Made a very basic blockout to get layout and proportions outlined also wanted to test lighting and fog in unreal. Think I'm next going to try making a large texture that most of the textures will be based on and see how successful this can be before doing much more modelling. Trying to create it starting in zbrush and pulling the export to substance painter. If its large enough Im hoping to be able to scale uv's down for foreground models and avoid obvious repeating patterns this way, also needing less tiling for background models.
Pleased with the red squares in the background, took me a while to get the effect I wanted, though I may go in and add some red lights manually as I used emissive to get a flat colour across the models.
This is my starting blockout for the stylized prop.
Over the last year I've tried to learn how to model for games on my own, and to be honest more often than not I find myself frozen with analysis paralysis, not knowing where to go next, which tutorial or project to make in order to build my portfolio. So I remembered about these challenges, which are a great way of overcoming that. So... hope I can learn a lot from you guys!
My attempt at Cara Delevigne's likeness in her game-ready version :)
https://polycount.com/discussion/229529/cara-delevigne-bust-real-time#latest
https://www.artstation.com/artwork/Le8WXP
Its finished 😁 Thank you so much to every one who commented and helped me, I feel so happy that this is finally complete!
Check it out on artstation https://www.artstation.com/artwork/4XRO9W
You mention you could stitch some uv's here and there - but that sounds like you aren't aware of the fact that it'll affect your shading, which of course goes on to effect your bakes and normal maps, lods etc. etc. Yes, you could run a uv -> hard edge script, but that means there could be some UVs that you stitched together which have really harsh angle deviations that are now being softened, creating a huge shading gradient.
Before even UVing, you should be considering a couple of things:
Yes - using things like 3d painting means seams aren't so much of an issue as they were back in the photoshop texturing days - but they still have to be considered. The more splits you have, the more hard edges, the more vertices your mesh would be. The less splits you have, the more soft edges you'll see which comes along with harsh shading if not controlled with more geometry.
Two routes:
you could instead:
The net amount of vertices would be the same in either scenario - both have their scenarios that work best.
Hello Polycount !
I worked on this small project this past weeks. I wanted to train on stylized assets. I'm pretty much done with it, I just planned to refine a little bit some parts, and maybe add a butterfly.
I struggle with foliage, and i'm not really satisfied with the result i'm getting right now.
Every critics and feedbacks are welcome, this would be a pleasure to have some fresh eyes looking at it !
Thanks !
For character work I would actually say that they matter more than ever - because now that model density can capture all kinds of details, one absolutely wants seams to follow ... well, actual seams. And brushing them off as "doable in substance painter" would litterally mean adding more time on top of an already extremely lengthy workflow.
If anything, they also allow ID maps to become more clean now because ID regions can pretty much follow polygons (and be split off accordingly) as opposed to crossing over in awkward places.
I guess at the end of the day it really depends on how clean the asset really needs to be. ZenUV is looking really useful BTW, time to try it out.
Thanks for the critique! I agree the scale and softness is very important here and I'm trying to pay attention to it all the time. But also from gathering references I've noticed it really varies because there are many miniature scales, materials they are made from and the overall amount of details. There indeed are some toy trains that look very smooth like this one:teodar23 said:Looks great but its not very convincing that these are small objects. What would really sell this idea is for the edges to be less sharp and small shapes to be thicker. If you look at most plastic toys, especially older ones, the smaller the toy the bulkier and "softer" it is. This is for 2 reasons: lack of precision in tooling and usually you dont want kids playing with really small parts that can break off. Your model looks more like a highly detailed large scale plastic kit.
Another thing that would help sell the micro-ness of it is the paint thickness. Smaller the object, thicker the paint basically.
But overall great screne, really looks like a diorama.
Here are my submission for the month. I'm glad with how it turned out, and here are some major changes I'd incorporate going forward
While I will move onto the next month challenges, I'd appreciate any feedback on parts to fix and look out for in the future. Thanks for reading
That inside corner will need additional support loops to remain sharp. The width of these loops should be similar to the width of the other perimeter support loops. There's a few different ways to approach the topology layout. As long as everything smooth properly, it's possible to use triangles and n-gons to connect the corner support edges to the rest of the geometry. Since this mesh will be used as a base mesh for sculpting it probably makes sense to try and keep everything on a quad grid.
Here's a couple examples of all quad topology layouts that provide additional support for the inside corner. The first example uses a bit more geometry and since the peak of the cut out lands between the segments the topology is compatible with back to front mirror modifier.
The second example uses a bit less geometry but, since there's a quad connecting the edges around the peak, it won't work with a back to front mirror modifier. Both of these topology topology layouts would probably have to be created before sculpting on the base mesh.