Hey everyone,
Been a while since I had anything nice to show, university has really been working me hard. I've been working away in my spare time on this RPG-7 and I've just finished the high and low poly versions and thought I might come on here to get some crits and advice before I move on.
High poly:
Low Poly (6,344 tris)
...and some reference,
Hit me!
Replies
Larger tubes = more sides.
Can we get an FPS shot with the rocket in the launcher KartoonHead?
Diffuse,
Spec,
Persp,
thats not something that would happen in real life and it is very obvious in the toolbag render of it
It's also not necessary to approach things from a 100% physical standpoint. Real time rendering pipelines are so far from being a physically accurate model that you need to look at your results and tweak accordingly.
of course it can happen if different tpes of paint have been used
Rockets usually don't have a lot of scratches, dings and other assorted damage. Because, y'know, those things have a tendency to explode when they hit something.
Maybe I've done this wrong, but I'm also using a gloss map and the paint is all one specular power on that map. The spec needs to have different values for different colours so that when they're 'added' together the spec looks consistent over colour borders. I'm pretty sure that's how it works.
I've redone the texture many times over since I put it up, using a much more saturated colour spec atm. I'll post the updates with the gloss map when I've made a start on the actual RPG-7.
@snader - neither would you paint shark teeth onto the part that's going to explode, but yes you are right, I'm redoing the material at the moment. I've also decided to go with the glossy painted warhead in your reference instead of the bumpy mat-finish one, it just looks more interesting.
@redrogue - yea that bugs me too, but from a 1st-person perspective you can hardly see the holes at all, probably could have gotten away with not modelling them in! The way I see it - 1st person: can't see them - 3rd person: way too far away for it to be noticable. The same reason I removed the strap clip bits from the front and back, you'd just never see them.
gloss, semi-gloss, flat, semi-flat, primer, acrylic, latex, oil based....
All would look different or have different properties
My eyes hurt.
this is my personal opinion and i am by no means a professional
Here are some close-up samples (maybe not the same element/alloy though) of chipped paint:
I'd try reducing your spec map a lot and upping the diffuse to be lighter, see how that works. You could also try adding a very thin border between the metal and colored paint to simulate the base paint, like in the animal one. You might not have sufficient texture res for that, though...
Keep it up!
Would you mind sharing your texturing workflow? Ta
Also I assume your using Photoshop - mind sharing the brushes your using?
Ta,
C
So here it is now, went with Snader's opinion of 'those things have a tendency to explode when they hit something' so my warhead is quite new and shiny. I also preferred the reference pics I found that showed a glossy and bumpy rocked rather than flat and rough. Let me know what you think anyway. Also, am I cool using greentooth on this thing? Is that an acceptable thing to do or do I need to have won some sorta prize or be better than I am to use him? I don't know how it works, just think he looks cool!
[IMG]http://www.polycount.com/forum/those things have a tendency to explode when they hit something[/IMG]
I like the subtle color variation on the metal parts - maybe some subtle scratches as well, as it's still quite even?
Very nice looking either way!
+1
the rest looks great but this one area really takes away from the final
the warhead has its own maps, and no gloss map because I didn't use a gloss map /shrug
As for brushes, I don't use anything fancy, just the standard photoshop brushes for wearing down the metal (I find the 'chalk' brush quite useful). For grunge I generally just grab a grimey stamp and turn on shape dynamics and/or scattering then paint away. Then use the same brush with the eraser to take away from it, and repeat until it doesn't look completely contrived. I also mostly have my brushes at 2% opacity and flow and just hack away to build up details. I make far too many mistakes to have everything at a high opacity.