CHARACTER COLLECTIBLE (OR HIGH POLY), SYMMETRY, POSING
polycounter lvl 6
I like to improve (or even create a good) workflow while working on collectibles.
The workflow for a character collectibles is I think:
- Body (Basemesh, sphere, whatever) in symmetry (incl. details like skin, scars)
- Clothing (in MD create the bases, in ZB detailing it)
- posing (with transpose master)
after the posing is done,
clothing will be stretched, wrong folds on places, creating new folds
muscles will have to be deformed to if visible etc…
(which will make some stuff I made in step 1 and 2 redundant)
What is your workflow to prevent that redundant work?
Should I do in Step 1 and 2 only the super basics because if I have to touch it either way later?
Can you share some tips here?
I mean can live with that, but also I want to be effective regarding time constraints, etc. 
Thanks so much!
Replies
Collectibles are living from the "right anatomy" sculpted in pose. Its common to pose a char with detailed skin pores on top but in the end you have to redo a lot if the char is posed. Collectibles do take a very long time todo cause you need to sculpt everythig twice. No symmetry.
I only wished there where some tutorials or tips on that collectibles stuff, like also what is important at the end so that stuff is actually printable, etc. Even tutorials to pay for would be nice but it seems rare.
If you are that good its no problem to get the info from the other Artists working with you on the same statue.
Collectibles are "resculpted" from the Art department several times. They help you out. You get this done as a team.
Dont focus on the print. Make first some great art.
Been doing a fair amount of these lately.
There seems to be no 'set' way, but as stated above the pose is very important. Also how the fig looks at all angles.
For me personally I start with symmetry and get about 80% of the way done.
Then I decimate and rig it, (Fast rough rig)
Get lots of poses, really push it, find the best.
Move the sculpt over to chosen pose.
Sculpt in the anatomy and clothing as needed. Maybe use MD, but tbh, its is often too fine and realistic weirdly, so I have started just sculpting cloth.
Finalize, finish, split, key, and print prep (A big overseen part of the process)
-Fin
@Sam yes MD seems pretty cool, how do you mean it is "too fine and realistic weirdly"?
I have been thinking about it a couple of weeks ago if I should even bother with MD and start sculpting it by from scratch or just use the MD-Stuff as a base.
btw. love your stuff!!
For MD.. I find on small minis it is too fine and realistic. On those small ones (28 - 70mm) you tend to have to really accentuate details, push the big ones, loose the rest and then stylise in some way.
Its good to have a few clear details for the collectors to paint well. Big shapes, not alot of noisy stuff.
So on the smaller stuff its often just large details, simplified and stylized that are needed. Md struggles with this stuff.
Also you often have to art direct fabrics heavily, up to every shape.... and thats a real pain in MD.
If you are confident in fabric sculpting, its often best to do it yourself for small minis.
For bigger stuff where you can add more details, progress into secondary and tertiary, and the look can be more realistic, I recon it can be more useful.
S