I wish i had nice things... Feed back would be nice, and i have another design Wich is the same words, Top...on top over shot with an arrow going between the centers of the Os. As for the siper hat, I have a crocodile bone design now along with one of thoes funny coon caps like davy crocket wears, but i think thatll look more like a soldier thing. Then again, hunters wear em. Theyre so soft....
When I wrote twas had, i ment twas hard.
I don't know blender so I can't comment on the blurry texture stuff, but can you post a pic of your UV layout? I don't know how much more detail you plan too add or if there's supposed to be coffe in there, but the way the texture looks right now you're wasting a colossal amount on space on what is essentially a solid white object. I can't even guess why you'd want to cut the logo in half like that either.
I came looking for this thread because I saw your post in the Q&A thread about multiple texture's for 1 object and how you've got each of them as 512. I'm gonna try and give you some pointers here but please god tell me you're not using a 512 on this.
Well, it is 512 , but i can bump it down pretty easily. See, im new at this, and i appreciate the help, so thats nice. Anyway, (a) The dang thing on the top (the square) is my uv map. You cant see the lines, If i fil in the back ground black or white, i get these stupid black blurs every where. So far i cant get the dang thig to unwrap the way i want it.
(b) Yeah, the knifes got three textures still. I renember when I was viewing snipers model in SDK, he had a ton of textures for diferent parts. I do have a back up texture, but its the earlier one and looks like a load of jarate. Im not sure how far down i can scale em, and if the blender programs going to accept it. Blenders very fickle.
While they do use multiple texture's, you'll notice that they are mostly the same texture's with deffierent levels of detail. not different parts of the same object.
the characters themselves have multiple textures for different LOD's (levels of detail), like their heads and hands, so that when the camera is far away, you get a nice even distribution of detail without anyone area being more detailed than another. the additional ones are for closeups of the heads and hands where the main texture would look blurry when viewed that closely.
the weapons that do have multiple textures are the same, there's one for the world model (what everyone see's) and that's usually on somethin fairly small that or not looked at too closely for too long. th other is the View model (that's what you see taking up 20% of your screen space when your holding it. the view model needs a much higher resolution texture because it needs to hold up to such extreme inspection. - that's also why there's 2 versions of the weapons, and again the view modle has more modeling detail because (for example)a model of a screw looks a lot better close up than just a texture.
some game engines do use multiple texture's for single characters such as one for heads and one for torso's, but typically this is for detail distribution where you'd want a nice highly detailed head for close-ups but are not so concerned with the knee's. and mostly this has come about becase of shader settings where lighting and other effects react differently to skin and metal,
without being able to see the UV lines it's almost impossible to properly crit that UV map because I have to base it on what I assume you've done. the area that has the text on it should really take up at least half of this map, and the rest of it, because it's all one colour and tf2's lighting is more concerned with the geometry, can be squeezed up into one corner.
Okay, that makes sence. But i thought I only have to make one model, the c_model.
I'll get you up the lines on that okay? The you can crit it, ill also provide the textures and item of question with the three textures.
ScudzAlmighty's giving me some nice help on polycount, and he requested a bit of sutff reguarding textures to properly critique my work. Here it is ^_^
Theres several mug textures, one thats the regular, the flat out uv map, and then a transparant texture over the uv lines.
See the problem with the all in one texture is that apon closer inspection, it leaves lil smidges of the wrong color by the seams, those "blender blurs" I've mentioned. I dont know if yalled notice but it drives me crazy. To put it in layman's terms, it looks like someone coloured outside of the lines. (speedy thing goes in, speedy thing comes out)
With the multiple textured one, I get such nice resolution. (P.S. It's supposed to be a bit angualr since siper himself made it)
I know that...i just dont know how to make em... T_T I tryied a bump map on the knife and failed, and the tutorials for blender are a pain. PAIN I TELL YOU. THE PAAAAAAAAAAAAIN! *blows up*
On a happier, less painfull note, I've got my hat planned now, A Croc Cap. Lokked cooler than the water buffalo one i had planned. Its probably the same croc skinned for the knife now that i think about it.
It's hard to tell exactly what's going wrong with your blurs without seeing them, but I imagine it's MIP maps. I've been using Blender for about 4 years, but haven't noticed any texturing bugs.
You see, what happens is that textures are scaled down when the object is far away, so a 512x512 becomes a 256x256; this reduces aliasing artifacts. It also means that if you used to have two white pixels in the UV borders and two black ones outside, they're merged into a grey one and suddenly you've got a grey edge on your model!
The solution to that is ridiculously simple: leave a little room between UV islands and paint further than the borders.
The cup definitely needs an AO and a specular map.
no, no it really doesn't. ao would make no difference to a plain white cup that couldn't be done in 2 seconds in photoshop by painting a faint black shadow under the handle. besides that there's no overlapping geometry to warrant it anyway. and there's nothing a spec map is going to do that the in-game shader wont take care of. if they even used the spec map which they usually don't.
Baking AO in Blender: In the UV editor, select all your faces (press A), and go to Image -> New. Make the height and width twice what you actually want, since the bake isn't aliased and thus needs to be scaled down in your image editing software.
In the Buttons Window, go to Scene (F10) -> Render buttons and find the Bake panel (it's next to Anim). Select Ambient Occlusion. Make sure Selected to Active is off and Normalized is on. Margin can be used to bake outside of the UV islands - as is necessary for MIP maps - be sure to turn this up a bit, to at least 8 or so, but you can't actually go too high.
Press the Bake button and voila! It should make an AO map. Just use Image -> Save As now and use it in Photoshop or GIMP or MS Paint or whatever. The amount of AO samples can be changed in Shading (F5) -> World Buttons -> Amb Occ. More samples makes it less grainy.
Scudz: damn you for discouraging him while I'm writing all of this up!
Baking AO in Blender: In the UV editor, select all your faces (press A), and go to Image -> New. Make the height and width twice what you actually want, since the bake isn't aliased and thus needs to be scaled down in your image editing software.
In the Buttons Window, go to Scene (F10) -> Render buttons and find the Bake panel (it's next to Anim). Select Ambient Occlusion. Make sure Selected to Active is off and Normalized is on. Margin can be used to bake outside of the UV islands - as is necessary for MIP maps - be sure to turn this up a bit, to at least 8 or so, but you can't actually go too high.
Press the Bake button and voila! It should make an AO map. Just use Image -> Save As now and use it in Photoshop or GIMP or MS Paint or whatever. The amount of AO samples can be changed in Shading (F5) -> World Buttons -> Amb Occ. More samples makes it less grainy.
Scudz: damn you for discouraging him while I'm writing all of this up!
ha! I'm not trying to be discouraging honest! I just don't think it would help this model in any way and he can better spend his time focusing on fixing the uv's and the other models in the pack
ok, so using the image you've provided I've moved around your UV's, cutting pasting and scalling them to give you an example (bottom right) of what I mean in terms of layout.
I don't know blender and I don't it's UV tools but they should perform the same functions as most other programs. the way I would do this is simply select the main body of the mug (top half of image) and apply a cyldnrical map to it. than select all the remain faces and apply a quick auto-map. 5 minutes start to finish. and maybe Zwebbie can translate this to Blenderese if the functions have differnet names.
-edit, There should not be any seams around the body of the mug except the far right and left edges where they wrap around and connect. and you could actually take the area with the Capital Coffe logo and double it's size, just remember to shrink the stuff around it.
it's definatley a good idea to learn how to bake an AO map and how to paint a spec map, I just don't think that either would benefit this model in any way. an AO map would help the knife however by providing a nice little shadow where the blade meets the gaurd and handle.
and maybe Zwebbie can translate this to Blenderese if the functions have differnet names.
Actually, I'd never ever used cylindrical unwrapping before you mentioned it, and the results aren't quite perfect now that I've tried. Seam placing has served me well over the years, so I'll just outline that.
---
I made a simple mug, but it should have roughly the same topology. Here's how the seams are placed. Note that one seam goes from the bottom, to the top, and even inside. That's the edge where the left and right connect, as Scudz mentioned.
That UV map below is what it would turn out to be by default. If the side piece curves way more for you, the unwrap method may be set to Angle Based. To change this, in Edit Mode, go, in the Buttons Window, to Editing (F9), find the UV calculation panel next to Multires and change Angle Based to Conformal. Supposedly one is better for organic and the other for mechanical, but I can never remember which one does what, so I just try them to see which is best.
The inside, as you can see, is fancy and straight, but the outside isn't, because it takes a turn on the top and that's confusing for the unwrapper. So, I just unwrapped the whole thing without the top row, which resulted in something straight. Then I pinned that (select everything and press P), and unwrapped everything, including top, which placed the top onto the already perfect side. It still needed some manual work, and it will certainly on your model, because you have multiple loops, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
For some reason, the scale changes a bit, so press Ctrl+A or go to UVs -> Average Islands Scale once you have everything selected to make the scale consistent.
Now just place the islands and be sure to keep a bit of space between them. Here's what I made:
It might be possible to have Blender pack the islands automatically, with Ctrl+P or UVs -> Pack Islands, and then scale every island down so there's that bit of room between them.
The obvious benefit is that I have only 5 islands next to your 15 or so, and much fewer seams to take care of. Good luck !
Oh wow jeeze guys, Thanks alot! This is definatly helpful! Ill give the AO a whirl on the bowie like Scudz said, it would be a good thing to learn. I see now what i've gotta do! Thanks for the tute, Zwebbie, I'll try it out today on the mug!
One last thing, Scudz, what do you think about the bowie? I'll post some pics of the blur real quick like.
Man, I think what yall've taught me will give me a fighting chance in this contest, and I sure am going to put out one helluva fight.
Here'sthose things I was talking about.
eRR. FERR. These are the blurs im talking about. The ones in the picture a bigger than normal, and, as you can tell are a close up. The smaller circles are around the useual size of blur, the big one came from me slapping the texture on there. It didnt want to unwrap like last time. WOW, on side by side glance, I've improved atleast.
Those straight grey lines are just the axies.
....I just realized I actually typed yall and real quick like. I AM a Texan...OMG.
Meh, its the second time i've restarted and i dont like it. At all. Don't feel like finishing it. I think that was a bit outta my league and I don't want to turn in some half baked bad model. I have another cap idea within me noobish grasp. thankfully. And it will jigglebone.
Heres my new hat. Itll be kinda like a davy crocket hat, but made from the fur of a australian mammal called a numbat. Like the reverse raccoon, stripy sandy brown body, brown tail.
Okay, modeling and texturings done. I used Scudz and Zwebbies advice, which really helped! Now to rig it for jigglebone, and compile the other models! ALMOST DONE!
It doesn't matter, i just like it for the lolz XD
It do the koala hat, but not as polycount, because i cant fit it into a theme. I think it wuold be funny.
Some Jerk on Yesterday 08:32 PM
Huh, think ya should make the fur a little darker? And no stripes on the tail but stripes on the rest of it?
That fur cap happens to be the fur of a numbat, an australian mammal. I was following a ref in a book with austrailian animals. Im not stupid.
Gonna reskin the mug in other news, but im pleased with the numbat hat. The knife will get reworked a bit, but otherwise ill be done after i compile em. JIGGLEBONES I DONT GET.
Fanart I made:
Heres a nice painting I did, everything by hand and memory. Got paint all over myself.
Heres my sniper clay figure with a clay replica of the Bowman's Bowie.
LOL this was for a friend but i liked it too much
It lights up! Two options, always on, or lights up when you poke people! I was going to make a full sized replica of my bowie too.
this was purely for fun. Seperating...nerds...not fun.
Anywayyyy
HALP! I CANNOT COMPILE MY MODEL FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! I dont know what im doing, and i was following tutorials to no avail.
I have my .smd, .vmt, .vtf and .smd files, but I cant compile em into one .mdl
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF I NEED SOME HELP BECAUSE IM THIS CLOSE TO RAGE QUITTING AGAIN FOR THE SECOND TIME! I'VE WAITED FOR ALMOST 3 HOURS AND ALL I GOT WAS NOTHING BUT GCFScape errors,FAILURE AND SILENCE! HELP ME! SEE ABOVE POSTS!
Yall still suck jarate jar. Still trying to do this alone. Still failing. Still getting errors. GUI wont recognize any commands. Still Alive but very ticked. Still talking to myself since no ones helping anyway.
when i compile
[Performing Sanity Check]
QC file loaded...PASS
Can read QC...PASS
Can find studiomdl.exe...PASS
Can build command line...PASS
All tests passed!
[Compiling QC file - "furcap.qc"]
[Compiler output follows]
entering C:\Users\myname\Desktop\TF2STU~1\Hats\furcap\furcap.qc
grabbing C:\Users\myname\Desktop\TF2 Stuff\Hats\furcap/furcap.smd
************ ERROR ************
bad command $cdmaterials
[Compiler execution completed]
I'm sorry, i don't know anything about modeling or animating or any of your magic codes of wizardry, i'm here to see that stuff, and hopefully learn it some day, i'd help you if i could but i don't have a clue.
Try PMing someone yet?
It might be more amusing if you said your hat was made from the hide of the now extinct Tasmanian Tiger. It's the kind of illusive creature that a game hunter might go after and your hat actually looks more like it could have come from a tas tiger than a numbat in both colour and pattern. Numbats aren't much bigger than a rat. You'd need to stick a bunch of them together to make yourself a decent piece of headware.
Alright. Im calm now. Nothing fixes rage quitting like 5 hours of sleep, pressure for the lunch meeting today and a pint of ice cream. Okay, wasnt any of those things besides the ice cream. Always cheers me up.
THANK YOU Boylee , Ill get right on it!
Jackablade: WOW yous so true! I didnt even renember how small numbats are. The fur even matches pretty well! Forget numbats, its now a T-Tiger! Thanks!
Nope, its ANSI. Never was unicode. I was using Notepad ++ but I checked in both notepad and ++ and it was still ANSI. Still same old problem. GUI wont recognize any commands, and studioMDL never does anything but say studiomdl.exe is not an internal or external command. And i used all of the code and cammands form tutorials changing things to meeet my file names.
And another problem, I'm almost out of ice cream, so if I quit again, it might be for sure.
I know this may be a stupid question, but just looking at your compiler output, is your .qc file named "furca p.qc" or "furcap.qc" ?
Is there a space between the 'a' and 'p' or is that just the forum playing tricks?
There. There it is. I'd like to make a journal too. If anyones interestied, I'll right the expiriances of a noob modeler. It will be humorous. Still want help with compiling and qc files.
Replies
Im making a new texture for the new version of the mug. Tis smoother and thinner. And muggier.
enjoy!
http://ugomemo.hatena.ne.jp/5AA732101E2DB862@DSi/movie/2DB862_09D201A292A0F_001?in=user
http://ugomemo.hatena.ne.jp/5AA732101E2DB862@DSi/movie/2DB862_09D1F84342DC3_000?in=user
http://ugomemo.hatena.ne.jp/5AA732101E2DB862@DSi/movie/2DB862_09D15D4DE2CB7_002?in=user
http://ugomemo.hatena.ne.jp/5AA732101E2DB862@DSi/movie/2DB862_09D1A9EF27CFB_000?in=user
MEET THE SNIPER: My version: http://ugomemo.hatena.ne.jp/5AA732101E2DB862@DSi/movie/2DB862_09C76E54E92F2_003?in=user
LOOK AT MY SENTRY GUNS!
LOL imma hard core TF2 fan
I wish i had nice things... Feed back would be nice, and i have another design Wich is the same words, Top...on top over shot with an arrow going between the centers of the Os. As for the siper hat, I have a crocodile bone design now along with one of thoes funny coon caps like davy crocket wears, but i think thatll look more like a soldier thing. Then again, hunters wear em. Theyre so soft....
When I wrote twas had, i ment twas hard.
I came looking for this thread because I saw your post in the Q&A thread about multiple texture's for 1 object and how you've got each of them as 512. I'm gonna try and give you some pointers here but please god tell me you're not using a 512 on this.
(b) Yeah, the knifes got three textures still. I renember when I was viewing snipers model in SDK, he had a ton of textures for diferent parts. I do have a back up texture, but its the earlier one and looks like a load of jarate. Im not sure how far down i can scale em, and if the blender programs going to accept it. Blenders very fickle.
the characters themselves have multiple textures for different LOD's (levels of detail), like their heads and hands, so that when the camera is far away, you get a nice even distribution of detail without anyone area being more detailed than another. the additional ones are for closeups of the heads and hands where the main texture would look blurry when viewed that closely.
the weapons that do have multiple textures are the same, there's one for the world model (what everyone see's) and that's usually on somethin fairly small that or not looked at too closely for too long. th other is the View model (that's what you see taking up 20% of your screen space when your holding it. the view model needs a much higher resolution texture because it needs to hold up to such extreme inspection. - that's also why there's 2 versions of the weapons, and again the view modle has more modeling detail because (for example)a model of a screw looks a lot better close up than just a texture.
some game engines do use multiple texture's for single characters such as one for heads and one for torso's, but typically this is for detail distribution where you'd want a nice highly detailed head for close-ups but are not so concerned with the knee's. and mostly this has come about becase of shader settings where lighting and other effects react differently to skin and metal,
without being able to see the UV lines it's almost impossible to properly crit that UV map because I have to base it on what I assume you've done. the area that has the text on it should really take up at least half of this map, and the rest of it, because it's all one colour and tf2's lighting is more concerned with the geometry, can be squeezed up into one corner.
I'll get you up the lines on that okay? The you can crit it, ill also provide the textures and item of question with the three textures.
ScudzAlmighty's giving me some nice help on polycount, and he requested a bit of sutff reguarding textures to properly critique my work. Here it is ^_^
Theres several mug textures, one thats the regular, the flat out uv map, and then a transparant texture over the uv lines.
See the problem with the all in one texture is that apon closer inspection, it leaves lil smidges of the wrong color by the seams, those "blender blurs" I've mentioned. I dont know if yalled notice but it drives me crazy. To put it in layman's terms, it looks like someone coloured outside of the lines. (speedy thing goes in, speedy thing comes out)
With the multiple textured one, I get such nice resolution. (P.S. It's supposed to be a bit angualr since siper himself made it)
On a happier, less painfull note, I've got my hat planned now, A Croc Cap. Lokked cooler than the water buffalo one i had planned. Its probably the same croc skinned for the knife now that i think about it.
You see, what happens is that textures are scaled down when the object is far away, so a 512x512 becomes a 256x256; this reduces aliasing artifacts. It also means that if you used to have two white pixels in the UV borders and two black ones outside, they're merged into a grey one and suddenly you've got a grey edge on your model!
The solution to that is ridiculously simple: leave a little room between UV islands and paint further than the borders.
no, no it really doesn't. ao would make no difference to a plain white cup that couldn't be done in 2 seconds in photoshop by painting a faint black shadow under the handle. besides that there's no overlapping geometry to warrant it anyway. and there's nothing a spec map is going to do that the in-game shader wont take care of. if they even used the spec map which they usually don't.
In the Buttons Window, go to Scene (F10) -> Render buttons and find the Bake panel (it's next to Anim). Select Ambient Occlusion. Make sure Selected to Active is off and Normalized is on. Margin can be used to bake outside of the UV islands - as is necessary for MIP maps - be sure to turn this up a bit, to at least 8 or so, but you can't actually go too high.
Press the Bake button and voila! It should make an AO map. Just use Image -> Save As now and use it in Photoshop or GIMP or MS Paint or whatever. The amount of AO samples can be changed in Shading (F5) -> World Buttons -> Amb Occ. More samples makes it less grainy.
Scudz: damn you for discouraging him while I'm writing all of this up!
ha! I'm not trying to be discouraging honest! I just don't think it would help this model in any way and he can better spend his time focusing on fixing the uv's and the other models in the pack
I don't know blender and I don't it's UV tools but they should perform the same functions as most other programs. the way I would do this is simply select the main body of the mug (top half of image) and apply a cyldnrical map to it. than select all the remain faces and apply a quick auto-map. 5 minutes start to finish. and maybe Zwebbie can translate this to Blenderese if the functions have differnet names.
-edit, There should not be any seams around the body of the mug except the far right and left edges where they wrap around and connect. and you could actually take the area with the Capital Coffe logo and double it's size, just remember to shrink the stuff around it.
it's definatley a good idea to learn how to bake an AO map and how to paint a spec map, I just don't think that either would benefit this model in any way. an AO map would help the knife however by providing a nice little shadow where the blade meets the gaurd and handle.
---
I made a simple mug, but it should have roughly the same topology. Here's how the seams are placed. Note that one seam goes from the bottom, to the top, and even inside. That's the edge where the left and right connect, as Scudz mentioned.
That UV map below is what it would turn out to be by default. If the side piece curves way more for you, the unwrap method may be set to Angle Based. To change this, in Edit Mode, go, in the Buttons Window, to Editing (F9), find the UV calculation panel next to Multires and change Angle Based to Conformal. Supposedly one is better for organic and the other for mechanical, but I can never remember which one does what, so I just try them to see which is best.
The inside, as you can see, is fancy and straight, but the outside isn't, because it takes a turn on the top and that's confusing for the unwrapper. So, I just unwrapped the whole thing without the top row, which resulted in something straight. Then I pinned that (select everything and press P), and unwrapped everything, including top, which placed the top onto the already perfect side. It still needed some manual work, and it will certainly on your model, because you have multiple loops, but that shouldn't be too difficult.
For some reason, the scale changes a bit, so press Ctrl+A or go to UVs -> Average Islands Scale once you have everything selected to make the scale consistent.
Now just place the islands and be sure to keep a bit of space between them. Here's what I made:
It might be possible to have Blender pack the islands automatically, with Ctrl+P or UVs -> Pack Islands, and then scale every island down so there's that bit of room between them.
The obvious benefit is that I have only 5 islands next to your 15 or so, and much fewer seams to take care of. Good luck
One last thing, Scudz, what do you think about the bowie? I'll post some pics of the blur real quick like.
Man, I think what yall've taught me will give me a fighting chance in this contest, and I sure am going to put out one helluva fight.
Here'sthose things I was talking about.
eRR. FERR. These are the blurs im talking about. The ones in the picture a bigger than normal, and, as you can tell are a close up. The smaller circles are around the useual size of blur, the big one came from me slapping the texture on there. It didnt want to unwrap like last time. WOW, on side by side glance, I've improved atleast.
Those straight grey lines are just the axies.
....I just realized I actually typed yall and real quick like. I AM a Texan...OMG.
Meh, its the second time i've restarted and i dont like it. At all. Don't feel like finishing it. I think that was a bit outta my league and I don't want to turn in some half baked bad model. I have another cap idea within me noobish grasp. thankfully. And it will jigglebone.
Heres my new hat. Itll be kinda like a davy crocket hat, but made from the fur of a australian mammal called a numbat. Like the reverse raccoon, stripy sandy brown body, brown tail.
Okay, modeling and texturings done. I used Scudz and Zwebbies advice, which really helped! Now to rig it for jigglebone, and compile the other models! ALMOST DONE!
It doesn't matter, i just like it for the lolz XD
http://www.arrowgiftshop.com/media/4efb4470.jpg
Notice how the hat itself is more of a solid color while the tail part has the stripes.
It doesn't matter, i just like it for the lolz XD
It do the koala hat, but not as polycount, because i cant fit it into a theme. I think it wuold be funny.
That fur cap happens to be the fur of a numbat, an australian mammal. I was following a ref in a book with austrailian animals. Im not stupid.
Gonna reskin the mug in other news, but im pleased with the numbat hat. The knife will get reworked a bit, but otherwise ill be done after i compile em. JIGGLEBONES I DONT GET.
Heres a nice painting I did, everything by hand and memory. Got paint all over myself.
Heres my sniper clay figure with a clay replica of the Bowman's Bowie.
LOL this was for a friend but i liked it too much
It lights up! Two options, always on, or lights up when you poke people! I was going to make a full sized replica of my bowie too.
this was purely for fun. Seperating...nerds...not fun.
Anywayyyy
HALP! I CANNOT COMPILE MY MODEL FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! I dont know what im doing, and i was following tutorials to no avail.
I have my .smd, .vmt, .vtf and .smd files, but I cant compile em into one .mdl
QC file:
$cd "C:\Users\*MyNameWasHere\Desktop\TF2 Stuff\Hats\furcap"
$modelname "player\items\sniper\sniper_domination.mdl"
$model "Body" "furcap.smd"
$cdmaterials "\models\player\items\sniper\"
$hboxset "default"
$hbox 0 "bip_head" -4.712 -9.009 -5.734 4.712 0.007 4.244
// Model uses material "\models\player\items\sniper\furcap.vmt"
$surfaceprop "wood"
$illumposition 0.349 0.000 80.672
$sequence idle "idle" fps 30.00
$jigglebone "jiggle1" {
has_base_spring {
stiffness 100
damping 6
left_constraint -20 20
up_constraint -20 20
forward_constraint -20 20
}
}
$jigglebone "jiggle2" {
is_flexible {
yaw_stiffness 100
yaw_damping 3
length 20
yaw_constraint 0 0
}
}
$jigglebone "jiggle3" {
is_flexible {
yaw_stiffness 100
yaw_damping 3
length 20
yaw_constraint 0 0
}
}
$jigglebone "jiggle4" {
is_flexible {
yaw_stiffness 100
yaw_damping 3
length 20
yaw_constraint 0 0
}
}
*MyNameWasThereButIRemovedItForPrivacyReasons
when i compile
[Performing Sanity Check]
QC file loaded...PASS
Can read QC...PASS
Can find studiomdl.exe...PASS
Can build command line...PASS
All tests passed!
[Compiling QC file - "furcap.qc"]
[Compiler output follows]
entering C:\Users\myname\Desktop\TF2STU~1\Hats\furcap\furcap.qc
grabbing C:\Users\myname\Desktop\TF2 Stuff\Hats\furcap/furcap.smd
************ ERROR ************
bad command $cdmaterials
[Compiler execution completed]
my new code:
$cd "C:\Users\myname\Desktop\TF2 Stuff\Hats\furcap"
$modelname "player\items\sniper\sniper_domination.mdl"
$body furcap "furcap"
$cdmaterials "\models\player\items\sniper"
$hboxset "default"
$hbox 0 "bip_head" -4.712 -9.009 -5.734 4.712 0.007 4.244
// Model uses material "\models\player\items\sniper\furcap.vmt"
$surfaceprop "wood"
$illumposition 0.349 0.000 80.672
$sequence idle "furcap_idle.smd" fps 30.00
$jigglebone "jiggle1" {
has_base_spring {
stiffness 100
damping 6
left_constraint -20 20
up_constraint -20 20
forward_constraint -20 20
}
}
$jigglebone "jiggle2" {
is_flexible {
yaw_stiffness 100
yaw_damping 3
length 20
yaw_constraint 0 0
}
}
$jigglebone "jiggle3" {
is_flexible {
yaw_stiffness 100
yaw_damping 3
length 20
yaw_constraint 0 0
}
}
$jigglebone "jiggle4" {
is_flexible {
yaw_stiffness 100
yaw_damping 3
length 20
yaw_constraint 0 0
}
}
SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE. THERE. I SAID IT.
Try PMing someone yet?
EDIT: Like it is in this picture:
http://java.sun.com/docs/books/tutorial/figures/getStarted/saveas.gif
THANK YOU Boylee , Ill get right on it!
Jackablade: WOW yous so true! I didnt even renember how small numbats are. The fur even matches pretty well! Forget numbats, its now a T-Tiger! Thanks!
And another problem, I'm almost out of ice cream, so if I quit again, it might be for sure.
What do you mean pal? PMing?
Is there a space between the 'a' and 'p' or is that just the forum playing tricks?
Yours looks good though!
To the guy with the coon hat, mine is not a coon hat, its a tasmanian tiger hat. I am not mooching offa you. But thanks for the comment.
There. There it is. I'd like to make a journal too. If anyones interestied, I'll right the expiriances of a noob modeler. It will be humorous. Still want help with compiling and qc files.