I may be overthinking this one, but whats the best way to model padded objects such as the image above? Especially a very soft quilted walls and such. can it be modeled or leave the details in the texturing?
Hey guys, I was just wondering if this concept was given to you and you had to model this bookshelf, how would you approach modelling the details such as the woman and the leaves patterns? Thanks in advance!
Hey guys, I was just wondering if this concept was given to you and you had to model this bookshelf, how would you approach modelling the details such as the woman and the leaves patterns? Thanks in advance!
I would do a blockout, for the shelve itself, for the details too, and import for sculpt where projection master and layers are the big avantages in Zbrush, or you can either model de details and do some kitbash (not for the statue).
I may be overthinking this one, but whats the best way to model padded objects such as the image above? Especially a very soft quilted walls and such. can it be modeled or leave the details in the texturing?
Maybe put the details in normal or displacement slot? or use a pattern in Zbrush to apply a tileable alpha.
this is possible but would require a certain amount of time if you want to model it in your 3d app.
Hello everyone. I'm a new in 3D. Could anyone help to create a hole in a cylinder. It's difficult for me because a hole has a special form. It's a rhombus. As you can see I have some pinches.
Hello everyone. I'm a new in 3D. Could anyone help to create a hole in a cylinder. It's difficult for me because a hole has a special form. It's a rhombus. As you can see I have some pinches.
In theory what you have here is correct, and you can keep it like that by doing some manual adjustments.
You can add more geo and sides on this cylinder and work your way up from there too. ALSO, booleans are a fast way to buildup these shapes!
On this mag I have a lot of close, thin extrusions and edges which give me quite sharp edges when subdivided, so I fear it will not bake well (the edges look fairly weak from about 20 cm away), yet at the same time it isn't possible to make them softer since the geometry around is too close.
What to do in situations like this? Is it one of those worst case scenarios and you just have to hope the normal map picks up a little bit of it?
this is why you shouldnt always model zoomed in because when you zoom out you see its too aliased, i drew an edge flow that would help you out with that and you could tighten the edgeloops to your liking :
On this mag I have a lot of close, thin extrusions and edges which give me quite sharp edges when subdivided, so I fear it will not bake well (the edges look fairly weak from about 20 cm away), yet at the same time it isn't possible to make them softer since the geometry around is too close.
What to do in situations like this? Is it one of those worst case scenarios and you just have to hope the normal map picks up a little bit of it?
If its gonna be seen from a FPS view, yeah its fine though.
If it is TPS view, go delete some of these loops, without worried about the space between each creases(for the ones that has short space)...
Joao Sapiro heres what i would do that would make a cleaner and overall easier to work with mesh :
Hey guys, thanks for all the work you're doing in here. I'm still pretty new to SubD modeling, but I'm much more capable now than I once was, and a lot of the credit goes to this forum. As a bonus, I've been able to help other noobs with some common modeling issues.
That said, I keep running into a form that I find problematic, or at least I'm unsure how to handle it.
The shape is basically a smoothed cube that needs a square shape with rounded corners cut out of it. Hopefully the images communicate the issue.
And now towards my problem:
I'm trying to model this hard surface thing for practice:
But I have no idea how to achieve this bend grid with all the tiny holes.
Any ideas how that can be easily achieved?
NDO/Photoshop. Can be done in 3D for sure. Model it straight then bend it but you end up with a very dense mesh and adding such fine details in Photoshop is definitely faster aswell.
Steppenwolf: Thanks man! Yeah might be the best bet. Especially as I'm aiming towards the concept area with 3D anyways. WarrenM: Which still leaves 107 pages to look at. Sorry that I didn't get around it :v
Will browse through the pages in the upcoming days though.
Sure, but the information is there. It's fairly unproductive to keep posting the same question that's been answered several times just because someone doesn't want to dig through this thread.
Someone SHOULD distill the key things into the first post tho. Maybe with links to the relevant pages in the thread. Someone should ...
this one is supposed to be used for subsurfing afterwards, so how do i add an edge loop to this without breaking the lighting on the whole cylinder ?
You need more sides in the cylinder. I'd say maybe twice as many.
Basically your cylinder will break because when you apply the smoothing, the edge loops you put in place to hold that shape will pinch the cylinder because they will have a large influence on the topology. The more sides you have in the cylinder to start with, the less influence on the cylinder's topology the control loops you put in for smoothing will have.
i guessed it would be only possible with a highpoly cylinder. i use blender btw. im not very good with highpolies, so i tend to use very sharp edges to not get normal bakes full of errors.
still needing a lot of practice in the normals department...
I'm hoping someone could help me figure out a method of making a violin head scroll?
Do you have any attempts to show? However I'd go about it step-by-step. Begin by making the main block-out for the body of the scroll, don't think about cutting in holes yet. Get it to smooth nicely and then manually model the scroll, it's not really something you can do with modifiers, at-least not if you want it to be connected on each twist.
I was recently at a violin school for making and managed to snap some images from a blueprint sheet. Some of these images can't be found online so grab em while you can Enjoy!
I've also included a bunch of other material to aid in modelling, hope it helps. Wire-frames are not mine, so credits to whoever made them (Sorry don't know the name).
Hi, I've been reading this thread daily. Thanks to everybody who is helping out.
My question is about this model, some sort of cut-out of a cylinder, and the loops I highlighted in red. In the pic above the loops are evenly spaced, and I got pinching. So I tried to space them out (pic below) and I still get some pinching. How should I go about it? Thanks.
[IMG][/img]
Thank you, Cookedpeanut. Even with two loops instead of three, the problem persisted; there was still that artifact caused by the loops being too close together. Sometimes this happens so I decided to stop the loops altogether with a quad, and have a single loop running around the model, which solved everything. In the pic above the artifact is still visible, below is the definitive solution with the stopping poly marked in red.
I cant find the original tutorial but the easiest way to do this is by un-subdividing a cylinder and then insetting the faces
I don't know what software you're using, but to my knowledge there is no "unsubdivide" tool in Maya, which is the software I'm using. Is there a way to do the same thing in Maya without too much hassle? I could probably do it by subdividing a plane, rotating it 45 degrees, removing the corners and use a bend deformer to curve it into a cylinder... But that seems like a lot of work for something so simple.
I take a cylinder and give it a very deliberate number of edges, depending on the size of the knurling I want and add an equal number of height segments so I have even quads. After that I tesselate (same effect can be achieved by doing an inset by face and welding the result), at this point the graphite tools OR polyboost pre max 2010 come in handy. Select one of the diagonal edges inside a quad and under modify selection hit "select similar" you'll now have all the diagonal edges selected, then you can use an extrude and you'll have your knurling.
I don't know what software you're using, but to my knowledge there is no "unsubdivide" tool in Maya, which is the software I'm using. Is there a way to do the same thing in Maya without too much hassle? I could probably do it by subdividing a plane, rotating it 45 degrees, removing the corners and use a bend deformer to curve it into a cylinder... But that seems like a lot of work for something so simple.
So this is my attempt at doing this shape, two C's intersecting. I boolean'd two toruses, flattened what needed to be flat and fixed everything by pulling vertices and cutting edges.
I think the result is mediocre at best. There are no major artifacts and even no triangles at all but I feel this wasn't the right way to do it. Topology is all over the place. At the bottom of the pic you can see a detail of the topology and how I stopped the loops. I already shown this in the previous page and it looks ok artifact-wise, but I still wonder if there was a better way of doing this. Support loops are the bane of my existence, I just don't get them.
So this is my attempt at doing this shape, two C's intersecting. I boolean'd two toruses, flattened what needed to be flat and fixed everything by pulling vertices and cutting edges.
I think the result is mediocre at best. There are no major artifacts and even no triangles at all but I feel this wasn't the right way to do it. Topology is all over the place. At the bottom of the pic you can see a detail of the topology and how I stopped the loops. I already shown this in the previous page and it looks ok artifact-wise, but I still wonder if there was a better way of doing this. Support loops are the bane of my existence, I just don't get them.
I made this hex thing, but now that i did found it to be too thick and not only that, i found i cant replicate it easily for it to connect together to form a fence or something. Should i start over or there a secret way to do this?
and I watched the knurl video above, i ended up with the same issue, basically going for making the design to using it to be part of a model. I duplicated it but cant merge them togehter without ending up with a fatter squares between:
and I watched the knurl video above, i ended up with the same issue, basically going for making the design to using it to be part of a model. I duplicated it but cant merge them togehter without ending up with a fatter squares between:
Not trying to advertise or anything, but I made a tutorial on how to make this type of pattern, and how to make it tile correctly.
Not sure if this is the right topic for this, but I am new here and not sure where to ask about this.
Started modeling objects for games in my free time many years ago, when normal maps for games was new (2004) and I never understood the high poly to low poly workflow.
I would approach modeling like this:
(model in this case is a Thompson M1921 weapon)
1. Model poly by poly, no boxmodeling, and no sub-d. Aiming for a reasonable polycount and adding a bit more in spaces where a lower count would be too visible (cylindrical shapes viewed along their longitude axis). Then I would end up with 7000-12000 polies.
2. Unwrap and slap some normal map on it generated from the texture.
3. Add some AO
Now I am going to guess on how it is supposed to be from what I learned so far:
1. Make high poly model (how many polies? 100k?)
2. Do not unwrap highpoly because not needed for baking normal. (is this correct?)
3. Downsize the highpoly model to a lowpoly one. How is this supposed to work? Using some modifier or similar function in a 3d modeling package would not really work if I want precise control over what gets reduced. Or does one model the whole thing from scratch? Which again seems a lot of work to make a few things look a bit rounder. Why not simply go for 20-50% more polies in the first place on areas that need more detail?
As you can see from the text, 3. is the point I dont really understand and would like to ask for advice for.
Hello, I cannot start new threads as of yet, so I hope this is a good place to ask my question.
I am marking out my base topology plan on the physical object I am modeling.
This is the door to an Audi R8. So the white lines are either heavy curves or creases / open border edges. The red arrows point to where my main edges will be for the topology in question. The yellow highlight is the adjacent component to the red arrows.
I plan to use this as a high poly model in the end via TurboSmooth. So when you have a shape like this, where it needs to be smooth from all angles but starts a gradual crease or sharp curve midway threw the smooth surface, would I be better:
To use a single edge loop that forks off into a pole forming 2 new paths?
Or keep it more of a square parallel pattern with the edges that meet at the V point almost on top of each other?
This happens twice on the door, crease starts very soon at the bottom, but halfway down on the top.
Replies
I may be overthinking this one, but whats the best way to model padded objects such as the image above? Especially a very soft quilted walls and such. can it be modeled or leave the details in the texturing?
Hey guys, I was just wondering if this concept was given to you and you had to model this bookshelf, how would you approach modelling the details such as the woman and the leaves patterns? Thanks in advance!
I would do a blockout, for the shelve itself, for the details too, and import for sculpt where projection master and layers are the big avantages in Zbrush, or you can either model de details and do some kitbash (not for the statue).
this is possible but would require a certain amount of time if you want to model it in your 3d app.
In theory what you have here is correct, and you can keep it like that by doing some manual adjustments.
You can add more geo and sides on this cylinder and work your way up from there too. ALSO, booleans are a fast way to buildup these shapes!
On this mag I have a lot of close, thin extrusions and edges which give me quite sharp edges when subdivided, so I fear it will not bake well (the edges look fairly weak from about 20 cm away), yet at the same time it isn't possible to make them softer since the geometry around is too close.
What to do in situations like this? Is it one of those worst case scenarios and you just have to hope the normal map picks up a little bit of it?
If its gonna be seen from a FPS view, yeah its fine though.
If it is TPS view, go delete some of these loops, without worried about the space between each creases(for the ones that has short space)...
Quite a nice way to do it, thanks
First of all, thanks to all people helping out in here. So much knowledge!:)
And now towards my problem:
I'm trying to model this hard surface thing for practice:
But I have no idea how to achieve this bend grid with all the tiny holes.
Any ideas how that can be easily achieved?
Here's what I have so far!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/plwciidkzcujn5i/Screw_tank_holes.PNG?dl=0
Thanks a lot!
That said, I keep running into a form that I find problematic, or at least I'm unsure how to handle it.
The shape is basically a smoothed cube that needs a square shape with rounded corners cut out of it. Hopefully the images communicate the issue.
How would you handle this?
Maybe like this?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks Dan!
NDO/Photoshop. Can be done in 3D for sure. Model it straight then bend it but you end up with a very dense mesh and adding such fine details in Photoshop is definitely faster aswell.
WarrenM: Which still leaves 107 pages to look at. Sorry that I didn't get around it :v
Will browse through the pages in the upcoming days though.
Someone SHOULD distill the key things into the first post tho. Maybe with links to the relevant pages in the thread. Someone should ...
If that's for a game you might be better just using an alpha for the grid part anyway - no need to model it?
You need more sides in the cylinder. I'd say maybe twice as many.
Basically your cylinder will break because when you apply the smoothing, the edge loops you put in place to hold that shape will pinch the cylinder because they will have a large influence on the topology. The more sides you have in the cylinder to start with, the less influence on the cylinder's topology the control loops you put in for smoothing will have.
i guessed it would be only possible with a highpoly cylinder. i use blender btw. im not very good with highpolies, so i tend to use very sharp edges to not get normal bakes full of errors.
still needing a lot of practice in the normals department...
I've been attempting different methods over the past couple day but I can't seem to wrap my head around it.
Do you have any attempts to show? However I'd go about it step-by-step. Begin by making the main block-out for the body of the scroll, don't think about cutting in holes yet. Get it to smooth nicely and then manually model the scroll, it's not really something you can do with modifiers, at-least not if you want it to be connected on each twist.
I've also included a bunch of other material to aid in modelling, hope it helps. Wire-frames are not mine, so credits to whoever made them (Sorry don't know the name).
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5xd238gh02ob9kp/AAC-uiLTMDjJ8BHT7DKfTXdKa?dl=0
There's also a detailed diagram of the scroll which I took a picture of...
is it done by pushing and pulling the vertices technique? how long did it take to complete this model?
My question is about this model, some sort of cut-out of a cylinder, and the loops I highlighted in red. In the pic above the loops are evenly spaced, and I got pinching. So I tried to space them out (pic below) and I still get some pinching. How should I go about it? Thanks.
[IMG][/img]
Connect the corner to the adjacent corner:
Then push the inside corner slightly in to reduce any flaring that might occur from pinching.
[IMG][/img]
I don't know what software you're using, but to my knowledge there is no "unsubdivide" tool in Maya, which is the software I'm using. Is there a way to do the same thing in Maya without too much hassle? I could probably do it by subdividing a plane, rotating it 45 degrees, removing the corners and use a bend deformer to curve it into a cylinder... But that seems like a lot of work for something so simple.
I found this thread when i searched for knurling hopefully that helps
http://www.polycount.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2091989&highlight=knurling#post2091989
This is an old video about how to do it in maya:
[ame]
Another pic for future reference about how to knurl in max:
I think the result is mediocre at best. There are no major artifacts and even no triangles at all but I feel this wasn't the right way to do it. Topology is all over the place. At the bottom of the pic you can see a detail of the topology and how I stopped the loops. I already shown this in the previous page and it looks ok artifact-wise, but I still wonder if there was a better way of doing this. Support loops are the bane of my existence, I just don't get them.
How would you guys have done this?
Thank you very, very much for the detailed and in-depth tutorials.
Looks fine to me. If it smooths correctly, roll with it. If anything, I would use less geo so you could maintain wider edges.
Show us what you have tried and we can help. This thread is filled with all of the shapes and techniques to make this shape.
I made this hex thing, but now that i did found it to be too thick and not only that, i found i cant replicate it easily for it to connect together to form a fence or something. Should i start over or there a secret way to do this?
and I watched the knurl video above, i ended up with the same issue, basically going for making the design to using it to be part of a model. I duplicated it but cant merge them togehter without ending up with a fatter squares between:
Not trying to advertise or anything, but I made a tutorial on how to make this type of pattern, and how to make it tile correctly.
https://gumroad.com/l/GZCvz
(Use the promo code "polycount" to get 100% off. 5 uses only!)
Edit:// 2 uses left. I really hope Dklang is one of them, if not, PM me.
Started modeling objects for games in my free time many years ago, when normal maps for games was new (2004) and I never understood the high poly to low poly workflow.
I would approach modeling like this:
(model in this case is a Thompson M1921 weapon)
1. Model poly by poly, no boxmodeling, and no sub-d. Aiming for a reasonable polycount and adding a bit more in spaces where a lower count would be too visible (cylindrical shapes viewed along their longitude axis). Then I would end up with 7000-12000 polies.
2. Unwrap and slap some normal map on it generated from the texture.
3. Add some AO
Now I am going to guess on how it is supposed to be from what I learned so far:
1. Make high poly model (how many polies? 100k?)
2. Do not unwrap highpoly because not needed for baking normal. (is this correct?)
3. Downsize the highpoly model to a lowpoly one. How is this supposed to work? Using some modifier or similar function in a 3d modeling package would not really work if I want precise control over what gets reduced. Or does one model the whole thing from scratch? Which again seems a lot of work to make a few things look a bit rounder. Why not simply go for 20-50% more polies in the first place on areas that need more detail?
As you can see from the text, 3. is the point I dont really understand and would like to ask for advice for.
Example screenshots
I am marking out my base topology plan on the physical object I am modeling.
This is the door to an Audi R8. So the white lines are either heavy curves or creases / open border edges. The red arrows point to where my main edges will be for the topology in question. The yellow highlight is the adjacent component to the red arrows.
I plan to use this as a high poly model in the end via TurboSmooth. So when you have a shape like this, where it needs to be smooth from all angles but starts a gradual crease or sharp curve midway threw the smooth surface, would I be better:
To use a single edge loop that forks off into a pole forming 2 new paths?
Or keep it more of a square parallel pattern with the edges that meet at the V point almost on top of each other?
This happens twice on the door, crease starts very soon at the bottom, but halfway down on the top.
Thanks in advance.
MythN7