Ok, trying to diversify my folio a little bit... decided to go for a hard-edge style piece, was trying to think of somethings and ended up on the HK G36C.
Hey Raider. I think that overall, you're off to an ok start, but I think that the handle and the stock seem very boxy atm.
This isn't exactly an easy gun to model, as I found out the hard way http://boards.polycount.net/showthread.php?t=64642 So get lots of good reference and stay open to critiques as you move along and I think you'll come out with a good model. Be patient with it because when you get later on in the model, there can be some very awkward shapes.
And when you start the texturing, remember that most of the gun is actually made of hard polymers, except for the barrel and such. Here's some good reference for what these materials look like when done well http://www.gamespot.com/features/6240138/p-2.html
good reference especially the PC and xbox versions.
Dan K has done a very nice model and i think his comment is correct.
but this is very early and it shows that you can definitely give him some nice competition
Dan K: Sigh tell me about it, i've basically always done characters so i thought this stuff would be a breeze, yep so wrong, so very wrong. Gun modeling is a massive pain. Cheers for the reference as well that's going to come in handy
dont ever, ever use another game as a reference for weapons.
especially cod. cod games tend to totally change the sights to make them more visible/usable on a wider range of displays, and these kinds of artistic license changes are ones you should be making based on your own judgement, not infinity ward's (and imo they 9 times out of 10 do it wrong)
thats like using STALKER for anatomy reference.
always always use the real thing or whatever you make will have all the errors of whatever you based it on.
It's got a lot of noticable inaccuracies, you'll probably end up wanting to totally redo some components (though i guess at this stage theyre only really massed out anyway), but i wont point them out yet seeing as you only just now have a decent set of reference images.
The Receiverbody is too slim.
It should allign with the Magwell (which is too broad) and the HKV Carryhandle.
You also missed that the receiver is tapering towards the top, visible at the hinge sectionnear the stock.
The frontpart of the HKV/Carryhandle should be straight aswell and not bend inwards like on you model.
The whole rifle is also mirrored, but maybe thats a thing you want?
I'm working on the base details and then i'm going to add the a-symm to it, just wanting to get it all blocked out first. This is also my first gun model so it's just a huge learning curve with the amount of parts and also trying to find everything from the refs that is needed / missing. But i'm loving the crit
Let me clarify my statement earlier in emphasizing that the COD reference was for the materials of the gun. I don't think you can ever have enough reference though as long as you realize the differences between the in game guns and the ones in real life.
There are certain problems you'll run into later on in the making of this model, especially when texturing, and looking at models that other people have done can give you a good sense of how other people approached certain problems. In this case the specific thing I would take away from what IW did is that they've added enough wear and tear to make it interesting and realistic but they didn't overdue it. Also they did a very good job of making the polymers look like polymers not look like metal.
I've seen too many G36 models where people texture it like any other gun and it ends up having metal scratches everywhere. And I know personally that some of the most trouble I had in doing mine is that most of the photo reference I found were of the guns in pristine condition.
But at the very least, I would use it as a quality bar to aim for. Not trying to start a flame war, just clarifying my statement earlier
Let me clarify my statement earlier in emphasizing that the COD reference was for the materials of the gun. I don't think you can ever have enough reference though as long as you realize the differences between the in game guns and the ones in real life.
yeah. If you wanna get really autistic, it's also good to have at least a rough awareness of all the variations in different productions of the very same gun IRL as well. Whether or not your knowledge actually noticably effects the final product, if you have the time it's a good thing to immerse yourself in your subject. Similar to the way we study skeletal structure and muscular system even if we're modelling a guy covered in power armour.
I usually spend at least a few hours learning as much as i can about whatever it is i'm modeling. this is partly because not all the information available is true in 100% of cases and partly because modeling without a fairly good knowledge of how it all goes together is like shooting a film before reading the script
I've seen too many G36 models where people texture it like any other gun and it ends up having metal scratches everywhere. And I know personally that some of the most trouble I had in doing mine is that most of the photo reference I found were of the guns in pristine condition.
Totally. People often start out doing hardsurface stuff thinking it looks simple and you don't need to do extensive study like you do with organics. Luckily our boy here was clever enough to figure out quite early that it's to be treated with all the fastidiousness one would be willing to apply to anatomy, for example.
But at the very least, I would use it as a quality bar to aim for. Not trying to start a flame war, just clarifying my statement earlier
not at all! the reality though, is that you can give advice like that and have no control over how it's interpreted, i just quickly jumped on it for that reason - and this is espescially dangerous to people just starting out modelling hard surface from life because it's a lot less forgiving in some ways.
Definately agree on studying what you're making, fortunately / unfortunately i got some more work for my mod.. So there will be a new thread with a different piece and this goes on hold
Managed to get a bit more time to work on this fella. Just some screen grabs wanted to get it up before going to bed and the render really didn't add heaps to it :d
Some more additions, finishing out the main details then i'll start collapsing and throwing on the a-symm and resizing things to match the scale / width of my refs
Getting closer to reality. Your lower (the plastic block extending above the pistol grip) shouldn't be that much wider than the receiver body, nor should the magazine well.
yer those are a few of the things i was mentioning that i was going to resize to match once i'd finished finally getting all the pieces on, then a-symm and the joy of learning the best way to normal map hard surfaces (never done it ) Should be a good learning experience
Yer i agree, i've got a box with the proper dimensions next to it, i'm going to keep it a little thicker then that just to give it a more beefy gun model feeling like you find in a lot of fps.
Just watched some of your baking tuts racer so they should come in handy when i start on the bake for this one
Yer i agree, i've got a box with the proper dimensions next to it, i'm going to keep it a little thicker then that just to give it a more beefy gun model feeling like you find in a lot of fps.
You really shouldn't change the proportions of things unless you're going for something really stylized. Nothing looks better than a realistic, accurate model, tbh.
You really shouldn't change the proportions of things unless you're going for something really stylized. Nothing looks better than a realistic, accurate model, tbh.
Though sometimes you need to push certain forms to make it appear more beefy. That's fine until you start using it as an excuse to ignore accuracy altogether.
Though sometimes you need to push certain forms to make it appear more beefy. That's fine until you start using it as an excuse to ignore accuracy altogether.
says the guy giving me accuracy crits and being nitpicky :P. So sometimes you need to be 100 percent accurate and other times its ok to let it slide right?
So sometimes you need to be 100 percent accurate and other times its ok to let it slide right?
Not really "letting it slide" but rather intentionally changing shapes to look more powerful. You should certainly strive to be as accurate as possible, but sometimes shapes make the weapon look wimpy and bring the rest of it down.
Inaccurate models of real weapons bother me however guns that don't feel at all powerful is an important problem as well.
Not really "letting it slide" but rather intentionally changing shapes to look more powerful. You should certainly strive to be as accurate as possible, but sometimes shapes make the weapon look wimpy and bring the rest of it down.
Inaccurate models of real weapons bother me however guns that don't feel at all powerful is an important problem as well.
no I know what you're saying man, I was just being a lil dick-ish
Problem with this weapon is it's so customisable so trying to find the same ref from multiple angles is a tough job. Every time i look at other ref i always see something slightly different or completely different and it makes me wonder which one i should be doing But never the less i hope to get some more time to work on it this week and finish off the hpoly.
Wish someone would do a virtual type get up where they take the gun and do photos from every direction so you can rotate around the whole thing to see perfectly
I can do you one better: here's a guy that a while ago was able to import a 100% legit FA G36. It's not a carbine model, but there are a lot of useful close-ups.
... you...... legend gauss! Except once i get off work it looks like the next time i get a chance to work on the gun a lot of stuff is probably going to be turfed and started over
I feel i owe an update, haven't been able to get much time with work / gym and life atm, but i get on it when i can. Some tweaks, some new additions with still plenty to go. Those refs u linked are unreal gauss, even though like you said it aint the compact it's still got a lot of things i've completely missed. Ignore the ejection port on both sides, i have still have to fill it in after collapsing the symm.
Always thought the C (compact version) never had the hand rail like that, although you have the shorter barrel I always thought the C was this (which imo is a much better looking rifle) :
i noticed one thing you miss on your model, the aimpoint buttons/skrews.... you know, the ones at the sides between the small and big scope....
look there, there you see them
yer i know i was going to put them in last night but ran out of time hopefully should get them in within a few days when i can get time and gotta redo the scope eye pieces.
Thing is with the hk g63 it's so customisable that it can look completely standard from the stock version. But i definitely think i'm going to give it a front grip to improve the silhouette as well as just more practice for me.
Since this is the first hard-surface modeling i've really done the more prac i can milk out of it the better. So it's probably going to end up looking more like your ref in the end Gilgamesh.
All of those parts that make up the main receiver area of the gun should be the same thickness, not protruding from each other like you've modeled them. Here's a bunch of pictures I just took of my brother's airsoft G36C:
Replies
This isn't exactly an easy gun to model, as I found out the hard way
And when you start the texturing, remember that most of the gun is actually made of hard polymers, except for the barrel and such. Here's some good reference for what these materials look like when done well
Hope this helps!
Dan K has done a very nice model and i think his comment is correct.
but this is very early and it shows that you can definitely give him some nice competition
I'm going in another style from the railing from some pics i found on pixagogo (http://www.pixagogo.com/9724354151).
Yiannisk: If if comes anywhere near close to dans i'll be a happy man
Prophecies: Yer it is, it shouldn't be there but for some reason it is
edit: Killed the lighting and just switched to reg skylight
especially cod. cod games tend to totally change the sights to make them more visible/usable on a wider range of displays, and these kinds of artistic license changes are ones you should be making based on your own judgement, not infinity ward's (and imo they 9 times out of 10 do it wrong)
thats like using STALKER for anatomy reference.
always always use the real thing or whatever you make will have all the errors of whatever you based it on.
edit: didnt notice pixagogo had already been linked. but ill leave the link here for no reason
http://www.pixagogo.com/9724354151
It's got a lot of noticable inaccuracies, you'll probably end up wanting to totally redo some components (though i guess at this stage theyre only really massed out anyway), but i wont point them out yet seeing as you only just now have a decent set of reference images.
It should allign with the Magwell (which is too broad) and the HKV Carryhandle.
You also missed that the receiver is tapering towards the top, visible at the hinge sectionnear the stock.
The frontpart of the HKV/Carryhandle should be straight aswell and not bend inwards like on you model.
The whole rifle is also mirrored, but maybe thats a thing you want?
Keep it up
i am sure with the good critique that is provided you will end up with something nice!
what harry is saying is absolutely right!
for your model you should follow actual photos of the weapon.
here's a few more.
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?p=312241
http://www.major-malfunction.com/maj_malf_5u_042.htm
http://www.mant3z.boo.pl/asg/P1010003.JPG
and the lego version
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pythagoreanlego/3054319894/
what you can use from these screenshots though is the quality of the shaders and textures.
There are certain problems you'll run into later on in the making of this model, especially when texturing, and looking at models that other people have done can give you a good sense of how other people approached certain problems. In this case the specific thing I would take away from what IW did is that they've added enough wear and tear to make it interesting and realistic but they didn't overdue it. Also they did a very good job of making the polymers look like polymers not look like metal.
I've seen too many G36 models where people texture it like any other gun and it ends up having metal scratches everywhere. And I know personally that some of the most trouble I had in doing mine is that most of the photo reference I found were of the guns in pristine condition.
But at the very least, I would use it as a quality bar to aim for. Not trying to start a flame war, just clarifying my statement earlier
I usually spend at least a few hours learning as much as i can about whatever it is i'm modeling. this is partly because not all the information available is true in 100% of cases and partly because modeling without a fairly good knowledge of how it all goes together is like shooting a film before reading the script
Totally. People often start out doing hardsurface stuff thinking it looks simple and you don't need to do extensive study like you do with organics. Luckily our boy here was clever enough to figure out quite early that it's to be treated with all the fastidiousness one would be willing to apply to anatomy, for example.
not at all! the reality though, is that you can give advice like that and have no control over how it's interpreted, i just quickly jumped on it for that reason - and this is espescially dangerous to people just starting out modelling hard surface from life because it's a lot less forgiving in some ways.
Just watched some of your baking tuts racer so they should come in handy when i start on the bake for this one
You really shouldn't change the proportions of things unless you're going for something really stylized. Nothing looks better than a realistic, accurate model, tbh.
Though sometimes you need to push certain forms to make it appear more beefy. That's fine until you start using it as an excuse to ignore accuracy altogether.
says the guy giving me accuracy crits and being nitpicky :P. So sometimes you need to be 100 percent accurate and other times its ok to let it slide right?
2-3cm is pretty significant in a gun that's like 8cm thick
Not really "letting it slide" but rather intentionally changing shapes to look more powerful. You should certainly strive to be as accurate as possible, but sometimes shapes make the weapon look wimpy and bring the rest of it down.
Inaccurate models of real weapons bother me however guns that don't feel at all powerful is an important problem as well.
no I know what you're saying man, I was just being a lil dick-ish
Wish someone would do a virtual type get up where they take the gun and do photos from every direction so you can rotate around the whole thing to see perfectly
It's an SL8 so some things are slightly different (in fact, almost everything except the furniture is different), but it should be helpful
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=164516325
gunbroker is a wonderful resource
http://gallery.gunsofthereich.com/g36k-84-1105/G36k_01.jpg.php
click for larger. Go up a level and he's got a ton of great shots of other German guns, such as the MG42.
Presume they do different types of G36C
look there, there you see them
Thing is with the hk g63 it's so customisable that it can look completely standard from the stock version. But i definitely think i'm going to give it a front grip to improve the silhouette as well as just more practice for me.
Since this is the first hard-surface modeling i've really done the more prac i can milk out of it the better. So it's probably going to end up looking more like your ref in the end Gilgamesh.