HK MP5k
polycounter lvl 15
Hi Guys,
Ive been a member here for a good while, but I just now finally decide to do my first low poly project. I am hoping to have the final shot of this weapon in UE3.
Here is what I have so far of the high poly
Thanks for looking
-B
Ive been a member here for a good while, but I just now finally decide to do my first low poly project. I am hoping to have the final shot of this weapon in UE3.
Here is what I have so far of the high poly
Thanks for looking
-B
Replies
Thanks for looking
-B
Detail looks good though. Like the ACOG. Check the scale on that against the rest of the gun - looks a bit too big.
mp5ers use special clamp mounts onto which you then can attach RIS parts like ACOG.
check this link, and even look up some ref as well as looking at this picture.
http://www.kingarms.com/productimages/ka-MB-10b.jpg
Looking great though, fix the scale of a few things, and your on your way.
aside from that, why puttin a 4x magnification scope onto such a short SMG.
youd be better off with a red dot or holo sight like an eotech.
btw. both adjustment knobs on the acog should be identical
Here is alink to the ref, im using
http://www.pixagogo.com/9767654102
here are the wires and Low poly
@GarageBay9, would you mind explaining a little more, I dont think I really get what your saying, and thanks for helping
@Rumkugel. honeslty man I just liked the way it looked is all, but if you think I should change it, then maybe I will and as far as the buttons are conceraned, here is an image of an acog, that I use, notice the top and bottom right are different
I hope I covered everything, and thanks so muich guys for the help
edit: Ive been thinking, maybe I should change the thread to modified MP5, just kidding
-B
Thanks
-B
I also scaled the handle and trigger area in a little to
The scale of everything on this is way off. Are you working on top of a reference plane or anything? The ACOG scope is too small, the vertical foregrip on the front the folding stock is too long, the magazine is a bit too large, the sling mount on the back is tiny, and the receiver is too long and lacking detail.
Here's a perfectly flat reference drawing that I cooked up using an online gun creator app. It's pretty accurate to the real thing as well. I suggest you use it. Just put it on a plane behind your gun, then scale everything to match.
Here's a shot of the common MP5 rail mount
http://www.tacticalgeardepot.com/images/MP5%20G3%20HK33%20Universal%20Upper%20Picatinny%20Mount.jpg
And here's photos of some of the problem areas
stock
foregrip
To answer your question about the choice of optics on the gun- the ACOG is modeled decently, but doesn't fit a small SMG like this. It's up to you, and if you like it, then keep it.
-B
-B
Polycounters, correct me if im wrong
http://wiki.polycount.net/Normal_Map
http://wiki.polycount.net/3D_Tutorials/Modeling_High-Low_Poly_Models_for_Next_Gen_Games
http://tech-artists.org/wiki/Beveling
always consult the polywiki for your troubles *worship* http://wiki.polycount.net
-B
I'm still in the process of unwrapping this, but I am having a problem getting all the uv space filled up. I could use some suggestions on how to better get this packed in here
Thanks
-B
Quoted in agreement
And your uv map looks confusing and great, as it should. looking forward to seeing this in unreal.
One trick i do for uvs is take 5-6 focal parts of your gun you know you cant squish in your UV space. and get their size propper. then i usualy uUV each piece into their own mini sqaure, then block them all on top of each other in the real 0-1. then take all the misc parts I have left over and grab them and hit 'layout'. gives you a decent organization(but wastes space) and just fit it. and just fit those last pieces in there. With props like guns, with up to 100 different parts, you can UV a million ways, just make sure the main areas you see have a consistent size 0-1 to keep a even resolution for your texture.
-B
theres good pics of real deal on the pixagogo site.
scope looks better in size now, acog on such a short smg doesnt make too much sense.
eventually you could fit a docter red dotsight instead of the backup ironsight on the acog.
the line of sight vs fireline would be ridiculous tho...
but anway.. thats just me.. keep up the modeling
Thanks Hal
And thanks for everyone for your replies so far
-B
Do you think its laid out ok, or do I need to unwrap it again?
-B
As far as crits on the layout, this is more general advice here, maybe you can apply it to the next mesh since this is pretty much all laid out now. But i would take a look at where you're placing your seams. ATM it seems you're choping stuff up a bit too much and this will hurt you when it comes to texturing.
A good example of this is the but stock, really for this section you should have only 2 pieces, the left and right side with the uv seams directly down the center. You could even keep the very top edges welded, and do this with just 1 uv island, that way you wont have a seam there on the top which might be visible in first person. What you have there now seems like 7 different sections, on what could be 1 or 2 at most. So you can see how this could turn into a nightmare when you get to texturing, as there are all of those seams to fix.
I'm sure there are a few more areas like that all around the mesh that you could find as well, but that was the most obvious one.
Also i wouldn't suggest authoring at 4096, as your PSD will quickly become unworkable with more than a few layers unless you have a supercomputer. I would author at 2048 and leave it like that! 2048 is pretty common for FPV weapons in games. No need to work at double res when the final res will be that high.
One final thing to note is that you should make sure you have uv seams where you plan on using hard edges(smoothing groups) to make sure your bake turns out ok, and you should also plan on adding some more geometry to fix smoothing errors and ray direction errors, so do some low quality(512 or so) testbakes before you move onto doing your final bakes.
Thanks again
-B
Thanks
-B
Seems strange but not totally unexpected.
and thanks Ott. Ill leave it as one group
-B
I also deleted the right side of the handle. I initially tried to weld the back seam of the handle together, but no matter how much relaxing i done to it, Max just didn't like it. So I figured if its not going to work there is no sense in having the other side there anyway.
Let me know if you think I should redo it again
Thanks
-B
-B
I see a considerable amount of UVs that look almost identical as well that should be overlapped. Especially when they are so small. Being worried about repetition being noticed on your model is a completely moot point when the pixel density is so small.
Your high poly is really dope - but the final result can be won or lost depending on how good your UVs and pixel resolution are.
About laying uvs on top of each other, wouldnt that destroy the AO Map or screw it up?
About the floaters, Should I just weld these pieces to thier parent, no matter, what if that stretches the checkerboard I have on there? Isnt stretching a big no no. Sorry for the dumb questions, just trying to understand it all.
Thanks again
-B
Not really that much of an issue. Some pieces are so tiny you'll barely notice the AO, so you can just not use any AO on them at all. In the case you get errors you can always manually paint on your AO to fix things, I pretty much allways do that.
Stretching: as long as it's controlled, it's okay. You need to know how and where it stretches, and figure if it'll benefit you or not. Sometimes you'll want stretching in one area, where it's not noticeable, to ensure there's no stretching in other areas, where it would be alot more noticeable.
-B