezius should move up the back and spread across the shoulders and up the neck whereas the latissimuss should be sweeping up under the arms.
Oh, and man those are some long toes!
The cloth lacks sharpness at the moment, you should tighten up the forms and add some colour variation in to make them look a bit more convincing.
It's already been mentioned, but the colours you are using are very... dull, 100% desaturated grey is very boring to the eye, try using subtle hues of different colours to help make the skin more interesting, at the moment the model is just grey and brown, not the most thrilling colours to look at.
I hope this didn't come across as too harsh, im just trying to point out a few things to you which your Orc model also seemed to suffer from, its got potential to be a really nice model if you just work on the details and push this model as far as you can.
another thing i did wrong but realized too far along in the process was making the pants uv too small and the head too large.. :poly122:
edit: Mcunha love your monster entry for the contest! hope i start mine tomorrow if i finish this knife guy
On the model itself, the UVs are very wasteful and as a general rule the border edges should be flattened where possible so you don't end up with uneven diagonal pixels on seams. And if your going to try drawing guide lines for how cloth folds, where the nose is, etc. dont use them in the final texture, just use them as -guides- for where to paint. Also, go here (should help teach you some of the basics):
http://www.ctrlpaint.com
with 256x256 px texture
He posted this the other day but had to wait for first post approval.
DLoud cool shield but i think that making the largest circle brighter or darker would make it look even cooler. also some of those small circles on the edge are not really circles.. i guess cause of the uv map
sorry for so many posts on this page.. i thought its possible to delete your own posts and combine them :poly127:
Any tips and pointers? 500 tris for the craft, 500 for the lady and 128*128 texture maps for each, just diffuse.
What's sort of... "acceptable" for low-poly? In terms of texture size, and are mobiles and web platforms using spec and normal maps?
Nice shield! Liking the colours and the lighting/gradients. Simple but effective.
A sun burnt troll
Still a ton of fixes to be done, but i need to put it aside for now..
Anyways, keep it up, I'll crawl back into the shadow now.
This is the main ship in a shmup, that we're doing for mobile devices...
the models are of course completely modeled and unwrapped in silo,
the screenshots are from the engine, no fancy renders...
one is the 'HD' reference model, it has 3700 polys and a 1024x1024 texture
the other is the ingame model of 323 polys and a 256x256 texture.
Thanks for looking!
@Norest, nice! Fantastic shading.
@Cladestine Awesome as always.
agreed trans for the pointy shield as well as a trans for his little ear wings. afaik they stick out, not plastered to his head
achmedthesnake : I try to put an opacity/alpha on the shield but it become like this..
gilesruscoe : Thanks..
@ n88tr : I make Capt America based on movie Captain America the first avenger.. This is some reference :
lot of outstanding work here.. I still new and have much to learn.. advice + help + critics very appreciated..
Small amount of wave/wobble on transparency is okay. Better than very pointy silhouette.
edit: note, the rightmost ones are not shapes I reccomend using! They are the base shapes for those on the left! They are shown because they illustrate the huge optimizations you can make with a wee bit of custom effort.
clandestine:
you'd be better off having 2 opposing (12 and 6, 2 and 8, and 4 and 10 o' clock) rotor blades on a plane. This will give you a narrow, long quad with very little alpha/overdraw, and taking up less texture space.
Lil SpaceShip for upcoming Unity/Ipad title. 550 - tris
beancube: sweet
I am really looking forward for your tips.
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TEXTURE
-if you're mirroring things, don't put them on the texture twice (pant legs, half the back, half the face)
-800x800 is not a nice size. First of all computers like powers of 2 (2,4,8,16,32,64,128,256,512,1024) which 800 isn't. Secondly it's a bit too big, I reckon a 256 should suffice.
-don't be afraid to paint in some harsh shadows. there are places which are almost always shaded in normal lighting conditions, such as underneath collars and under the chin
-the colors you use are quite flat, try getting some hue variation in there. A good rule of thumb is to have blue/purplish shadows and yellowish highlights.
-even zombies have ears
Here's a quick edit:
left is just rearranging of texture islands, right is with paintover
MODEL
-keep in mind that your counter says 'polys' which counts 4-sided polygons as one, while game engines tend to think in triangles. Because 1 square is made of 2 triangles, your polycount is actually around 500.
-the feet are really dense. You could save a lot here. Same for the hips.
-you have 6 sided arms and 5 sided legs. That's a bit much (for ~500 polies - it's okay for ~1000) Generally you want 4 sided arms and 5 sided legs (because legs are thicker).
-you also seem to be relying mostly on building with cylindrical shapes - this is good to get some basic forms down, but they're not poly efficient in many cases. Heads for instance work a lot better if you start from a geosphere.
-I suggest you have a look at some work from Tom Tallian, especially the spy and sniper models.
-check the silhouette often, very often. Use a flat material to see the most important shapes. You can paint in details like eyesockets and a mouth, but you can't get rid of a blocky head shape with textures.
-triangulate that shit. It gives you much more control, and game engines turn everything into triangles anyway. (note - this is just for lowpoly stuff)
giles, Norest, merecraft, beancube: awesome work guys!
Snader: man those optimized shield examples will come in handy! also the tips for the hands and thumbs
It's either this or a special shader. http://udn.epicgames.com/Three/DevelopmentKitGemsSobelEdgeDetection.html for instance. But shaders are pretty expensive and often not available in mobile engines. Then again, beancube's spaceship uses fresnel for the blue glow, and you could use a similar setup for outlining.
You could also try painting in some of the outlines.
Keep in mind, you don't need to flip/push EVERYTHING, lots of cartoon feel can come just from the texture style. Take a look at Jet Set Ratio Future - it's only got outlines on characters that less than ~5 meter near the camera.
You can use a simple LOD to do this yourself:
0-5 meter = model + flipped model
5-25 meter = model
>25 meter = lowpoly mode
[ame]
Also I want to thank Snader for his tips again
256x256 Diffuse map. 326 tris.
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Agreed
U probably dont need that loop of edges that you have on the sheild there.
Also it seems yoube got the whole shield uvs unique...you could possibly mirror alot of it. but thats just an inquiry
looks sexy!
clandestine: Looks seexyyy
Post some wires!