LOW-POLY ART
polycounter lvl 19
This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Here's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software: Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Replies
Buzz Lightyear for a PSP thing that never panned out:
Can we get some wires?
she had 'witch tits' syndrome:)
- Tiny edges. If they aren't very big they can probably go. ex: the engine chamfers, the loop on the wheel pole things, tailpipes. Also that connecting piece from the engine to those two cylinder things: if they aren't already a single plane (looks like a box from here), change it.
- Hidden triangles. Not just the obvious ones, but things like on the gas tank. You could probably chop that polygon at the front in half and delete the triangle that isn't showing. Same with the the back wheel cover. (if none of this is already done).
- Superfluous edges. Edges that aren't adding much. They might be giving some form I can't tell without rotating the model around so, again, it's something to consider. ex: ends of the wheel covers (edges could probably be collapsed), the seat.
I wouldn't suggest 3-sided tubes, at least not at this triangle count. Or only do it to those two smaller rods running from the gagues down to the engine.
nice bike though.
what do you think would be suitable?
Nice mill and style. Though i do have a little problem with the stonewall of it.
These stones look flat somehow. I think that`s so because they seem to overlap the wooden planks. I´d suggest to add a obvoius ending to those Planks, where they "hit" the stonewall - so that there will occure a small dark gap between stone and wooden wall, wich imo will support the illusion that there is built a wooden wall on top of a stonewall.
(I hope you understood, what I mean)
Click here for crummy idle animation.
Beautiful work Ruz, what is the texture size if you don't mind me asking?
agreed.
I guess it is because of green and purple color use in tree branch texture. That purple doesnt fit there in my oppinion.
Other than that it is a great enviro
Hey Ivar, loved your stripper
JacqueChoi - Buzz Lightyear is Gnarly!
Spacey - Thank you for the paintover and the tips! I went through your suggestions and tried to hit them all. I was able to chop it down to under a 1k tris so somethings I did end up keeping like the edge loops on the tail pipe that gives it some shape.
hawken - Thanks! Are you talking about the edge loop right before the pipes connect to the engine? If so I did remove that one.
Gux - That chicken is rad.
Here is where I'm at now after the optimizations. I'm eager to start texturing it and I'm happy with where it is at right now.
Thx guys! here's the flat and wires:
I hate T pose.
Stupid pre-made rigs
80 tris for the onion and 138 for the pumpkin.
Here's the fixed water mill and also, my new building, the blacksmith!
The blacksmith is 985 tris and the water mill is 995 tris.
only thing that bothers me is the major amount of specular highlights on the characters and the lack of anything shiny in the environment, it makes the characters look out of place to me.
Now a few questions!
1 - Is there any way to get a good render that will look as crisp as a screenshot from directly within Maya would? Cause I did exactly that and the screenshot maintains the crispness of the look while the render seems to make the look fuzzy and soft. I have Texture filter set to Unfiltered, shading set to Flat Shade all and the edge anti-aliasing is set to low.
2 - Do you all render out your low-polys or screenshot them? The stuff I have seen here looks very good and not soft or fuzzy like mine.
3 - When should I use a 128x128 map over a 256x256 map? I didn't give it much thought for the NES console, but figured I should ask cause Im not sure if its best to use a lower or higher one.
Well, more low-polys on the way!
1- You have did that in the viewport or in the Material options? Try both.
2- I use maya and there is no option to make the render look like in the viewport (pixelated) so I take screenshots from the viewport, erase the background and compose it in Photoshop.
3- You can try a 128xtexture to make the model more pixelated as it would appear in a low poly game. Even you can try at 64px and make "pixel art shadows". It's just and opinion.
Should work.
I do have a question regarding her textures. I have all her textures seperated into 128x128 with the exception of her fin which is 64x64. I heard that having too many textures for the characters can really bog down a system and that it's easier to make it into one texture if possible. Can anyone offer me advice on this if that's the case?
She's 482 tris right now.
This next image is a low poly character I am working on. I hardly have had any chance to model characters in 3D. Have only done one in Maya, and a rather cool looking creature in Zbrush, but other than that, my experience is rather low. So I decided to give low poly creations a chance to better my skill. And at the same time, keep on learning UV unwrapping and texturing. And cause low poly just rocks. Its the pixel art of 3D. Critiques plz on how to better mesh flow, its looking rather blocky right now. I want to keep that aspect in some areas, but not in all. For example the lower legs. I kinda imagined some kinda big leg armor or boots. But the body entirely looks like the cube it was born from haha.
Wait wait wait pixelated is something thats desirable? I've always tried making my textures bigger to prevent just that.
Anyways, here is another low poly I finished a few hours ago. Decided to model a bubbling ooze from the sega genesis game, Shining Force 2.
too high? too low? Does the bad boolean geometry in some areas really matter?
also, quick question, is there a way to view normals in maya like they would be viewed in unity/other engines; one way. Not double sided.
I've heard the iPhone can display about 3000 tris at any given time before it starts to chug, but I can't say for sure.
As far as rendering polys in maya's viewport as they would be in-engine just select the objects you want single-sided and go to view>backface culling as mentioned above.
Love it, Love it, Love it! Especially the rigid, tall feeling it gets from all those supports and 90* angles - Fantasy buildings all being saggy just for the sake of it is getting on my nerves!
xD, if you want to give to your model a "low poly look" just like Nintendo DS or PSP the answer is yes ^^
Get the model in Slaught's thread.
You can look at the wires real time and see how its done
im completely new into modeling and after doing 2 tutorials i started my first blender model.
276 tris per egg, 128x128 handpainted texture
by the way: how can i get it "slimy" in blender.. use a spec-map? does it work also with shader off?
@Fearian, thanks! Yeah I know, the only places I added a bit of sagging is on the roof! The rest is straight and sturdy, the way it should be! :poly142:
It's a Katamari version of my friend Dan. 192 tris.
Here is the model in action in my 3D engine - http://rumblesushi.com/katamari_baldwin.html
Cheers,
RumbleSushi