Hello, I'm a 15 year old looking to have better skills. I'm also new to polycount. So I guess this is where I will start. Feedback on my flaws would be great.
Damn I seriously got to cut my slack, I seriously wish I started 3D earlier, 17 with nothing to show for my 1 1/2 years of modelling. seriously keep it up.
Neat stuff Can we see more of this gun? Perhaps we could give better feedback seeing it from the sides or the back. Could we take a look at the textures as well?
Neat stuff Can we see more of this gun? Perhaps we could give better feedback seeing it from the sides or the back. Could we take a look at the textures as well?
Damn I seriously got to cut my slack, I seriously wish I started 3D earlier, 17 with nothing to show for my 1 1/2 years of modelling. seriously keep it up.
While modern engines can handle a 9k weapon, you should still work to optimize things. I'd estimate that you could probably cut it down to 6k without losing any quality. The sight has several obvious major optimizations - you have close to 100 polygons on each side of the transparent part, most of which aren't contributing anything to the silhouette. The main sides of the sight are broken into 3 vertical segments, when they really only need a single vertical segment in each section other than the bottom one. The various cylindrical pieces - barrels, knobs, etc. - each have the same number of sides (32?) regardless of their size, importance, or (most importantly) distance from the camera.
Keep in mind that when you are creating a weapon for a game, not all parts will have the same importance. The scope will be the closest thing to the player when he's aiming, so it should have the highest level of detail. Unless it's being aimed directly at the player, the muzzle will be quite far from the player, so it can have a lower level of detail. The grips, magazine, and other mid-weapon details will almost never be close to the camera, and will often be covered by the character's hands, so they should have the lowest level of detail.
As a simple test, make a copy of your weapon and run it through your tool's (3ds Max or Maya) automated optimizer with a setting of ~50%, then import both into a game engine.
While modern engines can handle a 9k weapon, you should still work to optimize things. I'd estimate that you could probably cut it down to 6k without losing any quality. The sight has several obvious major optimizations - you have close to 100 polygons on each side of the transparent part, most of which aren't contributing anything to the silhouette. The main sides of the sight are broken into 3 vertical segments, when they really only need a single vertical segment in each section other than the bottom one. The various cylindrical pieces - barrels, knobs, etc. - each have the same number of sides (32?) regardless of their size, importance, or (most importantly) distance from the camera.
Keep in mind that when you are creating a weapon for a game, not all parts will have the same importance. The scope will be the closest thing to the player when he's aiming, so it should have the highest level of detail. Unless it's being aimed directly at the player, the muzzle will be quite far from the player, so it can have a lower level of detail. The grips, magazine, and other mid-weapon details will almost never be close to the camera, and will often be covered by the character's hands, so they should have the lowest level of detail.
As a simple test, make a copy of your weapon and run it through your tool's (3ds Max or Maya) automated optimizer with a setting of ~50%, then import both into a game engine.
The biggest crit i have is the scratches on the gun. most noticably on the upper receiver but they seem to be pretty much everywhere on edges. Its quite apparent that youve done only one or two passes with a single brush, which makes the scratches look even and "made up".
If you dont put enough time in it itll just look like someone went to work on it with a key instead of being the result of years of use.
also keep in mind that reflective metal (such as scratched) has a diffuse color (albedo) thats very dark. I usually go with a slightly darker and desaturated version of the non-scratched surface.
Yeah, what looks more obvious to me are the scratches.
The way I handle them is - I make two layers in photoshop, one of them being the paint and other the underlying metal, and mask off the paint in spots using a layer mask.
I usually go for a square brush with a bit of scattering in photoshop, so it makes it look like the paint is flaking off. If you check my ak47 in my portfolio (link in sig) you'll see how I handle it.
Actual scratches as if the gun scraped into concrete or something would be better with some photo overlays.
Replies
Thank you
Seeing what the people who start really early produce is always interesting.
Wow lol .. seemed rough. I just got over my fear of girls.
Poly count: 9k(everything) .. The holographic sight itself was high poly so without it, everything would be 5k
Map sizes: 2048x2048
I will post more views tomorrow, stay updated.
Thx man
Best to include that onto the screenshots on your website
Keep in mind that when you are creating a weapon for a game, not all parts will have the same importance. The scope will be the closest thing to the player when he's aiming, so it should have the highest level of detail. Unless it's being aimed directly at the player, the muzzle will be quite far from the player, so it can have a lower level of detail. The grips, magazine, and other mid-weapon details will almost never be close to the camera, and will often be covered by the character's hands, so they should have the lowest level of detail.
As a simple test, make a copy of your weapon and run it through your tool's (3ds Max or Maya) automated optimizer with a setting of ~50%, then import both into a game engine.
OK, I will do that then post more screenshots
If you dont put enough time in it itll just look like someone went to work on it with a key instead of being the result of years of use.
also keep in mind that reflective metal (such as scratched) has a diffuse color (albedo) thats very dark. I usually go with a slightly darker and desaturated version of the non-scratched surface.
The way I handle them is - I make two layers in photoshop, one of them being the paint and other the underlying metal, and mask off the paint in spots using a layer mask.
I usually go for a square brush with a bit of scattering in photoshop, so it makes it look like the paint is flaking off. If you check my ak47 in my portfolio (link in sig) you'll see how I handle it.
Actual scratches as if the gun scraped into concrete or something would be better with some photo overlays.
If you do this trick - http://tolas.wordpress.com/2009/05/26/tutorial-how-to-equalize-textures-in-photoshop/ - with some scratched metal photos from cg textures you'll end up with some good overlays.
Hope it helps!