bro you need to learn the basics before doing all this, make these textures from scratch, learn about modular textures. You're making something big way too soon.
I am deeply concerned with your critique. It is obvious that I am a beginner in 3D production. Could you please expound upon your advice of "learning the basics"? I do have a plan to re-do my textures, as they have all been haphazardly placed. I tried my best to make the building according to the concept and I am aware of a lot of issues regarding the consistency between the two assets. I am dying to know what "the basics" are. I do plan on redoing my textures (which will take a while), and thanks for mentioning to make my textures modular; as for the most part they're. I love bad news, it helps me to ask better questions in the future. In regards to your comment about "making something big way to soon", well, I don't have a clue as to what you're talking about; could you please elaborate? Not only for me, but for my readers so they can learn too?
Thank you AlexCatMasterSupreme; I'm hoping to learn from everyone. I would've felt unfulfilled had you let me off easy. Finding quality critique-rs is hard to come by. Your critique left me speechless other than the initial reaction,
As I always do, I bow my head and say, with deep respect,
He's basically saying: start out simple. The asset you chose to build, a house, is composed of several intricate pieces all with varying materials. Instead of trying to build an entire house, try starting with a door, a window, a simple asset that will give you a chance to really push the envelope (especially in terms of textures).
I personally agree with Alex, you are stretching yourself pretty thin on this project. You are clearly improving but its probably more beneficial, time-wise, to work on a simpler asset. Right now your overall product is mediocre--I think if you had focused on a smaller asset and really refined it, you would have a pretty nice finished product to show off. That being said, if you enjoy learning that way--I see no problem with it at all, you just might not learn as fast. I personally have my own bad learning habits so I can't point fingers.
Your textures are your weakest point right now. If I were you, I would take a quick break from modeling and just focus on texturing until you get a good hang on it. Try to make clean, convincing textures, don't worry about tailoring them to an asset until you actually have the concept down.
I am confused about the high poly to low poly modeling? Or the low poly to high poly modelling? I was wondering anybody knew which is best? I'm seeking to learn how mud box works via the internet. Unfortunately, I cannot afford the top quality tutorials out there. Maybe I'll go to digital tutors.com? Also, I cannot afford Zbrush-even on a student discount. Essentially, I am saying I don't know the production flow of getting a high poly normal map onto a low poly asset or is it the reverse where you make a high poly mesh (for me, in mudbox) and shrink down a version so that it fits into a low poly object that has come from the high poly object?
"Your textures are your weakest point right now. If I were you, I would take a quick break from modeling and just focus on texturing until you get a good hang on it. Try to make clean, convincing textures, don't worry about tailoring them to an asset until you actually have the concept down."
I agree to take a break from modelling since texturing is my weakpoint. In giving your generous advice, I do not understand what you mean by "tailoring them to an asset until you actually have the concept down"? What does it mean to have the concept down before texturing? I am very confused.
I would be sincerely in your debt for any knowledge on the misunderstanding,
I know I already talked to you in PM but I thought I'd also say, I started 3d with digital tutors and it's great for learning tools and such, maybe not the best for game art. I would start with the intro courses and then work into more complicated ones, 3d motive has more game art tutorials which i would do many of. When I was starting out I would do a month or two of tutorials and a month or so of applying what I've learned and always doing something small. Just do things that you know you can do well instead of big things that intimidate you or you don't know how to approach. Make sure you understand the scope of the projects before you start as well. Not saying you have to do exactly what I did but simply letting you know how I learned.
So I think I can make this concept happen, but for me it might take longer than the previous building. I have autism, so I learn and work at a slower pace. I hope this doesn't hurt me in the future. Also, I am taking grad courses at the academy of art university in San Fransisco, even though I live in Florida. I am planning on making each part of the concept normal mapped with some sort of high to low poly/transfer maps happen. How long would it take a professional to do a piece like this? Anybody know? I'd appreciate it.
if you want to try something else why dont you do what Clusterone was suggesting and start out with something smaller than an entire scene or building eg a door or a window or a sofa etc? its much less time consuming and teaches you valuable skills and when its done you have something that you can be proud of and that may give you confidence to try something larger or more complicated.
You're absolutely right. At first sight, the concept looks simple, but after I broke it down into pieces...it sort of scared the s*** out of me. As of now, I am officially looking for smaller projects that are less scary and are not as time consuming or scary and intimidating.
Kind of Rusty. I may or may not bring this into 3d because it doesn't look to good. I haven't done one of these in years, literally. Haven't had the time when you're doing 3D down to the wire.
How about you pick something that has a bit more substance than that? The concepts you choose are basically ...nothing really. Either this age old drawn house or this...whatever it is. Don't want to be rude but choose something in which you can determine shapes, flows and see whats going on. Then go down the steps necessary.
1. Block Out
2. High poly
3. Detail
4. Low Poly
5. UV
6. Bake & Texture
7 Drop into Engine
But most important: Do yourself a favor and choose something with more form. Sure this broken church might have been the other extrem but maybe start with an object rather than a full blown scene?
You're right. I am becoming a prop artist. That's where I am starting now. Here is a simple pillar I got from some moonscape. I don't know who the artist is, but I was drawn to the simplicity of the concept. I am working on it now. I do not know mudbox and I cannot afford Zbrush just yet; I am still a student and am very poor. Anyway, this is sort of a progress report. Do I take it into mudbox now or keep adding dents, weathering, bumps, embroderies, etc. ?
This error keeps coming up and I don't know what it means in terms of fixing it in Maya 2011. I am using mudbox and I am an ametuer. Any help is greatly appreciated and respected. Thank you.
I know that error message from mudbox - everything that follows here is my theory of whats happening so take it with a grain of salt - it seems that mudbox welds vertices within a small radius to avoid duplicates and sometimes it fucks up on that leading to this error
I usually get that error when importing meshes that are not modeled watertight, for me splitting them into sepperate meshes and importing them one by one usually fixes this error - since your mesh looks watertight an alternate way you could try to fix this would be upscaling your mesh in maya to 1000% and then sending it over.
EDIT : what may work aswell is subdividing the mesh inside of maya once before taking it over into mudbox this saved my ass from this error a few times aswell
It can't bake maps unless it knows what its trying to bake information from and to. Make sure your source mesh is set to your high poly and your destination mesh is set to your low poly.
Up until now I have never fully understood how long it takes to make one simple asset. All the glitches, requirements, UV mapping, and editing. Also, texturing takes quite a long time. I've been working on this block for days now and it's not finished.
Anybody have any insight into fixing these glitches? I keep running into problems. The UV's are as clean as I can get them. I went into far detail with the geometry and UV mapping and yet I get all these errors. What is going on here? If anybody gives advice, I'd be highly greatful and would include deep respect.
I was wondering if anybody knows how to stop the rounded edges from happening when I sub-divide the mesh? It would be great if somebody knew how to resolve this conflict.
So, I took a few steps backwards to learn mudbox and it is actually a simple and effective method for normal map creations. I'm actually going to take the Fable 2 concept into pieces and will continue working on the weakpoints from a few steps back so I dont have to do alot of editing.
Got a problem. I'm hoping there is a mudbox pro out there gracious enough to impart some knowledge and tactical information or advice on getting out of this huge hole I've dug for myself. I can't seem to extract a normal map from mudbox. As you can, hopefully, see, I want the black creases to be predominant in the normal map. Plus, I don't know how to use the existing texture to make a normal map out of the inherently looking creases in the texture file that's attached to the cellar doors. The whole thing is supposed to be a cellar. Also, I'm not sure if overlapping UV's is ok in the prop production pipeline. I'm hoping to get a prop artist job to start out in the industry. I'd be truly grateful for any expert help or opinions on the direction of my work.
The Sincerely Grateful,
Cory Kanakis
PS- I can't afford good quality mudbox tutorials online. That information should be free. My message is a basic message for someone's help.
Well, you will need to sculpt the creases in, but it's hard to tell because of the textures you have applied to the mesh.
"Plus, I don't know how to use the existing texture to make a normal map out of the inherently looking creases in the texture file that's attached to the cellar doors."
This part is a bit confusing. Normal maps are used to transfer sculpt information from high poly meshes to very low poly meshes. At no point does the diffuse/color/albedo texture come into the equation. Have you done any sculpting to the mesh yet?
I brought the texture in and stenciled over it. My computer sucks, ramping up the sub=d's sometimes crashes my computer, but hey, that happens all the time anyway. Thank you good sir for confirming that I need to add the creases in by hand; that is going to take some time. I just thought I could bring in the texture and have mudbox somehow sculpt in the darker areas on the texture map. My goal is to get all the texture depth out of the texture without having to hand sculpt in the minutia creaves. I don't know if that's possible because I am new to mudbox. Hope things are cleared up a bit. Thanks for your help. If anybody else has something to say, then please share; I'd be grateful.
Hey man I would go and do some more tutorials before doing this. One i would do a tutorial on the full asset creation pipeline, and then i'd do one on how to make stuff with tiling textures. This scene if very stylized and I think you'd want to sculpt all these textures rather than photosource them.
You mentioned that you want to do Blizzard's style artwork. Doing pure hand painted work would actually be a lot less technical (no sculpting) and I feel like it would be beneficial to learn that first. That stuff pretty much requires a tablet though, do you have one?
to sculpt a straight line in mudbox simply create a new curve object along your line and snap your brush to it
in mudbox 2015 you can also right click a created curve and let mudbox stroke along the curve using your current tool , pretty much like the stroke path function in Photoshop you will need a few subdivisons to do that though
EDIT : I just took a look on your screenshots and it seems that mudbox 2011 is missing the curves you could try using the steady stroke function for your brushes to create straight lines
Otherwise I'd suggest adding a bump/height channel to your material and paint in black for recessed and white for elevated ares - you can then covnert this bump map into a normal map and merge it with your finished normal map
I can't thank you all enough for your advice. Is it me, or is texturing the hardest part of the process? Anyway, I appreciate all help and look forward towards working with you good fellows in further issues.
I was wondering if anybody knew how to create edge loops across the major model face as well as how to fix the distortion in the doorway? Should I add more edges? Could somebody please help? I'd greatly appreciate it.
Just wondering if anybody knows how to extrude an edge in 3d max; I'm having a hella-of-a-time trying to model the same way I do in maya. I like Maya better for everything, but 3d max is industry standard, I have to learn it sooner or later.
I don't know, Max for modelling or Maya? I"ve been using Maya for 10 years now and have come close to it. Picking up 3d max is a bitch, but you gatta learn it and do it.
Replies
I am deeply concerned with your critique. It is obvious that I am a beginner in 3D production. Could you please expound upon your advice of "learning the basics"? I do have a plan to re-do my textures, as they have all been haphazardly placed. I tried my best to make the building according to the concept and I am aware of a lot of issues regarding the consistency between the two assets. I am dying to know what "the basics" are. I do plan on redoing my textures (which will take a while), and thanks for mentioning to make my textures modular; as for the most part they're. I love bad news, it helps me to ask better questions in the future. In regards to your comment about "making something big way to soon", well, I don't have a clue as to what you're talking about; could you please elaborate? Not only for me, but for my readers so they can learn too?
Thank you AlexCatMasterSupreme; I'm hoping to learn from everyone. I would've felt unfulfilled had you let me off easy. Finding quality critique-rs is hard to come by. Your critique left me speechless other than the initial reaction,
As I always do, I bow my head and say, with deep respect,
Thank you for your time, knowledge, and advice.
He's basically saying: start out simple. The asset you chose to build, a house, is composed of several intricate pieces all with varying materials. Instead of trying to build an entire house, try starting with a door, a window, a simple asset that will give you a chance to really push the envelope (especially in terms of textures).
I personally agree with Alex, you are stretching yourself pretty thin on this project. You are clearly improving but its probably more beneficial, time-wise, to work on a simpler asset. Right now your overall product is mediocre--I think if you had focused on a smaller asset and really refined it, you would have a pretty nice finished product to show off. That being said, if you enjoy learning that way--I see no problem with it at all, you just might not learn as fast. I personally have my own bad learning habits so I can't point fingers.
Your textures are your weakest point right now. If I were you, I would take a quick break from modeling and just focus on texturing until you get a good hang on it. Try to make clean, convincing textures, don't worry about tailoring them to an asset until you actually have the concept down.
I am confused about the high poly to low poly modeling? Or the low poly to high poly modelling? I was wondering anybody knew which is best? I'm seeking to learn how mud box works via the internet. Unfortunately, I cannot afford the top quality tutorials out there. Maybe I'll go to digital tutors.com? Also, I cannot afford Zbrush-even on a student discount. Essentially, I am saying I don't know the production flow of getting a high poly normal map onto a low poly asset or is it the reverse where you make a high poly mesh (for me, in mudbox) and shrink down a version so that it fits into a low poly object that has come from the high poly object?
Any help comes with a sincere thank you,
Cory Kanakis
I agree to take a break from modelling since texturing is my weakpoint. In giving your generous advice, I do not understand what you mean by "tailoring them to an asset until you actually have the concept down"? What does it mean to have the concept down before texturing? I am very confused.
I would be sincerely in your debt for any knowledge on the misunderstanding,
Sincerely,
Cory Kanakis
So I think I can make this concept happen, but for me it might take longer than the previous building. I have autism, so I learn and work at a slower pace. I hope this doesn't hurt me in the future. Also, I am taking grad courses at the academy of art university in San Fransisco, even though I live in Florida. I am planning on making each part of the concept normal mapped with some sort of high to low poly/transfer maps happen. How long would it take a professional to do a piece like this? Anybody know? I'd appreciate it.
Here's looking forward towards a good production,
Cory Kanakis
You're absolutely right. At first sight, the concept looks simple, but after I broke it down into pieces...it sort of scared the s*** out of me. As of now, I am officially looking for smaller projects that are less scary and are not as time consuming or scary and intimidating.
1. Block Out
2. High poly
3. Detail
4. Low Poly
5. UV
6. Bake & Texture
7 Drop into Engine
But most important: Do yourself a favor and choose something with more form. Sure this broken church might have been the other extrem but maybe start with an object rather than a full blown scene?
You're right. I am becoming a prop artist. That's where I am starting now. Here is a simple pillar I got from some moonscape. I don't know who the artist is, but I was drawn to the simplicity of the concept. I am working on it now. I do not know mudbox and I cannot afford Zbrush just yet; I am still a student and am very poor. Anyway, this is sort of a progress report. Do I take it into mudbox now or keep adding dents, weathering, bumps, embroderies, etc. ?
Preciate it. Greatly.
This error keeps coming up and I don't know what it means in terms of fixing it in Maya 2011. I am using mudbox and I am an ametuer. Any help is greatly appreciated and respected. Thank you.
I usually get that error when importing meshes that are not modeled watertight, for me splitting them into sepperate meshes and importing them one by one usually fixes this error - since your mesh looks watertight an alternate way you could try to fix this would be upscaling your mesh in maya to 1000% and then sending it over.
EDIT : what may work aswell is subdividing the mesh inside of maya once before taking it over into mudbox this saved my ass from this error a few times aswell
Sincerely,
Cory Kanakis
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Sincerely,
Cory Kanakis
With sincere regard
Cory Kanakis
I was wondering if anybody knows how to stop the rounded edges from happening when I sub-divide the mesh? It would be great if somebody knew how to resolve this conflict.
Hope everyone is having a good day,
Sincerely,
Cory Kanakis
Signed,
BOston George
The Sincerely Grateful,
Cory Kanakis
PS- I can't afford good quality mudbox tutorials online. That information should be free. My message is a basic message for someone's help.
"Plus, I don't know how to use the existing texture to make a normal map out of the inherently looking creases in the texture file that's attached to the cellar doors."
This part is a bit confusing. Normal maps are used to transfer sculpt information from high poly meshes to very low poly meshes. At no point does the diffuse/color/albedo texture come into the equation. Have you done any sculpting to the mesh yet?
Sincerely,
Cory Kanakis
in mudbox 2015 you can also right click a created curve and let mudbox stroke along the curve using your current tool , pretty much like the stroke path function in Photoshop you will need a few subdivisons to do that though
EDIT : I just took a look on your screenshots and it seems that mudbox 2011 is missing the curves
Otherwise I'd suggest adding a bump/height channel to your material and paint in black for recessed and white for elevated ares - you can then covnert this bump map into a normal map and merge it with your finished normal map
I can't thank you all enough for your advice. Is it me, or is texturing the hardest part of the process? Anyway, I appreciate all help and look forward towards working with you good fellows in further issues.
Sincere Regards,
Cory Kanakis
3dmotive have a pretty good series on 3ds Max and they go through some basic asset creation too.
http://3dmotive.com/series/complete-intro-to-3ds-max.html