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Best ways for creating Albedo Maps?

Hi everyone,

I would love to see a list with explanations about the best ways to create albedo maps (i.e. diffuse maps without any lighting informationen in them) from photographic textures. Here are the methods I'm aware of:

- use the new program Lightbrush
- use Crazybump's option to remove lighting
- use Bitmap2Material's option to remove lighting
- do it manually in Photoshop with the "Select Color Range" tool and then clone or paint away the lighting information. That however usually changes the underlying color, which, as I heard, is not the ideal way, right?

So how do you go about extracting a useful albedo map? If you do it manually, say in Photoshop, it would be great if you could elaborate a bit on how exactely you are doing it.

Looking forward to your guys' input! :-)

ConSeannery

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  • sargentcrunch
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    sargentcrunch polycounter lvl 10
  • ConSeannery
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    A cool way to remove some of the lighting information is to duplicate the texture, blur >average then desaturate the other copy, filter>other>high pass at around 100, then set the color to linear light at like 60% over top of it (or maybe you put the color under the high passed texture and set the texture to linear light 60&, cant remember right now)

    Obviously this isn't the only way, nor the best way, but for some things it works.

    Yeah, I remember that one. Good tip. Thanks, man.
  • ConSeannery
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    Or let's say we have this photographic texture here:

    http://www.cgtextures.com/texview.php?id=8431&PHPSESSID=a5dij4aulchfnrt7tpi6vc72l5

    Is there any conceivable way to equalize the lighting, by e.g. getting rid of the deep dark shadows in between the bricks?
    Or should this texture go into the trash bin?
  • Quack!
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    Quack! polycounter lvl 17
    Or let's say we have this photographic texture here:

    http://www.cgtextures.com/texview.php?id=8431&PHPSESSID=a5dij4aulchfnrt7tpi6vc72l5

    Is there any conceivable way to equalize the lighting, by e.g. getting rid of the deep dark shadows in between the bricks?
    Or should this texture go into the trash bin?

    Those crevices are so huge, that they would look like garbage unless you modeled those details in. So, that isn't a good candidate to make tileable.

    You COULD extract the bricks from the grout. Make your own tiling grout texture, then combine the two together smartly to get a decent result.

    Break the texture into it's elements, extract the details, and re-combine.
  • EarthQuake
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    Generally, I will start from a source that doesn't need a lot of work.

    If it has a lot of shape and depth information like above, generally I would model it out or something instead of photosourcing.
  • radiancef0rge
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    radiancef0rge ngon master
    EarthQuake wrote: »
    Generally, I will start from a source that doesn't need a lot of work.

    If it has a lot of shape and depth information like above, generally I would model it out or something instead of photosourcing.

    This, the current generation of texturing and shading in games really require a texture artist to be proficient in "modeling" their textures from scratch whether thats sculpting or 3d.

    Either that or use a scanner that neutralizes the light info and polarizes the source
  • sargentcrunch
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    sargentcrunch polycounter lvl 10
  • ConSeannery
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    Ok, the bricks probably derailed the thread a little and gave it a wrong direction. I admit they were a bad example.
    Would still be super helpful for a lot of people here if you guys could elaborate a little more on how exactely you get rid of lighting in textures. Do you prefer to do it manually in Photoshop? If so, how? Cloning and stamping?
  • CreativeSheep
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    CreativeSheep polycounter lvl 8
    A cool way to remove some of the lighting information is to duplicate the texture, blur >average then desaturate the other copy, filter>other>high pass at around 100, then set the color to linear light at like 60% over top of it (or maybe you put the color under the high passed texture and set the texture to linear light 60&, cant remember right now)

    Obviously this isn't the only way, nor the best way, but for some things it works.
    I tried this method, doesn't work as you mention ?
  • gnoop
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    gnoop sublime tool
    Using just photos is a dead end usually .  

    You can try  Alchemist/ Sampler AI tool to extract depth and de-light  but    in my experience  it rarely work nice.  Only for a few  specific subjects.     Anyway  it seems doing nothing you couldn't do in Photoshop with hipass and content aware fill  in regards of delighting.  

    Lightbrush seems dead and  anyway  works for rather  macro shading .

    Better chance when you can capture  color and depth info at the same time with photogrammetry and soft  like Reality Capture.
    When you have real depth info  you can  use AO render  to subtract it from color one  and use day light system in 3d package to match  CG shadows with ones in object textures  to get a mask for killing shadows too.     A compass giving you true North angle data  could help a lot when you takes pictures.    

    I saw youtube videos  where people use mirror ball  produced HDRI while capture photogrammetry   to get a perfectly matching sun position and ambient lighting to subtract shadows but I never tried it myself.  Too much of a hassle  imo.
     

    Agisoft delighter  could help too although  I still prefer manual way  with compas .  Gives you better control   while taking much more time and sometimes luck.

     But  the chances are it would work only for faces  . Same as their selecting AI  that provides  almost zero help when you need to select something in a texture.

    More chances it will work in Artomatix  https://artomatix.com/removing_light_from_a_photograph_or_scan/ 
    A company I work for had been subscribed to Artomatix for a year ( before this new feature) and it was never such a great easy thing their advertisement usually tells.    At least I tended  to use Photoshop content aware move tool  instead  for almost anything Artomatix  offered.      They had super easy "make it tile" although.       Still a good thing to keep an eye on . 






  • CreativeSheep
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    CreativeSheep polycounter lvl 8
    gnoop said:
    Using just photos is a dead end usually .  

    You can try  Alchemist/ Sampler AI tool to extract depth and de-light  but    in my experience  it rarely work nice.  Only for a few  specific subjects.     Anyway  it seems doing nothing you couldn't do in Photoshop with hipass and content aware fill  in regards of delighting.  

    Lightbrush seems dead and  anyway  works for rather  macro shading .

    Better chance when you can capture  color and depth info at the same time with photogrammetry and soft  like Reality Capture.
    When you have real depth info  you can  use AO render  to subtract it from color one  and use day light system in 3d package to match  CG shadows with ones in object textures  to get a mask for killing shadows too.     A compass giving you true North angle data  could help a lot when you takes pictures.    

    I saw youtube videos  where people use mirror ball  produced HDRI while capture photogrammetry   to get a perfectly matching sun position and ambient lighting to subtract shadows but I never tried it myself.  Too much of a hassle  imo.
     

    Agisoft delighter  could help too although  I still prefer manual way  with compas .  Gives you better control   while taking much more time and sometimes luck.

     But  the chances are it would work only for faces  . Same as their selecting AI  that provides  almost zero help when you need to select something in a texture.

    More chances it will work in Artomatix  https://artomatix.com/removing_light_from_a_photograph_or_scan/ 
    A company I work for had been subscribed to Artomatix for a year ( before this new feature) and it was never such a great easy thing their advertisement usually tells.    At least I tended  to use Photoshop content aware move tool  instead  for almost anything Artomatix  offered.      They had super easy "make it tile" although.       Still a good thing to keep an eye on . 






    Artoxmatix, does an excellent Job on removing shadows; I'd like to know, since you mention you were able to mimic that which what Artomatix does to remove shadows using Content aware fill, what your process was ?

    Although, what about highlights; this is the only other caveat ?
  • gnoop
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    gnoop sublime tool
    I happen to use Artomatix  before  they did this shadow removing node.   I couldn't say  how good it is.   but from what i see  in this page it looks rather like selecting  shadows and then play  content aware fill within selection .      You could perfectly recreate same process in Photoshop or Affinity Photo.    Artomatix looks like doing much better in this auto shadow selection although then Photoshop AI  .   Still it could be just  color range selection without any AI.

    I suspect it wouldn't work for big shadows covering a half of an image  or a whole side of your model.   But  again I haven't used this node so not sure.   

    As of highlights I know people use polarizing lens filters  when shoot for textures that kills most of highlights but I personally never tried it .  Usually highlights  are never such a big issue in subjects I am shooting.    And in case  they are,  usually it's easy  to hipass them off .

    I attached  a psd file I'v just done  in Photoshop out of curiosity using a  low res screenshot of same Artomatix image.   No manual  hand brushing involved at all.
    To get shadow selection I converted  original screen capture to CMYK at first  and it made almost perfect shadow mask  in K channel .      On actual hi res pictures the result  usually looks better.

  • CreativeSheep
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    CreativeSheep polycounter lvl 8
    gnoop said:
    I happen to use Artomatix  before  they did this shadow removing node.   I couldn't say  how good it is.   but from what i see  in this page it looks rather like selecting  shadows and then play  content aware fill within selection .      You could perfectly recreate same process in Photoshop or Affinity Photo.    Artomatix looks like doing much better in this auto shadow selection although then Photoshop AI  .   Still it could be just  color range selection without any AI.

    I suspect it wouldn't work for big shadows covering a half of an image  or a whole side of your model.   But  again I haven't used this node so not sure.   

    As of highlights I know people use polarizing lens filters  when shoot for textures that kills most of highlights but I personally never tried it .  Usually highlights  are never such a big issue in subjects I am shooting.    And in case  they are,  usually it's easy  to hipass them off .

    I attached  a psd file I'v just done  in Photoshop out of curiosity using a  low res screenshot of same Artomatix image.   No manual  hand brushing involved at all.
    To get shadow selection I converted  original screen capture to CMYK at first  and it made almost perfect shadow mask  in K channel .      On actual hi res pictures the result  usually looks better.

    I understand the removal of shadows, using color range and to some extent content aware fill.  What if your image is not from something you shot, rather you downloaded and you must remove the highlights ?

    I've attached my removal of not only shadows but highlights for this texture.



  • gnoop
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    gnoop sublime tool
    My antivirus says something malicious in your download page.   =)
        For highlights  try to use levels with luminosity  blending mode + a bit of "blend if" sliders to make the levels not working for darker under layer pixels,  

    for super strong  highlights you could also use same content aware fill technique, 

    if you have accurate depth .normal map  you could  make a mask based on certain normal vector direction the  highlights usually are associated with  . i.e certain normal color where highlights are stronger . Works better with directional light  ie.sun  and  long focus lenses   usually
  • CreativeSheep
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    CreativeSheep polycounter lvl 8
    Can you try to download the link again; the link is valid, and virus free. You just need to tell your anti-virus program to bypass any blocking which is being done for the site.  :)
  • CreativeSheep
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    CreativeSheep polycounter lvl 8


    This is my attempt, you can take a look at the PSD file which is a safe link how I removed the shadows and highlights.  Although what do you think of this attempt ?
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