The BRAWL² Tournament Challenge has been announced!
It starts May 12, and ends Sept 12. Let's see what you got!
https://polycount.com/discussion/237047/the-brawl²-tournament
It starts May 12, and ends Sept 12. Let's see what you got!
https://polycount.com/discussion/237047/the-brawl²-tournament
Best Of
Re: 3D Character : Closed mouth Baking
I got in the habit of keeping the mouth slightly open because it makes rigging easier too. then after the rig i use a blendshape to correct the mouths neutral position so that the lips slightly overlap
Alex_J
1 ·
Re: Need advice: How to get unstuck in 3D modeling
Hey,
Stop watching tutorials and start to get things done. No matter how cruel it turns out, finish it with your current skills and knowledge. Then analyze how you can improve next time. This work, no matter how imperfect it is, also allows you to get feedback.
Work in smaller chunks that are manageable for you. Set lower goals to lower your frustration. Also accept that you are years away from being a useful 3d artist. One year is nothing. You still scratch at the surface.
Separate the creative part from the crafting part. This is vital. It's one thing to model a ship along some blueprints and concepts. And a completely different task to create this blueprints and concepts. And the worst that you can do is to change the concepts at your way. So first define the goal, then do the technical part.
And learn to analyze what exactly "does not work". "Does not work" is no task that one can solve. Lighting is too dark, the shape does not fit, the topology behaves bad at deformation etc. is.
Good luck
Stop watching tutorials and start to get things done. No matter how cruel it turns out, finish it with your current skills and knowledge. Then analyze how you can improve next time. This work, no matter how imperfect it is, also allows you to get feedback.
Work in smaller chunks that are manageable for you. Set lower goals to lower your frustration. Also accept that you are years away from being a useful 3d artist. One year is nothing. You still scratch at the surface.
Separate the creative part from the crafting part. This is vital. It's one thing to model a ship along some blueprints and concepts. And a completely different task to create this blueprints and concepts. And the worst that you can do is to change the concepts at your way. So first define the goal, then do the technical part.
And learn to analyze what exactly "does not work". "Does not work" is no task that one can solve. Lighting is too dark, the shape does not fit, the topology behaves bad at deformation etc. is.
Good luck
Tiles
6 ·
Re: The Bi-Monthly Environment Art Challenge | November - December (93)
Painting the truck. I found that I needed to add a little more weathering, where it's feels implicit in the concept. It's a little off, though, and I'm not quite sure why. Might need some grading?
Paxwort
9 ·
Re: Feedback on Darius model
My examples are in Zbrush, but the same principles apply no matter which software you use.
There is no 'right' way exactly, but there are ways of doing things that are considered 'industry standard' or are proven to be better ways from experienced people. It takes practice, trial and error to see what works best for you. There's many youtube videos with great tutorials.
It might be best to first make something from a youtube tutorial. Then when you have gained experience from copying and making a tutorial model of something, you can apply that knowledge to what you want to make.
Just a quick example (not definitive, but enough to give an idea how I would approach your boot):
Steps 1 to 11 are all about experimenting with shapes and loops.
Try subdividing from level 1 to 2, see how it looks, but *IMPORTANT* I only add the sub division level to see what it looks like , then I undo 1 history back to level 1 to make adjustments. (if you keep the 2nd level and and just switch down back to 1, you will lose the original shape slightly as it becomes smoother)... try it and see what i mean.
*NOTE* It's not a problem if you do go ahead and keep the 2 division level and just switch back and forth, it's just something i prefer doing until I feel I have the absolute basic shape nailed down.
Anyway, this is how i go back and forth making adjustments to try and get the best basemesh possible before moving forward.
Make sure to pay attention to what is happening on other parts of the model as you go along (in this case, the bottom)
You can extrude here (in or out, depending on what you want), BUT I prefer to leave that until the end (I will explain...)
If you extrude too early, it makes things more complex and difficult to work with as you go along.
My preference is to wait until i'm pretty much done and happy with it, and then extrude it (You will need to delete all lower sub levels for Zbrush allows this) *note* there are ways to remake the lower sub division levels after this, or you can of course use zremesher... but i prefer my method as i think it keeps things cleaner.
Remember i mention in previous post about keeping a copy of the lowest sub division model handy? this is were I would use that copy:
I would sub divide the low poly copy (you will want to extrude it too if not already, to match the high poly shape) and project the original in stages onto the copy (add a sub D, then project, add next sub D, then project, so on until you're happy) to get all the details from my original model onto it .
*NOTE* This may not be necessary, it depends really on what you want from the model.
i.e. is it for a game ready character where you have a high and low poly version?
OR
if it just a high poly sculpt?
if it's for a high poly sculpt only, you don't really need to mess about with projecting details onto a basemesh. This would be entirely optional.
Finally i would say,
It's really about experimenting with what works best for you and what your goals are. I would highly recommend making a model from a Youtube tutorial, even just a small simple model, it will really help you improve.
As you progress, you will find it takes fewer steps and becomes quicker, as you get a better feel and understanding of things and what works best.
Again, this is not definitive, and different things require different approaches, but I hope it is a useful example.
Oh, and yes, you can use the Zmodeler tool to move individual points around.
By working from a low poly mesh, you can move points and areas around to give more organic shapes (softer, rounded, bumpy..)
Look up the difference between 'hard surface' modeling and 'organic sculpting' to see the difference and what you want to achieve.
There is no 'right' way exactly, but there are ways of doing things that are considered 'industry standard' or are proven to be better ways from experienced people. It takes practice, trial and error to see what works best for you. There's many youtube videos with great tutorials.
It might be best to first make something from a youtube tutorial. Then when you have gained experience from copying and making a tutorial model of something, you can apply that knowledge to what you want to make.
Just a quick example (not definitive, but enough to give an idea how I would approach your boot):
Steps 1 to 11 are all about experimenting with shapes and loops.
Try subdividing from level 1 to 2, see how it looks, but *IMPORTANT* I only add the sub division level to see what it looks like , then I undo 1 history back to level 1 to make adjustments. (if you keep the 2nd level and and just switch down back to 1, you will lose the original shape slightly as it becomes smoother)... try it and see what i mean.
*NOTE* It's not a problem if you do go ahead and keep the 2 division level and just switch back and forth, it's just something i prefer doing until I feel I have the absolute basic shape nailed down.
Anyway, this is how i go back and forth making adjustments to try and get the best basemesh possible before moving forward.
Make sure to pay attention to what is happening on other parts of the model as you go along (in this case, the bottom)
You can extrude here (in or out, depending on what you want), BUT I prefer to leave that until the end (I will explain...)
If you extrude too early, it makes things more complex and difficult to work with as you go along.
My preference is to wait until i'm pretty much done and happy with it, and then extrude it (You will need to delete all lower sub levels for Zbrush allows this) *note* there are ways to remake the lower sub division levels after this, or you can of course use zremesher... but i prefer my method as i think it keeps things cleaner.
Remember i mention in previous post about keeping a copy of the lowest sub division model handy? this is were I would use that copy:
I would sub divide the low poly copy (you will want to extrude it too if not already, to match the high poly shape) and project the original in stages onto the copy (add a sub D, then project, add next sub D, then project, so on until you're happy) to get all the details from my original model onto it .
*NOTE* This may not be necessary, it depends really on what you want from the model.
i.e. is it for a game ready character where you have a high and low poly version?
OR
if it just a high poly sculpt?
if it's for a high poly sculpt only, you don't really need to mess about with projecting details onto a basemesh. This would be entirely optional.
Finally i would say,
It's really about experimenting with what works best for you and what your goals are. I would highly recommend making a model from a Youtube tutorial, even just a small simple model, it will really help you improve.
As you progress, you will find it takes fewer steps and becomes quicker, as you get a better feel and understanding of things and what works best.
Again, this is not definitive, and different things require different approaches, but I hope it is a useful example.
Oh, and yes, you can use the Zmodeler tool to move individual points around.
By working from a low poly mesh, you can move points and areas around to give more organic shapes (softer, rounded, bumpy..)
Look up the difference between 'hard surface' modeling and 'organic sculpting' to see the difference and what you want to achieve.
vavavoom
1 ·
Re: Bloodborne Hunter Fanart [WIP]
Thanks for the breakdown of the workflow of her eyes. Looks pretty neat. The only thing that I've been thinking is whether to bake the normals of those veins also to the cornea to pop them out a bit. Because I think cornea might "hide" the definitions of the eyeball's surface details by being more dominant with its glossy reflections all over. Kinda like blending those veins to the noise of the cornea. Might be unnecessary though.
I might go with a bit easier route just to get comfortable with eye shading. Just to paint those veins and rely on the noise on the cornea only, because I guess that could be enough.
Also, it's cool that with the help of SSS the eyeball gets that slightly fleshy and organic feel. I guess it doesn't need any specific scatter and translucency maps to define the SSS even more accurately, lol?
I can also see that the base whiteness of your sclera is ever so slightly tinted to yellow, am I right? Like the color of cream or so.
Because that's the whiteness I usually start with, because IMO the sclera isn't 100% white. So, you did it right. (:
Well, I guess that's what real-time eyes pretty much can be with today's tecnical limitations.
I might go with a bit easier route just to get comfortable with eye shading. Just to paint those veins and rely on the noise on the cornea only, because I guess that could be enough.
Also, it's cool that with the help of SSS the eyeball gets that slightly fleshy and organic feel. I guess it doesn't need any specific scatter and translucency maps to define the SSS even more accurately, lol?
I can also see that the base whiteness of your sclera is ever so slightly tinted to yellow, am I right? Like the color of cream or so.
Because that's the whiteness I usually start with, because IMO the sclera isn't 100% white. So, you did it right. (:Well, I guess that's what real-time eyes pretty much can be with today's tecnical limitations.
FourtyNights
1 ·
Re: Mercedes CLS 2018
As usual,what I think it will take a couple of hours actually made me spend almost a day on:the tail lights.I just couldn't get the shape undearneath the glass film,had to watch a lot of different angles and this is the best I think I can approximate that.Anyways,I'm uploading an actual render this time,even if I didn't spend much time on the materials,this is just an "let's separate the materials" phase.
andreygheorghe
1 ·
Re: Sketchbook: Eric Chadwick
Added UVs for the paint, so I could so a powder coat. The seats have a quick leather texture, and the tires have a normal map for the tread instead of geo.
USDz isn't right yet, the AO is bleeding into the glass. But here's a live demo, and you can check it out in AR too!
https://api.rapidpipeline.com/viewer?id=cnRkol7wbe
Note: this isn't my model, it's a CC0 asset from Sketchfab. I'm cleaning it up as a job for the Khronos Group, to add it to the glTF Sample Assets repo which I've been contributing to for a while.
USDz isn't right yet, the AO is bleeding into the glass. But here's a live demo, and you can check it out in AR too!
https://api.rapidpipeline.com/viewer?id=cnRkol7wbe
Note: this isn't my model, it's a CC0 asset from Sketchfab. I'm cleaning it up as a job for the Khronos Group, to add it to the glTF Sample Assets repo which I've been contributing to for a while.
Eric Chadwick
1 ·
Re: The Bi-Monthly Environment Art Challenge | November - December (93)
Hello, artists! How's your week? Hope all is well!
Everyone is doing excellent job here! I can't wait to see more and more.
As for me, I did some lowpoly modeling in Maya these days. I added some extra edge loop cuts on props to have a bit stylized look. The tris is under 1k for each prop. Pickup's tris is about 15k, crane is included. Then imported the meshes to UE5 and assembled them where they should be. I did lighting and post process setup for the first pass. It looks pretty well for me now.
ps: I am really happy I did pickup modeling, I was struggled a lot. But thanks god it looks decent now. I am so excited about the next steps.
Have a nice weekend, everybody!
Everyone is doing excellent job here! I can't wait to see more and more.
As for me, I did some lowpoly modeling in Maya these days. I added some extra edge loop cuts on props to have a bit stylized look. The tris is under 1k for each prop. Pickup's tris is about 15k, crane is included. Then imported the meshes to UE5 and assembled them where they should be. I did lighting and post process setup for the first pass. It looks pretty well for me now.
ps: I am really happy I did pickup modeling, I was struggled a lot. But thanks god it looks decent now. I am so excited about the next steps.
Have a nice weekend, everybody!
LeoNexus6
4 ·
Re: Feedback on Darius model
A quick and dirty suggestion for better topology:
This should remove those two ugly poles deforming the edge, i think.
I think having poles on along edges (in most cases) is not good for keeping them nice and clean.
This should remove those two ugly poles deforming the edge, i think.
I think having poles on along edges (in most cases) is not good for keeping them nice and clean.
vavavoom
1 ·
