I think you could add some wood cracks to the handle. I'm sure this wouldn't happen on a real wooden handle with varnish IRL - but it might e enough to sell the wood-ness on your model.
At the moment it seems like the spec and normals are 'ignoring' the diffuse information, which I think is what gives the plastic/fake wood/print look.
I think you could add some wood cracks to the handle. I'm sure this wouldn't happen on a real wooden handle with varnish IRL - but it might e enough to sell the wood-ness on your model.
At the moment it seems like the spec and normals are 'ignoring' the diffuse information, which I think is what gives the plastic/fake wood/print look.
Good luck!
While I know youre a sick artist Pior, with all due respect I'm going to have to disagree with you there, because it would seem really inconsistent with the level of wear and tear on the rest of the weapon. I think he just needs to back the graininess off on the extreme angles and make the grain conform to the contours a little more.
The problem with the wood is that the grain is going in the wrong direction - they need to be rotated internally so that the wood-grain is running in the same direction as the gun itself.
This will also give you a multi-layered, burled wood look to the curved surface of the grip which will both look more correct and more attractive, to boot. (probably not quite as fine as this or else it will look a bit dainty
In general this type of wood is pretty heavily polished and sealed so the spec he has right now is fine, its just the way the wood grain is running that's causing the problem.
After reading a few of the comments about the wood I was starting to agree but then I did a GIS for this gun and it looks like you nailed it. It does look like the specular tends to be quite uniform on the handle because of whatever kind of seal or coat the put on it. Anyways good job man this is nice clean work.
After reading a few of the comments about the wood I was starting to agree but then I did a GIS for this gun and it looks like you nailed it. It does look like the specular tends to be quite uniform on the handle because of whatever kind of seal or coat the put on it. Anyways good job man this is nice clean work.
The problem with the wood is that the grain is going in the wrong direction - they need to be rotated internally so that the wood-grain is running in the same direction as the gun itself.
This will also give you a multi-layered, burled wood look to the curved surface of the grip which will both look more correct and more attractive, to boot. (probably not quite as fine as this or else it will look a bit dainty
In general this type of wood is pretty heavily polished and sealed so the spec he has right now is fine, its just the way the wood grain is running that's causing the problem.
This is crazy talk. Wood Grain on stocks/grips/weapon furniture tends to go the long way. i.e. which ever direction is the longest, is the direction the maker will likely put the grain, so that it is least likely to split/crack/break. Even on that AK grip, the grain is running vertically through the grip.
EQ I think the reason your grip looks like plastic is because of how uniform the coloration is. Look at the mateba grip, or the ak grip above, and you'll see thicker and thinner spots in the lacquer, making the color richer/more saturated in some spots, and lighter, and less saturated in others. Plastic "wood" grips have the same color everywhere, making them stick out like sore thumbs.
Alright, well everyone seems to have an opinion on the wood grain, i've tweaked it some more here, think i'm finally happy with it. Just gotta stop messing with it at a certain point.
Fuckin a ! That looks spectacular. In the pic of the real weapon above, the grip on the handle seems to stand out more. In your model, does it seem like its (the handle grip texture) getting a wee bit lost ? Seems like maybe the edges of that grip pattern could be darkened a bit ?
Anyhoo, just my silly two cents. Great work, mang !
This is crazy talk. Wood Grain on stocks/grips/weapon furniture tends to go the long way. i.e. which ever direction is the longest, is the direction the maker will likely put the grain, so that it is least likely to split/crack/break. Even on that AK grip, the grain is running vertically through the grip.
EQ I think the reason your grip looks like plastic is because of how uniform the coloration is. Look at the mateba grip, or the ak grip above, and you'll see thicker and thinner spots in the lacquer, making the color richer/more saturated in some spots, and lighter, and less saturated in others. Plastic "wood" grips have the same color everywhere, making them stick out like sore thumbs.
Yes, they follow the vertical line. But my point was that the grain should run up to down and front to back, rather than up to down and left to right. The AK has it rotated the way I was saying, whereas the Mateba (both the old EQ and the regular version) have it 90 degrees around the vertical axis from the AK grip I posted. The new EQ version appears to have it rotated in the same way that the AK grip is rotated, so that you get that delicious looking swirly grain.
I think I prefer the new version of EQ's grip, but I think the spec needs to be tightened slightly and the grip texture needs to be darkened and de-specced a bit (especially in the pits, it looks like they're reflecting a bit), as those areas suck up dirt and hand munge like crazy.
Also I always find it amusing that the WIP threads that have the best looking work tend to get the most replies with people talking about how to improve it
Also I always find it amusing that the WIP threads that have the best looking work tend to get the most replies with people talking about how to improve it
=D
Yeah also the grip section has always seemed off to me, and it makes sense that it would have less spec there(you get soo much spec from all the various angles in the normal there, that it looks off).
Dont worry guys, i fixed the wood grain via BLOOM.
awesome. thanks for the textures, great help. so whats the word on that shader, eh? is it a special shader you guys use at work and therefore cant distribute it?
awesome. thanks for the textures, great help. so whats the word on that shader, eh? is it a special shader you guys use at work and therefore cant distribute it?
Cant give out any more info on the shader at this time.
Wow, I didn't expect the diffuse to be so dark, it almost seems like none of the color, value, or grime detail in that is coming through on the final shots almost at all.
I think the diffuse is quite nice (maybe a touch more contrast) but what happens that the final result ends up looking like only the spec is showing (for the metal that is)?
I think you've conveyed the materials really good in the textures.
Your attention to detail in the forms and how tight they fit together gives the gun believable weight. I think that you've made the edges on the forms very descriptive and clear and that helps. Although tit's my favorite part, I don't really like the long thin scratches you've added on the bullet cylinder. For some reason those scratches break my attention, I'm probably crazy, but those long scratches would have to be intentionally made, right? they start on one large flat side and perfectly transition over to the next, as if someone was dragging a pin over it while slowly turning it. I would think the scratch couldn't be consistent otherwise. That's right. a single scratch... I'm kind of an idiot, sorry. Also, I think the wood does look great. I bet it looks amazing in 3D. It's totally awesome how it is, but if maybe there was a single tick or bump or chip out of the wood, it would go a long way describing the wood for the sake of a screenshot. Where you're at is totally awesome, just wanted to spit at you.
Sandbag: Yeah it needs to be pretty dark for the shader to do its stuff, you know really the reasoning there is just that IRL metal tends to have very simple(unless rusty or really stained) color, and most of the detail is in the specular. And then to get contrast out of those mats you need dark diffuse + nice specular, really i generally try to do all of the detail in teh specular if i can, and leave the diffuse just for some simple color information base color, stains, variation, and dirt/dust and have all the scratches, wearing, texture/noise all in the specular so you get that great dynamic effect. This sort of stuff doesnt really work as well if you dont have a good shader to back it up i guess.
Kovac: GO PACKERS
Cory, yeah dude, good post. Those couple scratches were just from a scratch brush i have, half-randomly placed, and then i went back over them and tried to erase them from where they looked out of place, i think you're probabbly right, but also overthinking it a little too
Man this is such a fucking cool looking gun EQ. Thanks for posting the textures too, lots to check out and learn.
How come your wobbly normals on a couple of those circles (cylinders) don't look wobbly in the render? I seem to ALWAYS have wobblys in my normals when baking cylindrical objects and they always look like poo. What magic are you employing?!
Well the wobbly stuff can actually look good at times, it just depends on what angle, so i try not to worry about it too much unless its really a big distraction.
Only thing I wonder about is the "20 039" on the side of the cylinder, a unique detail like this would mean you would need some kind of case in the animation cycle to get it to show only every sixth shot.
Yeah honestly i dont quite understand how people do reload animations for revolvers like these, usually i guess it rotates and then snaps back? That always seemed like a poor solution to me(because you can tell sometimes, esp if there is any unique texture detail). I think it would be better to have 6 shoot anims that play in sequence, i dont know, not an animator etc.
Anyway it was just a cool little detail in one of my refs, and i think its nice to break things up a bit.
For the animation to make sense, you'd have to see the thumb release the cylinder(or the barrel, depending on the age of the revolver, some being like a shotgun in which the barrel releases and folds forward)...the opposite hand reaching for single bullets, or probably more professionally a speed loader. Then either a snap of the wrist to snap the cylinder back into place(which would most likely be seen in game due to it's "stylish" appeal) or a simple animation of the other hand snapping it back in place. Then finally, cocking back the hammer. But all of that is just way too slow for gaming, so no animation to date that I know of has actually done it right.
Now if you did all those steps, I think you could figure out how to case the cylinder to revolve and empty every 6th shot
No no, not the reload animation, the *fire* animation. Most revolver animations that i've seen rotate the cylinder one bullet, and then just snap back to the rig pose.
With this pistol, from the FPS view you can see the edges of the casing, it would be awesome with the 6 animations for the cylinder rotating, worth it in the long run for a game, probably not, from an artistic standpoint, hells yeah.
Might just be the angle you have the screengrab at, but I feel like the texture on the grip isn't catching enough spec, the highlights and the shadows don't look like they are selling the actual texture of the wood you have the normal pushing.
Replies
At the moment it seems like the spec and normals are 'ignoring' the diffuse information, which I think is what gives the plastic/fake wood/print look.
Good luck!
While I know youre a sick artist Pior, with all due respect I'm going to have to disagree with you there, because it would seem really inconsistent with the level of wear and tear on the rest of the weapon. I think he just needs to back the graininess off on the extreme angles and make the grain conform to the contours a little more.
The problem with the wood is that the grain is going in the wrong direction - they need to be rotated internally so that the wood-grain is running in the same direction as the gun itself.
This will also give you a multi-layered, burled wood look to the curved surface of the grip which will both look more correct and more attractive, to boot.
In general this type of wood is pretty heavily polished and sealed so the spec he has right now is fine, its just the way the wood grain is running that's causing the problem.
looks like you're right
This is crazy talk. Wood Grain on stocks/grips/weapon furniture tends to go the long way. i.e. which ever direction is the longest, is the direction the maker will likely put the grain, so that it is least likely to split/crack/break. Even on that AK grip, the grain is running vertically through the grip.
EQ I think the reason your grip looks like plastic is because of how uniform the coloration is. Look at the mateba grip, or the ak grip above, and you'll see thicker and thinner spots in the lacquer, making the color richer/more saturated in some spots, and lighter, and less saturated in others. Plastic "wood" grips have the same color everywhere, making them stick out like sore thumbs.
Anyhoo, just my silly two cents. Great work, mang !
I also agree, looking at the pic of the gun, that the edges [of the grip] should be darkened slightly.
Yes, they follow the vertical line. But my point was that the grain should run up to down and front to back, rather than up to down and left to right. The AK has it rotated the way I was saying, whereas the Mateba (both the old EQ and the regular version) have it 90 degrees around the vertical axis from the AK grip I posted. The new EQ version appears to have it rotated in the same way that the AK grip is rotated, so that you get that delicious looking swirly grain.
I think I prefer the new version of EQ's grip, but I think the spec needs to be tightened slightly and the grip texture needs to be darkened and de-specced a bit (especially in the pits, it looks like they're reflecting a bit), as those areas suck up dirt and hand munge like crazy.
Also I always find it amusing that the WIP threads that have the best looking work tend to get the most replies with people talking about how to improve it
=D
Yeah also the grip section has always seemed off to me, and it makes sense that it would have less spec there(you get soo much spec from all the various angles in the normal there, that it looks off).
Dont worry guys, i fixed the wood grain via BLOOM.
Also, playing with lighting a little more.
Oh yeah, flats too
pretty gun
Heres another shot with a couple more tweaks
Cant give out any more info on the shader at this time.
May I just ask, whats your high poly work flow like?
Do you keep modeling off the base or do you subdivide/turbosmooth it?
I think the diffuse is quite nice (maybe a touch more contrast) but what happens that the final result ends up looking like only the spec is showing (for the metal that is)?
Your attention to detail in the forms and how tight they fit together gives the gun believable weight. I think that you've made the edges on the forms very descriptive and clear and that helps. Although tit's my favorite part, I don't really like the long thin scratches you've added on the bullet cylinder. For some reason those scratches break my attention, I'm probably crazy, but those long scratches would have to be intentionally made, right? they start on one large flat side and perfectly transition over to the next, as if someone was dragging a pin over it while slowly turning it. I would think the scratch couldn't be consistent otherwise. That's right. a single scratch... I'm kind of an idiot, sorry. Also, I think the wood does look great. I bet it looks amazing in 3D. It's totally awesome how it is, but if maybe there was a single tick or bump or chip out of the wood, it would go a long way describing the wood for the sake of a screenshot. Where you're at is totally awesome, just wanted to spit at you.
Sandbag: Yeah it needs to be pretty dark for the shader to do its stuff, you know really the reasoning there is just that IRL metal tends to have very simple(unless rusty or really stained) color, and most of the detail is in the specular. And then to get contrast out of those mats you need dark diffuse + nice specular, really i generally try to do all of the detail in teh specular if i can, and leave the diffuse just for some simple color information base color, stains, variation, and dirt/dust and have all the scratches, wearing, texture/noise all in the specular so you get that great dynamic effect. This sort of stuff doesnt really work as well if you dont have a good shader to back it up i guess.
Kovac: GO PACKERS
Cory, yeah dude, good post. Those couple scratches were just from a scratch brush i have, half-randomly placed, and then i went back over them and tried to erase them from where they looked out of place, i think you're probabbly right, but also overthinking it a little too
How come your wobbly normals on a couple of those circles (cylinders) don't look wobbly in the render? I seem to ALWAYS have wobblys in my normals when baking cylindrical objects and they always look like poo. What magic are you employing?!
Looks freakin' ace like usual man.
Anyway it was just a cool little detail in one of my refs, and i think its nice to break things up a bit.
Now if you did all those steps, I think you could figure out how to case the cylinder to revolve and empty every 6th shot
Might just be the angle you have the screengrab at, but I feel like the texture on the grip isn't catching enough spec, the highlights and the shadows don't look like they are selling the actual texture of the wood you have the normal pushing.