Okay, I've been learning to do UV mapping and Ihave seen the 3ds Max 8 feature video on it...
How well does it work?
And also, when you do that rotating the pull points (in the video) when editing the UVs created, how do you know how much to rotate it?
Replies
with the rotating... who cares? in the end you can rotate it a smuch as you want, but normally you see connections between the effectors and the uv vertices so you should see what is up and what is down...
these are no magic "uv everything nicely" buttons, it's good to be able to do it yourself the manual way. also, while peltmapping can give you nicely unfolded uv's, that layout might be totally weird to paint on, forcing you to settle for a middle ground. on complex assets you'll want to use a combination of manual and automatic methods anyway.
for pain-free uv'ing, also look into the projection modifier, the relax-tool, the possibility of modifing your mesh before applying uv's and then morphing it back into it's old shape and the render-to-texture functions that are great for uving something so that it's easy to paint and then transferring that texture paintjob to a more efficient uv-layout later on.
just my opinion, I'm sure it works great for some people.
Common problems with pelt mapping:
- Failing to get the gizmo to face the right way. If the align gizmo is facing the opposite direction it will attempt to unfold the mesh backwards, making a mess. To get around this issue I find using the "align to view" button works great.
- The default spring cage is almost always too small and needs to be scaled up 200-300% before simulating a pelt pull.
- People fail to plot their seams correctly. People assume that it will do complex shapes like hands/finger or around curves perfectly and get frustrated when it doesn't automatically unwrap everything perfectly.
- Lack of use leads to "this is crap I'm never using it again". People often try it once on a really complex model and fail to get the results they want. Start out on something simple just to learn.
The results are okay with pelt mapping, but seems I can never get rid of the distortion completely, there's always a slight zigsag in the checker pattern no matter what I do. Relaxing afterwards makes everything even worse: more distortion and overlapping faces and the like.
I get better results with UVHelp, assuming same mesh and same seams at the end.
The results are okay with pelt mapping, but seems I can never get rid of the distortion completely, there's always a slight zigsag in the checker pattern no matter what I do. Relaxing afterwards makes everything even worse: more distortion and overlapping faces and the like.
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Try flipping the piece and then relaxing. believe it or not your UV piece has a front and a back, if the back is facing forward and you try to relax it will try to flip it while it relaxes, making a mess. So for some pieces you might need to flip, relax and flip it back the way you want it.
Also try the other relax options and don't forget you can select a few verts and relax just those. There is no sense in screwing up the whole thing if you need to relax just a few places.
the mentioned LSCM plugin can be found here:
http://luxinia.de/index.php/ArtTools/3dsmax
shameless plug
the mentioned LSCM plugin can be found here:
http://luxinia.de/index.php/ArtTools/3dsmax
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Hi
i have problem with your LSCM plugin, becouse i have msvcr71.dll into my 3dsmax directory but it don't work fine and said dll failed to initialize, my 3ds max relase are 7.0, if you can hlp me
Thank's a lot
Disc
Hey Vig can you give a few pointers on how you use the pelt? I have tried to get the thing to unwrap something as simple as a cube and it gives shitty results.
Alex
There is a MAX version as well.
The most common problems I see are;
- People expect too much from it and they fail to plot seams correctly. They plot a tiny seam down the back/torso of the character and expect pelt to unwrap the arms and legs perfectly. Instead of breaking up a model like they would normally.
- People fail to see the importance of aligning the planar gizmo before pulling.
- People don't realize their piece is inside out and pull anyway, resulting in the pelt stretcher trying to flip the piece over while it pulls. Then they keep pulling because eventually it flips and flattens out, but then they relax and it tried to flip it back over. Then much crying about how pelt f'ed up.
I really really wish they would let you save out different stretcher frames. Also most of the time I scale up the stretcher 200% before the first pull. If the stretcher is too small it smashes things that get close to it if you continue to pull.
Some times like with a hand if you pull it once and see what springs the fingers are pointing at you can quickly select those springs and move them all out at the same time using the scale tool. It will keep the hand from becoming a circle-mess, stubby smashed fingers, and large stretched palm.
No tool is perfect and pelt could use some new features, but its nice to have in addition to the other tools in the unwrapping shed.
best program ever!
Alex
Then just use the seams, break them and then relax. Nobody forces you to deal with the spring part. It's just one of several options, take what you like and leave the rest.
I've never found a use for pelt mapping. The relax by faces tool was all i ever needed. For the really messy jobs I would use relax by center to get everything spread out then a relax by face to clean up. Never had a problem with it.
"The seam plotting on pelt works great, it's quick, but the damn springs part just pisses me off too much, cause there is no need for it. "
Then just use the seams, break them and then relax. Nobody forces you to deal with the spring part. It's just one of several options, take what you like and leave the rest.
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Noren can you elaborate? I was under the impression it was an all or nothing deal with Pelt mapping in max. Thanks.
Alex
basically you set your seams as usual, hit "simulate pelt pulling" once to break the seams and then exit the pelt-tool to continue like mvelasquez described. I usually don't even bother with the peltseams, just map everthing as a "solid" mesh without seams as a start and then break edges and relax.
Alex