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Mechanical SUB-D tips and tricks

Since there really arent a lot of resources on this subject i figured i'de start a thread, heres a lil thing i made for TK to show him how to do soft intersections with floating geometry. Its not always perfect but works pretty well and you can touch up the spots that dont look right in seconds in ps after you render normals.

[edit] Ill explain waht im doing here a little too, extruding/beveling/whatever extra edges out of the shape perpidicular to the plane of the surface which you are trying to add an indent/extrusion to so that you dont get a hard intersection. It basicly will just match up how it shades and fool the normals renderer into thinking its on the same plane so you dont get a hard edge.

[edit][edit] All floating geo will cause some problems when rendering ambient shadows of course, but that is generally easy to paint over in ps.

softintersection4dv.jpg

So feel free to contribute everybody. And i can post some more stuff if people have specific questions.

Replies

  • malcolm
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    malcolm polycount sponsor
    F this whole floating normal map malarkey, who has the secret tips to make hi res models without the floaty bits. Where is the magic to just make the high res mechanical models quickly.
  • EarthQuake
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    Yeah fuck, why would anyone ever want to save time? I see your point now, thats the stupidest shit i've ever heard of.
  • motives
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    motives polycounter lvl 18
    well, if u need it for real-time use i guess its kinda bad to have floating bits all over your model smile.gif

    As for the secret "make high-res art" button its a max only feature malcolm wink.gif
  • poopinmymouth
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    poopinmymouth polycounter lvl 19
    I think anyone who has ever worked on a true next gen game as a high poly modeler, knows that floating bits is the way to go. All of Kenneth Scott's Doom 3 high poly models were COVERED in floaty bits. Every piece of high poly I've made in the past two years has had floaty bits. In fact most objects in the real world aren't molded completely out of one chunk of metal/rock/wood, and are instead made of parts.

    I'm sure anyone with high poly skills COULD make the model water tight, if they wanted to steal money from their employer by being as wasteful of time as they possibly could to satisfy their own artistic ego, but for those of us with the desire to be efficient, and to get more assets of our own into the game, I highly suggest figuring out how to fake detail without welding it into the high poly mesh.

    To the normal map baker, it all looks the same, and the high poly never goes in the game, so there really is no downfall whatsoever to this creation method.

    poop.gif
  • KDR_11k
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    KDR_11k polycounter lvl 18
    I usually have my bits float over the texture rather than the model...
  • EarthQuake
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    Yeah but that wont compensate for UV distortion that way.
  • KDR_11k
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    KDR_11k polycounter lvl 18
    That's what soft selection is good for tongue.gif.
  • SyaPed
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    SyaPed polycounter lvl 18
    Cgtalk had a similar thread,

    Cgtalk Subd thread
  • SouL
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    SouL polycounter lvl 18
    BONER-URGES-STUDIOS
  • EarthQuake
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    LOL YOU SAID BONER
  • malcolm
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    malcolm polycount sponsor
    Thanks for the tips guys! Next can you tell me the theory behind modeling a cube and making it next gen game ready? Floaty bits don't cut it for renders where the model cast shadows, as well the uv's are a mess with all these floaty bits over lapping in the uv space. I realize you are trying to represent with some game theory here but I was interested in some techniques on mechanical modeling that will be uv'd and rendered.
  • EarthQuake
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    Well theres really no trick to that, you just model it like that... Im not really sure what you're asking?
  • malcolm
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    malcolm polycount sponsor
    Just wondering if anyone has any magic to whip these types of models out quickly, I'm always looking for ways to improve my workflow and speed. I was having a bit of fun in the first post wasn't trying to diss you or anything.
  • EarthQuake
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    Well the only really tip i can give you for that stuff is block out the model, keep it real simple with just the basic forms, keep good flow so you can easily cut in new edges along your loops all at once. I often find my self going too dense with meshes and it just ends up wasting a lot of time.
  • Toomas
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    Toomas polycounter lvl 18
    malcolm for more complex stuff i would make the model with floaty bits and then render displacement map for the less complex model used for renders.
  • Eric Chadwick
  • malcolm
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    malcolm polycount sponsor
    Eric I sure do! Just wondering if there was any new magic to speed this junk up.
  • retleks
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    retleks polycounter lvl 18
    No tricks really. Though it helps to A) know how to use all the tools at your disposal (subd, nurbs, patches...etc) and B)be extremely patient and anal. Ultimately it is easy, just time consuming.
    Modeling water tight high poly mechanical models (5 times fast) is a lot like like going insane, it takes time, dedication, perseverience and ingrediant X.
  • Eric Chadwick
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    malcolm it seems like you're asking how to model subdivided meshes for offline rendering, instead of how to model for normalmaps to use for realtime rendering. Yes?

    If so then Toomas' idea might work. Seems like extra work to me, but I don't do that kind of rendering anymore. Though retleks seems dead-on about the perseverance, gotta be into that kind of noodling, just like any other discipline I guess.
  • EarthQuake
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    So here is something i did to show a guy on luxology boards some fancy hard edge stuff using sub-d... might be usefull to some people
    hardedges.jpg
  • sledgy
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    sledgy polycounter lvl 18
    Nice tips thanks.
  • John Warner
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    John Warner polycounter lvl 18
    cool man.. but imo, if you were to normal map that sword......

    why not just paint the normals manualy? you can go back and push it further, make sure it's sharp as a tack, no artifacts are possible..

    just grab a sphere, put it on a grid in 3d studio max, generate the normal map from the grid, and color sample all the little facits of the sphere. you could paint that sword onto a grid, and it would look awesome in 2 minutes. i'd also like to point out that in a lot of cases some models don't have enough unique UV space to take advantage of floating geo. i find that doing little painted normals tricks is a godsend.

    obviously this totally depends on your polycount, and what you're making... but personaly i think this whole high poly geo thing is out of control. i've seen people opening up zbrush to sculpt in little groves where 5 minutes and extremely good use of the nvidia photoshop filter would have created an overlay that would have made it impossible to tell the difference.
  • Eric Chadwick
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    I agree on the Zbrush micro-detail point, except that for me using a 3D painter is often easier to paint surface details that painting just in 2D.

    But I'd love to see how you would paint the sword normal map and still make that tip come out well. I can see how you could easily make a decent gradient for the shaft, but getting smooth transitions to the tip and to the base of the shaft are tough to paint well.
  • MoP
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    MoP polycounter lvl 18
    I have to say I agree with that bastard Per.
  • EarthQuake
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    Also when you're painting it you completely ignore the relation between high and low, you will get smoothing errors painting out that shape, and then just applying it to a low poly model.... That makes no sense, unless you were just going to sitck it on an alpha mapped plane.

    Also about floating geo bit, really one of the biggest adfantages is this. Say you have a slightly organic mechanical shape with lots of curves in it, your uv is never going to be perfectly undistored, so adding details after the fact will get you distortion when its displayed on the mesh. I remember someone having some odd solution for this but really when you have to counteract things like that you really are spending much much more time editing those details than it takes to just model them.
  • John Warner
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    John Warner polycounter lvl 18
    oh for god sakes, common guys... I'm a big supporter of honest and open criticism, so i wont get mad, but how's about this for an idea: if you could stick your head out of your clicky clubs for a minute and give someone the benefit of the doubt, everyone's communication might not seem like it's coming from a malicious ass hole. I'm being breif because i don't consider you people idiots and don't want to bullshit, not because i want to sit back and crack witty puns to make up for my lack of skill. i guess being honest and open is too scary. perhaps i need to adopt an Internet persona in order to not upset people... maybe I'll start saying "methinks" at the end of my scentences.

    in my opinion, UV space does matter. I'm finding that when i work with super low texture sizes especially, and a lot of geo shares the same texture space, you can't get away with a lot of the straight up generate-from-high-poly technique because there isn't enough unique texture space to bend the normals across a large surface. there are cases like that, i deal with them allll the time, and often times i find that if I've very clever with my UV space, i can paint in little beleved edges here, little slopes in the normal map there, and still get away with using a lot of duplicate UV space. does this sound that crazy?

    i also think that for certain objects, it is easier to hand paint the normal map. and where do you get off making the assumption that i think that this is a way to handle complex detail? did i make the statement that i think ken Scott should have hand painted the doom models?

    I've seen some AWESOME stuff done with hand painting normal maps on SIMPLE geometry, and if it's done properly it can take a fraction of the time. apparently you made the jump to assume that i was referring to all normal map creation in history & the future..
  • Pedro Amorim
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    uhhhh look at me!!! my dick is bigger!!!
    c'mon guys.. whatever


    (post for comic relief only)
  • dejawolf
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    dejawolf polycounter lvl 18
    well, personally i prefer whipping out the red green and blue channel quite often in photoshop, instead of modeling the detail, although its most efficient for flat surfaces,
    or when you want to add nuts and bolts.
  • motives
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    motives polycounter lvl 18
    both techs has its pros and cons... The discussion is pointless. For some stuff modelling is better and for some s-filter is the way to go. Sure we can enlighten people in what situation one method is to prefer rather than the other but now point goin all crazy about it.

    you all suck, i win!
  • rooster
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    rooster mod
    john_warner, perhaps a small example would make it easier for people to hear to your points?
  • coldkodiak
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    coldkodiak polycounter lvl 17
    [ QUOTE ]
    both techs has its pros and cons... The discussion is pointless. For some stuff modelling is better and for some s-filter is the way to go. Sure we can enlighten people in what situation one method is to prefer rather than the other but now point goin all crazy about it.

    you all suck, i win!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The obvious truth is stated, duh guys!



    btw wazzup EQ.
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