What do you guys think ?? Should I remove the bright scratches and replace it with grungy/rust worn paint ? What could work the best ?? BTW, its not done yet, im still doing the Albedo
Its hard to see what looks weird when it is spinning on a low res gif. Can you post a still high res image of the render and explain what looks weird to you. The gloss map is probably the issue, since it has no information in it to make the material read correctly.
Im confused, is Metalness Map supposed to be inverted Rough/Gloss Map ? or is Metalness Map supposed to be black and white colours ( aka ID map ) and then Rough/Gloss determines the tightness of the reflectivity ??
I think the problem is its flat, but I dont know why
-Albedo is simply the base color with no lighting information.
-Metalness is a black and white mask that tells the material what is not a metal (black), and what is a metal (white). Where the map is white, the shader will default the albedo value to black, and then use the information in the albedo map as the reflectivity color and value.
-Gloss or roughness control how sharp or blurry the reflection is. Marmoset by default uses white at sharp reflections and black as blurry reflections, where UE4 flips those values. This map is what really defines your material and makes it look awesome.
Off to a good start with the props! A few observations that might help you:
- The wheels on your spot light look really blocky compared to the rest of your silhouette. Maybe up the sides on your cylinders, the extra polygons won't matter much and it will look a lot better
- Make the wear and tear on your textures tell a story. So far I'm seeing a lot of clean metal and wood, and then inexplicably there's a patch of rust. If it's been sitting out and rusting, think of all the surfaces that would collect water or have paint damage, and rust them too. The text stenciled onto your crates is worn and faded in places, but the underlying wood is perfectly clean. If it's a brand new crate just off the factory line, then keep it clean and perfect, including the stenciled text. If it's been sitting in a battle zone, give it the grit and the dings to make it look like it's been through a shelling.
- I think your wood crates would benefit from some subtle normal information in the wood grain. Maybe throw that baby into crazybump or ndo2 for a little more dimensionality.
- To help your roughness a bit, go to the hardware store and look at some plywood, or check out someone's old shed in the neighborhood. How does the light shine off of the darker grain versus the lighter grains? If one is more shiny, then make it darker in your UE4 gloss map - sometimes you can just take a B&W image of your albedo and with a few levels adjustment layers in PS you can get it looking pretty good.
@Dobbler thank you very very much man !! Taking your Albedo photo-textures then playing around with the values for your roughness is a really good idea.
> when making Albedo maps, are albedo maps generally unsaturated for conductors/metals ?? while full colours for the dielectrics ??
> For metalness workflow, metal gets its specular or reflective colour from the Albedo right ??
> Where do I put the dirt infos ? Do I put it in the Albedo and then put it as white in roughness ??
For you first and third question, I think you are looking for strict rules of what is suppose to belong where, and instead you should try to observe and understand. You need to use all 3 maps to define every material you are putting into your texture. Wood, Dirt, Metal all have different properties and therefore need different albedo, reflectivity, and roughness information. Just keep experimenting, do some tests with what different values look like, and try to recreate simple material swatches. This chart is super helpful.
While these values are not perfect, they are a good baseline to get you started.
Yeah, it not called the British Royale Army. They aren't 'Royal' because they are Cromwell's new model army that fought for parliament against the King and the loyalists in the civil war. We have the Royal Navy, Royal Marines and Royal Airforce, but the army aren't. I think technically parliament and the Prime Minister can mobilise the Army but the PM has to ask permission from the crown to mobilise the navy, marines and airforce.
@BARDLER wow thanks man, definitely helped. When I make something for roughness, I usually just eyepick the M from a material ref and adjust the level of my image to the reference. Its so cool, got it from a guy in youtube
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGNPUOyhSbw[/ame]
@C&C-Generations I changed it, yeah the "British Royale Army" was totally made up hope I got it right this time.
I now fully understand how PBR/S works, well not fully but everything's clear now. Thanks to you guys
Looks good, can't wait to see those lamps with some emissive!
With photo based normal information, I've found ndo is great for faking really subtle textures like a little bit of wood grain, but it gets really blobby when you try to give it a lot of dimension. I think you can get away with the pattern if it's not seen from up close, but if you have a first person view in mind, consider sculpting it in Zbrush for more control? That's a minor gripe though, if you end up painting the poles totally black it will probably look just fine.
Again, I think you could up your sides on your cylinders, your silhouette is still very blocky around the base of the lamp post. Try dropping in 12, 16, 24, etc.. sided cylinders and viewing them from where your player's camera would be. Polygons aren't nearly as taxing on your game engine as your textures and materials will be, so you can splurge a little bit to keep a nice silhouette.
@Dobbler hey thanks man, the is gonna be viewed far away. Thanks for the advice, I added more edges to the base to give a smoother sil like you said. Was just wondering, does texture maps really take more tax in the engine than the polycount ??
Thoughts, I should probably add more scratches and grunge.
Notes : I rebake and re-topologized the whole thing. Added more edges, the last update, it wasnt done properly. Now it uses different UVs, more grunges and dirt and some subtle colour variation spots.
Also I separate the planes so that it has insides and made a bulb (Opacity Map). Some of the lamps in the scene is gonna turned off or damaged. Not all of them are gonna cast light.
Should properly add some subtle normal bumps for the worn paints and stuff.
Sorry for the lack of updates, been working my ass off lately and chillin for a while.
Anyway, here's some screens from the next 5 props, will post detailed screens on each sooner tho. Worked on this for like 2 days and done. Some tweaks here and there.
Nice work so far nastobi, can't wait to see this come together! I think the rims around the barrels could be rounded opposed to having hard edges - that way you can lower your UV islands. Subtle dents in your normal map will also give it character. Also, some worn, faded and scratched paint would also look nice. Something like this http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/red-dirty-rusty-damaged-oil-drum-taken-up-front-33393763.jpg
hey yo, thanks @ElectricEchoes I built upon you and my colleagues feedbacks and did the barrels again. Here's a detailed look of it so far, still WIP (Workin on the caps now) I redid the whole thing. Here it is
Here's hoping its round enough and am very grateful for your feedback.
In my opinion the barrels look a lot better than the search light, the search light seems quite bland compared to them. Maybe you should go back and have another look at it?
Barrels are looking really good! I think you've gotten the roundness about right Subtle contrasting colors are nice with that light and it's looking proper oily. I'm not sure about the rivets though - I'm not used to seeing barrels with rivets so it struck me as a bit off, and I think the repetition of those small details start to distract from your nice texture work. Not sure what reference you're using but I haven't found any barrels that have them!
@Dobbler HOLY CRAP !! Where did you find that REFERENCES !! Definitely going in my library ! :O Anyways thanks, thats the kind of barrel I was referring to but just couldn't find a coloured and close up shot of the thing. I'll take that to consideration and maybe add more of those wobbly soft extrusions in between those rings. Thanks
I just google image searched "WW2 oil barrel" But that's the crux of reference gathering and googlefu... you have to try "WW2", "WWII", "Chemical Barrel", "Oil Barrel", "Barrel", "Container", "Hazmat", or whatever, in all sorts of permutations.
If you're modeling really old stuff, look for a collectors' market for that item, and try searching for it on ebay. If you can find your prop for sale by collectors on ebay, chances are you can also find parts for your prop on sale, which means high quality reference images for those smaller components that don't always make it into the generic google-able images.
My guess is those images don't often show up on google because they're temporary and get taken down when an item is sold, or they're really specifically labeled by serial # or something. Maybe you're looking for reference for your spotlight, but google's not grabbing the "Late 1939 Austrian Model B#12345 Chassis" when you're trying to find out why every spotlight reference you grab is ALMOST the same but the chassis is slightly different....
Just my two cents on getting good refs, but don't be afraid to grab elements you like from different objects if you're not going for 100% historical accuracy, bending the rules is always fun too!
Anyways, been a while. I end up doing 2 Separate Mats for one model. For one of the mats, Im re-using it for multiple diff props. So basically its a modular piece or kit-bash or atlas, you know what I mean. Anyway, its absolutely better than the last one, the last one was complete crap.
A video of my diorama, changed a lot for compositions sake. Its very important for me if my textures can't sell it well. Anyways, sorry for the potato quality video and I'm also submitting this to Ubisoft Toronto UbiGallery for students in Ontario.
The panels that are falling off the roof don't really make sense to me. I would have them crashed on the floor and just have the metal pipes sticking out I think. Or just more broken pieces if you really want them up there. Also, do the piles of junk on the ground have normals or anything? It's feeling very flat and photosourced at the moment. I might try to improve that a bit, it takes a lot of space in the scene and could really make a difference.
@nickcomeau Hey thanks for the feedback man, good suggestion. Im totally gonna re-do the rubble in zbrush again. The second floor is WIP right now and the rubble also needs to match the materials from the scene. Right now it looks like its not. Really, thanks. I thought its okay looking to leave it like that.
This has been a really fun and stressful experience. Learned a lot. Especially about UE4 and ZBrush. I learned I should stick to plan and the more doesnt necessarily mean its better. I think I put too much stuff on this, modeled a lot instead of focusing and making one prop good. I'm exhausted from this diorama and I think I'm gonna call this diorama quits. Also because UbiGallery deadline is up in the corner. (2 Days) Have to write CV, polish website, resume etc. I feel like I could've done better but its time to move on. 4 months working on this is killing me inside.
Things I wasnt able to do.
- Zbrush the destruction for better normals.
- Make the board-wood more realistic.
- Rooftop Entrance
- Explosion effects in the background.
- Sidewalk Pass-2 (Z-Brush)
Replies
For my first prop, I limit myself to 5000 tris, trying to make it look good but with low poly.
I am doing a 150CM WW2 SearchLight . ( Sources )
What do you guys think ?? Should I remove the bright scratches and replace it with grungy/rust worn paint ? What could work the best ?? BTW, its not done yet, im still doing the Albedo
[SKETCHFAB]08c4a97fda2245a781cae47848b4ee16#share[/SKETCHFAB]@Doxturtle thanks
Only normal and albedo so far. Thoughts ??
In TB2, this looks weird. Advice ??
Maps
I feel like there's something wrong with my texturing, idk why
Any advice guys ??
Im confused, is Metalness Map supposed to be inverted Rough/Gloss Map ? or is Metalness Map supposed to be black and white colours ( aka ID map ) and then Rough/Gloss determines the tightness of the reflectivity ??
I think the problem is its flat, but I dont know why
-Metalness is a black and white mask that tells the material what is not a metal (black), and what is a metal (white). Where the map is white, the shader will default the albedo value to black, and then use the information in the albedo map as the reflectivity color and value.
-Gloss or roughness control how sharp or blurry the reflection is. Marmoset by default uses white at sharp reflections and black as blurry reflections, where UE4 flips those values. This map is what really defines your material and makes it look awesome.
Here is what your maps should look like:
Albedo - Normal - Metalness - Roughness
More info about the scene and asset can be found here: http://kimmok.siteground.net/lfi02.html
More awesome PBR info:
http://www.marmoset.co/toolbag/learn
@easterandnick yeah I should probably change that
- The wheels on your spot light look really blocky compared to the rest of your silhouette. Maybe up the sides on your cylinders, the extra polygons won't matter much and it will look a lot better
- Make the wear and tear on your textures tell a story. So far I'm seeing a lot of clean metal and wood, and then inexplicably there's a patch of rust. If it's been sitting out and rusting, think of all the surfaces that would collect water or have paint damage, and rust them too. The text stenciled onto your crates is worn and faded in places, but the underlying wood is perfectly clean. If it's a brand new crate just off the factory line, then keep it clean and perfect, including the stenciled text. If it's been sitting in a battle zone, give it the grit and the dings to make it look like it's been through a shelling.
- I think your wood crates would benefit from some subtle normal information in the wood grain. Maybe throw that baby into crazybump or ndo2 for a little more dimensionality.
- To help your roughness a bit, go to the hardware store and look at some plywood, or check out someone's old shed in the neighborhood. How does the light shine off of the darker grain versus the lighter grains? If one is more shiny, then make it darker in your UE4 gloss map - sometimes you can just take a B&W image of your albedo and with a few levels adjustment layers in PS you can get it looking pretty good.
> when making Albedo maps, are albedo maps generally unsaturated for conductors/metals ?? while full colours for the dielectrics ??
> For metalness workflow, metal gets its specular or reflective colour from the Albedo right ??
> Where do I put the dirt infos ? Do I put it in the Albedo and then put it as white in roughness ??
Thanks
For you first and third question, I think you are looking for strict rules of what is suppose to belong where, and instead you should try to observe and understand. You need to use all 3 maps to define every material you are putting into your texture. Wood, Dirt, Metal all have different properties and therefore need different albedo, reflectivity, and roughness information. Just keep experimenting, do some tests with what different values look like, and try to recreate simple material swatches. This chart is super helpful.
While these values are not perfect, they are a good baseline to get you started.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGNPUOyhSbw[/ame]
@C&C-Generations I changed it, yeah the "British Royale Army" was totally made up hope I got it right this time.
I now fully understand how PBR/S works, well not fully but everything's clear now. Thanks to you guys
Any feedback is welcome
Used nDO2 for dem patterns.
Thoughts ??
With photo based normal information, I've found ndo is great for faking really subtle textures like a little bit of wood grain, but it gets really blobby when you try to give it a lot of dimension. I think you can get away with the pattern if it's not seen from up close, but if you have a first person view in mind, consider sculpting it in Zbrush for more control? That's a minor gripe though, if you end up painting the poles totally black it will probably look just fine.
Again, I think you could up your sides on your cylinders, your silhouette is still very blocky around the base of the lamp post. Try dropping in 12, 16, 24, etc.. sided cylinders and viewing them from where your player's camera would be. Polygons aren't nearly as taxing on your game engine as your textures and materials will be, so you can splurge a little bit to keep a nice silhouette.
Keep at it, looking forward to more updates
Thoughts, I should probably add more scratches and grunge.
Notes : I rebake and re-topologized the whole thing. Added more edges, the last update, it wasnt done properly. Now it uses different UVs, more grunges and dirt and some subtle colour variation spots.
Also I separate the planes so that it has insides and made a bulb (Opacity Map). Some of the lamps in the scene is gonna turned off or damaged. Not all of them are gonna cast light.
Should properly add some subtle normal bumps for the worn paints and stuff.
Thoughts ??
Anyway, here's some screens from the next 5 props, will post detailed screens on each sooner tho. Worked on this for like 2 days and done. Some tweaks here and there.
Enjoy !
Here's hoping its round enough and am very grateful for your feedback.
Cheers !!
If you're modeling really old stuff, look for a collectors' market for that item, and try searching for it on ebay. If you can find your prop for sale by collectors on ebay, chances are you can also find parts for your prop on sale, which means high quality reference images for those smaller components that don't always make it into the generic google-able images.
My guess is those images don't often show up on google because they're temporary and get taken down when an item is sold, or they're really specifically labeled by serial # or something. Maybe you're looking for reference for your spotlight, but google's not grabbing the "Late 1939 Austrian Model B#12345 Chassis" when you're trying to find out why every spotlight reference you grab is ALMOST the same but the chassis is slightly different....
Just my two cents on getting good refs, but don't be afraid to grab elements you like from different objects if you're not going for 100% historical accuracy, bending the rules is always fun too!
Anyways, here's my mood and lighting setup in UE4. Let me know what you guys think
More detail means more poly's. The whole thing totaled to 5.8k Poly.
Cheers
The pic is a bit low-res. lol
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D42Q5xQNkPM[/ame]
I followed jacob07777 technique
Super rushed video, had to submit it on time cause deadlines. Lighting build was preview and lots of floating geo's.
WIP Redoing my base and the sidewalk and need to make the wood a bit more realistic and positioning of the props that it makes sense.
Would be awesome if you guys can give me advice and critiques. Need other peoples eyes.
Back Destruction
Back Destruction
Back Destruction
Things I wasnt able to do.
- Zbrush the destruction for better normals.
- Make the board-wood more realistic.
- Rooftop Entrance
- Explosion effects in the background.
- Sidewalk Pass-2 (Z-Brush)
and here's a video too.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xq-35Aw9jno[/ame]
Cheers !!