Wait a few months, at least until the end of April if you are wanting to buy a 3d printer. They are making advances forward in 3d printing because it is at a very hobbyist level right now. You can't just click print and get a perfect character. You have to understand how the printer works and mess with settings. But plug and print printers may be coming soon, such as the Da Vinci printer. I am waiting for that one, or buying the Robo 3d for $800
Wait a few months, at least until the end of April if you are wanting to buy a 3d printer. They are making advances forward in 3d printing because it is at a very hobbyist level right now. You can't just click print and get a perfect character. You have to understand how the printer works and mess with settings. But plug and print printers may be coming soon, such as the Da Vinci printer. I am waiting for that one, or buying the Robo 3d for $800
I was looking at the Robo 3D printer and was going through it's guide and it was giving a list of what programs it uses but Zbrush didn't show. Do you know if it's possible if Zbrush works with Robo 3D?
I was looking at the Robo 3D printer and was going through it's guide and it was giving a list of what programs it uses but Zbrush didn't show. Do you know if it's possible if Zbrush works with Robo 3D?
There's almost always an intermediary program like Cura or Silc3r that you have to process an .stl file through. So Zbrush won't be talking directly to the printer, you'll output a model from Zbrush and process it with a slicing program to use with the printer.
There's almost always an intermediary program like Cura or Silc3r that you have to process an .stl file through. So Zbrush won't be talking directly to the printer, you'll output a model from Zbrush and process it with a slicing program to use with the printer.
I second this. You really won't be able to send a file directly to the printer from maya or zbrush or any software program. You will need to export from your software to a program like slic3r, where you have to basically set up settings for it to be printed at, and then print. So basically any software program will work I believe.
It's probably only a matter of time / standardisation though until you can go directly from 3d application to printer.
In my opinion we will probably always have the middleman of software to slice prints because this step is necessary for 3d printing to calibrate correctly.
I'm personally very keen on the Peachy Printer, and the potential it represents. Sadly, it is still in the development phase after its successful Kickstarter, so only the original backers have access to the beta hardware at the moment. By the end of the year, it might be possible to acquire a production model, though.
The Peachy is going to be very hobbyist-focused, and will require that kind of mindset. It isn't going to be the kind of product that you can just plug it in and go. But it is a big step forward for cheap, stable, affordable 3D printing. And the different kinds of plastic they are designing for it are going to open up some really interesting possibilities for the production of custom action figures.
What about colour ? Can I 3D print color the same way a normal printer prints ? Or do I have to hand paint?
Powder-based printers support color from texture files, but the machines and the printing materials are very expensive (the prints are also heavier and pretty fragile).
Plastic-based printers and materials are usually much much cheaper in comparison, but will only print using whatever color of filament you have loaded into it (you can get dual-extruders if you wan to use more than one color filament at a time, but even then you're left with simple solid colors).
ABS plastic can be handpainted. Make sure you have a good primer though, and plenty of paint.
Powder-based printers support color from texture files, but the machines and the printing materials are very expensive (the prints are also heavier and pretty fragile).
Plastic-based printers and materials are usually much much cheaper in comparison, but will only print using whatever color of filament you have loaded into it (you can get dual-extruders if you wan to use more than one color filament at a time, but even then you're left with simple solid colors).
ABS plastic can be handpainted. Make sure you have a good primer though, and plenty of paint.
Painting ABS or PLA is probably the most cost effective RIGHT NOW.
The lower end (Between $200 to high 2k) PLA/ABS printers are the cheapest home printers and print in the single filament or up to 3. The filament can be between $40-$150 per color spool and the printer companies, much like 2D ink cartridge printers, make their money back this way.
The form1 is coming out in june for low $3k and is a resin based printer, higher resolution and much finer detail micron layers. though the resin needs to be properly stored otherwise it may go bad in a month.
I used a ZCore paper printer once that uses sheets of paper and ink to print objects in layers. very solid almost fired clay result comes out. Those are expensive though
Shapeways or Sculpteo are good options if you want to pay for someone else to worry about it.
Replies
Modeling verification and set up a print isn't too bad from what I've heard, it's better than it use to be
I was looking at the Robo 3D printer and was going through it's guide and it was giving a list of what programs it uses but Zbrush didn't show. Do you know if it's possible if Zbrush works with Robo 3D?
There's almost always an intermediary program like Cura or Silc3r that you have to process an .stl file through. So Zbrush won't be talking directly to the printer, you'll output a model from Zbrush and process it with a slicing program to use with the printer.
I second this. You really won't be able to send a file directly to the printer from maya or zbrush or any software program. You will need to export from your software to a program like slic3r, where you have to basically set up settings for it to be printed at, and then print. So basically any software program will work I believe.
In my opinion we will probably always have the middleman of software to slice prints because this step is necessary for 3d printing to calibrate correctly.
The Peachy is going to be very hobbyist-focused, and will require that kind of mindset. It isn't going to be the kind of product that you can just plug it in and go. But it is a big step forward for cheap, stable, affordable 3D printing. And the different kinds of plastic they are designing for it are going to open up some really interesting possibilities for the production of custom action figures.
http://www.hackthings.com/stunning-example-of-3d-printing-in-full-color/
Plastic-based printers and materials are usually much much cheaper in comparison, but will only print using whatever color of filament you have loaded into it (you can get dual-extruders if you wan to use more than one color filament at a time, but even then you're left with simple solid colors).
ABS plastic can be handpainted. Make sure you have a good primer though, and plenty of paint.
Painting ABS or PLA is probably the most cost effective RIGHT NOW.
The lower end (Between $200 to high 2k) PLA/ABS printers are the cheapest home printers and print in the single filament or up to 3. The filament can be between $40-$150 per color spool and the printer companies, much like 2D ink cartridge printers, make their money back this way.
The form1 is coming out in june for low $3k and is a resin based printer, higher resolution and much finer detail micron layers. though the resin needs to be properly stored otherwise it may go bad in a month.
I used a ZCore paper printer once that uses sheets of paper and ink to print objects in layers. very solid almost fired clay result comes out. Those are expensive though
Shapeways or Sculpteo are good options if you want to pay for someone else to worry about it.