Hi, I thought that instead of your green chem container maybe make a container that will look like a potion bottle? Similar to the one that ogre rider have I think that will fit more nicely into the game style.
Hi, I thought that instead of your green chem container maybe make a container that will look like a potion bottle? Similar to the one that ogre rider have I think that will fit more nicely into the game style.
I thought of that but they are so small and if ı make them big it could look weird.
I feel like have to go back and work on your highpoly and base mesh some more. The weapon looks very thin alltogether and it seems like it's about to break... Axe's weapons should be thick and robust.
here's my thoughts:
Thx for critism,
1.I dont know how to change background in marmoset.
2.I did the wood like you said but it is mirrored so it looking like that.
3.I was think about making runes glow by masks. (Wip)
4.I can and will reduce the count of scrathes by half.
5.I am gonna merge the wood and make it one piece.
6. I dont have enough tris to make it rounder but maybe after 5. thing ı can do it.
Agin ty so much!
2.I did the wood like you said but it is mirrored so it looking like that.
3.I was think about making runes glow by masks. (Wip)
4.I can and will reduce the count of scrathes by half.
2: You could try not mirroring the wood at all, if you have the space on your UV map.
3: I still think the will be too small to see properly in-game, but I may be wrong about this.
4: I think even half the scratches will be too much. I think your better off with only 3-4 that stand out.
hello, your works looking nice and promising, keep it going! But I think you should consider that your end result should be a baked low-poly model so you need to prepare your hi-poly model according to that, for example sculpting the details and edges bold enough to allow them to convert into low texture resolutions without showing up too noisy.
hello, your works looking nice and promising, keep it going! But I think you should consider that your end result should be a baked low-poly model so you need to prepare your hi-poly model according to that, for example sculpting the details and edges bold enough to allow them to convert into low texture resolutions without showing up too noisy.
Kolay gelsin
I was thinking about using high poly in promo pic so the promo will be good. And maybe ı create less noise high polt for ingame model.
I was thinking about using high poly in promo pic so the promo will be good.
To be honest I believe promo pics should be as close to the ingame version as possible, since that's what the buyer gets. I think the magic lies in getting the low poly baked to look close to perfect.
That being said, I agree with the others that you should try to make your models bolder.
Try using this for your cracks. It helped me a lot, maybe it does the same for you.
It's a custom brush for Zbrush which makes adding scratches a breeze.
Try using this for your cracks. It helped me a lot, maybe it does the same for you.
It's a custom brush for Zbrush which makes adding scratches a breeze.
I am aware of that, I did it for promo pic and for practice.
those words , the longer one is japanese, another one is "honour". well normally chinese stuff i dont think will put this 2 words on that, it is like tatoo "water" on your arm.
those words , the longer one is japanese, another one is "honour". well normally chinese stuff i dont think will put this 2 words on that, it is like tatoo "water" on your arm.
I think it is no longer important because ı decide to redo the high poly
I feel like you are doing too many things at the same time + you might benefit from just sticking with 1 thing and finishing it
Also with sculpting I think its best to try and not just draw lines on flat planes to try and give the illusion of detail, its better to actually create realistic depth in the model, because the best models are ones which actually work in the same way as the thing in real life. For instance with the creases in the chen hat, you have just drawn lines but you would be better off actually shaping the cloth to crease instead of keeping it completely flat. If you are going to feign detail with lines and stuff you cant really do it on such a large part of the object
Thx for the comments, @Reza: I use a tablet that ı bougt 2 week ago. And ı know about my patterns looking unreal bıt ı am trying to get used to the natural shapes @Pipotchi: Like ı said ı will get used to the natural shapes.
I feel like you are doing too many things at the same time + you might benefit from just sticking with 1 thing and finishing it
This.
So much this.
It's fine to juggle projects, but you have to be constantly organized, and know your workflow like the back of your hand. I really think it would be worth it to pick just one piece and eat/sleep/breath it until you get it to a high quality piece.
i would advise u the same. its not only that u are doing more projects at the same time - u are also doing each step of it. doing this without having mastered the single steps will cause u to fail.
if u divide the whole itemcreating process into pieces u gona get:
right at the moment (sorry for the honest words) every single of that steps u do needs alot of improvment. i think u should do it like me and focus on one process part and master it.
like RLY master it - and learn everything to make this one step into a masterpiece. then u can go for the next.
after all u spend a lot of time here, and i rly see your will to improve and to grow. i like that. and what u are doing is already getting better (compared to ..for example that metallbox armslot for alchi^^) just try it.. focus on one part and master - as soon as u can *offer* something, others will do collabos with u and u can grow even more
Like shocks saying what I'm saying, there's no problem with specialization. At all.
And to add to his steps, in the modeling, you also get
HP Modeling/Sculpting, LP Modeling/Retopo/Optimization, Baking.
There's a reason people collab. Doing a one man show at the quality level/ time frame expected to get items in noticed in the workshop is a rough gig. You might just want to take a few days to really reevaluate what you like doing the most and go for that, OR decide to do a different step on several different collabs.
I think it was a good decision to focus on the jugg sword at first.
Here's some feedback for you:
Try using bigger and less scratches. You got some 15-20 scratches right now and that big crack in the middle. You should try to use only 3 scratches and make the big crack more edgy. Just try it and see how it looks!
The red stripe in the center looks crooked. Try using the msking tool in Zbrush (the dark spot that you get when you leftclick while holding ctrl) With that you freeze the marked area. Try drawing a clean edge you the masking then use clay-buildup with Zsub to lower the unmasked area.
If my explanation is too bad, google "Zbrush masking tutorial", there should be plenty.
Replies
critism and comments are welcomed.(I need those because my textures generally suck)
or maybe darker
(Worst promo ever?)
I thought of that but they are so small and if ı make them big it could look weird.
Eagle fur like its ability called "Eagle Walk"
sorry for the second pic there is a problem with the server so ı cant go ingame.
still need to play with eye wrap alot.
ty mate, even this 2 words are enough to encourage me. ( Because normally ı got no replies)
Concept by Sherlock:
Mostly saved tris to add something on his back
(As a name Weird Look of Evil Butcher)
just to show that it is hair not horn.
Any comments and critism are welcomed. ( First time using marmoset )
here's my thoughts:
1.I dont know how to change background in marmoset.
2.I did the wood like you said but it is mirrored so it looking like that.
3.I was think about making runes glow by masks. (Wip)
4.I can and will reduce the count of scrathes by half.
5.I am gonna merge the wood and make it one piece.
6. I dont have enough tris to make it rounder but maybe after 5. thing ı can do it.
Agin ty so much!
2: You could try not mirroring the wood at all, if you have the space on your UV map.
3: I still think the will be too small to see properly in-game, but I may be wrong about this.
4: I think even half the scratches will be too much. I think your better off with only 3-4 that stand out.
Kolay gelsin
Thx for critism, after this critism ı realise that you are right it doesnt make any sense. I just tried to do something because it was looking naked.
I was thinking about using high poly in promo pic so the promo will be good. And maybe ı create less noise high polt for ingame model.
Saol!!
To be honest I believe promo pics should be as close to the ingame version as possible, since that's what the buyer gets. I think the magic lies in getting the low poly baked to look close to perfect.
That being said, I agree with the others that you should try to make your models bolder.
It's a custom brush for Zbrush which makes adding scratches a breeze.
Thx, ı will use it with new high poly.
C&C are appreciated
those words , the longer one is japanese, another one is "honour". well normally chinese stuff i dont think will put this 2 words on that, it is like tatoo "water" on your arm.
I think it is no longer important because ı decide to redo the high poly
BTW do you use mouse when Zbrushing?
Also with sculpting I think its best to try and not just draw lines on flat planes to try and give the illusion of detail, its better to actually create realistic depth in the model, because the best models are ones which actually work in the same way as the thing in real life. For instance with the creases in the chen hat, you have just drawn lines but you would be better off actually shaping the cloth to crease instead of keeping it completely flat. If you are going to feign detail with lines and stuff you cant really do it on such a large part of the object
@Reza: I use a tablet that ı bougt 2 week ago. And ı know about my patterns looking unreal bıt ı am trying to get used to the natural shapes
@Pipotchi: Like ı said ı will get used to the natural shapes.
This.
So much this.
It's fine to juggle projects, but you have to be constantly organized, and know your workflow like the back of your hand. I really think it would be worth it to pick just one piece and eat/sleep/breath it until you get it to a high quality piece.
if u divide the whole itemcreating process into pieces u gona get:
concepting / modelling / texturing / (animating) / promotion for workshop
right at the moment (sorry for the honest words) every single of that steps u do needs alot of improvment. i think u should do it like me and focus on one process part and master it.
like RLY master it - and learn everything to make this one step into a masterpiece. then u can go for the next.
after all u spend a lot of time here, and i rly see your will to improve and to grow. i like that. and what u are doing is already getting better (compared to ..for example that metallbox armslot for alchi^^) just try it.. focus on one part and master - as soon as u can *offer* something, others will do collabos with u and u can grow even more
greez!
And to add to his steps, in the modeling, you also get
HP Modeling/Sculpting, LP Modeling/Retopo/Optimization, Baking.
There's a reason people collab. Doing a one man show at the quality level/ time frame expected to get items in noticed in the workshop is a rough gig. You might just want to take a few days to really reevaluate what you like doing the most and go for that, OR decide to do a different step on several different collabs.
I mean, or don't these are all just suggestions.
I decided to go with jug sword, ı will work a lot and show you the progress, and pls critism the progress as well.
Thx again.
And maps;
Here's some feedback for you:
Try using bigger and less scratches. You got some 15-20 scratches right now and that big crack in the middle. You should try to use only 3 scratches and make the big crack more edgy. Just try it and see how it looks!
The red stripe in the center looks crooked. Try using the msking tool in Zbrush (the dark spot that you get when you leftclick while holding ctrl) With that you freeze the marked area. Try drawing a clean edge you the masking then use clay-buildup with Zsub to lower the unmasked area.
If my explanation is too bad, google "Zbrush masking tutorial", there should be plenty.