Runed axe [learning Zbrush]
polycounter lvl 10
Hi.
With my new PC on my desk and the new year in prospect I decided to start a little project of my own. I am gong to attempt to learn Zbrush and the tips/tricks thats invovled with the software.
Here's what i got so far. I will try to make my own concept and try to learn atleast the interface of zbrush by the end of my project. The max screengrab was just the blockout[not the lowpoly] and an exercise to learn smoothing groups and NURMS.
Tips and trick apreciated.
With my new PC on my desk and the new year in prospect I decided to start a little project of my own. I am gong to attempt to learn Zbrush and the tips/tricks thats invovled with the software.
Here's what i got so far. I will try to make my own concept and try to learn atleast the interface of zbrush by the end of my project. The max screengrab was just the blockout[not the lowpoly] and an exercise to learn smoothing groups and NURMS.
Tips and trick apreciated.
Replies
Just a couple of questions/tips, hope you don't mind:
1. Is that the base mesh that you exported to ZBrush? If so you really don't need to sub divided the mesh as much as you have, as long as the subdivisions are as equal as possible and it has no triangles you will be able to subdivide much easier within ZBrush.
Next time it might be worth importing each section of the model as its own subtool. This has some major benefits:
> You don't need to subdivide the entire mesh equally, each individual part should have equal subdivisions
> Each individual subtool has its own subdivision levels, meaning you should get better resolution across the entire mesh (and you will probably be less prone to crashing!)
> Much easier to work when you can hide large sections of the mesh in seconds
2. If you UV map your model before taking it into ZBrush you can actually use it to create masks in Photoshop and apply it to the exact position on the mesh in ZBrush. This is great for things like the runes you have put on the blade
3. Smaller details like the circular bolts might be easier and quicker to achieve directly in ZBrush
Hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask, you might remind me of another tip or trick to share! Good luck with that interface!
@PixelSuit Each part is a different sub tool, I just failed to show that in my screens. In the max screencap u can see the different colors.
I subdivided it to see how the mesh looks and to see if the polys are equal, I just used nurbs and rebuilt the subdivisions in Zbrush.
Il read up on that UVmapping and use it next time.
I guess today ill learn how to scale and stretch subtools in zbrush to make that handle look manlier.
Again thank you for za feedback:)
Changing the handle length and width definitely helped, but I think that if you added something to reinforce the transition from the block on top to the handle, it would look even better.
That part is the part that would take the most strain so if you added something like a metal band riveted to it, it would be really strong, and add some more interest to that part of the model.
Keep up the good work! I look forward to seeing this painted and such!
Colors are forguidance.