So, no reply, I guess I'm going the right direction then. Next images show how I just pulled the edge around the nose and there is actually a nice transition (needs some polish, but the blockout seems fine in my eyes).
Guess I will pull some edges here and there and post again. It still feels weird to me to do this with blockout shapes and I'm not sure if another path (mostly easier path < 3) would lead to the same result.
@Ninjin42 Be very wary of manually moving verts and edges. Ideally, you want to be creating shapes with mostly modifiers/splines etc. For such a curvy shape, this is absolutely vital - trying to manually place points along a curve is a pain too many people put themselves through for no reason. If you absolutely must move anything, use soft selection so that at least the rest of the form responds to the changes.
I'm even more confused and beaten by Joao Sapiro by that post. Yeah, in your photo everything looks easy, but you don't show the transition of the bottom side of the bill which is sharp in the front, but it widens when going to the back of the head. Also, it looks like it's 2 separate pieces, 1 piece of geometry for the actual head and then it's like a mask on that half cylinder head. My next approach would be to start again with a simple plane, extrude them like in the image of Joao and work with a subdivision modifier. How I make the transitions, I still don't know, but starting with a plane and subd sounds more clean than the stupid crap I was doing the whole time
@Joao Sapiro Actually this photo is not helpful at all. The interesting parts are not shown, the tip of the bill, the mentioned transition to the back of the head, but it looks like you also think it's 2 pieces, but still no idea how the transition works. @perna with bridge, do you mean the transition of the lower and upper half of the bill?
@Joao Sapiro Actually thanks! < 3 This image was super useful. Could just copy+paste the planes and throw a subdivision modifier on it. Had some good result pretty fast (good = compared to the pictures I posted before ; P). Mesh needs some polish, but I feel I had to show something, maybe will update a wireframe of the finished mesh, maybe someone can learn from it how to quickly make something with subdivision modifiers < 3. Any suggestions/ pro tip except smaller eyes especially which edges I should sharpen? *Disabled Matcap in Blender, put some colors in it, don't mention the bad highlights, I noticed them in the last picture ;P.
You need a break/seam in the UV islands each time you create a hard edge with the smoothing groups. If you do not want to do this, like in your example, then make sure the whole cube is in one smoothing group. It will look ridiculous, but the Normal map will correct it.
However, this isn't the best practice in my opinion. You should make every edge of that cube a hard edge, and then split the UVs everywhere that has a hard edge. Make sure to give the islands some space between each other (padding.)
The latter is preferable here especially because the current UV layout of that cube is wasting a lot of space. If you split it into 6 UV islands (one for each face) then you will also utilise a lot more texture space!
Make sure to bake using a cage and remember than a normal map can only push smoothing so far - if you want super round corners then chamfer the edges too. =P
Hope that helps.
Hey there! I am struggling with this mesh! Is there any other way to optimize it?? I had a real pain trying to close polygons after making those circles and edges! Mesh is really dense in those areas so the task of reducing polys has been really hard! Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance!
this would be my way!
could go further. REd = edges Blue = vertices
Thank you very much! Really helpful! I am modeling a Car Battery! This is with Subdivision! That's why that amount of dense polys on corners! I think I am getting somewhere... What you think?
I'm a bit late to the party here but....
Since the top is a flat surface, once you have the control edges in, you can use literally whatever geometry you want and it will subdivide fine. =P
If you wanted to take the polycount down more (I'm assuming that's after a subdivision), just delete all of the extra edge loops that the subdivision has generated which don't affect the form/smoothing
@S3nsej - normally it appear when you model on an extremely huge object. I suggest you model it on the correct scale (and units) or if that's not an option u can turn on the viewport clipping and slightly shift the top slider down and bottom slider up a bit.
I have quick question. How i can get rid of those black areas? They only appear when i zoom out.
Viewport Clipping. Right click on the plus next to [perspective] on the top left of the viewport (or maybe the perspective itself) and then enable the viewport clipping. You'll see a yellow line on the right of your viewport and two triangles. move the bottom one for like 1mm to top that'll fix it.
Search for viewport clipping you'll find what it is about.
Okay. Here is my question: I want build a wall around my scene just like the guy in this tutorial (7:40). Problem is, I'm using Maya, and I don't know how can you do it like that there. I know you can do it in 3ds max using loft (gif), but it's not working in maya. The only way I'm thinking of, is using extrud along the curves, like when you building pipes, but this metho seems sub-optimal for the wall.
Is anyone able to help me solve the problem with the pinching i get once i bevel my edges. I am going to be baking normal maps using it so i dont want weird things happening in the bakes. I dont really want to put bevels down the side since it need to be a round smooth edge. Any help will be greatful
You need to use more segments in your base cylinder.
Even with an excessive amount of segments still get the same issue of the pitching and it causing a bump. If any Edge loops are placed even kinda close to where the bevel is it pitches like crazy even more.
@Ladygrace Seems like Max still busy "remember" the transformations you did earlier on the mesh, ResetXform should fix it. Just to be sure, apply an "edit mesh" and an "edit poly" modifier and then ResetXform couple times
@Ladygrace Seems like Max still busy "remember" the transformations you did earlier on the mesh, ResetXform should fix it. Just to be sure, apply an "edit mesh" and an "edit poly" modifier and then ResetXform couple times
I am using Maya for my modeling . I have cleared history etc.
You need to use more segments in your base cylinder.
Even with an excessive amount of segments still get the same issue of the pitching and it causing a bump. If any Edge loops are placed even kinda close to where the bevel is it pitches like crazy even more.
Go back like 5 or 10 pages and read all of the responses by perna. Go back further if you still haven't found a solution. This is a common issue that has been posted about many times in this thread.
Hey guys, I'm trying to make my first realistic model in maya, a plum. 1. Render (vray) and my viewport 2.0 are not similar, plum is more reddish in my viewport and I wanna make it like that in vray. The texture is made with few layered textures with noise as alpha channel. 2. How can I model and texture a realistic looking twig part? I have no idea what I'm doing with that part and I just can't seem to get it right.
Hey guys, I'm trying to make my first realistic model in maya, a plum. 1. Render (vray) and my viewport 2.0 are not similar, plum is more reddish in my viewport and I wanna make it like that in vray. The texture is made with few layered textures with noise as alpha channel. 2. How can I model and texture a realistic looking twig part? I have no idea what I'm doing with that part and I just can't seem to get it right. *pic*
Not sure what reference you're using but its a bit odd how its modeled now. Really tho, it's going to be so small in the render it doesn't need to be highly detailed. Instead of the layered material approach I'd suggest doing a simple polypaint for both high poly meshes (or paint an Albedo in Substance Painter) to bring in more detail. You'll likely want to use some subtle subsurface scattering on the plum's material as well. Also, notice how the stem in the photo I linked is very rough compared to the relatively glossy fruit skin. To really push it further, take a look at fruit up close and notice how they have lots of micro details and overall lumpiness that you could capture with a normal map. This kinda work will really sell a material.
The rendering needs more than just a single light source. This helps in matching reference. You should either put it in situ (in an environment) or light with an HDRi.
What you have now is a good start so just keep plugging away
Hey guys, I'm trying to make my first realistic model in maya, a plum. 1. Render (vray) and my viewport 2.0 are not similar, plum is more reddish in my viewport and I wanna make it like that in vray. The texture is made with few layered textures with noise as alpha channel. 2. How can I model and texture a realistic looking twig part? I have no idea what I'm doing with that part and I just can't seem to get it right. *pic*
Not sure what reference you're using but its a bit odd how its modeled now. Really tho, it's going to be so small in the render it doesn't need to be highly detailed. Instead of the layered material approach I'd suggest doing a simple polypaint for both high poly meshes (or paint an Albedo in Substance Painter) to bring in more detail. You'll likely want to use some subtle subsurface scattering on the plum's material as well. Also, notice how the stem in the photo I linked is very rough compared to the relatively glossy fruit skin. To really push it further, take a look at fruit up close and notice how they have lots of micro details and overall lumpiness that you could capture with a normal map. This kinda work will really sell a material.
The rendering needs more than just a single light source. This helps in matching reference. You should either put it in situ (in an environment) or light with an HDRi.
What you have now is a good start so just keep plugging away
Thanks! I will go with a round and simple top of the stem and add normal map or displacement map. Still not sure how I will texture it correctly. I'm really bad at hand drawn textures so if someone could link me to some good brushes that would be great (using photoshop + maya exclusively for this project).
hi Guys ,I'm just starting to make high poly modeling i decide to make leica m9 , i have a problem fixing the wire after doing the probolean where should all that vertice go to get a good edge flow result ? hope someone could point me in the right direction..
Not wanting to sound like a parrot (probably am one already), but look back in the threads and you would have found the answer(s) to your problem (there are flat surfaces you can simply terminate the edges, make an inset of the loop, etc etc).
@silvianrusso just get rid of those orphan loops and u should be fine. But keep in mind that that cilinder u just booleaned could use some more segments. Like someone mentioned above, u can terminate loops almost anywhere on flat surfaces. Cheers!
Is anyone able to help me solve the problem with the pinching i get once i bevel my edges. I am going to be baking normal maps using it so i dont want weird things happening in the bakes. I dont really want to put bevels down the side since it need to be a round smooth edge. Any help will be greatful
@Ladygrace using Crease+ You can get that one fast! if you know how Sub-D's work It's even better : -Starting with a 40 sides cylinder, doing My things -Set my Hard and soft edges -use SolidBevel, let Bevel width be 0 -Tweak it, smooth it , Done !
so many people forget about the turbosmooth by smoothing groups feature. Almost 80% of the recent stuff could be done with it. Heck even the thread title suggests it.
However, its not a rule of thumb. Plan your geometry and use as much as you need. Dont go overboard. Stay optimal and efficient
Yup, however it requires to set the smoothing groups (face based in Max unless there's a script I don't know about? ) ... + Ain't everybody model in Max
Is anyone able to help me solve the problem with the pinching i get once i bevel my edges. I am going to be baking normal maps using it so i dont want weird things happening in the bakes. I dont really want to put bevels down the side since it need to be a round smooth edge. Any help will be greatful
@Ladygrace using Crease+ You can get that one fast! if you know how Sub-D's work It's even better : -Starting with a 40 sides cylinder, doing My things -Set my Hard and soft edges -use SolidBevel, let Bevel width be 0 -Tweak it, smooth it , Done !
this crease + looks intresting but do u know where i can download it i am unable to find it in google never mind got it haha
Hey wonderful people wondering if I could get any tips on this K98K bolt sleeve
I dunno quite whats the best aproach really have done several trash attempts at it keep trying to break it down to the base core shapes, was thinking perhaps get the base shapes out which are mostly cylinders and such then zbrush zremesher them together but generally this whole piece has really wigged me out
Damn @ExcessiveZero thats a complex part, Ive gathered more refs and may give it a try if I have the time. Cheers! (Thats a beautiful rifle to model, been on my list for a while) and here u can watch some 3d models done in CAD programs in your browser and u can download them if tyou subscribe as refernce or u know.. use them in a dynamesh-retopo workflow to get the piece done, or as @perna said: cheat :P https://grabcad.com/library/bolt-action-system-mauser-kar98k-1
I've had to deal with quite a few of these weird cylindrical machined bastards, they're actually kind of fun to work with when you have enough reference material to know 100% what you're modelling. One thing to keep in mind with these shapes though is that you must always keep them as simple as possible. Blockouts for shapes like this are also incredibly important as breaking down these kinds of shapes into simple primitive components will help you loads when you're trying to figure out how you should situate your topology. Another thing that also helps is once you've finally completed a shape like this, do it again. They're great practice.
Here is what i`ve got, not perfect but well, its all there. I´ve made it with some heavy booleaning and cleaning and then doing the quadchamfer/turbosmooth magic. I used a Catia 3d model I have downloaded for precision reference (and only for reference, I have not cheated). Hope it helps! Maybe I keep modeling and get the whole rifle done, its a beautiful bolt action rifle
@DeathstrokeFTW You should share some screenshots or renders to help give a better idea of where you're at with the shape Looking at the real thing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KKEUYr-A2A) might give you a better sense of how it's shaped. At 0:37 you can see it continues all the way to the back.
A program agnostic hint: Lots of refs and a pretty solid blockout will be the foundation that allows you to accurately do this shape. I'd do this starting with very low poly cylinder, adding some height segments along it. Scaling and shaping it to get that initial profile, Then doing some kind of warping to follow the curving going back along the vehicle. Then it's just a matter of detail and refinement!
On getting good polygon flow: Change up the geometry as needed while you work. And create reference meshes with primitives or use splines in order to get your surfaces smooth. Keep the polycount low to ensure it's as smooth as possible.
Cheating: I found a shit ton of photos on google images of that car from an event in Vegas. It's under pretty even stage lighting and the paint is relatively matte and a good shade for... photogrammetry! If you can do that, no blockout stage is necessary for the entire car (get a couple measurements and you're bound to be damn close for essentially everything), and there's even enough images out there to do alternate photogrammetry chunks of the interiors of the car. With textured, meshed scans or direct point clouds you'd just model the high poly directly over that data, easy peasy.
Is anyone able to help me solve the problem with the pinching i get once i bevel my edges. I am going to be baking normal maps using it so i dont want weird things happening in the bakes. I dont really want to put bevels down the side since it need to be a round smooth edge. Any help will be greatful I give it a try. In the right most pic I did not use any support edges (sorry, not edge loop instead support loop, text wrong). However in the middle one seems to me work, it has an ugly uneven support loop. The left most I tried to add afterward two more segment (and scale a little bit), and it seems it has a nicer reflection, however the 'support segment' is not so close as real support edge.
I tried a lot of things, but I have trouble to make the nice flattened top with a hole. I thought the sequence should be something like this: 1 cylinder 2 cylinder with flat bended surface 3 cut a hole in the blended top surface However I tried it I always have trouble with the 2 and 3 point. How should you do this? thank you
@montressor this is what I came out with: Not the cleanest but I think this should be the approach.
I started with an cylinder, transformed it until it fits the outer shape. Than I used a little spline (because I like splines xD) for the inner bended cylinder shape. Pro-Boolean for subtraction and than just putting in control edges. Pay attention on the cylinder sides to fit the inner and outer part exactly (not like I did^^).
I tried a lot of things, but I have trouble to make the nice flattened top with a hole. I thought the sequence should be something like this: 1 cylinder 2 cylinder with flat bended surface 3 cut a hole in the blended top surface However I tried it I always have trouble with the 2 and 3 point. How should you do this? thank you
Started from my favorite 40 sides Cyl Extruded it from the middle , and the rest is pretty self explanatory (Use of HBevel in Face mode, Box Bool, merge vertices) Of course this is not exactly the same shape but you can elaborate more complex ones...
Hey everyone, I'm completely new to polycount, feels a bit cheap to ask for help on the first post but this is quite a pickle for me and the game I'm currently working on!
So I was wondering if anyone has any pointers or tips to help me approach this kind of style, kinda like donald pockets, but in 3d! Trunk isn't all that hard, but getting leaves like that seems like a nightmare, though it's soo easy to draw.. Anything at all will be helpful, thanks!
Replies
Guess I will pull some edges here and there and post again. It still feels weird to me to do this with blockout shapes and I'm not sure if another path (mostly easier path < 3) would lead to the same result.
Be very wary of manually moving verts and edges. Ideally, you want to be creating shapes with mostly modifiers/splines etc. For such a curvy shape, this is absolutely vital - trying to manually place points along a curve is a pain too many people put themselves through for no reason. If you absolutely must move anything, use soft selection so that at least the rest of the form responds to the changes.
wtf i cant add images properly...
@Joao Sapiro Actually this photo is not helpful at all. The interesting parts are not shown, the tip of the bill, the mentioned transition to the back of the head, but it looks like you also think it's 2 pieces, but still no idea how the transition works.
@perna
with bridge, do you mean the transition of the lower and upper half of the bill?
Actually thanks! < 3 This image was super useful. Could just copy+paste the planes and throw a subdivision modifier on it. Had some good result pretty fast (good = compared to the pictures I posted before ; P). Mesh needs some polish, but I feel I had to show something, maybe will update a wireframe of the finished mesh, maybe someone can learn from it how to quickly make something with subdivision modifiers < 3.
Any suggestions/ pro tip except smaller eyes especially which edges I should sharpen?
*Disabled Matcap in Blender, put some colors in it, don't mention the bad highlights, I noticed them in the last picture ;P.
However, this isn't the best practice in my opinion. You should make every edge of that cube a hard edge, and then split the UVs everywhere that has a hard edge. Make sure to give the islands some space between each other (padding.)
The latter is preferable here especially because the current UV layout of that cube is wasting a lot of space. If you split it into 6 UV islands (one for each face) then you will also utilise a lot more texture space!
Make sure to bake using a cage and remember than a normal map can only push smoothing so far - if you want super round corners then chamfer the edges too. =P Hope that helps.
I'm a bit late to the party here but....
Since the top is a flat surface, once you have the control edges in, you can use literally whatever geometry you want and it will subdivide fine. =P
If you wanted to take the polycount down more (I'm assuming that's after a subdivision), just delete all of the extra edge loops that the subdivision has generated which don't affect the form/smoothing
I have quick question. How i can get rid of those black areas? They only appear when i zoom out.
Viewport Clipping.
Right click on the plus next to [perspective] on the top left of the viewport (or maybe the perspective itself) and then enable the viewport clipping. You'll see a yellow line on the right of your viewport and two triangles. move the bottom one for like 1mm to top that'll fix it.
Search for viewport clipping you'll find what it is about.
1. Render (vray) and my viewport 2.0 are not similar, plum is more reddish in my viewport and I wanna make it like that in vray. The texture is made with few layered textures with noise as alpha channel.
2. How can I model and texture a realistic looking twig part? I have no idea what I'm doing with that part and I just can't seem to get it right.
http://www.californiadriedplums.org/media/109b0365/fresh and prune fruit.png
Not sure what reference you're using but its a bit odd how its modeled now. Really tho, it's going to be so small in the render it doesn't need to be highly detailed. Instead of the layered material approach I'd suggest doing a simple polypaint for both high poly meshes (or paint an Albedo in Substance Painter) to bring in more detail. You'll likely want to use some subtle subsurface scattering on the plum's material as well. Also, notice how the stem in the photo I linked is very rough compared to the relatively glossy fruit skin. To really push it further, take a look at fruit up close and notice how they have lots of micro details and overall lumpiness that you could capture with a normal map. This kinda work will really sell a material.
The rendering needs more than just a single light source. This helps in matching reference. You should either put it in situ (in an environment) or light with an HDRi.
What you have now is a good start so just keep plugging away
Thanks! I will go with a round and simple top of the stem and add normal map or displacement map. Still not sure how I will texture it correctly. I'm really bad at hand drawn textures so if someone could link me to some good brushes that would be great (using photoshop + maya exclusively for this project).
where should all that vertice go to get a good edge flow result ? hope someone could point me in the right direction..
http://polycount.com/discussion/157205/how-u-model-dem-shapes-image-ripped
https://www.pinterest.com/Makkon06/hard-surface-topology/
using Crease+ You can get that one fast! if you know how Sub-D's work It's even better :
-Starting with a 40 sides cylinder, doing My things
-Set my Hard and soft edges
-use SolidBevel, let Bevel width be 0
-Tweak it, smooth it , Done !
never mind got it haha
I dunno quite whats the best aproach really have done several trash attempts at it keep trying to break it down to the base core shapes, was thinking perhaps get the base shapes out which are mostly cylinders and such then zbrush zremesher them together but generally this whole piece has really wigged me out
and here u can watch some 3d models done in CAD programs in your browser and u can download them if tyou subscribe as refernce or u know.. use them in a dynamesh-retopo workflow to get the piece done, or as @perna said: cheat :P
https://grabcad.com/library/bolt-action-system-mauser-kar98k-1
Maybe I keep modeling and get the whole rifle done, its a beautiful bolt action rifle
A program agnostic hint: Lots of refs and a pretty solid blockout will be the foundation that allows you to accurately do this shape. I'd do this starting with very low poly cylinder, adding some height segments along it. Scaling and shaping it to get that initial profile, Then doing some kind of warping to follow the curving going back along the vehicle. Then it's just a matter of detail and refinement!
On getting good polygon flow: Change up the geometry as needed while you work. And create reference meshes with primitives or use splines in order to get your surfaces smooth. Keep the polycount low to ensure it's as smooth as possible.
Cheating: I found a shit ton of photos on google images of that car from an event in Vegas. It's under pretty even stage lighting and the paint is relatively matte and a good shade for... photogrammetry! If you can do that, no blockout stage is necessary for the entire car (get a couple measurements and you're bound to be damn close for essentially everything), and there's even enough images out there to do alternate photogrammetry chunks of the interiors of the car.
With textured, meshed scans or direct point clouds you'd just model the high poly directly over that data, easy peasy.
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1rrZLNXXXXXb.aXXXq6xXFXXXX/-font-b-SAMSUNG-b-font-USB-font-b-Flash-b-font-font-b-Drive-b.jpg
I tried a lot of things, but I have trouble to make the nice flattened top with a hole. I thought the sequence should be something like this:
1 cylinder
2 cylinder with flat bended surface
3 cut a hole in the blended top surface
However I tried it I always have trouble with the 2 and 3 point. How should you do this?
thank you
Not the cleanest but I think this should be the approach.
I started with an cylinder, transformed it until it fits the outer shape. Than I used a little spline (because I like splines xD) for the inner bended cylinder shape. Pro-Boolean for subtraction and than just putting in control edges.
Pay attention on the cylinder sides to fit the inner and outer part exactly (not like I did^^).
Extruded it from the middle , and the rest is pretty self explanatory (Use of HBevel in Face mode, Box Bool, merge vertices)
Of course this is not exactly the same shape but you can elaborate more complex ones...
So I was wondering if anyone has any pointers or tips to help me approach this kind of style, kinda like donald pockets, but in 3d! Trunk isn't all that hard, but getting leaves like that seems like a nightmare, though it's soo easy to draw.. Anything at all will be helpful, thanks!