Hey guys ! I don't understand...I thought my topo was good but I have some pinching on my mesh... Is there something wrong with my topology ? Can I avoid them ?
What igi is trying to say is that the reason you have pinching is because the flow or roundness of the hole is different from the rest of the main mesh. There's many ways to fix it, one being modeling the hole as a rectangle with proper support loops so the flat bits at the top and bottom get rounded. Another is to model It the way you did, but on a flat surface, then use bend modifier to get it rounded. Do read that article tho, there's a lot of good stuff in there that you can come back to if you get in trouble.
@Thanez Thank you for taking the time. So far, the top-down thinking on how to approach this stuff hasn't solidified yet. I understand the solutions given to me, but as soon as I'm in any case that's not identical, I seem to be unable to apply the concepts. It's too bad there aren't more 1:1 tutors for this stuff!
I tried to redo the big vertical holes using the bend technique but i got the same result...Does it means it just needs more resolution to work properly ?
@mverta no problem dude. All it takes is practice. Make different models with interesting shapes, and tackle all the little errors that show up.
@helinc IDK why that didn't work, that's weird. I see that you have a lot of supporting geometry for the hole which may be making problems for you since the surrounding geo is round. Try removing all but one of the support loops and see how that goes. That's what I did for this, but I overdid it like I overdo everything: http://skins.thanez.net/357/marmoset/
What I mean about throwing GEO at it, is that you simply chamfered the corners and the beveled edges. I added supporting loops that can be edited or even completely removed without affecting the original mesh. Chamfering absolutely helps with the smoothing as the angles of the edges are overall less harsh, but, and here's y Perna rages at MOARGEO: It didn't solve the problem (only alleviated the pain), instead of learning "y subd do wat it do" you crapped out with a destructive (read: non-reversible and non-editable) chamfer and you're still left with a messy mesh because you put even more verts on there that you didn't get to cap off properly. When you regret that later you're gonna have to remodel that part.
Put a glossy material on your model and some lights in the scene, and study your edges and the corners of the bevel, and you'll see what I mean #sorry if I come off as harsh, I'm kinda like perna but less good and more racist.
is there any problem in 3d modeling which you don't have simple solutions of?: ) Great tutorial. I was going same but without Itoo it is going to be hard to move it along the path. THanks
So I've been stuck on this for far longer than I would like to admit, and I need some assistance. I am trying to make a thing like a shoelace tied in a very specific manner in a pattern through the hilt of the sword.
Picture for reference:
I tried a few things but my best idea was manually twisting each face to a similar result, as you can see it is very ugly and unusable in any sense. I imagine this may be more easily done in a sculpting program, but I haven't started learning them yet. And yes I know that even the above abomination isn't even remotely close to the original, which is why I did not even try to work on the bottom cross. My approaches are obviously completely incorrect.
It is difficult for me to even explain the shape, but here are two videos of how they tie it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4XyR1q_xfs https://youtu.be/5PEwF5nuZd4?t=3m3s The paper thing in the second video is to hold the shape of the first half of the string while you cross the second half. There is some sort of sticky stuff on the string to keep the shape together. Here is a closeup. Of note is that the side of the string that is on the top alternates with every cross, because the pattern continues on the back side of the hilt with a small displacement.
I just can't see how one would do this in a reasonable manner, I'm guessing curves would be used to trace the form somehow but that still would not be very great.. All of this is done with a single piece of long string, and even if I were to just make one of the cross sections to duplicate (to add end pieces separately) I feel it is extremely difficult to get the shape correct if I am just manipulating individual edges, I am not sure how to work with the shape evenly/properly when it is like.. a bracelet-like shape with so many points&edges to offset for a single change in angle.
@redarchfiend . This might help you. http://prntscr.com/el3z88 Not done by me. You would have to make the one part(top) but in your case it is not think like the ref so better you make it a bit wide. Mirror it and place it below the top one, make copies. Maybe it will work or maybe it wont
I used FFD modifier, but I think Lattices in Maya can do the same job, basically just add some control points and twisting it manually. Spend some time to adjusting till you get the result you want. This image is just a quick example
@redarchfiend . This might help you. http://prntscr.com/el3z88 Not done by me. You would have to make the one part(top) but in your case it is not think like the ref so better you make it a bit wide. Mirror it and place it below the top one, make copies. Maybe it will work or maybe it wont
Thanks for the idea, I'll keep it in mind for a future project. I think it might be a little different from what I need for this one in particular though.
I used FFD modifier, but I think Lattices in Maya can do the same job, basically just add some control points and twisting it manually. Spend some time to adjusting till you get the result you want. This image is just a quick example [image]
That looks really good, I think I might be able to get it with something like that. Thanks for the help, will try it out.
I used FFD modifier, but I think Lattices in Maya can do the same job, basically just add some control points and twisting it manually. Spend some time to adjusting till you get the result you want. This image is just a quick example
I didn't have time to try this today, but I think adding wire deformers along or just inside the cylinder boundaries before the lattice would give you nice control over how the fold happens during the flip.
hello! I always have a problem with this type of geometry (irregular shape with tons of vertices on the top and few on the botton). I cut this shape and now I need to connect vertices. How do it properly to achieve the best edge flow? I know that this is flat surface and many mistake will be forgiven.
boski_miszczu You may want to add one more inner loop so it follows the shape of your object. The way how are you going to connect it doesn't really matter since it is a flat surface. But for lowpoly you may want to remove unnecessary edges.
block it out, build the geometry as simple as possibles, without booleans, just seperate pieces.
Hey there and thanks for your reply. I think this peace will need a lot of booleans if i want to let it look right even when i want to use it for first person
the edges in the sub-d are really sharp - you might want to experiment and compare bakes after slightly softening the edge transitions so more info bakes into the maps. you can think of it like... a razor sharp edge will be one pixel in the normal map - but something with a nicer roll will have more pixels baked out to describe the edge. And it will mip down nicer.
I was trying to recreate the original shape which is part plastic part pressed metal with sharp edges, but yeah, it doesn't look good.
How do I model a circular shape around a 4 corner shape around a circular shape? I get overlapping face. Tried multiple ways but nothing worked, help please
Hello, i'm new here. I would like to ask anyone for a way to solve this.
As seen in the image 1 i don't get perfectly rounded shape in the border, and in the middle of the shape i get hard edges, which i don't want, i want hard edges in the extrude but in everywhere else i want it to be soft. Hope somebody can help me. I'm really new to this. Thanks for your attention. The image 2 shows my wireframe.
@FinnIsengardt , that's cool. My suggestion is don't over-think things.
Do what makes sense to you on a rational level. For example, if a shape is meant to be round, make it round, not square. Don't blindly follow any advice you're given and you'll avoid a lot of confusion.
Below:
Base mesh. 12 segments for the cylinder divided by four sides of the rectangle = 3, which is exactly how many polygons we need for control loops for the rectangular part.
Here control loops are added. In this case it's done automatically with Quad Chamfer and a Vertex Weld modifier.
Sub-divided wireframe.
Sans wireframe.
16 sides might be a cleaner choice as maintaining center lines is often important. You'd just route the 4 extra cylinder edges through the center of the rectangular shapes.
Thank you for your detailed answer, I managed to do this with 12 and 16 segments. Thanks for your adviive
I have one more question!
In my first post you can see the original piece. Do you think these screws are extra geometry or just modelled in one piece?
@FinnIsengardt If it's a separated piece in real life, then there's no need to make it as one piece in 3d as well. You can do it as one piece, but it would take just too much geometry and it would be harder for no good reason (at least IMO).
In this piece you're showing I'd actually model those white metal pieces as separated pieces.
I actually thought of modelling it one piece, because in case of seperated approach I'd have to make a hole to fit the extra piece in anyway. Then I'd just inset and extrude it out again. On the other hand the geometry gets more complex, so maybe making it seperate would be the easiere approach.
I think I'll just do both ways and then see on my own which workflow is best :P
@iacdxbYou're on the right track, just experiment with it. I would model it clean, UV it, then use a cloth sim or sculpt it by hand, or do a displacement map with a cloth height map for quick iterations.
i'm asking myself how to tackle this piece here. any ideas how to get these carzy forms the best way?
block it out, build the geometry as simple as possibles, without booleans, just seperate pieces.
I hate to admit that even after years of modeling I would not know where to start easy shapes like the detached parts/knobs aside. There is very little information on doing blockouts with a boolean workflow in mind effiecently on the net. In result people start hacking away at the model most of the time making their lifes harder. If anyone knows a good tutorial on how to do parametric blockouts on complex objects like this, please post them. Perna once posted this http://polycount.com/discussion/106272/perplexed-still-on-low-high-poly-manipulation/p1 but to be honest I never understood what was really going on in these pictures,
Hey guys, been trying to model this Muzzle-break for a while now, all of which have given me pretty meh results. I'm trying to Boolean out the holes using a shape that has a slight angle to it so it recreates the slant indicated below. The topology it leaves is hard to re-work and just generally doesn't look too good. Maybe there's a better way to approach this? My attempt: As you can see it don't look too great. Any ideas or tips on how to make something like this?
@perna I have a blueprint for the Panzer IV but there are a lot of versions of the Panzer IV muzzle so I'm only using the BP as a guide. I tweaked about with the topology of the boolean operator and this is my result.
I wanted to push myself and so made this challenge for myself and to share with others: First paragraph is my own challenge. The second bit should be super easy but may present a good beginner's challenge.
Now I can do the geometry, a bit of touch up, and get it shading just fine. But I want to do it procedurally and perfectionist. Clean enough to pass as CAD or go home. I've searched pretty extensively through here, pinterest, perna's gdrive, etc, and could not find anything really quite matching this challenge. This is more a high level problem ensuring the modeling tools respect the desired curvature perfectly, not an issue of not knowing the geometry flow needed.
Here's my first attempt, which I knew wouldn't be what I want, but helps explain why it's hard: The problem areas are - a) Creating support loops which respect shape 1's curvature, while keeping shape 2's profile constant. b) Drew this arrow a bit wrong. It should be nudged to the right some. Shape 2's extrusion must be constant and form/curvature respecting so the chamfering applied afterwards is also perfect. c) Inside dips inward due to insetting a curved surface.
These are essentially the same issue explained with "c": Getting the curvature of 1, while keeping the form of 2. I think this is a pretty cool and difficult challenge and hope others are interested in tackling it or offering some thoughts!
Why not to bend, and than cap it? Otherwise crease.
Because to support the shape correctly you need equidistant support geo. Bending the bottom capsule after adding that support geo stretches it. Insetting after the bend to create the support geo doesn't work either because it doesn't maintain integrity of the flat capsule's flat surface. Quad chamfer after bending might work but I didn't have it at the time.
Hi Guys, Im Usiny Maya 2016 & moddeling a character, following a tutorial & it just sais "Create Locators" it doesnt show how, was hoping for some hints
Because to support the shape correctly you need equidistant support geo. Bending the bottom capsule after adding that support geo stretches it. Insetting after the bend to create the support geo doesn't work either because it doesn't maintain integrity of the flat capsule's flat surface. Quad chamfer after bending might work but I didn't have it at the time.
I feel like I'm completely missing the point of the challenge, but isn't it just an extrusion straight out from the primary capsule and a bevel at the connecting ring?
Hello guys, I am kinda beginner, trying to ride Blender. Could you please give me some tips how to make those holes? I've tried to make them out of quads, which I placed in the right order, but it didn't work well. I have to model a damn lot of different stuff like that with different amount of holes all the sizes. I guess, I should use something other than playing around the geometry of the primitives? Please, give me some direction to dig.
Replies
I don't understand...I thought my topo was good but I have some pinching on my mesh...
Is there something wrong with my topology ? Can I avoid them ?
Do read that article tho, there's a lot of good stuff in there that you can come back to if you get in trouble.
@helinc IDK why that didn't work, that's weird. I see that you have a lot of supporting geometry for the hole which may be making problems for you since the surrounding geo is round. Try removing all but one of the support loops and see how that goes.
That's what I did for this, but I overdid it like I overdo everything: http://skins.thanez.net/357/marmoset/
You should simplify those insets, like this; if you see pinching, it's red vertices fault, try moving them
And a 2017 max file for good measure: http://skins.thanez.net/help/mverta-weird-topology.max
What I mean about throwing GEO at it, is that you simply chamfered the corners and the beveled edges. I added supporting loops that can be edited or even completely removed without affecting the original mesh. Chamfering absolutely helps with the smoothing as the angles of the edges are overall less harsh, but, and here's y Perna rages at MOARGEO: It didn't solve the problem (only alleviated the pain), instead of learning "y subd do wat it do" you crapped out with a destructive (read: non-reversible and non-editable) chamfer and you're still left with a messy mesh because you put even more verts on there that you didn't get to cap off properly. When you regret that later you're gonna have to remodel that part.
Put a glossy material on your model and some lights in the scene, and study your edges and the corners of the bevel, and you'll see what I mean
#sorry if I come off as harsh, I'm kinda like perna but less good and more racist.
I was going same but without Itoo it is going to be hard to move it along the path. THanks
So I've been stuck on this for far longer than I would like to admit, and I need some assistance.
I am trying to make a thing like a shoelace tied in a very specific manner in a pattern through the hilt of the sword.
Picture for reference:
I tried a few things but my best idea was manually twisting each face to a similar result, as you can see it is very ugly and unusable in any sense.
I imagine this may be more easily done in a sculpting program, but I haven't started learning them yet.
And yes I know that even the above abomination isn't even remotely close to the original, which is why I did not even try to work on the bottom cross. My approaches are obviously completely incorrect.
It is difficult for me to even explain the shape, but here are two videos of how they tie it.
The paper thing in the second video is to hold the shape of the first half of the string while you cross the second half.
There is some sort of sticky stuff on the string to keep the shape together.
Here is a closeup.
Of note is that the side of the string that is on the top alternates with every cross, because the pattern continues on the back side of the hilt with a small displacement.
I just can't see how one would do this in a reasonable manner, I'm guessing curves would be used to trace the form somehow but that still would not be very great..
All of this is done with a single piece of long string, and even if I were to just make one of the cross sections to duplicate (to add end pieces separately) I feel it is extremely difficult to get the shape correct if I am just manipulating individual edges, I am not sure how to work with the shape evenly/properly when it is like.. a bracelet-like shape with so many points&edges to offset for a single change in angle.
Advice would be greatly appreciated.
http://www.screencast.com/t/EsmxPt2L
Make a small part (Tileable) with boolean, clean it out, make copies of it, attach,weld and boom
You would have to make the one part(top) but in your case it is not think like the ref so better you make it a bit wide. Mirror it and place it below the top one, make copies. Maybe it will work or maybe it wont
I used FFD modifier, but I think Lattices in Maya can do the same job, basically just add some control points and twisting it manually. Spend some time to adjusting till you get the result you want. This image is just a quick example
That looks really good, I think I might be able to get it with something like that. Thanks for the help, will try it out.
I always have a problem with this type of geometry (irregular shape with tons of vertices on the top and few on the botton). I cut this shape and now I need to connect vertices. How do it properly to achieve the best edge flow? I know that this is flat surface and many mistake will be forgiven.
and this is what I done so far - is it correct?:
I will be grateful for your help!!
Best regards
i'm asking myself how to tackle this piece here. any ideas how to get these carzy forms the best way?
I decided to up my hardsurface skills (but only after reading the entire thread).
How did I do and what I can do better?
EDIT: Keyshot render
As seen in the image 1 i don't get perfectly rounded shape in the border, and in the middle of the shape i get hard edges, which i don't want, i want hard edges in the extrude but in everywhere else i want it to be soft. Hope somebody can help me. I'm really new to this. Thanks for your attention. The image 2 shows my wireframe.
Thank you for your detailed answer, I managed to do this with 12 and 16 segments. Thanks for your adviive
I have one more question!
In my first post you can see the original piece. Do you think these screws are extra geometry or just modelled in one piece?
You can do it as one piece, but it would take just too much geometry and it would be harder for no good reason (at least IMO).
In this piece you're showing I'd actually model those white metal pieces as separated pieces.
On the other hand the geometry gets more complex, so maybe making it seperate would be the easiere approach.
I think I'll just do both ways and then see on my own which workflow is best :P
I was trying "Sachet" modeling but not finding a nice process.
Anyone know any tutorial or its process. Thanks.
...
There is very little information on doing blockouts with a boolean workflow in mind effiecently on the net. In result people start hacking away at the model most of the time making their lifes harder. If anyone knows a good tutorial on how to do parametric blockouts on complex objects like this, please post them. Perna once posted this http://polycount.com/discussion/106272/perplexed-still-on-low-high-poly-manipulation/p1 but to be honest I never understood what was really going on in these pictures,
My attempt:
As you can see it don't look too great. Any ideas or tips on how to make something like this?
Thanks!
Im Usiny Maya 2016 & moddeling a character, following a tutorial & it just sais "Create Locators" it doesnt show how, was hoping for some hints
I am kinda beginner, trying to ride Blender. Could you please give me some tips how to make those holes? I've tried to make them out of quads, which I placed in the right order, but it didn't work well. I have to model a damn lot of different stuff like that with different amount of holes all the sizes. I guess, I should use something other than playing around the geometry of the primitives? Please, give me some direction to dig.