I'm trying to rig my lycan set to test in game, but whenever I load it up, my items are offset upward by the length of the character or so. I've tried resetting/deleting bind poses, importing multiple ways, but the items keep coming in way above. I've tried the rig in the full .ma file as well as the rigs that were in individual .fbx's. Anyone have any idea what's causing it or how to fix it? He seems to be in his 'preferred angle' and everything for the bones. just not sure why it would import THAT much higher. It's driving me nuts.
Did you have any problems with the skinbind? Which bones did you bind to? I am experiencing problems with the back legs on my mount.
Maybe Bronto could tell which which bones he used also?
Strange enough i had no problems when i forgot to use the backbones but i want to use all four legs Could maybe have something to do with the blanket bones.
After doing more testing - it seems like all the bones are being reset to the origin (0, 0, 0). If I move items there and kind of haphazardly guess, they're almost in the right spots. Is there any kind of setting or checkbox that would cause bones to reset to 0?
Progress on my warlock staff. First time doing hand painted and something this low res,
Edit:
I have question. Is it possible to add particles effect ? I wanted to add some smoke/fire effect to globe on staff, but dunno how to do it and if it is even possible.
alright, found out it was related to a bind pose thing. Basically I got rid of every bind pose but the highest numbered one, reset to that, then rigged the items and I was able to get them in. Yeesh. glad to have it working now, it took a night but at least that's done with now. Thanks to everyone who helped figure out that timesink lol.
Quick question:
I wanna render out a lightmap with pointlights in blender. The dota2 textureguide recommends something with good specular highlights. Anyone got a good couple of settings for that under blender?
Hi guys, I need some help on converting my lowpoly to a highpoly (for sculpting in mudbox) using MAYA. I've followed Lennyagony's tutorial, but he uses 3ds Max and I'm having trouble with smoothing groups (for maya).
I want to achieve a nice bevel on edges (like Lenny achieved with smoothing groups and turbosmooth), but the only way I can achieve this in maya is by adding edge loops on my lowpoly on either side of the edge I want to bevel. I get the shape I want but it ruins the mesh for sculpting.
Here are some pictures for explanation.
(on the low poly, solid lines are hard edges, the rest are soft edges)
This is the way I can achieve the right bevel, but as I said it ruins the mesh and doesn't work well for sculpting.
(no smoothing
(smoothed, and how I want it to look)
I've only found tutorials with people using Max, so I really need some help from people creating lowpoly items in maya, and exporting them to mudbox or zbrush.
Just wanted to jump in here and say i have been trying to help penOr with the above problem and im just not sure where to find the option in maya. My thoughts were it looks like maya is maintaining the border edges on subdivision and only on the edges that have been set to hard.
Any maya users aware of an option that changes that? or even better that im completely wrong and its something entirely different
I'm not using maya, but if you want the bottom one to work with sculping its easy you just need to get some more edges in there. Also here's an quick example to make sure you got a correct high poly edges for your model:
Well I got an update on my Witch doctor set, going to redo the head piece and probbaly also the belt/cloth. Not really liking the result from the bottom part I'm also thinking of making teh red a bit less saturated and a more purple color.
Hntr - really liking what you did with pudge, i found it rough concepting out pudge set ideas but you nailed it.
Hawt - i like it, thos stripes are a nice addition
Inside - the generic Warlock flames and smoke should be added to your staff automatically, and im not aware of a way to add particles yet.
And im finding its great motivation to post updates everyday on the lich set im working on, especially when its moving a little slower than i would like.
I spent most of the time i had on this today testing his neck slot in game and adjusting the weights, Lich flails his head around a fair bit which doesn't make things easy but its looking like with a few small adjustments and more time spent painting weights i can get it to work ok.
I also sculpted a little more detail into his belt slot and made the lowest lod - i wont have much time tomorrow but hopfully i can bang some bakes out and get it in game for a first look.
First I'd clean your geometry up a bit as suggested at the top. I'm not 100% sure what the issue is your trying to fix but I think what your getting at is this:
This takes "smoothing groups" out of account when using the maya smooth function so you should get the same result as when preview smoothed (3). Just adding divisions in zbrush can do this for you though also.
Awesome stuff in this thread everyone! I've had people tell me I should be making stuff for DOTA2 so I figured give it a shot. I don't have much of an idea what I'm doing at the moment. But I'm figuring it out. This is the high poly for a weapon (or hopefully pair if I can sort that out) I'm making for Riki. Any advice or crits would be awesome. Keep up the awesome work in here!
Yeah, riki is a small hero, with really tiny knives, all those great details wouldn't show up at all on him. Try to pick a hero with a big weapon for that.
Andyk & IEatApples - I'm trying to find the right way to turn my lowpoly into a highpoly using maya, so if I was doing it correctly with adding edge loops on areas I want to bevel then that's good, I just need to clean up my geometry better.
I was asking about the hard edge/soft edge thing because reading Lenny's tutorial using max he uses smoothing groups and turbosmooth to make his highpoly. If maya's equivalent is adding edge loops and not using hard or soft edges, that's cool I just want to know that it's the right way!
Awesome stuff in this thread everyone! I've had people tell me I should be making stuff for DOTA2 so I figured give it a shot. I don't have much of an idea what I'm doing at the moment. But I'm figuring it out. This is the high poly for a weapon (or hopefully pair if I can sort that out) I'm making for Riki. Any advice or crits would be awesome. Keep up the awesome work in here!
yay, another guy to knock us out! nice to have you here =]
mrpresident & zicoV thanks for the tips! I looked into it. I think I'm going to rework the hilt some and make this for Skeleton King instead of Riki. Maybe do some dead looking wood.
First I'd clean your geometry up a bit as suggested at the top. I'm not 100% sure what the issue is your trying to fix but I think what your getting at is this:
This takes "smoothing groups" out of account when using the maya smooth function so you should get the same result as when preview smoothed (3). Just adding divisions in zbrush can do this for you though also.
I think that's what your getting at?
Hey thanks apples, almost the solution but i think the problems still kicking. I made a quick pictures to help explain whats going on
In the maya version its smoothing ok, but the boundary edges remain in the original shape of the base mesh, even though the interior is being smoothed. While the max version maintains the hard crease of the blades edge and creates a smooth curve, which is what we are looking for.
Hey thanks apples, almost the solution but i think the problems still kicking. I made a quick pictures to help explain whats going on
In the maya version its smoothing ok, but the boundary edges remain in the original shape of the base mesh, even though the interior is being smoothed. While the max version maintains the hard crease of the blades edge and creates a smooth curve, which is what we are looking for.
I would use edge creasing instead of softening/hardening. You can select the edges you want to crease and go Edit Mesh - > Crease Tool (also found in the Shift + Right Click marking menu). Once you enter Crease mode, Middle Mouse Click and drag to the right to set the hardness. That will give you the edges you're looking for.
Working on a bat mount for the batrider. Based more off fruit bats/ flying foxes with a plated armor thing. I tried to mimic the symbol he has on his helm on the wing armor. I'm not sure if it works or not.
Any input that could help would be greatly appreciated!
Working on a bat mount for the batrider. Based more off fruit bats/ flying foxes with a plated armor thing. I tried to mimic the symbol he has on his helm on the wing armor. I'm not sure if it works or not.
Any input that could help would be greatly appreciated!
I had this hairstyle reference sitting in a folder for a while and it screamed "Windrunner" so I decided to make it quickly. I added the Leafy bow to break up the dota camera view of the back of the head, but it didn't turn out to be very visible.
I've had more success with single items than sets so I might stick to doing of those for a while. Less time investment and less design involved are both good things imo.
You'll hate me for that, but here i go. So, i guess nobody told you that your values are kinda too bright all the way. Model seriously lack topdown darkening (partly because it makes sense for white animal to be dirty at the bottom)
Check out the original mount to know what i mean:
Also, as you can see that your mount is turning plain white, also the patches of even brighter fur don't help. It needs more details, like more defined muscles, darker claws and maybe some dark tips on the fur patches.
Check out this unfinished snow leopard courier by Valve, to see how they work with white on white:
The white is never white, but rather grey. Also, there's some blue color bleeding from the patches
I think Vlad is right, but I think it looks pretty good. i can't do any better.
But it's hard to see how it will look top down, because the ingame shots are a bit small.
I did some more work on my witch doctor set, going to make a different mask, which fits the character better. Let me know what you guys think. I will try to post some ingame pictures one these days.
Replies
Will do both head variants and let the Workshop decide which it wants. Horse gear will stay default.
As is, not particularly thrilled with the set, but I can't seem to eke out anything better. Wish I had your speed concepting abilities, Anuxi!
C&C, as always, is welcome.
that hair will look amazing in game =]
Aianov, that KotL is looking really nice.
Did you have any problems with the skinbind? Which bones did you bind to? I am experiencing problems with the back legs on my mount.
Maybe Bronto could tell which which bones he used also?
Strange enough i had no problems when i forgot to use the backbones but i want to use all four legs
Progress on my warlock staff. First time doing hand painted and something this low res,
Edit:
I have question. Is it possible to add particles effect ? I wanted to add some smoke/fire effect to globe on staff, but dunno how to do it and if it is even possible.
I wanna render out a lightmap with pointlights in blender. The dota2 textureguide recommends something with good specular highlights. Anyone got a good couple of settings for that under blender?
I want to achieve a nice bevel on edges (like Lenny achieved with smoothing groups and turbosmooth), but the only way I can achieve this in maya is by adding edge loops on my lowpoly on either side of the edge I want to bevel. I get the shape I want but it ruins the mesh for sculpting.
Here are some pictures for explanation.
(on the low poly, solid lines are hard edges, the rest are soft edges)
This is the way I can achieve the right bevel, but as I said it ruins the mesh and doesn't work well for sculpting.
(no smoothing
(smoothed, and how I want it to look)
I've only found tutorials with people using Max, so I really need some help from people creating lowpoly items in maya, and exporting them to mudbox or zbrush.
Thank you in advance if anyone can help!
Any maya users aware of an option that changes that? or even better that im completely wrong and its something entirely different
Well I got an update on my Witch doctor set, going to redo the head piece and probbaly also the belt/cloth. Not really liking the result from the bottom part
Hntr - really liking what you did with pudge, i found it rough concepting out pudge set ideas but you nailed it.
Hawt - i like it, thos stripes are a nice addition
Inside - the generic Warlock flames and smoke should be added to your staff automatically, and im not aware of a way to add particles yet.
And im finding its great motivation to post updates everyday on the lich set im working on, especially when its moving a little slower than i would like.
I spent most of the time i had on this today testing his neck slot in game and adjusting the weights, Lich flails his head around a fair bit which doesn't make things easy but its looking like with a few small adjustments and more time spent painting weights i can get it to work ok.
I also sculpted a little more detail into his belt slot and made the lowest lod - i wont have much time tomorrow but hopfully i can bang some bakes out and get it in game for a first look.
First I'd clean your geometry up a bit as suggested at the top. I'm not 100% sure what the issue is your trying to fix but I think what your getting at is this:
This takes "smoothing groups" out of account when using the maya smooth function so you should get the same result as when preview smoothed (3). Just adding divisions in zbrush can do this for you though also.
I think that's what your getting at?
But maybe it doesnt fit riki as much as it would fit another hero, e.g. skeleton king.
first one is the weapon
I was asking about the hard edge/soft edge thing because reading Lenny's tutorial using max he uses smoothing groups and turbosmooth to make his highpoly. If maya's equivalent is adding edge loops and not using hard or soft edges, that's cool I just want to know that it's the right way!
Check out the lore on the heroes and maybe you can get some inspiration for your items
yay, another guy to knock us out! nice to have you here =]
:thumbup:
(actually i am over the moon)
Hey thanks apples, almost the solution but i think the problems still kicking. I made a quick pictures to help explain whats going on
In the maya version its smoothing ok, but the boundary edges remain in the original shape of the base mesh, even though the interior is being smoothed. While the max version maintains the hard crease of the blades edge and creates a smooth curve, which is what we are looking for.
That's how I felt today
Congratz to everyone
I would use edge creasing instead of softening/hardening. You can select the edges you want to crease and go Edit Mesh - > Crease Tool (also found in the Shift + Right Click marking menu). Once you enter Crease mode, Middle Mouse Click and drag to the right to set the hardness. That will give you the edges you're looking for.
congrats guys!
Spent the day making an SK weapon.
http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=129944454
Any input that could help would be greatly appreciated!
I also like that it's a fruit bat or as we in Australia call them 'bats' haha.
Can i have this weird material? It makes me think like there's a little channel distortion.
That looks incredible!
That batrider mount looks awesome
i have the same feeling, that is brutal! =]
maybe a little smaller will be perfect
http://www.difficultyunlimited.com/images/Dota2_contest_charAlphaList.jpg
First mount i ever make and yes i like to clutter up my promoscreens with tacky brushes
I've had more success with single items than sets so I might stick to doing of those for a while. Less time investment and less design involved are both good things imo.
Check out the original mount to know what i mean:
Also, as you can see that your mount is turning plain white, also the patches of even brighter fur don't help. It needs more details, like more defined muscles, darker claws and maybe some dark tips on the fur patches.
Check out this unfinished snow leopard courier by Valve, to see how they work with white on white:
The white is never white, but rather grey. Also, there's some blue color bleeding from the patches
But it's hard to see how it will look top down, because the ingame shots are a bit small.
I did some more work on my witch doctor set, going to make a different mask, which fits the character better. Let me know what you guys think. I will try to post some ingame pictures one these days.