Mazda RX8
polycounter lvl 10
Hi!, this is my first time showing some work in a forum. I'm glad to share my mistakes and pay attention of your advices.
The mesh that im going to do is from an school assignment, it consists in making a functional and non destructed vehicle and once finished making the destroyed version. The assignment includes mesh and textures, difuse, normal and specular.
The mesh is unfinished so there are a lot of mistakes like unfinished loops and also the mesh is not correctly organized yet. I still don't know if is a good way of work making all the mesh and then organize it accurately or try to put every loop in the perfect position
Thank you for your attention and advices.
Some references of the vehicle
The blue prints:
Screenshots during the process:
The mesh that im going to do is from an school assignment, it consists in making a functional and non destructed vehicle and once finished making the destroyed version. The assignment includes mesh and textures, difuse, normal and specular.
The mesh is unfinished so there are a lot of mistakes like unfinished loops and also the mesh is not correctly organized yet. I still don't know if is a good way of work making all the mesh and then organize it accurately or try to put every loop in the perfect position
Thank you for your attention and advices.
Some references of the vehicle
The blue prints:
Screenshots during the process:
Replies
1: Anything that is one surface, is modeled as one surface. As you can see from the reference pics, both doors form (when closed) one smooth shape, that continues to the boot. You do this so that reflections look 1000% better on the final model because you'll have better edge flow and more accurate supporting loops.
2: Anything that isn't one surface gets disconnected. Right now you've got the mesh grill bits as part of the body. Break them off, keep them together and use a different material (one for mesh, etc).
3: Panel gaps, etc, come last. Just run an edge loop where you want the gap in your base mesh, then once you've smoothed, THEN cut it. It keeps the reflections continuous (as per point 1).
4: Fill ALL the gaps. Make sure there's no holes in the bodywork. If it's a pain in certain parts, put a black plane behind it or something, people will write it off as just a hole and forget about it, rather than a bloody hole.
5: Don't skimp on the details. There's trim around the windshield and windows, the wing mirrors, the diffuser, both bumpers, etc. Brakes need to be there, with calipers and (even just random, if need be) detail behind the wheels. Same goes for the headlight/taillight detail - they don't have to be 100% accurate, but having them believable helps sell it as more real and less sterile.
6: Be a man, model the interior. Solid black windows are for chumps.
Poly count and texture res (personally I'd go between rFactor and Race 07, and these are GENERAL values)
RFactor 15k poly, 1k exterior, 1k interior, 512 random bits + windshield
Race 07/etc 25-30k poly, 2048x1024 exterior, 1k interior, 512 random bits + windshoeld
F1 2011/2011 (PC) 30k poly, 1k exterior, 1k interior, 1k bits (actually, several smaller textures adding up to 1k)
NFS HP3, NFS Shift1/2 (PC) 25-55k poly exterior, 10k poly interior, 2k exterior, (bits amounting to a) 1k interior, 1k in other bits
UDK is fairly happy with higher poly counts - heck it'd have to be with the bloody 6k rocks. 25k polys should be easy for it. If that's all that's in the scene, go for 50k poly, 1k/1k/1k ext/int/bits textures. The trick with cars is the paint shader you use. Spend time on it, 99% of the time it's what lets people down.
there seems to be quite a few areas that have more polys than needed. things can get messy fast with too many polys. strip it back and line things up with the basic lines of the body. then add edge loops and details where it needs it.
Good luck
Edit - your overall shape is looking pretty good but there is a few lumps and bumps that will come out or easy to fix by reducing the polys
oh and your back wheel needs to go back a tad
Get the entire continuous body shell right first, then chamfer/cut in for panels/doors etc.
He's also right about modeling the interior
Oh, and for adding some more stats...
Project Gotham Racing 3 & 4 used ~80k total for cars.
~70k for bikes iirc, +10k for rider.
Looks like you're getting most of the panel shapes correct so far. Just take your time and make sure all the edgeloops are nice and smooth.
I'd redo the back wheel arch completely. Use a circle and have the polys all evenly distributed. Having the exterior shell in 1 piece all tidy will save you a world of pain later on. Definitely worth spending the time on.