Hi, I think you should try adding supporting edges next to your cut, and try using averaged normals instead of explicit normals, I think both solutions could give better results, but I thing adding chamfers on your some edges of your models will give you better bakes. Usually, when you get really dark lines on your models after using smoothing group will lead to some problems in your bakes, or at least thats what Ive been told, and it seems true most of the time. Good luck and hope that was helpful!
Are you baking with a cage in max? make sure you are using averaged mesh normals and not explicit. The best way to do this though is to split all of the UV's where you have a 45 degree angle and then use textools a free max tool to assign different smoothing groups to each uv island. That way to aren't going to have harsh gradients in your normal map and is better for mip mapping and distance viewing.
Also its best to view your normal in a program like Marmoset toolbag
Adding chamfers is a good idea. Alternatively, you could make a cut on each of the 90-degree angles. After you do that, make sure you harden the border edges and make sure the rest of the edges are smooth.
Please stop telling beginners to just add chamfers. It doesn't always work, and it tells them that adding geometry is the solution to every problem.
@jayantbhatt007 Always start with how detailed you want your lowpoly model to be. From there, Tangent-Space normals can only "fix" angles up to a certain degree, based on how many pixels you have to work with and what bit-depth you're working with. I have a personal rule to split any edge that is 60-70°. Splitting means "hard edge" or "smoothing group change", and absolutely requires that you split that edge on the UVs. If I absolutely want as few seams on the texture as possible, chamfering the edge can help.
A good tip for learning how to do these is to always bake an Object-Space normal along side your Tangent-Space normal. Then set up a scene like this: Highpoly(with nothing) next to Lowpoly(with Object-space-normals) next to the same Lowpoly(with Tangent-Space normals). Compare them. Do the edges render the same? Are the flat bits flat? There's gonna be a tiny bit of variance, but they should look the same.
Now go experiment. Try different methods and come out smarter in the end. And straighten out your UVs, it'll be easier to texture, especially if you want tiling textures or decals. Apply a brick texture to your current model to see what I mean.
Please stop telling beginners to just add chamfers. It doesn't always work, and it tells them that adding geometry is the solution to every problem.
@jayantbhatt007 Always start with how detailed you want your lowpoly model to be. From there, Tangent-Space normals can only "fix" angles up to a certain degree, based on how many pixels you have to work with and what bit-depth you're working with. I have a personal rule to split any edge that is 60-70°. Splitting means "hard edge" or "smoothing group change", and absolutely requires that you split that edge on the UVs. If I absolutely want as few seams on the texture as possible, chamfering the edge can help.
A good tip for learning how to do these is to always bake an Object-Space normal along side your Tangent-Space normal. Then set up a scene like this: Highpoly(with nothing) next to Lowpoly(with Object-space-normals) next to the same Lowpoly(with Tangent-Space normals). Compare them. Do the edges render the same? Are the flat bits flat? There's gonna be a tiny bit of variance, but they should look the same.
Now go experiment. Try different methods and come out smarter in the end. And straighten out your UVs, it'll be easier to texture, especially if you want tiling textures or decals. Apply a brick texture to your current model to see what I mean.
Thanks, man I will give it a shot but baking is really annoying in 3ds max.I did the same method in xnormals and I got the very good results without breaking the uvws.
I really love these normalmap error threads. First of all: Make sure to view the model + normals properly. The shading looks totally off on your screens.
Replies
Also its best to view your normal in a program like Marmoset toolbag
Reference
http://polycount.com/discussion/107196/youre-making-me-hard-making-sense-of-hard-edges-uvs-normal-maps-and-vertex-counts/p1
@jayantbhatt007
Always start with how detailed you want your lowpoly model to be. From there, Tangent-Space normals can only "fix" angles up to a certain degree, based on how many pixels you have to work with and what bit-depth you're working with. I have a personal rule to split any edge that is 60-70°. Splitting means "hard edge" or "smoothing group change", and absolutely requires that you split that edge on the UVs. If I absolutely want as few seams on the texture as possible, chamfering the edge can help.
A good tip for learning how to do these is to always bake an Object-Space normal along side your Tangent-Space normal. Then set up a scene like this: Highpoly(with nothing) next to Lowpoly(with Object-space-normals) next to the same Lowpoly(with Tangent-Space normals). Compare them. Do the edges render the same? Are the flat bits flat? There's gonna be a tiny bit of variance, but they should look the same.
Now go experiment. Try different methods and come out smarter in the end.
And straighten out your UVs, it'll be easier to texture, especially if you want tiling textures or decals. Apply a brick texture to your current model to see what I mean.
First of all: Make sure to view the model + normals properly.
The shading looks totally off on your screens.
Also always show a screen of your normalmap