This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Some dedicated low-poly modelling tools now exist that make this art style a lot easier to produce;
Crocotile3D &
BlockbenchHere's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software:
Low-Poly Art Style Guide
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haha, awesome
Most glorious 3d model.
People still play Oblivion? Whats the mod for?
One of the most epic things I've already seen here. It's a shame that things on this thread don't go to the recap.
Those fishes were made for a suspended mod, called Barton Isles (http://forum.wiwiland.net/index.php?/topic/44603-wip-barton-isles/) which takes place in the mediterranean sea...
penE, your model looks nice, though I find the inner part of the pants too dark.
And as jramauri said, a top gallery showing the last most commented pictures would be fine, even if it's technically tricky to set up.
Unless it's okay for me to keep this level of detail? Besides adding some more ammo packs, I don't see any other thing I would do to this in terms of affecting the geo.
434 triangles
223 triangles
Lucky sob, I'd quit my job in a heartbeat if my partner knew anything about making games.
Duvo inspired me to make a little pixel robot for texturing practice.
20 Polys and 36 Verts. Texture is 128x128
I am very n00b and this is my first finished lowpoly model so any feedback is very much appreciated
Sure, just a few: http://www.poopinmymouth.com/net/shooter/allships.jpg
And it's playable in a rough state: www.snjohus.com
just played it! really cool! Have you seen Wolffire's 7day fps called Receiver?
anyways I have a critque, the green pellets seem to revive your blue shields. Which never felt right even after I realized it.
Also, the bullets that enemies shoot at you seem to switch trajectory on a whim which makes it really difficult to predict how to swerve your way through them. I'm not sure if this is intentional or not
anyways it's got a nice feel to it and it was only the inability to correctly judge the path of the enemy bullets that hindered it's addictabilty
Thanks for the feedback! I have plans to replace all the floaty pellets with appropriate graphics.
I think you could utilize the space in your texture by overlaying the uvs on the other half of the model that's symmetrical.
Really well done.
Canceled PSP project. Glock's 167 triangles, 128*128 map. The texture is a bit bright since you'd lose a lot of brightness and contrast in-engine.
It looks awesome uncle_gun, keep it up!
http://p3d.in/C4Np2/shadeless+spin
http://p3d.in/
That's the website. Just upload models
They had no textures before, but now they do! Seems great and you can even embed it as an html code. Uses html5 (no plugins)
At almost 1250 triangles it's a bit higher poly than I'd set out for, but still a fair reduction. Here's the main differences:
-focus more on global shapes and silhouette than small details. For example: in the *.max you can see I made the helmet ridge at first, but I decided it cost too many triangles for too little effect. The simple helmet is smoother of silhouette yet costs less. I reckon the ridge is small enough to just be textured in.
Along the same lines, convex shapes are more important than concave ones. I've not really made any arm holes because you can paint those in (plus they're largely obfuscated by the arms!) but you can't paint in bulges such as the wristbands and knucklepads.
-always think carefully about the balance between size, detail and visibility. Your legs are 5 or 6 sided but the arms are only 4 sided - even though the concept shows the arms thicker, and legs are most likely to be clipped off in a close-up. I kept the legs 5 sided because they're relatively thin, but added sides to the arms.
-try to avoid very narrow polygons. These indicate that you're probably not using them as efficiently as possible, plus they can give you trouble when animating. Of course you can't get rid of them completely (kneepads for instance) but try to minimize the use. You could halve the polycount of the shoes this way.
-the lower the polycount, the more you should use triangulated shapes instead of quads and loops. At least thats what I think. Edgeflow is useful to keep better control, but triangulation lets you squeeze a bit more detail out of things. You'll notice that things like the glasses, vest and helmet are a bit like geospheres.
-if you can't afford to make everything round enough, make some parts extra blocky. To save polygons I made the arm and shoulder armor chunkier than necessary. First of all this frees up some polygons to use elsewhere, but it also makes it less obvious that you've run out of budget, and it contrasts a bit so the rounder shapes look more round. A bit of a mind trick, but quite effective. This won't just work on everything though - but it works very well for man-made and technical items (such as armor plating).
-ditch the symmetry line. I'm not sure if you were at this point yet, but the symmetry line is something I try to avoid like the plague. [note: not everyone might agree with me] I find it wastes polygons (for example on the helmet) and it will tempt you to mirror the entire character, leading to things like Rorschach/butterflies.
-stick to your concept. It's a pretty lovely concept with interesting weight distribution and a very top-heavy design. But your model seems more regularly proportioned. You're also deviating in other ways, for example you now have a rather boring row of ammo pouches instead of a nice varied pocket-placement. I tried to stick pretty close to the concept, but I wasn't entirely sure what was going on with the backpack and collar.
-threw more polygons at the hands. The way you had them they were feeling very flat and they couldn't bend too well. I made them so they're decently animatable and he can hold a gun properly. In this case if you wanted to save more polygons, you might be better off with a simple fist-blob than a flat/open hand because he's mostly going to be holding a gun.
And some various things that are optional:
- I try to pick a natural relaxed pose. One the character feels comfortable in. This gives it more attitude and you can get a feel for it's personality, it makes it easier to animate, and it looks a bit better in presentations. I generally start out with a T-pose to block in volumes, then pose it a bit, and then finish from there.
-I've kept the neck/head/helmet as a separate object. This isn't necessary but it saves a few polygons (sometimes), makes animating easier (sometimes) and it can be useful for head swapping if your game does that.
-add smoothing groups (also on WIPs) to get a better idea of how the endresult will look ingame. Sometimes I also like to add vertex colors to get an even slightly better idea.
-oh, I put in the concept art in a different way. I inverted the image and put it in the opacity slot. That way it would just darken over the background, kind of like a hologram. I find this to be less distracting than a white plane.
I just noticed I forgot to add the thigh pads/packs. Oh well...
I'll dig into the max files once I get time. Work's been kinda crazy.
Personally, I'm doing these so I can start practicing small, but I definitely want to do higher fidelity models. Is there anything I can do while doing these to build up to such a degree effectively?
working on this , still need to play around with shading .
WIP turtle, 270 tri, 256^2 texture
http://p3d.in/qnXB6/shadeless
http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?t=97311
models from Thumbzilla
from that thread also:
http://forums.tigsource.com/index.php?topic=74.msg736603#msg736603
Good show gentlemen, I believe it's time for tea now hm?
Only thing I might suggest is less subtle secondary movement on his bowler hat.
It does add contrast to seperate the legs but there really is no corresponding contrast on the arms, so the jacket just becomes one shape when they overlap.
My first Blender project (well... half Blender - I still modeled it in Wings because I can't get used to the way Blender works). 30 polygons and 17 vertices, and my texture/material (still not sure what to call it!) is hand drawn in GIMP with a trackpoint mouse... yay.
The hilt appears to be many colors even though it's only one, and it casts a funny shadow on the handle. Suggestions for that? Probably a lighting issue...
I also still don't have any idea what constitutes a "low poly count" model. I see 1000 poly at the top of this thread - is that typical for sluggish computers/small devices? I want to write a MMOG in Python and implement some models from Blender and I don't know what I should allow myself as far as poly count