I guess I got the big shapes out of the way, anytipes on getting those litle details in there?
Also, the bubbled up pieces near the bottom.
The handle indents, little lines, squares, indents all around is what I am hoping for help with. I am not sure if my topo is acceptable I was just going to make this a low poly, but if someone can aid me on proper topo to subD it, that would be sweet.
In that middle you have an ngon, if you plan to turbosmooth it you have no support loops, it wil collapse onto its self.
For the details most of it if not all can be done using floating geo.
Also if this was for a game you'd want most of those details to be from a normal map.
I hope this is appropriate for this thread. It's certainly not as exciting or advanced as most of the puzzles in here.
I'm very new to 3D and have been learning Max for less than a week. I'm trying to model some objects for practice and am getting utterly defeated by my Maglite flashlight here.
The button switch sits inside of a recessed ellipse and looks something like this. The part that I just cannot figure out is how to cleanly connect this "bowl" shape to the cylindrical surface of the flashlight. The most success I've had is manually cutting out a rough elliptical shape directly on the surface of the cylinder and then beveling that inwards to create the depression, but that was all guesswork and the shape wasn't "perfect".
I would be very thankful if someone could explain or show a process for doing this properly (plainer the language, the better. I am still learning the nomenclature and tools). I would be extra grateful for hinting as to how I might then incorporate the actual rounded button into this structure as well, since it seems to be a similar problem.
Thanks
edit- Mini bonus question: I'm trying to get a handle on the idea of "quadness", and I can't say I fully understand why it's important, but I understand it's considered good practice to keep all of your shapes as quadrilaterals. You can see in the top view that I've got a big ugly n-gon shape up there on the end of the battery cap. How might I resolve that into a more proper set of edges?
I hope this is appropriate for this thread. It's certainly not as exciting or advanced as most of the puzzles in here.
I'm very new to 3D and have been learning Max for less than a week. I'm trying to model some objects for practice and am getting utterly defeated by my Maglite flashlight here.
The button switch sits inside of a recessed ellipse and looks something like this. The part that I just cannot figure out is how to cleanly connect this "bowl" shape to the cylindrical surface of the flashlight. The most success I've had is manually cutting out a rough elliptical shape directly on the surface of the cylinder and then beveling that inwards to create the depression, but that was all guesswork and the shape wasn't "perfect".
I would be very thankful if someone could explain or show a process for doing this properly (plainer the language, the better. I am still learning the nomenclature and tools). I would be extra grateful for hinting as to how I might then incorporate the actual rounded button into this structure as well, since it seems to be a similar problem.
Thanks
edit- Mini bonus question: I'm trying to get a handle on the idea of "quadness", and I can't say I fully understand why it's important, but I understand it's considered good practice to keep all of your shapes as quadrilaterals. You can see in the top view that I've got a big ugly n-gon shape up there on the end of the battery cap. How might I resolve that into a more proper set of edges?
It really depends what you're doing, if it's for a low poly game asset it doesn't need to connect, instead, you should make it what is called floating geo. If you'd like I could make a half hour tutorial tomorrow about creating a high poly flashlight and talk about why you do what you do and whatnot.
A video tutorial would be amazing. I gave the video you linked a watch and found it helpful-- I never realized that you could "cheat" on a high poly model when making a normal map like that, but I guess it makes sense given that a map is ultimately just 2D image, so tricks of perspective still work. Hopefully I'm not completely misunderstanding that.
A video tutorial would be amazing. I gave the video you linked a watch and found it helpful-- I never realized that you could "cheat" on a high poly model when making a normal map like that, but I guess it makes sense given that a map is ultimately just 2D image, so tricks of perspective still work. Hopefully I'm not completely misunderstanding that.
No problem man, I'll make it tomorrow and PM you a link!
So this problem has been consistent with me for a long time, and I can't figure out how to do it cleanly for the life of me.
So I don't know how to go about cleanly welding or putting together meshes where it's complex geometry hitting complex geometry, and this happens a lot to me when I'm modeling (specifically for low res since high res can clip and intercept all it wants to)
Case in point:
I've talked to other people, and they said boolean difference it, but as per expectation, the boolean freaks out and deletes all selected objects. I don't know how to tackle these sort of intersections efficiently and with good technique.
I ended up doing this to another similar place, but it's so messy.
Panda it's hard to tell exactly what you're trying to do, but I think you need to learn some basics, you don't have quads and some ngons. Post some better views on what you're doing. Also here is that tutorial I made for Jtho [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zjW0D_Gbrg"]3ds Max Basics: Modeling and Rendering - YouTube[/ame]
So are you trying to subdivide that?
You dont have any suppport loops and tons of tris.
That will not smooth.
I can't tell what you are trying to do :P
I'm just confused I'm not trying to be rude.
So this particular picture is of the low poly of the high res structure that is not pictured (all intended to be a game asset). High Res, I can intercept geometry and stuff no problem, since it's only going to act as the Normal Map bake.
what befuddles me as an incompetent 3D artist is how to tackle issues of welding together complex (low res mind you) geometry when it's interacting (be it intercepting, one on top of the other, etc) with other low res, complex geometry. I know there's a better practice to this, including this particular situation in the ScreenShot, I just don't know what it is.
So this particular picture is of the low poly of the high res structure that is not pictured (all intended to be a game asset). High Res, I can intercept geometry and stuff no problem, since it's only going to act as the Normal Map bake.
what befuddles me as an incompetent 3D artist is how to tackle issues of welding together complex (low res mind you) geometry when it's interacting (be it intercepting, one on top of the other, etc) with other low res, complex geometry. I know there's a better practice to this, including this particular situation in the ScreenShot, I just don't know what it is.
Well for one thing you have a lot of tris that are not good, and you dont need to weld all the parts togethere, you can have intersecting geometry. In fact it would reduce your polycount greatly.
I would make it just go through your cylinder then delete everything after it. This will keep it clean and much less polys.
But there is no reason to at all, not that I can see, the mesh is full of triangles and a lot of useless edges, I mean he is asking for a higher poly count for no reason that I can see. You can intersect it if you'd like in the mesh, I could see what I can do, the thing is you need to make them both really low poly.
To be honest I can't make a good high poly intersecting set of cylinders perfectly, I can show you but it will have a some pinching, it depends on how many edges you start with, like this, I bet someone can give you a better example.
Ignore the large amount cap segments at the end, I'm lazy. It's almost 4 am.
Hope this helps! If you do it that way it will smooth well minus the edge loops, there are other ways to do it.
Ok, I need some help with this puzzle. I'm hoping it's something simple..
Revolver barrel. No nGons. Modo 501.
Polygons:
SubD with no edges, showing issues better:
So as you can see, I'm having problems with these seams... any idea why they are happening / how I can fix them? Also, if I do not bevel the edges that form the inset part of the barrel, but DO add a loop very close behind this area, I get a shading seam. No idea why. Here's a picture: http://i.imgur.com/FMMLu.png (left is render, right is the loop selected). However if the loop is further back it does not create a seam.
Ok, I need some help with this puzzle. I'm hoping it's something simple..
Revolver barrel. No nGons. Modo 501.
*snip*
So as you can see, I'm having problems with these seams... any idea why they are happening / how I can fix them? Also, if I do not bevel the edges that form the inset part of the barrel, but DO add a loop very close behind this area, I get a shading seam. No idea why. Here's a picture: http://i.imgur.com/FMMLu.png (left is render, right is the loop selected). However if the loop is further back it does not create a seam.
Any help would be awesome.
You need to increase the number of sides for the object so that it can support the details without pinching. Increase the number of sides so that each side is around the same size as the support loops that you have now and it won't pinch any more.
You need to increase the number of sides for the object so that it can support the details without pinching. Increase the number of sides so that each side is around the same size as the support loops that you have now and it won't pinch any more.
This was good advice, I am curious, how many sides, because doesn't that make it more difficult to manipulate, that has been one of my questions.
Also revolver guy, your edges are too tight, even if it wasn't a game prop, it wouldn't look like metal as the edges are so hard.
Like Andy said, You add as many as it takes until the width between edges is the same is it would be with support loops (So that you don't need to add them and the pinching they would cause). Classic 'need more GEO' problem.
Not everything in subd is elegant or easy to manipulate. If you want to keep things manageable, split your complex pieces from the others into separate elements at their respective subd level.
Like Andy said, You add as many as it takes until the width between edges is the same is it would be with support loops (So that you don't need to add them and the pinching they would cause). Classic 'need more GEO' problem.
Not everything in subd is elegant or easy to manipulate. If you want to keep things manageable, split your complex pieces from the others into separate elements at their respective subd level.
That makes a lot of sense then, but then lets say, for example, my post with the two intersecting tubes, if I made one 8 sides, and one 6 I could then mix them with no problem, if that a correct example?
I've managed to fix a lot of problems in my mesh by simply trawling through this tread and using the tips posted, but I've come across a problem which I'm struggling with. I saw a post somewhere in here with pretty much the exact same question, but the only answers I saw were suggesting floating geo, which I don't want to do.
Here are the pics:
As you can see, the geo is pretty awful.
I was considering getting rid of this part of the mesh and redoing it flat, then bending it into shape, but I get the feeling that will give me trouble as well.
For now the main cockpit frame is connected to the plane's body, that's why I have those extra edge loops. I was thinking about maybe extracting the frame faces so I don't need those extra loops.
well
definitely extrude the frame ... I am guessing you mean have a separate piece of geometry for the frame. As a rule if its separate in real life it should be separate geo
Originally I did have it separate because I thought the whole thing opened to let the pilot in, but then I realized only the very top part of the cockpit opens up, so I thought I would make it one piece. But separating it might be better..
yeah man I understand that
you can....and I do this quite often with this type of stuff, is to model the lo version of that area, hit the turbo smooth and then collapse it and work with that mesh,
that why you have you base smooth consistent mesh with enough geo to usually cut all those panels
Hi guys. I've referenced this thread many times to help with modeling awkward shapes and topology. This isn't too odd, and probably wont bring a sweat out of the vets around here, But none the less, is an issue I'm stuck on. This is my 3rd project in max , Be gentle
I've tried path deform, from using a path pull off the end of the stock. But when i select the path to deform to, it (the path) rotates and doesn't line up with the original path location. Is it just a matter of rotating and tweaking the path? I've yet to get a perfect match with this method. And I'm not going to be thrilled with settling with anything less than the best i can do. So if anyone can share a method of how to bend this strip around the stock (end piece), I would really appreciate it! I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread, And i may have even skimmed passed it. I just want to ensure i get the best method to do it.
Alternatively, is it just a matter of having more geo on the original mesh and incorporating all the support loops into the curve "by hand" ? Maybe I'm looking for a trick that doesn't exist... Any who:
Hi there
im having a trouble with modeling 1 shape.Its a roof.
This is where im currently at:
I've worked out sketch earlier and stuff,can't scan the pic right now.
Anyway,i know the shape i want for the roof,i thought i'll make it,but im stuck.
Here's illustration of what i want to make with roof
Basically,i know i can draw the shape of the roof from sideview and then extrude it and i would get the shape i want.But,trick is that the roof,from top view,doesn't have the same "thickness" everywhere,so,extrude would just make it elongated,and i don't want it like that.
This is the shape from top view
I set bottom side flat,since it doesnt matter that much.But i can change it later because if i know how to change top side,then i can do it easily with bottom one.
What i was hopping to do is to use upper side polygon,inset it,then bevel,and do it all over again in small increments,then apply turbosmooth and the the fine looking top side.But,inset is doing some weird stuff,it refuses to "cut" into the shape,and he's making some spikes out of the shape.
Hi guys. I've referenced this thread many times to help with modeling awkward shapes and topology. This isn't too odd, and probably wont bring a sweat out of the vets around here, But none the less, is an issue I'm stuck on. This is my 3rd project in max , Be gentle
I've tried path deform, from using a path pull off the end of the stock. But when i select the path to deform to, it (the path) rotates and doesn't line up with the original path location. Is it just a matter of rotating and tweaking the path? I've yet to get a perfect match with this method. And I'm not going to be thrilled with settling with anything less than the best i can do. So if anyone can share a method of how to bend this strip around the stock (end piece), I would really appreciate it! I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread, And i may have even skimmed passed it. I just want to ensure i get the best method to do it.
Alternatively, is it just a matter of having more geo on the original mesh and incorporating all the support loops into the curve "by hand" ? Maybe I'm looking for a trick that doesn't exist... Any who:
Subdivide it and use a bend modifier.
I think you are trying to align the floater to the butt, I'd personally use a bend and position it, it's faster and easier to adjust.
Also make sure your floaters dont have 90 degree angles so they bake well.
Hi there
im having a trouble with modeling 1 shape.Its a roof.
This is where im currently at:
I've worked out sketch earlier and stuff,can't scan the pic right now.
Anyway,i know the shape i want for the roof,i thought i'll make it,but im stuck.
Here's illustration of what i want to make with roof
Basically,i know i can draw the shape of the roof from sideview and then extrude it and i would get the shape i want.But,trick is that the roof,from top view,doesn't have the same "thickness" everywhere,so,extrude would just make it elongated,and i don't want it like that.
This is the shape from top view
I set bottom side flat,since it doesnt matter that much.But i can change it later because if i know how to change top side,then i can do it easily with bottom one.
What i was hopping to do is to use upper side polygon,inset it,then bevel,and do it all over again in small increments,then apply turbosmooth and the the fine looking top side.But,inset is doing some weird stuff,it refuses to "cut" into the shape,and he's making some spikes out of the shape.
So,any ideas/suggestions?
This thread is for high poly modeling questions, this is more basic modeling stuff, but here you go, for what I think you are trying to do.
Subdivide it and use a bend modifier.
I think you are trying to align the floater to the butt, I'd personally use a bend and position it, it's faster and easier to adjust.
Also make sure your floaters dont have 90 degree angles so they bake well.
Yeah. That can get me pretty close, But I'd like it to follow the curve absolutely perfectly. if at all possible. I'll see how close i can get with bend.
And yeah, i know about the 90 degree angles ^^
Here is a orthographic of it smoothed. thats about the depth i want to bake. I'm just going to end up blacking the center of those out.
cut down version of something i wrote about edge bevels from another thread. it might help some people here:
edge thickness is simple: give each material a nice fat edge bevel with an appropriate width, and keep it consistent. what do i mean per material? well, metals will get a thinner highlight than plastics. no, this does NOT mean either should get sharp highlights, nor should they get soft ones; just that plastics should get a wider edge bevel than metals, they should be nice and fat all around. you can just tell when a model has a good edge treatment at a glance, since it catches much more light in all the right places, they look great in bakes and in untextured renders.
the most important thing right now is to even them out. go all around the item and try to make each edge of the metals an equal width, then do the same for the plastics etc.
next, if you want to take it one step further, try to eliminate the softness. it should only take 30 minutes tops to add in some extra geo which is very worth it. here's an image with a traditional "soft" edge cube, and on the right one with some extra geo to control the edges better. each cube is on 3x subdivision.
notice the highlight falloff? the left one (regular subd cube) makes the model feel amateurish--so you want the right one in most situations.
For now the main cockpit frame is connected to the plane's body, that's why I have those extra edge loops. I was thinking about maybe extracting the frame faces so I don't need those extra loops.
Hah!, A Beaufighter?
I made one of these a while ago, and the only real tip I can give you, is to cut a hole in the mesh itself and have the cylindrical insets going in as a floater.
You can kinda make it out here (I don't have the model on me at the moment to post the wires):
This was how they did it on the actual plane too (if that makes sense), here's a pic I took at the RAF museum in London about a week ago:
Give me a yell if you need any more refs, I took a heap of photos, mainly of areas I had difficulty with modelling, or couldn't find much referece of online.
Yeah. That can get me pretty close, But I'd like it to follow the curve absolutely perfectly. if at all possible. I'll see how close i can get with bend.
And yeah, i know about the 90 degree angles ^^
Here is a orthographic of it smoothed. that's about the depth i want to bake. I'm just going to end up blacking the center of those out.
*snip*
I discovered a trick that might help here while trying to wrap my head around modelling a wicker basket with a somewhat complex and rounded form. You may be familiar with nurbs, but either way, lemme see what I can throw together:
This shape could easily have been achieved with an FFD, but for more advanced ones it can be quite a lifesaver. Downside is you can't collapse the deformation. (possibly through export though?)
Oh, and don't delete the cv surface, nor should you move any of them separately, that would break the deformation.
Did you try collapsing using the "Collapse To" instead of "Collapse All" option on the Surf Deform modifier? Works for me on all WSM modifiers. Only disadvantage is that it collapses the whole stack, so you have to keep a backup if you want to change things later on.
Hi hard surface modellers. I am trying to force myself to learn this my modelling this door. I know the shape is a little blobby, but I am more concerned with the topology of both the door and the curved inset piece. Is this is a good approach for something curved like this? I would like to make the curved part floating geometry, but it is inset, so I have to cut a hole in my big base door mesh the exact size of my curved mesh? I attempted to do this which is shown in the last screenshot, but the topology is nightmarish. Is the obvious solution add more geo? Am I making this more complicated than it needs to be? Please see attached screenshots.
You have very high density, is that your lowpoly? or do you use turbosmooth? I keep my meshes as lowpoly as possible when doing highpoly so its easier and faster to change and not as much to mess upp. If its not your base mesh plz post it easier to see the edgeflow then.
What you have is good enough to do the job, pretty much. You don't need to cut a hole in the door mesh, just take the curved part and place it slightly above the door and the normal map will pick it up as if it were inset. No need to actually model it into the main part of the door.
What's a good approach to model this thing? Biggest issue for me is that the holes for the rockets arn't distributed evenly across the big outside cylinder and that there are so many close to each other.
Thanks a lot Onionman! Very helpful. I ended up hacking something together much less elegantly done but your tips are saved for future reference. Will need this again for sure sooner or later.
The curved inset piece is fairly deep, and if I place it slightly outside of the base door mesh, the flat part of the base door mesh covers the majority of the curved mesh. Im unsuccessfully trying to render a normal map right now.
Replies
In that middle you have an ngon, if you plan to turbosmooth it you have no support loops, it wil collapse onto its self.
For the details most of it if not all can be done using floating geo.
Also if this was for a game you'd want most of those details to be from a normal map.
I'm very new to 3D and have been learning Max for less than a week. I'm trying to model some objects for practice and am getting utterly defeated by my Maglite flashlight here.
The button switch sits inside of a recessed ellipse and looks something like this. The part that I just cannot figure out is how to cleanly connect this "bowl" shape to the cylindrical surface of the flashlight. The most success I've had is manually cutting out a rough elliptical shape directly on the surface of the cylinder and then beveling that inwards to create the depression, but that was all guesswork and the shape wasn't "perfect".
I would be very thankful if someone could explain or show a process for doing this properly (plainer the language, the better. I am still learning the nomenclature and tools). I would be extra grateful for hinting as to how I might then incorporate the actual rounded button into this structure as well, since it seems to be a similar problem.
Thanks
edit- Mini bonus question: I'm trying to get a handle on the idea of "quadness", and I can't say I fully understand why it's important, but I understand it's considered good practice to keep all of your shapes as quadrilaterals. You can see in the top view that I've got a big ugly n-gon shape up there on the end of the battery cap. How might I resolve that into a more proper set of edges?
It really depends what you're doing, if it's for a low poly game asset it doesn't need to connect, instead, you should make it what is called floating geo. If you'd like I could make a half hour tutorial tomorrow about creating a high poly flashlight and talk about why you do what you do and whatnot.
Quads:
I made a tutorial you can follow that will explain why it's important, that was one of my questions as well. [ame="
No problem man, I'll make it tomorrow and PM you a link!
So I don't know how to go about cleanly welding or putting together meshes where it's complex geometry hitting complex geometry, and this happens a lot to me when I'm modeling (specifically for low res since high res can clip and intercept all it wants to)
Case in point:
I've talked to other people, and they said boolean difference it, but as per expectation, the boolean freaks out and deletes all selected objects. I don't know how to tackle these sort of intersections efficiently and with good technique.
I ended up doing this to another similar place, but it's so messy.
Broken link man. Use imgur.com
So are you trying to subdivide that?
You dont have any suppport loops and tons of tris.
That will not smooth.
I can't tell what you are trying to do :P
I'm just confused I'm not trying to be rude.
what befuddles me as an incompetent 3D artist is how to tackle issues of welding together complex (low res mind you) geometry when it's interacting (be it intercepting, one on top of the other, etc) with other low res, complex geometry. I know there's a better practice to this, including this particular situation in the ScreenShot, I just don't know what it is.
I would make it just go through your cylinder then delete everything after it. This will keep it clean and much less polys.
This is also a hi-res thread lol:P
I hope that helps!
But there is no reason to at all, not that I can see, the mesh is full of triangles and a lot of useless edges, I mean he is asking for a higher poly count for no reason that I can see. You can intersect it if you'd like in the mesh, I could see what I can do, the thing is you need to make them both really low poly.
To be honest I can't make a good high poly intersecting set of cylinders perfectly, I can show you but it will have a some pinching, it depends on how many edges you start with, like this, I bet someone can give you a better example.
Ignore the large amount cap segments at the end, I'm lazy. It's almost 4 am.
Hope this helps! If you do it that way it will smooth well minus the edge loops, there are other ways to do it.
Revolver barrel. No nGons. Modo 501.
Polygons:
SubD with no edges, showing issues better:
So as you can see, I'm having problems with these seams... any idea why they are happening / how I can fix them? Also, if I do not bevel the edges that form the inset part of the barrel, but DO add a loop very close behind this area, I get a shading seam. No idea why. Here's a picture: http://i.imgur.com/FMMLu.png (left is render, right is the loop selected). However if the loop is further back it does not create a seam.
Any help would be awesome.
This was good advice, I am curious, how many sides, because doesn't that make it more difficult to manipulate, that has been one of my questions.
Also revolver guy, your edges are too tight, even if it wasn't a game prop, it wouldn't look like metal as the edges are so hard.
Not everything in subd is elegant or easy to manipulate. If you want to keep things manageable, split your complex pieces from the others into separate elements at their respective subd level.
That makes a lot of sense then, but then lets say, for example, my post with the two intersecting tubes, if I made one 8 sides, and one 6 I could then mix them with no problem, if that a correct example?
here is a tut to do the star at the bottom
I started with the star spline and turned to poly and extruded from there
I could have take the deforming further with soft selection as well.
enjoy
I've managed to fix a lot of problems in my mesh by simply trawling through this tread and using the tips posted, but I've come across a problem which I'm struggling with. I saw a post somewhere in here with pretty much the exact same question, but the only answers I saw were suggesting floating geo, which I don't want to do.
Here are the pics:
As you can see, the geo is pretty awful.
I was considering getting rid of this part of the mesh and redoing it flat, then bending it into shape, but I get the feeling that will give me trouble as well.
Thoughts?
but off the top of my head, more horizontal edges or bending is the way to go
For now the main cockpit frame is connected to the plane's body, that's why I have those extra edge loops. I was thinking about maybe extracting the frame faces so I don't need those extra loops.
definitely extrude the frame ... I am guessing you mean have a separate piece of geometry for the frame. As a rule if its separate in real life it should be separate geo
However, I'm thinking about just redoing the entire front section.
I found this image which really shows the form of the front/top, and my model doesn't really match it:
http://cdn-www.airliners.net/aviation-photos/photos/0/3/3/1089330.jpg
Plane bodies are such a headache. :<
you can....and I do this quite often with this type of stuff, is to model the lo version of that area, hit the turbo smooth and then collapse it and work with that mesh,
that why you have you base smooth consistent mesh with enough geo to usually cut all those panels
ok got in my head and decided to whip this test out
hope this helps
I used a turbosmotth of 2 btw
with more time I am sure you can get the shape better to
i just extrude the hole nothing special go on and then I tried a few shapes for fun
I've tried path deform, from using a path pull off the end of the stock. But when i select the path to deform to, it (the path) rotates and doesn't line up with the original path location. Is it just a matter of rotating and tweaking the path? I've yet to get a perfect match with this method. And I'm not going to be thrilled with settling with anything less than the best i can do. So if anyone can share a method of how to bend this strip around the stock (end piece), I would really appreciate it! I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread, And i may have even skimmed passed it. I just want to ensure i get the best method to do it.
Alternatively, is it just a matter of having more geo on the original mesh and incorporating all the support loops into the curve "by hand" ? Maybe I'm looking for a trick that doesn't exist... Any who:
(orthographic left view)
By s620 at 2012-06-28
(Smoothed)
By s620 at 2012-06-28
im having a trouble with modeling 1 shape.Its a roof.
This is where im currently at:
I've worked out sketch earlier and stuff,can't scan the pic right now.
Anyway,i know the shape i want for the roof,i thought i'll make it,but im stuck.
Here's illustration of what i want to make with roof
Basically,i know i can draw the shape of the roof from sideview and then extrude it and i would get the shape i want.But,trick is that the roof,from top view,doesn't have the same "thickness" everywhere,so,extrude would just make it elongated,and i don't want it like that.
This is the shape from top view
I set bottom side flat,since it doesnt matter that much.But i can change it later because if i know how to change top side,then i can do it easily with bottom one.
What i was hopping to do is to use upper side polygon,inset it,then bevel,and do it all over again in small increments,then apply turbosmooth and the the fine looking top side.But,inset is doing some weird stuff,it refuses to "cut" into the shape,and he's making some spikes out of the shape.
So,any ideas/suggestions?
Subdivide it and use a bend modifier.
I think you are trying to align the floater to the butt, I'd personally use a bend and position it, it's faster and easier to adjust.
Also make sure your floaters dont have 90 degree angles so they bake well.
This thread is for high poly modeling questions, this is more basic modeling stuff, but here you go, for what I think you are trying to do.
Yeah. That can get me pretty close, But I'd like it to follow the curve absolutely perfectly. if at all possible. I'll see how close i can get with bend.
And yeah, i know about the 90 degree angles ^^
Here is a orthographic of it smoothed. thats about the depth i want to bake. I'm just going to end up blacking the center of those out.
Thanks man.
really interested in just seeing the wirefram difference between the two
Hah!, A Beaufighter?
I made one of these a while ago, and the only real tip I can give you, is to cut a hole in the mesh itself and have the cylindrical insets going in as a floater.
You can kinda make it out here (I don't have the model on me at the moment to post the wires):
This was how they did it on the actual plane too (if that makes sense), here's a pic I took at the RAF museum in London about a week ago:
Give me a yell if you need any more refs, I took a heap of photos, mainly of areas I had difficulty with modelling, or couldn't find much referece of online.
Nice method btw. definitely useful
Thanks for sharing!
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By bwista at 2012-07-18
What you have is good enough to do the job, pretty much. You don't need to cut a hole in the door mesh, just take the curved part and place it slightly above the door and the normal map will pick it up as if it were inset. No need to actually model it into the main part of the door.
all these methods are for creating high poly. hope this helps
The curved inset piece is fairly deep, and if I place it slightly outside of the base door mesh, the flat part of the base door mesh covers the majority of the curved mesh. Im unsuccessfully trying to render a normal map right now.