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Orc Warrior

Hello everyone. This is my first submission at Polycount and I want to show you my Orc Warrior model.
9766 tris. Rendered in Marmoset. Textures are: diffuse, normal map, specular, bump.

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Visit my Portfolio: http://kostyasazonov.tumblr.com/


Have a good day!

Replies

  • Seirei
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    The feet and hands look like they're too small. Also I tink a wireframe would be nice to see too.
  • noliac1
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    I agree with Seirei about your feet and hands. Your hands also feel a little flat, so maybe put a little bend into the fingers. Also the fingers are looking a little too square, so more topology in them might be good. Lastly where the delts get pulled into the arm need to be more defined.
    Other than that I think it is looking good I am liking the accessories. and your textures coming along nicely.
  • kostyasazonov
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    Sorry for a long answer. Thanks for critic. Yep, topology is wrong, I'll work on it next time.
    Here I brought to you wireframe render. And because of you, guys, I found, that I'm occasionally forgot about 2 spheres for eyes, so I spent maybe 100 tris more, than I should :)

    wireframec.jpg
  • noliac1
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    The biggest thing in your topo that stands out is the junction between the shoulder and torso. Try to think of it as a cap, notice hot the pecks swoop into the shoulder

    tut_blendercookie_topology_review_shoulder.jpg?w=600
  • kostyasazonov
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    noliac1 wrote: »
    Try to think of it as a cap, notice hot the pecks swoop into the shoulder

    Thanks for advice. Just can't understand meaning of "pecks", could you explain please?
    Thanks for your time!
  • Rockley Bonner
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    Rockley Bonner polycounter lvl 12
    pectorals/chest muscles
  • kostyasazonov
  • Gav
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    Gav quad damage
    Cool stuff- Here are some things that stand out to me:

    Model

    -like mentioned before, your chest topology is all over the place. Like in the image above, I would run loops around the deltoids and under the pecs, with vertical loops capping the shoulder and running down the arm.

    -You could easily cut down your tris by making his skirt strips rather than a bunch of tiny cards. Your silhouette isn't benefiting from this nearly enough to make that cost worth it. You're also limiting what you can do by the card's shape.

    -You don't need to have the holes cut into your shoulder pad - much like the cards, the "low polyness" of it is actually probably hurting you more than it's helping you.

    -The eyeballs could be lower resolution and can actually be half spheres if they aren't already as no one will ever see the back of his eyes.

    -In general, this model isn't reading like a 10k tri character model. Personlly, I believe that you are devoting a lot of geo to areas no one will care about (eyes, panels, gear detailing, etc.) rather than to things that could enhace the character's silhouette. Right now, you have giant, polygonal spikes jutting out of the character that could really benefit from being smoother.

    -Your Orc has no wrists! The transition between forearm to hand is really flat. Try bulking up this area, making his hands bigger, respecting how the wrist bones would protrude outwards and - if you feel like it - dropping the hands out of a flat pose and more into a relaxed, "natural" pose will really make them read better.

    Textures

    -Everything is reading as if it is made of the same material. Give the materials some specularity differences: It's hard to tell if the gear is made of bone or metal. If it is metal, rather than painting in highlights, paint the diffuse black, give a high specular power and play with a specular colour (Metal is a highly reflective surface and generally is black, unless painted, the end result is the chemical makeup and how / what it is reflecting on it's surface.) Leather and skin should also have some amount of sheen - but be careful not to make it too glossy.

    - Your skin shading seems really baked in, and even slightly random. For example, on the face and hands you could get a little more fine tuned with the detailing rather than just a flat brown or green. In general, your character could benefit from different skin tones - showing where blood would be closer to the skin, maybe where he's had sun damage, scar tissue, etc.

    -If you could, grab some shots from Marmoset that shows "just" the different maps (diffuse, normal, spec) so we can better analyze what your maps are doing.

    -Personally, I would lose the eyebrows To me, they seem to make him look friendly as the expression seems very welcoming. If you removed them completely, it would add a creepier / more menacing feel.

    Cheers,
    Gav
  • Barbarian
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    Barbarian polycounter lvl 12
    Did you use Michael Pavlovich's eat3D character DVD as a guide? The concept looks similar (it's been awhile since I watched it). If you did, he covers Polypainting the skin and tweaking the texture in Photoshop (he unwrapped using HeadusUV). I'm not sure what techniques/software that you are using for your textures. There is a follow-up DVD (if you used the above-noted as a tutorial) that demonstrates retopologizing for a game mesh that does cover good topology for silhouette and animation.

    Good first showing--keep making it better!
  • kostyasazonov
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    Gav, thanks a lot for detail review!
    Barbarian, I haven't seen it, but I'll check this out - eat3D are great.

    I'm so happy for huge amount of responce and critics! It's so kind) I'll use this tread as a guide/help when I'll do next character. At the moment I want to try some mechanic and environment stuff.

    What do you think, guys, is the best way to learn, how to spent polygons? 'Cuz except video cources, I see only one way - to look other artists' portfolios.
  • Barbarian
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    Barbarian polycounter lvl 12
    Kosty:

    The follow-up DVD was "Low Res Character Production" by Adam Schuman (it uses Max and XNormal). The first DVD covered sculpting and texturing. You might get some of your questions answered by watching them.
  • Gav
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