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Textures, feedback and coffee.

Hi all,

One doesn't simply resist making textures after smelling what jacob07777 cooks. So using his thread as a basis to start from I began making my first watery mud PBR compatible ground texture. And I'm looking forward to hearing your comments.

Mud1.jpg

Mud2.jpg

Mud3.jpg


I'm using an Albedo and a normal map (o really?)
And Specular with 100,100,100 value for sand parts and 86,86,86 on water parts. Gloss is maxed out for water parts. (I got these values from some Ryse break down long ago) Cheers to the author.

One thing I was going to forget, I used Photoshop and CrazyBump for this.

Thanks for all the comments you are writing :)

Replies

  • AA3D
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    AA3D polycounter lvl 3
    on first glance i thought this was a dirty muddy melting ice not mud
    specially because the peaks are brighter ( not much effected by the dirty water )
    if that makes sense
  • Cibo
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    Cibo polycounter lvl 10
    Yep, dirty ice was my first through.

    The surface texture from mud is more smooth this texture looks like raw ice/snow.
  • ZenDavis
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    ZenDavis polycounter lvl 6
    At first I thought sandy beach but once you mentioned the dirty ice, I can't unsee it. That is pretty much what dirty melting ice looks like here in NYC. Very slushy and crunchy.

    6996975491_67b82a3c45_z.jpg
    img_0274.jpg
    6330339891_14c25cf880_z.jpg
  • Two Listen
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    Two Listen polycount sponsor
    Definitely looking like dirty, melting ice. ...are you sure it's not dirty melting ice? Because that REALLY looks like the sort of shit I hesitate to step through every winter.
  • DWalker
    I think the confusion - ice vs. mud - might be caused by the quality & color of the reflection. Try reducing the reflection, and give it a lighter brown base.
    rigreflect.jpg
    Adding some low magnitude ripples might help with the impression of water instead of ice.
  • Maximum-Dev
    Thank you guys for the feedback. Seems the Albedo is what you are most concerned with which I agree with you on the ice stuff.

    @DWalker, That is what's annoying me, while all the researches I made through PBR leads to constant grey-ish color for non-metals (such as mud and water), sometimes breaking the rules gives better results. Like now you are suggesting me to use colored specular. I'd appreciate it if you enlighten me.

    So here is a watery sand I made, I tried a lot to achieve the right look. But still I'm using a grey scale specular map but if I use a colored one the sand looks better. Could use some help here.

    Reference

    pic_11.jpg

    Achievement

    Sand1.jpg

    Sand2.jpg

    Specular

    29101916582015803680.jpg
  • ZenDavis
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    ZenDavis polycounter lvl 6
    You should probably finish correcting the first one before you move on to the next. Otherwise you'll always leave textures unfinished.

    Looking at this new sand piece I can see what you were going for and it looks mostly right. The thing that kind catches my eye is that if you look at the reference there is a little bit more gold / yellow in the beach than on the texture.

    The other thing is that the uniformity of the sand itself. If you look at the sand in the reference you can see that it's not one flat color. The sand is streaked with different colors. In yours however the colors are flat. It ends up looking more like wet gravel or concrete in my opinion.

    Sand Streaks in your reference: sroicUU.png

    Your Texture: Y5Bj39o.jpg
  • BagelHero
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    BagelHero interpolator
    I think you might be misunderstanding something--
    You want to use Colored Spec or Metalness. Greyscale Spec is definitely not standard for PBR. I think your understanding that the maps should have a constant grey value might come from the logic behind Metalness maps, which are black and white maps based on the idea of tagging materials as metal and non-metal, where non-metal gets assigned a general value, and the system pulls the reflectivity color from the albedo.

    I hope this helps a little.
  • sltrOlsson
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    sltrOlsson polycounter lvl 14
    BagelHero wrote: »
    I think you might be misunderstanding something--
    You want to use Colored Spec or Metalness. Greyscale Spec is definitely not standard for PBR. I think your understanding that the maps should have a constant grey value might come from the logic behind Metalness maps, which are black and white maps based on the idea of tagging materials as metal and non-metal, where non-metal gets assigned a general value, and the system pulls the reflectivity color from the albedo.

    I hope this helps a little.

    Nope.. Colored specular fresenel is almost always reserved for metallic materials. Most materials that's not metallic by nature should use a gray-scale or very very close to gray-scale spec.

    As for your texture Maximum, you should have the same spec value for both the water and the sand. The water should have a gloss value of 100% or very close to 100% and the sand something like 15%. Pretty much exactaly what you are doing here is explained by Jeff Russel from Marmoset
  • BagelHero
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    BagelHero interpolator
    Oh, huh. That's... I guess I'm misunderstanding something then, lol.
  • MohsenDehnavi
    "Agha Maximum Karat Ghashange Afarin ;)"
    english komaket mikonam ke baghie ham shayad motevajeh beshan va ghanun zire pa nare!

    I think Use sculpting is better for like these texture and materials,because sculpting and use displacemap has better show!

    reflection/glossiness of the water on the sand is very more,you should to create gloss map for your material and improve your Specular map!

    Color or Albedo map is not very important for like these works,you should create a good normal and displacemap.

    for example create a Footprint on normal and displacemap of your material to looks better.

    Conclusions:

    1-use sculpting

    2-create good normalmap and displacemap

    3-depth of details are very low!

    Good luck
  • Lavitz
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    Lavitz polycounter lvl 12
    These are looking pretty good, though the second one I'd make the edges of mud/sand smoother, right now it's giving off more of a rock vibe with it's jagged edges.
  • Jack M.
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    Jack M. interpolator
    MohsenDehnavi has some pretty good points. You definitely should be sculpting these. Your normals and displacements will come out 10x better than if it's based off of a photo.

    I think the reason your mud texture looks pretty off is because there is no real context in the texture. Without the context it does really look like melting snow.

    When I say you should add context what I mean by that is you need to add indicators of where this texture is located/what it's comprised of. Give it a story. Maybe it's fall in the woods. What would you expect to see in some mud in the woods during fall? I would expect to see some leaves, maybe some twigs, some rocks, some dead grass, and maybe some ground cover moss/lichen. It doesn't have to be any one of those things really as long as you include things to give your texture context.

    This is just an example but these different indicators that you can add will really help people know exactly what you've made, where they might find it, and it makes the texture far more interesting to look at.

    Another thing you should keep in mind is that your texture should include large, medium, and micro details. This helps maintain an interesting texture at varying distances while in game.

    I hope some of that advice was helpful, and good luck with your texturing endeavors.
  • Maximum-Dev
    Thanks a lot for all the good feedback guys. :)
  • Maximum-Dev
    Hi all,
    Been away from Polycount for a while. (Well I wasn't here that much either).
    Brought some works, and I'm open to hear anything regarding improvement over my texturing.

    Moss

    Untitled-1.jpg

    Rocks

    Prep3.jpg

    Prep.jpg

    Thanks you all for the good comments.
  • j.pears
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    j.pears polycounter lvl 4
    wow man, im seriously impressed
  • 3dReaper
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    3dReaper polycounter lvl 4
    That moss looks incredible! Good job
  • Maximum-Dev
    Thank you for the kind words! :D
    More work I did today:

    Prep1.jpg

    Prep2.jpg

    Prep37d858.jpg

    Prep4.jpg

    Open for any criticism. :)
  • mettigel
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    mettigel polycounter lvl 6
  • mad-
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    mad- polycounter lvl 4
    I like your textures. Can you tell us more about your workflow?

    Thank you ;)
  • Maximum-Dev
    @mettigel, Not black magic :)

    @mad-, Thanks. It really isn't something tricky. Just a PBR workflow. You can read up here if you want:
    http://www.crydev.net/viewtopic.php?f=291&p=1244141#p1244141

    I was cooking

    Prep4dc8a.jpg

    Prepaa077.jpg


    Feel free to drop a destructive feedback and make me improve :D


    Regards,
    Ali.
  • Mr Significant
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    Mr Significant polycounter lvl 11
    Try with wood, rocks are easy.
  • Oniram
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    Oniram polycounter lvl 17
    holy cow these look nice. all done with bitmap2material? thats pretty impressive. gonna have to check that out.
  • AlexCatMasterSupreme
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    AlexCatMasterSupreme interpolator
    It reads good to me and not like ice?
    Idk what these people are thinking it looks great.
  • Maximum-Dev
    @Oniram, Thank you. Well not certainly all the material is done with B2M3 even though you see the logo on the image. I use CrazyBump and Knald in combination too. I used to make my normal maps in a one go, for emaple in CrazyBump if I wanted fine detail I would push the fine detail slider forward, and then if I wanted some large details I would do the same with the sliders and save the normal map. But now I see there is a difference. Now I'm working with layers. One normal map only for fine details, one for medium and one for large details. In PS then I combine them. The result comes out much better.

    There is also an Auto-Tiling feature in B2M3, but if you want to achieve a high end result, you would not use it. I still tile my textures by hand. It's overall good software, speeds up the work.

    @AlexCatMasterSupreme, Thanks my friend. ;)

    @Mr Significant, You actually made me curious to see how wood would like using this workflow.

    Prep.jpg

    Prep2cd550.jpg
  • yodude87
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    yodude87 polycounter lvl 5
    hey ali, awesome stuff man, really impressed!
  • Mr Significant
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    Mr Significant polycounter lvl 11
    Fuck, you nailed it. Congratulations. But Im curious, are you baking normals from Diffuse? You really good at it, but Im curious the workflow. Its just you tranfering it into Marmoset, or is it more work in PS than I suspect?

    Seems like you enjoy it, make some props. You gain interest from people, they will help you. You already have cool stuff in portfolio, what about making it more awesome?

    Nicely done, make something with very worn, and variated wood. Good job, lad.
  • Grusti
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    Grusti polycounter lvl 11
    Your workflow simply and effective! thx for sharing
    I have couple questions: what are texture resolution you using and how you using knald?

    I made some changes in workflow when creating a spec and gloss maps.
    When I set median value I go with around +20 point from pbr chart and then using lightness slider for final adjustments. I think textures after that looks less contrast.

    Le3iPlj.png
    Normal and Height maps are made in Ndo (not very good choise how I even try to make it)
    and texture is 2k ... I don't know why I chose 2k)

    edit: Normal map are not created using layers technique (for speed)
  • Maximum-Dev
    @yodude87, Long time no see! Thanks man! Good to see you here :)

    @Mr Significant, Yeah all work generated from diffuse. Thanks.

    @IlyaIvanovArt, I use Knald for the very fine details. It does better job than CrazyBump and B2m3. And yes my textures are 2k. Why would you go with higher values than charts?
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