Hi, this is my first post here. I come from CGSociety (CGTalk) and felt I need more feedback from other people. Figured this board seems to be as much active as CGTalk
I'm going for a Battlefield 3 approach with the stock wrap, and a couple of attachments used on the M4A1 in BF3's
cover art. I'm also creating this model based on my own M16A4 airsoft rifle, which is COMPLETELY authentic in looks. Proportions and everything is exactly like the real steel. This makes everything so easy to model since I can just use a ruler to get the right proportions...
The front sight, flash hider are imported from my old
M4 model. They're just placeholders and will eventually be remodeled.
Critiques and comments are always welcome since I want to improve my modeling skills.
If you want any other angles, please let me know and I'll make a render of it!
Replies
But looking good so far. Not a fan of the stock wrap, I prefer the good old duct tape cheek riser, but I'd say also just be careful not to have too tight edges.
The overall length of the m16a4 is 39.63 inches (100.66 centimeters).
Also, a screen of the otherside of the rifle would be awesome.
The stock wrap. Sure, it may not be a big plus. But for the looks, I will keep it there. For a design choice, I'd rather have a sheet wrapped around than a black plastic stock. And as I said, I'm going for a Battlefield 3 direction. It's more art than reality
The gun is still a work in progress. I haven't modeled everything yet. The Delta ring (assuming that's what you mean with rail looking ring), hasn't been modeled yet, and neither am I done with the hand grip. It lacks the texture patterns etc.
Same goes for the stock pad. The lit/door is not modeled yet. Nor the screws above and beneath.
The barrel is 1:1. It's not too short, I promise. Maybe it's the angle that makes it look short.
See above for the stock wrap.
I haven't done the other side of the rifle yet, so it's just a mirror of the left side currently.
Thanks for the comments guys! I appreciate it
And it is supposed to be hollow.
Like this : http://www.vikingtactics.com/images/ar15-m4/vtac-erized_ar15m4.jpg
This is from my M4 at home, the receivers for the 16 and m4 are the exact same so this should help for the magazine.
Anyways, I have modeled the stock pad now. Only thing left is getting back that diamond texture on it. Will do it later today.
And by the way, does anyone know if there actually is a door cap on the real stock pad? I've been looking forever on Google, and I just can't find any info about it. I made it anyways though, but I will remove it if it's not there on the real one.
pretty clean modeling though, regardless.
Lol at Gucci render Just tell me if you need any special angles, and a screenshot of the view port.
Uhm, I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Baking as in texturing? Because I will texture it, but I don't really know what you mean with thin edges. Please enlighten me?
Anyways, here's a render with the displacement map on the stock pad, plus a sling mount ring:
Now it's time for all the attachments. Too bad the AN/PEQ-15 got as many details as the rifle, it seems. Hopefully it will be easier to make it anyways.
Since you're posting on a game-art forum, you'll get that comment a lot, but you might want to keep in mind that even for cinema, film, and other mediums, it's often wise to artificially soften the edges juts a tad more than is physically accurate, depending on how the asset is being used. If it's something that will never be seen terribly close, you actually lose the benefit of having visible bevels that catch highlights by keeping tight, razor-sharp edges.
What they mean about the tight edges, is if you bake the normal map, you want to make sure that you have a few pixels width on each edge so it can show correctly. I know since you haven't baked down a high resolution mesh yet, so this may not make much sense, but keep it in mind when you start learning that step. Bake one with softer edges on the really sharp parts, and see how it looks different. It'll makes sense then.
Keep it up!
Now I'm just rendering with Vray and using 3ds Max 2012
Yeah, I've heard from different people now that real sharp edges aren't necessary and can cause difficulty making the UVW mapping.
As I said above, I think I'm gonna have to make some changes to that now since so many people tell me now (not only on this forum).
And for the sake of argument, this is my airsoft rifle:
I haven't fixed all the edges yet (so they become smoother). Just a couple. But will do in due time!
Whole gun is basically finished. Just fine tuning the textures at the moment.
And a hi-res of camera08: http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/276/camera08.jpg
But the texture I think looks really muddy and lacking contrast, I don't know what you have done but it seems like clouds filter, the scratches looks blurry at some places and lacks the spec and depth that makes them look real.
I don't think you need that many shots of it either
Again good work on the high
High-poly, yeah. What I did was to paint it all in Mudbox. I went for a dirty and weary approach, since that resembles a soldier's use of their gun.
Polygoblin
Yeah... Unwrapping it was killing me, but it's well worth it! Doesn't take too long, but it's boring as hell.
Stromberg90
I can assure you it's not a cloud filter. But I do get your point. The dirt was painted with dirt brush in Mudbox. However, there might be some weird stuff going on in the specular/bump maps.
If I make such high details up close, surely I want you guys to see them, right?
Yury
See the message above for the textures. As for the AO/clay renders, I have rendered it with a simple white/grey material using an Studio HDR for Global Illumination.
JoshC
Yeah, the bump maps don't do their job that great up close. I'll see what I can do about that. I'm not so satisfied with it either to be honest. But still had to release the "final" work due to deadline.
The cutout on the bolt carrier group needs to be inset more.
This part on the lower receiver is shaped incorrectly.
(note: i'm using dropbox)
Other than that, nice modeling.