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[WIP]*Oh boy*_ WWW_character

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superdroso polycounter lvl 6
Hi guys,

Before let me introduce myself,  I'm a full time graphic designer in a packaging agency (box) and a selftaugh 2D_3D concept artist.
I'm here to learn, and would like to say that i really appeciate the forum/website which a pure gold mine for a loner 3D enhusiast like me! (my last post is about 2 years ago for XMD challenge). Time is running...

So please find below my last attempt of realtime 3D "realistic" character (from A to Z:  sketch/scultpt/retopo/UV/texturing/Rigging and skinning). My inspiration for this character comes from HUNT and BF:WW1 (press shot:>) . It took around 9-10 days to complete.
You'll find below some captures, from the moodboard to sculpt and the breakdown of the 3d character (rendering directly from MToolbag viewport)
>Tri count is around 83K with accessories, and ± 70K without the guns (multimesh) with a 4K maps (+ 1x 2k for the ground) 
Any comments/criticism are more than welcome ! [There is still a lot of work to do > hand retopo and hip finger/skinning]

Thanks for your time :smile:

Moodboard with reference and sketchs

zbrush sculpt with clothes
Marvelous D with apparels

marmoset breakdown : wireframe/ablde/NM/gloss

Model with texture  TPOSE

Marmoset viewer render
HUNT "LuT"
RDR "LuT"
BF "Lut"


BW

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  • superdroso
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    superdroso polycounter lvl 6
    Some new screenshots 
    Turnarount




    Keylight changes
  • Brian "Panda" Choi
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    Brian "Panda" Choi high dynamic range
    Can we get close ups of the face?  
  • Biomag
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    Biomag sublime tool
    You are not doing yourself many favors by using a T-pose in Marvelous Designer. Stick to 45° it gives you much more natural folds on the shoulders and doesn't stretch the clothing on the sides upwards. You see how wide your black coat has become looking out of place. Another thing it makes it easier to check if the arms have the right length. Right now they look too short in your final pose. The stretched out arm should have the fingers ending underneath the crotch. I actually have the feeling that your torso is too long. 

    Also add a small bend at the elbow to get folds on its inside. This has 2 benefits - natural folds that make it more interesting and easier for the rigger to find the elbow.

    That bracer on the left leg should be affecting the folds (and not intersecting the geo ;) ). Right now it looks too wide and floating.

    The holster on the chest should be reversed. The way it is right now, he could not take the weapon out ;)

    The bag should be affecting the black coat and its belt should not be wobbly. Gravity is pulling it down unless there is something hard enough to build up resistance - so in your case it should be quite straight and the bags weight should affect the clothing underneath.

    I agree with Brian, a close up of the sculpted and textured face would be good :)

    Use reference for the pose. From the side there are a lot of issues with the legs and the arm and their bends.


    Overall a nice work, but I think if you keep these things in mind you will make a nice progress on the next project :)


  • superdroso
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    superdroso polycounter lvl 6
    Can we get close ups of the face?  Hi Brian, i will try to post some close up tonight.

    Biomag said:
    You are not doing yourself many favors by using a T-pose in Marvelous Designer. Stick to 45° it gives you much more natural folds on the shoulders and doesn't stretch the clothing on the sides upwards. You see how wide your black coat has become looking out of place. Another thing it makes it easier to check if the arms have the right length. Right now they look too short in your final pose. The stretched out arm should have the fingers ending underneath the crotch. I actually have the feeling that your torso is too long. 

    Also add a small bend at the elbow to get folds on its inside. This has 2 benefits - natural folds that make it more interesting and easier for the rigger to find the elbow.

    That bracer on the left leg should be affecting the folds (and not intersecting the geo ;) ). Right now it looks too wide and floating.

    The holster on the chest should be reversed. The way it is right now, he could not take the weapon out ;)

    The bag should be affecting the black coat and its belt should not be wobbly. Gravity is pulling it down unless there is something hard enough to build up resistance - so in your case it should be quite straight and the bags weight should affect the clothing underneath.

    I agree with Brian, a close up of the sculpted and textured face would be good :)

    Use reference for the pose. From the side there are a lot of issues with the legs and the arm and their bends.


    Overall a nice work, but I think if you keep these things in mind you will make a nice progress on the next project :)

    Hi Biomag, thanks for all your comments and kind word :)
    Like you said, the hip, arm, left leg and hand are shitty. You're totally right for the T-pose ! I became aware of this too late (during rigging to be exact). I really have a lot of difficulties with the skinning :(  
    I'm looking for good tutorials about rigging and skinning (big newbie inside) i entangle/mat with cloth/body/accessories... CGMA may be a solution (or another tutoring website solution like udemy, artstation, pluralsight... ).
    Maybe for the next time, i will use Zbrush for posing ? To be honest i would like to undestand how does it work.
    About the holster, i do not understand , do you mean like this ? Thx.



  • Biomag
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    Biomag sublime tool
    If you are a beginner I wouldn't be too worried about rigging and skinning. Skinning is something you can practice while doing personal projects. Rigging will be mostly done by riggers except in small studios. Its good to know, but I would focus on the character creation itself for the moment, except if you have money and time to spare then I would expect CGMA to be a good option :)

    For skinning the only real advice I can give  is to skin your base mesh and use it to transfer skin weights. Being a more simple shape its usually easier to skin it than the clothing. After you transferred the skin weights you might still have to adjust some stuff, but it should be far less and faster done :)

    When it comes to posing ZBrush can be an option. I personally prefer doing simple poses to avoid getting stretched parts. This can be achieved with ZBrush, but in my personal opinion a simple rig + skinning has the advantage that testing different poses and polishing becomes easier than what you can do in ZBrush. It really depends on the character and how certain I am about the pose and where I can get there faster.

    Regarding the holster - yep that's it :) Or you can spin it in a different direction so that he can reach it with the left hand. 

    For the next time I would suggest you post your base mesh and try to get an opinion on that to avoid some anatomy issues that become much more work to fix once you get the clothing on :)
  • Alex_J
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    Alex_J grand marshal polycounter
    You definitely don't want to learn rigging/skin weighting with this guy. It will be a tremendous nightmare to keep all the layers from clipping. To get a general understanding enough to make simple rigs for posing or retargeting, pluralsight has several courses and you could complete them all in a month or two -- so about $60.

    I agree with the others, especially regarding the length of the torso, but I don't think this was mentioned so let me add that the material of the large vest is a bit vague... I think it's meant to be leather but it seems too glossy for that. 

    No doubt this guy was a big challenge (so many layers!), and overall nicely executed.
  • superdroso
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    superdroso polycounter lvl 6
    Please find bellow some head close up

    The mouth seems a litlle weirdo (convex), because of the field of view.
    About the face, the injury/wound is a burn with a scar.  For hair, i 've used,hair card with painted hairbrush (via a custom Illustrator brush). 

    @ BIGTIMEMASTER
    pluralsight has several courses and you could complete them all in a month or two -- so about $60.
    > i take note othat.

    the material of the large vest is a bit vague... I think it's meant to be leather but it seems too glossy for that
    > For the leather jacket,  i've in mind a leather nubuck. Which is revelant wihin the collar ( glossy and peachy skin aspect).

    I agree with the others, especially regarding the length of the torso, 
    > I agree with you. 
    Based on your comments, the 2x belts are too low (i should stop around the shell/cartridge belt). About torso and the pelvis, may be i'm wrong. buti would say that the distance between sacrum and pubis is too high. 

    A question about PBR environment, which option do you use for micro surface (gloss/roughness/micro roughness)??

    Thanks again for your critical eyes :):smile:


  • Brian "Panda" Choi
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    Brian "Panda" Choi high dynamic range
    That beard is spotty and bad.  You need better hair textures and coverage.  Hair cards are also very obviously plane strips: need more variety and break up.

    It also looks like you did not define for cheek bones at all.

    Wings of the nose don't curve back in properly from the looks of it.

    He has no chin.  The forms aren't there.
  • Biomag
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    Biomag sublime tool
    For the shader in Marmorset I typically go with the Unreal 4 one as I also export the Unreal 4 packed preset from Substance painter (keeps reduces the number of files and just makes sense). For skin I stick to the Marmorset skin shader.

    Could you do me a favor and check the scale in Marmorset? Use the 'show scale reference' box when you select the scene in the outliner. Maybe its just me but the lighting looks a bit of and it could be related to the scale. Its either that or it the light could be just a bit too strong and should be reduced and compensated with some additional point light or something to get it bright enough without getting these hard shadows that make it hard to read the shapes.

    Last thing - could you go to ZBrush, get to draw and get the angle of view somewhere between 25 and 30 and make a 3/4, side and front view of the face? Maybe we can give you then some pointers :)
  • superdroso
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    superdroso polycounter lvl 6
    Brian "Panda" Choi
    The beard need to be refine. i'm thinking to add a third layer on the top, in order to break the tile effect. Thanks for your anatomy feedbacks.
    @Biomag
    Bellow the sculpt. For the story i did a lot of sculpt within the height map of Painter. Same way for "pore" map (with substance source and a mix of  Rafa souza brush/alpha).


  • Brian "Panda" Choi
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    Brian "Panda" Choi high dynamic range
    Sculpt under chin is literally just these awkward dimple puncture marks  It doesn't follow the actual form of the bottom lip to chin.

    The planar change from masseter muscle to the orbicularis around the mouth is wrong. Double check how jowls form.

    Zygomatic arch needs to be defined from not just the corner of the eye, but to the ear as well.

    Nasiolabial fold needs more definition.

    You need to do some anatomy studies, breaking down the planes of the face among other breakdowns.
  • Biomag
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    Biomag sublime tool
    First there is a lot I like about the face. I think the sculpt is far better than the textured version as lighting and hair cards cover some of the good work. I also wouldn't open the mouth if you have not done the inside including teeth properly (which most of the times won't pay off ;) ).


    I hope you can read my horrible handwritting - if something is unclear, let me know :)


    So just a couple of basic points for the future:
    1. Eyes - check out Peter Zoppis Gumroad eye tutorial. It is excellent for $5,- and has all the basics. Make sure the distance from pupil to pupil is ~6,5cm for men and ~6cm  for women. If you start with the correct eyes, you get a correct reference point for everything else. Make also sure you have proper thickness for the eyelids.
    2. For the forehead and jaw line follow more the skull shape. For the forehead you can also slightly exagerate the shape to get that curve up there as most of the times it gives a more refined look. Also make sure you have the zygomatic arch in there as it is the widest point of the face and the whole eye structure lies on top.
    4. Pay attention to the planar face and when using references and look for those planes.
    5. Take a look at the nasolabial fold and follow it down to the jaw as well as the masseter.

    Overall I think just a bit more refined primary and secondary forms will do a lot for your work. I really like the feel of the eyes, nose and lip planes in the sculpt, although there are some issues with the areas I mentioned previously. If you get those right in your next project, I think you will have a really nice result :)
  • superdroso
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    superdroso polycounter lvl 6
    Ok thank you for your nice feedbacks and annotations. i've got the point. I've to increase/dig the shape-> work work work on anatomy.
    In order to push my anatomy skills (wich are "old"), i'm going to buy this book to get some refresh :
    https://anatomy4sculptors.com/products/anatomy-for-sculptors-understanding-the-figure
    From what i read on the net ('polysculpt" website from Thomas Roussel) it's a really good book for shape.

    Also i'm trying to do the samurai feudal contest that i see on artstation in order to boost my portfolio (which is empty like a seashell xD).


  • Biomag
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    Biomag sublime tool
    That book is amazing. I saw a bit of it and I will be getting it myself :)

    When it comes to challenges for portfolio purposes... I am not a fan of it. There are so many doing them, but actually only the top of the crop will be noticed. If your fundamentals aren't strong you are just rushing and building on top off mistakes and compromises. Make no false assumption that having a full portfolio gets you a job. It doesn't require that many pieces, but the competition comes with a high standard. Juniors have to be able to do the same quality of work as senior with minimal guidance. So focusing to learn and get the stuff right should be a much higher priority than exposure and quantity until you nail the quality level required. You don't want to end up being part of the noise of hundreds of beginners trying to make it. Good work gets noticed.
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