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Workshop #05 - SsSandu_C

polycounter lvl 11
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SsSandu_C polycounter lvl 11
Hi! I'm trying to get better at modeling so I decided to give this workshop a try. So here's where I'm at with the model.

Download leica_m3_wip.obj



  • pables
    Looks like a nice start mate. I started mine last night, so I will also post some updates soon.
  • SsSandu_C
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    SsSandu_C polycounter lvl 11
    Thanks pables! :)

    As I worked more on model I noticed that the proportions were not true to the reference so I changed them. I think that it looks much better now and I am aware that some things need more work so I'm thinking about redoing them. The top part was kind of challenging but I managed to make it look good. There's still a lot to do. I will upload the model in .obj format as soon as I optimize it and get rid of that ghastly topology on the top piece.

  • pables
    Looking cool man.

    Edit because: I asked a question but I'm gonna try to find the answer by myself to push my modelling skills.
  • Pedro Amorim
    lovely modeling! keep it up!
  • SsSandu_C
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    SsSandu_C polycounter lvl 11
    pables - I'm glad you like it.

    Pedro Amorim - Thank you!

    I just finished the cap for the camera. I think it turned out quite well. :)

    Download leica_m3_cap.obj


  • Jungsik
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    Jungsik polycounter lvl 6
    Nice ^^ I wanna start mine as soon as possible! one more week and I'll be doing it!
  • EarthQuake
    Looking very nice overall. A few things:

    1. Watch your hard edges, some are verrrry hard, esp the small levers and such. My rule of thumb is pretty much: if its aliasing badly in the viewport at normal viewing distance, your edges are too hard.

    2. The knurling isn't quite the right shape, it shouild come to a definite point but instead flattens off into a diamond shape. This might help:

    3. Your floaters are all hard-edge right now. You need a border edge around them to make them look seamless when added on top. Right now they look like entire separate pieces. The obvious ones here: "Leica" on the cap, the viewfinder windows, etc. If you need I can give you some images here that explain this.

    4. Watch your intersections. Intersecting bits can be the thing that pushes a model from good to really great. As it is, the vulcanite(leather grip stuff) just intersects with the rest of the mesh(and the edges around the top part of the metal it intersects with are way super hard btw). You want the vulanite to border the metal, with geometry matching the shape, and nice little subtile soft edges there. It will give a very "solid" look, instead of the computery-random intersection look.

    5. The rounded area on removable baseplate(bottom) that comes up to latch onto the body isn't quite right, the shape is a bit sloppy and could use some more geometry to represent it better, check your reference here a little better. Again the vulcanite should match up to this shape as well, so there isnt the hard intersection.

    6. The black screws look to be sitting on top of the vulcanite, but really they're recessed into it. You can do this as a floating mesh, let me know if you're like an example image here.

    This may seem pretty anal, but these little tweaks will help a lot!
  • EarthQuake

    See #5

    You can see here the shape of the round "latching" piece and also that the baseplate doesn't intersect or cover the vulcanite, but rests right next to it, completely form fitting.
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