I'm not sure if this is difficult enough to ask here, but I figure I won't make a thread for something so minimal.
I am trying to model this sign out for a lowpoly object, I wan't to chamfer the edges, but I am not sure on the poper topolgy that will allow me to do that, while not making triangles, and not adding more polygons than needed.
Easiest way to do that sign would be this: Draw out a cube over the largest rectangle (top left corner to bottom right corner where the red dot by the N is saloon is). Cut vertically down on both sides and extrude out the second rectangle shape. Now make a cut vertically down the middle, move the bottom edges out and bevel them for the rounded area. Then clean up topology.
Would be easier to use SubD than bevelling too I imagine?
You are thinking to hard into it Taco, that is a really simple shape.
I did it similar to how Bek described it. If you need to sub-d the model then add your support loops, if you need a low poly then collapse all those edge running down the middle.
Thanks for the replies guys. The image I posted previously was just one of the routes I tried to take to make the shape have good topology for the LP.
Here is my HP, and a low poly outlining what I can't really wrap my head around .
What I am really unsure of is, if I (from top edge to lowest) chamfer this one, I have nothing that connects them to anything , is this acceptable for a LP? Or will I run into issues inside UDK? The next edge I can chamfer the edge, but then I get this ugly Ngon. Finally the lowest edge I can chamfer this + the support loops, but then I get another ugly Ngon and more polygons which I don't want or need.
Basically I want to chamfer these edges for the lowpoly not to have 90 degree edges/look pointed. I also want to chamfer so I don't have to break ever 90 degree angle when I unwrap it. Should I just bite, and break every 90 degree during the unwrap? Or is there a way to chamfer the edges and not get crappy topology.
Sorry for the long post, I really appreciate the help . Thanks.
I need help yet again. I am always having problems with curved surfaced having other stuff extruded out. I know mostly the problem is MOAR GEO, I already added more geometry but I still can't figure out how to model that nice and clean and I need help!
I want to model this are of my current steyr aug model:
This is how I started:
I already did some tryouts but nothing seems to work and I always get ugly pinching and smoothing errors.
hamzaaa, I am not sure what part you modeled already but it might be best to start over. Get the big shapes with separate geometry, then use that as a proxy to model over. You are probably going to have to use a combination of patching in geometry and booleans to build it. It might just take a lot of trial and error to figure it out.
Hi guys, i begging to model this simple sound system, but i would like to work all in Sub-D, so i recently did the subwoofer, less the back which has a lot of tiny things.(i'll do soon) but then i did the small speaker, and i tried to minimize the polycount, and encounter that has to many unnecessary polygons and loops, because the back has holes on it. Hope you guys give me some advices to customize this thing, without using bevel and stuff like that.
if you are modelling with Subd, your polycount doesn't matter.
(obviously, don't overdo it, putting 3 subdivisions on a very tiny screw that is a 100 times on your object wouldn't be to smart).
If I am reading your post correctly, what you are trying to do is basicly a waste of time.
Joeriv, thanks. I'm not planning for example do the screws inside the main box model, all those are gonna be separated from the speakers and all the things i can do that way, too.
But in the speakers that holes i model, obviously are need for the sake of the model itself; i just wanted to know if there's a way to minimize the polycount connecting the edges in another way to obtain the same result and that is not necessary to see those loops on the front of the speaker which do nothing really. But i understand what your saying, thank you.
(sorry for my english)
Tenshi, something you should always ask yourself, do I really need to have it as one mesh? Because its not necessary and you can save yourself so much headache by making it into separate objects, such as the box and the front panel.
So if I was you, I would just separate the front part as a separate mesh of its own, then you only have to worry about making the hole in the front of the box. This way you also gets more freedom with your loops, and it will also make it easier to UV unwrap it (if you don't want to make a lowpoly for it).
Tenshi, something you should always ask yourself, do I really need to have it as one mesh? Because its not necessary and you can save yourself so much headache by making it into separate objects, such as the box and the front panel.
So if I was you, I would just separate the front part as a separate mesh of its own, then you only have to worry about making the hole in the front of the box. This way you also gets more freedom with your loops, and it will also make it easier to UV unwrap it (if you don't want to make a lowpoly for it).
Yes i noticed that, thanks.
But there are parts in this model i could do that; the front for example, all the pieces i have are separated, the little holes, the frame,; look at the picture i attached; as you can see the base box is something i can't separate for the sake of having those round edges and continuity in the mesh.
I might misunderstand you, but this is what I meant, detach the green front so you didn't need those edges:
No need for those loops for example. Also, triangles doesn't really do any damage if the are on a flat surface, because the main issue with triangles in subd, is that they often introduce pinching, but it shouldn't happen as much on flat surfaces, so you could collapse some of the edges around the loops, if you really need to trim down you highpoly mesh:
MrGreed, thank you for the advices. About the subwoofer, i had that part detach already(is just that in the picture you can't see), the loops there in fact are my bad, because i had holes inside too, i model this thinking the wrong way like it was a real piece with all the details interior/exterior, but as you mention before, that's something i would not see most of the time on the camera, so i'll fix that soon.
About the triangles thank you!
Hey folks I am having problems extruding out the two clickwheels it marked in red. I don't know how to do it in a clean way. My cylinder of the scope is cut in half but as a full cylinder it has 34 sides. Did I start out with too many sides? How can the extrusion be done in a nice clean way?
Been so long since ive been in the gun game, don't remember that much
buttttt I managed to do this once before and have been spending the last 2 hours trying to figure it out.. I need the edge loops on the slide hook things but they deform the part above it
respawn, how do you get that shading in blender?
edit: lol i figured it out. The topology wasnt that wrong other than those triangles but it was the way I went about making it, oh the joys of learning blender
How do you just 'add more geo'? Remake the entire thing? Is there a way to add more edges to a cylinder after its already editable and not be a loop cut?
i personally make a cilinder or other primitive with enough loops to hold and then i bridge to the rest of the model and on plain surface i make t-junction or ngone
i personally make a cilinder or other primitive with enough loops to hold and then i bridge to the rest of the model and on plain surface i make t-junction or ngone
So for example: Instead of adding an 8 sided cylinder/circle, add a 12 or 32 sided cylinder or circle which will have far more naturally occurring support edges. You can add more geo in, however I wouldn't advise doing it on complex curved surfaces - generally pre-plan what it is you're going to build and recognize what it is you're going to need to do to achieve that target.
not sure about blender, but on max with swift loop and maya with insert edge loop you can have it try and maintain the curvature when adding edge loops.
but normally if i need more geo, i jsut remake that section, with a primitive that has what i need.
What passerby said. Swiftloop in Max is great tool for that but most of the time it doesn't work out 100% or simply doesn't work correctly. Mostly such parts have to be redone. Sad but true, I experience that quiet often tbh xD
I've got a topology problem... How can I change the half circle shape at the end of the sphere? It doesn't really look that good when you apply subsurf. I realise that I could just cut the sphere in half the other way so that the circular "end" area would be on top but that's not possible in this case, I need to cut it exactly like you see in the pictures
so, anyone got any sphere-topology tricks up their sleeves? I could really use some help
Trying using an icosphere or cube - (Cube only) add a subd modifier (1 level) - apply it and go into edit mode - delete half the mesh - select each edge loop and add a spherize modifier - mirror mesh and weld together - add subd modifier and you now have an all quad sphere.
Or try using a sphere with less loops - try an 8 sided sphere and terminate the ends in quads for example...
Let the subd do the work for you :P
Sphere connect:
All:
And with a bit of tweaking with the scale button:
Voila!
Ok, I did this in like 3 minutes so it's not great but it may help. The trick is not to be too anal about your topology or triangles - mash in the shape AND THEN work cleaning up the mesh. Atleast that's how I would go about it.
Thanks cookedpeanut, I will try the method you suggested and try and get some nice results with it. I tend to avoid tris like the devil and usually end up taking a long time on simple forms just to get it all quads, I'll try how you suggested
ps no chance you have an unsmoothed version of that mesh? cant quite see the edge flow on the side
It's one of those things, if it looks good then job done...
When I say use triangles, obviously use them within reason - placing them everywhere and anywhere won't get you far and will just complicate things.
However sometimes they can't be avoided, so instead of fighting them, work with them - add supporting edges, shift edge loops around and add in the necessary topology to work around them.
I'm afraid I scrapped the file after I made the example, sorry - I did it quickly and didn't think to remove the modifier...
But it really isn't hard, do the top section and then work your way down by extruding out the edges.
Use a cut tool to add in some custom edge loops and play around with the form.
hey guys looking for some quick help. I remember this technique with the bend modifier to easily create cylindrical detail but I don't remember how to cap it.
edit: after some collaboration I came to a solution! also thanks to alexcatmastersupreme.
hey guys looking for some quick help. I remember this technique with the bend modifier to easily create cylindrical detail but I don't remember how to cap it.
edit: after some collaboration I came to a solution! also thanks to alexcatmastersupreme.
I think it's time I change my name to something less absurd. Not too much though, and you're welcome.
I really need help with this, it looks ok at the moment, but I know there must be a much cleaner way of doing this as there are quite a few issues. The scale is massively off from the refrence so I need to re-do it anyway. I basically booleaned in some cylinders and tried to clean up as best I could.
desktoppirate
i would say off hand that you need more geo going lonways around the object.. I would also post a smooth version so we can see where its causing you problems after smoothing
Replies
Try searching for "pelican case"
https://www.google.com/search?q=pelican+case&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=qyWwUNPrFeOM2gWF54GoBA&biw=1920&bih=1087&sei=ryWwUNbrCKWl2AXgz4GIBg
I am trying to model this sign out for a lowpoly object, I wan't to chamfer the edges, but I am not sure on the poper topolgy that will allow me to do that, while not making triangles, and not adding more polygons than needed.
Here is the problem.
Would be easier to use SubD than bevelling too I imagine?
I did it similar to how Bek described it. If you need to sub-d the model then add your support loops, if you need a low poly then collapse all those edge running down the middle.
Here is my HP, and a low poly outlining what I can't really wrap my head around .
What I am really unsure of is, if I (from top edge to lowest) chamfer this one, I have nothing that connects them to anything , is this acceptable for a LP? Or will I run into issues inside UDK? The next edge I can chamfer the edge, but then I get this ugly Ngon. Finally the lowest edge I can chamfer this + the support loops, but then I get another ugly Ngon and more polygons which I don't want or need.
Basically I want to chamfer these edges for the lowpoly not to have 90 degree edges/look pointed. I also want to chamfer so I don't have to break ever 90 degree angle when I unwrap it. Should I just bite, and break every 90 degree during the unwrap? Or is there a way to chamfer the edges and not get crappy topology.
Sorry for the long post, I really appreciate the help . Thanks.
I need help yet again. I am always having problems with curved surfaced having other stuff extruded out. I know mostly the problem is MOAR GEO, I already added more geometry but I still can't figure out how to model that nice and clean and I need help!
I want to model this are of my current steyr aug model:
This is how I started:
I already did some tryouts but nothing seems to work and I always get ugly pinching and smoothing errors.
(obviously, don't overdo it, putting 3 subdivisions on a very tiny screw that is a 100 times on your object wouldn't be to smart).
If I am reading your post correctly, what you are trying to do is basicly a waste of time.
But in the speakers that holes i model, obviously are need for the sake of the model itself; i just wanted to know if there's a way to minimize the polycount connecting the edges in another way to obtain the same result and that is not necessary to see those loops on the front of the speaker which do nothing really. But i understand what your saying, thank you.
(sorry for my english)
So if I was you, I would just separate the front part as a separate mesh of its own, then you only have to worry about making the hole in the front of the box. This way you also gets more freedom with your loops, and it will also make it easier to UV unwrap it (if you don't want to make a lowpoly for it).
Yes i noticed that, thanks.
But there are parts in this model i could do that; the front for example, all the pieces i have are separated, the little holes, the frame,; look at the picture i attached; as you can see the base box is something i can't separate for the sake of having those round edges and continuity in the mesh.
No need for those loops for example. Also, triangles doesn't really do any damage if the are on a flat surface, because the main issue with triangles in subd, is that they often introduce pinching, but it shouldn't happen as much on flat surfaces, so you could collapse some of the edges around the loops, if you really need to trim down you highpoly mesh:
About the triangles thank you!
Thanks in advance!
buttttt I managed to do this once before and have been spending the last 2 hours trying to figure it out.. I need the edge loops on the slide hook things but they deform the part above it
respawn, how do you get that shading in blender?
edit: lol i figured it out. The topology wasnt that wrong other than those triangles but it was the way I went about making it, oh the joys of learning blender
How do you just 'add more geo'? Remake the entire thing? Is there a way to add more edges to a cylinder after its already editable and not be a loop cut?
i personally make a cilinder or other primitive with enough loops to hold and then i bridge to the rest of the model and on plain surface i make t-junction or ngone
So for example: Instead of adding an 8 sided cylinder/circle, add a 12 or 32 sided cylinder or circle which will have far more naturally occurring support edges. You can add more geo in, however I wouldn't advise doing it on complex curved surfaces - generally pre-plan what it is you're going to build and recognize what it is you're going to need to do to achieve that target.
but normally if i need more geo, i jsut remake that section, with a primitive that has what i need.
really easy in maya, just constrain to one axis ,and hold C and drag it onto the curve.
so, anyone got any sphere-topology tricks up their sleeves? I could really use some help
Or try using a sphere with less loops - try an 8 sided sphere and terminate the ends in quads for example...
Let the subd do the work for you :P
Sphere connect:
All:
And with a bit of tweaking with the scale button:
Voila!
ps no chance you have an unsmoothed version of that mesh? cant quite see the edge flow on the side
When I say use triangles, obviously use them within reason - placing them everywhere and anywhere won't get you far and will just complicate things.
However sometimes they can't be avoided, so instead of fighting them, work with them - add supporting edges, shift edge loops around and add in the necessary topology to work around them.
I'm afraid I scrapped the file after I made the example, sorry - I did it quickly and didn't think to remove the modifier...
But it really isn't hard, do the top section and then work your way down by extruding out the edges.
Use a cut tool to add in some custom edge loops and play around with the form.
And remember - always use MORE GEO!
Or one of these on a shirt.
edit: after some collaboration I came to a solution! also thanks to alexcatmastersupreme.
I think it's time I change my name to something less absurd. Not too much though, and you're welcome.
I've just started with serious sub-d and have come upon a problem best described by a picture:
I'd like the edges in red and the ones on the other side to smooth nicely, but they just stay sharp.
thank you for your help
i would say off hand that you need more geo going lonways around the object.. I would also post a smooth version so we can see where its causing you problems after smoothing