This is the sweet spot for your low-poly models. Post 'em if you've got 'em!Low-poly hasn't really been a requirement in the games industry for a long while now. This thread is for low-poly art style appreciation, so please take note of these rough guidelines:
- Keep models under 1,000 triangles.
- Scenes are fine, if all models are low poly.
Some dedicated low-poly modelling tools now exist that make this art style a lot easier to produce;
Crocotile3D &
BlockbenchHere's a handy list of ways to make your art look right in mainstream 3D software:
Low-Poly Art Style Guide
Replies
i have tried the test of raphael nadal ^^ it s for gameloft no ?
be carrefull the animation is too important !
personelly i prefer the original higth contrast
(sorry for my bad english ^^)
I feel like I'm spamming this thread at this point but I made some more changes. Last post with this I promise :P
Hopefully I can call this done now.
Short video of me rotating the model in 3ds max: http://www.bradm3d.com/TenisPlayerVersion3/TenisPlayerVersion3.html
(btw texture filtering is off in the video, and yeah, I like it better now with texture filtering off, )
Looks good, good luck on your entry hope you land the gig.
540 tris.
128x128 tex
but yeah thanks guy :O... People seem to like this thing alot.
PS: talking about antialias, anyway the DS can render a very light AA, wich is quite similar to (and a bit more unprecise than) the Soften filter (size 1,0) on 3DS Max. But on the other hand, there isn't map filter on DS, and the way it render the textures is often destructive!
By the way, great job Muzz! I'm making a transforming tank for a final project, but it looks like child's play compared to yours.
Anyway it seems that there is also a normal texture "filtering", wich shows the pixels quite clearly.
Thanks in advance for letting me know.
Usually it is best to paint them at final res as there are details that wont make it in the transfer.
It can be a little tough getting "sub pixel detail" by hand, but it just takes a little practice and study of professional textures. I use the sharpen tool a lot personally to make the textures come out a lot stronger, but it still needs touch ups after as the sharpen tool can give an undesirable look.
Mathis had some great thoughts on the idea.
http://www.poopinmymouth.com/tutorial/resize.htm
The reason for that is that you have a direct control of how the end result will turn into on the pixel level. This becomes quickly noticeable if you use tools such as the gradient tool or certain brushes with smooth gradients. Whenever you downsample something like that it gets muddy and blurred at spots where its supposed to be sharp or well defined in the pixel level.
-woog
An old mesh, I started a long time ago...
I miss your website
Squiggly_P:
You can find all my old & new works here now
In progress:
540 tris
where the hell have you been lol?
This dude was awesome ---> http://picasaweb.google.fr/jmasseronblog/Old_stuff#5412446809504776418
Thanks for the good advice.
I started off 256x256 then quickly switched to 128x128.
Like u said, working in pixelperfect size is far supirior.
Working in a higher res basicly make u do allot of detail (work) that does not even show in the end.
This is my first Low Polly ever by the way (Yeay)!
hope u like it!
/D
Here is T90 tank that doesn't look like t90 , 335 tri's and 512 tex.
I wanna play a game where that is the main character.
+1
Really stylish character. Would love to see this guy in action! Fantastic work!
Love the character, the work on your site is fantastic too!
MattQ86, your buildings are really inspirating. If I can ask, what kind of game are you working on?
Finally, I wanted to create some sort of an huge MagLev train, 3 floors high (I don't know why, I simply wanted to, hehe)... This is a standard wagon, but I'm going to make different ones (and improve the texture, I have some empty space).
-Usually the hands are flat, the arms are 4-sided and legs are 5-sided, while the entire body can vary from 6 to 10 sides normally (8 is enough).
-The texture goes often from 64x64 to 256x256, and I assure you that 128x128 is enough to cover the entire body with a good detail.
-The light is flat 99% of times, meaning that there are no software shadows. All the shades are done with the texture!
-Antialias and Map Filter are usually disabled, in order to get a more similar look to the final product.
Give it a try! And also take a look to all the previuous images in this thread, so you can better understand the best way to model a low-poly (or DS) character! I learned this way.
Ok, here is a small update to my MagLev train. Just added the engine and did some little touches to the texture. Do you think it's good?
You should get some reference too.
There is so much wrong with the head I´m not even sure where to start.
Btw:
Does anyone know how to disable backface culling on an already created object in Max 9?
I turned backface culling off in the preferences but it only works when I create a new object...the model I´ve been working on with backface culling turned on is not affected by this.
Not sure how to get the poly count o-o -noob-
I hope this still counts as low-poly though..
I don't know how to texture.. ; A ;
I probably screwed this model up soooo bad..it's my first 3d model..
PLEASE HELP ; ^ ;
He doesn't have a name yet..