Home Technical Talk

Basic UV Unwrapping problems

polygon
Offline / Send Message
yukonwanderer polygon
Disclaimer - I'm a total noob. I tried my hand at unwrapping a silo sorta shape made with an extruded quadsphere.  Tried 2-3 different ways...none are really working. What am I doing wrong?  I basically made seams, selected the area up to the seams, pelted then relaxed.  See images below: 
Try 2: 

Replies

  • musashidan
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    musashidan high dynamic range
    Here's a request vid from my YT channel, I did a while back, with some tips and tricks:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pm3l4lRCKu0

  • yukonwanderer
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    yukonwanderer polygon
    @musashidan.   I can only laugh (craugh?) at my situation but I actually have moderate/severe hearing loss and it's pretty difficult for me to hear what you're saying a lot of the time, I rely on reading lips a lot in life, and the captions generated by youtube (which are usually kinda bad anyway - are even worse than normal for this video...the word "poop" has appeared a few times so far...)

    Anyway,  long story short, I'm going to soldier through that video but I'm definitely missing a lot of back explanation.  Do you have any quick tips you could write down for me?  If not I understand, these are really noob questions so far - thanks for responding at all!
  • ElleKitty
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    ElleKitty polycounter lvl 3
    You dont really need to do the split on the top side. Just outline the circumference of the top side and of the bottom side with seams, and unwrap that. I havent looked too much into the new Peel tools so I dont know if this was done by AutoPeel, but it looks like that's what happened here. Some manual placement may be due, I can imagine that automatic methods would get confused on models like this.

    Here is what I do to unwrap manually...
    1. Have an object that needs unwrapping
    2. Create seams, either with the simple seam tool or point-to-point (visible in both your screenshots the "Peel" rollout), until the model has been manually divided by the blue lines, creating separate islands. Map Seams are green, Pelt Seams are blue, you care for the blue ones here.
    3. Go to the polygon subobject mode if not already. Select a polygon in any island. Then click "Expand Polygon Selection to Seams". It's right there next to the seam tools.
    4. A whole island should be selected now, up to the blue border. Now click the "Pelt Map" button. It's right next to the "Expand" button too. This puts you into the UV editor.
    5. Here you can Pelt, or Relax, or both, or neither. Do which you like, but Relax (by polygon angles, there are settings there) does the trick for me majority of the time. Then Confirm.
    6. Do this for every island separately. In the case of your model, you need to do it three times. You can move the islands around how you like, or not at all.
    7. When all this is done, you can use some way to "Pack UVs". You basically let Max pack them as tightly and efficiently as it can manage, can also bring them all to scale.
    8. Profit! The advantage of this method is that it should work reliably for most-every model that you might have to UV, even the weirdly curved ones.

    I just went and created one "Oil Tank" primitive, it's in the Create tab, under Extended Primitives. I went to UV-edit it (Unwrap UVW modifier) and its default seams were exactly what I wanted to suggest to you, so try and create one and look at its seams in Unwrap UVW. The top and the bottom are fine with having triangles in them; triangles are only very problematic if the UV terminates directly upon them (look at the default UVs for a sphere primitive for an example of this). Dont need to Relax these circular islands, but if you do, some settings may cause them to spin out. The remaining island is the middle cylindrical one, which goes around the object. You can easily relax that. You can even divide it into more pieces instead of just one; you get more seams, but it might pack more efficiently, it's up to you to figure out when this would be a good idea.

    I hope this helps! If you feel like it, I'm curious to see how it worked out for you.
  • musashidan
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    musashidan high dynamic range
    @musashidan.   I can only laugh (craugh?) at my situation but I actually have moderate/severe hearing loss and it's pretty difficult for me to hear what you're saying a lot of the time, I rely on reading lips a lot in life, and the captions generated by youtube (which are usually kinda bad anyway - are even worse than normal for this video...the word "poop" has appeared a few times so far...)

    Anyway,  long story short, I'm going to soldier through that video but I'm definitely missing a lot of back explanation.  Do you have any quick tips you could write down for me?  If not I understand, these are really noob questions so far - thanks for responding at all!
    Sorry about that, but my Irish accent doesn't translate too well into YT captions. :) And yes, you will miss out on a lot in the vid because the explanations are imperative to picking anything up from the tutorial.

    Basically, unwrapping is all about understanding the trade-off between seam placement and distortion. And the ability to make logical choices based on the particular forms of the objects being unwrapped. There is a lot more flexibility in this trade-off if you intend to use 3D painting and/or tri-planar projection as your texturing method.

    But for the object in question I would planar map the dome shape and cylindrically map the remaining cylinder shape. Also, delete any unnecessary geometry that won't be seen. There may be some distortion on the dome shape which you can use the relax tools on to alleviate.

    Unfortunately, most learning resources these days are video as opposed to written.

    This is a very old thread but might help you grasp some of the basics:

    http://forums.cgsociety.org/showthread.php?t=7598
  • yukonwanderer
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    yukonwanderer polygon
    Thanks so much @ElleKitty , @JoshuaG , and @musashidan !  This looks much better - I was overthinking it.  See below - is this an acceptable level of distortion generally?  Also Josh, I split the long piece up so I could make better use of the texture space (circled in red) - is that a no-no?  I guess it will cause another seam depending on the texture huh? 

  • Eric Chadwick
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    The checker is not showing how much distortion there is. I recommend using a preview texture with a finer grid, and circles, and letters, and a fine per-pixel grid... for example:
    http://wiki.polycount.com/wiki/TextureCoordinates#UV_Map_Grids

    This is my current fav:

  • Synaesthesia
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    Synaesthesia polycounter
    Eric's suggestion for a UV checker is pretty solid. Anything with circles in it will help visualize distortion significantly better than a pure black/white checker will.

    Regarding your UVs, I helped write this UV overview on our site: http://quixel.se/tutorial/uv-mapping-for-the-suite/

    It might be worth a read if you're interested. I can help you out a bit more if you have any questions after reading. :)
  • yukonwanderer
    Options
    Offline / Send Message
    yukonwanderer polygon
    Thanks a bunch @Synaesthesia nice and basic which is exactly what I need at this point.  And thanks fur the map Eric. I'll download one of those once I get my full version of 3d max again.
Sign In or Register to comment.