Runed axe [learning Zbrush]

Gnutmi

Hi.
With my new PC on my desk and the new year in prospect I decided to start a little project of my own. I am gong to attempt to learn Zbrush and the tips/tricks thats invovled with the software.
Here's what i got so far. I will try to make my own concept and try to learn atleast the interface of zbrush by the end of my project. The max screengrab was just the blockout[not the lowpoly] and an exercise to learn smoothing groups and NURMS.
Tips and trick apreciated.

Gnutmi

Getting used to the UI. some wear/tear and an attempt at the leather straps.

TheBeard

Great work! I really like the shape and Norse, Skyrim-esque feel of the axe. The handle is maybe a bit too thin. I you swing the axe hard enough it looks like it might accidently snap off. That thingy at the bottom could also be a little more interesting.

ASGUARDVIKING

It looks good i do agree that the handle it to thin and a little short. But keep it up.

Rogue One

Nice start. I would recommend changing you background canvas to something that's easier on the eyes. Try this download from the amazing Zbro http://www.mediafire.com/?a4v9g4u9a8hmhe9. Looking forward to seeing more

PixelSuit

Great start to your first ZBrush model mate, the interface is a steep learning curve coming from 3D programs but at some point it will just click and it is totally worth the time.

Just a couple of questions/tips, hope you don't mind:

1. Is that the base mesh that you exported to ZBrush? If so you really don't need to sub divided the mesh as much as you have, as long as the subdivisions are as equal as possible and it has no triangles you will be able to subdivide much easier within ZBrush.

Next time it might be worth importing each section of the model as its own subtool. This has some major benefits:

> You don't need to subdivide the entire mesh equally, each individual part should have equal subdivisions
> Each individual subtool has its own subdivision levels, meaning you should get better resolution across the entire mesh (and you will probably be less prone to crashing!)
> Much easier to work when you can hide large sections of the mesh in seconds

2. If you UV map your model before taking it into ZBrush you can actually use it to create masks in Photoshop and apply it to the exact position on the mesh in ZBrush. This is great for things like the runes you have put on the blade

3. Smaller details like the circular bolts might be easier and quicker to achieve directly in ZBrush

Hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask, you might remind me of another tip or trick to share! Good luck with that interface!

Rogue One

One point about the design. I would make the shaft much longer so it is easier to swing.

Gnutmi

Ty for the tips and tricks. Yes i totally agree that the handle is a bit short and skinny so ill try to fix it.

@PixelSuit Each part is a different sub tool, I just failed to show that in my screens. In the max screencap u can see the different colors.
I subdivided it to see how the mesh looks and to see if the polys are equal, I just used nurbs and rebuilt the subdivisions in Zbrush.
Il read up on that UVmapping and use it next time.

I guess today ill learn how to scale and stretch subtools in zbrush to make that handle look manlier.

Again thank you for za feedback:)

Gnutmi

Had some time today. Adjusted the handle a bit and had an attempt at the straps. alot more will be done in the weekend.

greyskill

This is looking really cool!
Changing the handle length and width definitely helped, but I think that if you added something to reinforce the transition from the block on top to the handle, it would look even better.

That part is the part that would take the most strain so if you added something like a metal band riveted to it, it would be really strong, and add some more interest to that part of the model.

Keep up the good work! I look forward to seeing this painted and such!

Gnutmi

Got my lowpoly [1.9k] and sorted my smoothinggroups. Baked out a quick normal.


Colors are forguidance.